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low break pedal, non-working parking break - self-adjusters not working?
Hi there,
This is about a Mazda 626 '91. What I realized recently is that the break pedal has to be pressed quite low to work. In addition, the parking break pretty much does not break at all anymore. All break pads were replaced about 20K ago, so they should not be that worn out. I recall now that the parking break effect declined continuously and did not experience much boost when the pads were replaced. I checked the break pedal behaviour, it is not really spongy, just low, and rather consistent at that. I tried to break few times while driving backward, that did not seem to affect the height of the pedal. My question is if all this is consistent with the self-adjusters stuck in some position. Now, is there any way to turn them manually without taking apart the drums, just the wheels? I read somewhere that there are screws one can turn from outside the drums, is that a viable option? Thanks! Mike |
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#2
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low break pedal, non-working parking break - self-adjusters not working?
> wrote in message oups.com... > Hi there, > > This is about a Mazda 626 '91. > > What I realized recently is that the break pedal has to be pressed > quite low to work. In addition, the parking break pretty much does not > break at all anymore. > > All break pads were replaced about 20K ago, so they should not be that > worn out. I recall now that the parking break effect declined > continuously and did not experience much boost when the pads were > replaced. > > I checked the break pedal behaviour, it is not really spongy, just > low, and rather consistent at that. > > I tried to break few times while driving backward, that did not seem > to affect the height of the pedal. > > My question is if all this is consistent with the self-adjusters stuck > in some position. Now, is there any way to turn them manually without > taking apart the drums, just the wheels? > > I read somewhere that there are screws one can turn from outside the > drums, is that a viable option? > > Thanks! > Mike Yes... you will need a screwdriver, or if you have the tool to adjust the rear brakes, use that, but a screwdriver will work just as well...you want to adjust the rear brakes so that there is a slight drag on the wheel as you turn the drum. If by chance you DON"T have access to this thru the back of the wheel (the backing plate), then chances are you will need to adjust the parking brake lever itself. To do this, you will need to take off the console cover that sits around the parking brake lever and in the back of that is the adjustment. All you need to do here is take up the slack in the cable by loosening one of the nuts and turning the other one so that the cable gets tighter, then once you have adjusted it properly, tighten the other nut so that they stay put. As far as the front brakes are concerned, you make no mention as to how good a pad you replaced them with, if it was you who did the work, if you turned the rotors at the same time, etc....if you replaced them with cheap pads, chances are they may need it again. it also depends on what type of driver you are. Do you hear a grinding noise when you press on the brake pedal? if so, then it is time to replace the pads once again. If not, then chances are they are worn, and then you will need to check to see how much brake fluid there is in the reservoir. I am willing to bet that the fluid is on the low side and just needs topping off. When the brakes wear, the piston inside the caliper moves out further which in turn makes more room for the brake fluid to take up. Once you replace the pads with new ones and have to push the piston back, you will find the master cylinder fluid holder will fill up with more fluid. Good Luck.. Fwed |
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low break pedal, non-working parking break - self-adjusters not working?
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low break pedal, non-working parking break - self-adjusters not working?
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#5
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low break pedal, non-working parking break - self-adjusters not working?
Thanks! This is all solid info!
So I gather that the rear brakes most likely can be adjusted, together with the parking brake. The front brakes, on the other hand, are not so simple. From what I know, there are leaks in both front calipers, since the fluid needs to be added from time to time. That could've worn out the pads sooner, although I do not hear any noises coming from them. I have no idea which ones were installed, and that happened in a different city :-( What I am still puzzled about is this. Can the added volume in caliper cylinders require the pedal to go this much lower? Or is there some other variable? Thanks! Mike fweddybear wrote: > > wrote in message > oups.com... > > Hi there, > > > > This is about a Mazda 626 '91. > > > > What I realized recently is that the break pedal has to be pressed > > quite low to work. In addition, the parking break pretty much does not > > break at all anymore. > > > > All break pads were replaced about 20K ago, so they should not be that > > worn out. I recall now that the parking break effect declined > > continuously and did not experience much boost when the pads were > > replaced. > > > > I checked the break pedal behaviour, it is not really spongy, just > > low, and rather consistent at that. > > > > I tried to break few times while driving backward, that did not seem > > to affect the height of the pedal. > > > > My question is if all this is consistent with the self-adjusters stuck > > in some position. Now, is there any way to turn them manually without > > taking apart the drums, just the wheels? > > > > I read somewhere that there are screws one can turn from outside the > > drums, is that a viable option? > > > > Thanks! > > Mike > > Yes... you will need a screwdriver, or if you have the tool to adjust > the rear brakes, use that, but a screwdriver will work just as well...you > want to adjust the rear brakes so that there is a slight drag on the wheel > as you turn the drum. If by chance you DON"T have access to this thru the > back of the wheel (the backing plate), then chances are you will need to > adjust the parking brake lever itself. To do this, you will need to take > off the console cover that sits around the parking brake lever and in the > back of that is the adjustment. All you need to do here is take up the > slack in the cable by loosening one of the nuts and turning the other one so > that the cable gets tighter, then once you have adjusted it properly, > tighten the other nut so that they stay put. > As far as the front brakes are concerned, you make no mention as to how > good a pad you replaced them with, if it was you who did the work, if you > turned the rotors at the same time, etc....if you replaced them with cheap > pads, chances are they may need it again. it also depends on what type of > driver you are. Do you hear a grinding noise when you press on the brake > pedal? if so, then it is time to replace the pads once again. If not, then > chances are they are worn, and then you will need to check to see how much > brake fluid there is in the reservoir. I am willing to bet that the fluid > is on the low side and just needs topping off. When the brakes wear, the > piston inside the caliper moves out further which in turn makes more room > for the brake fluid to take up. Once you replace the pads with new ones and > have to push the piston back, you will find the master cylinder fluid holder > will fill up with more fluid. > > Good Luck.. > > Fwed |
#7
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low break pedal, non-working parking break - self-adjusters not working?
since you are losing fluid, that will definitely cause the brake pedal to go
lower....in fact if enough fluid leaks out, your brake pedal can go to the floor causing it not to function.... I would check the bleeder valve on the caliper (both calipers) to make sure they are closed... it almost sounds like whoever did the job didn't tighten the bleeder valve very well after they bled the brakes... I would use serious caution while driving as you have a great chance of getting into an accident if it isn't fixed... Good Luck. Fwed > wrote in message oups.com... > Thanks! This is all solid info! > > So I gather that the rear brakes most likely can be adjusted, together > with the parking brake. > > The front brakes, on the other hand, are not so simple. From what I > know, there are leaks in both front calipers, since the fluid needs to > be added from time to time. That could've worn out the pads sooner, > although I do not hear any noises coming from them. I have no idea > which ones were installed, and that happened in a different city :-( > > What I am still puzzled about is this. Can the added volume in caliper > cylinders require the pedal to go this much lower? Or is there some > other variable? > > Thanks! > Mike > > > fweddybear wrote: >> > wrote in message >> oups.com... >> > Hi there, >> > >> > This is about a Mazda 626 '91. >> > >> > What I realized recently is that the break pedal has to be pressed >> > quite low to work. In addition, the parking break pretty much does not >> > break at all anymore. >> > >> > All break pads were replaced about 20K ago, so they should not be that >> > worn out. I recall now that the parking break effect declined >> > continuously and did not experience much boost when the pads were >> > replaced. >> > >> > I checked the break pedal behaviour, it is not really spongy, just >> > low, and rather consistent at that. >> > >> > I tried to break few times while driving backward, that did not seem >> > to affect the height of the pedal. >> > >> > My question is if all this is consistent with the self-adjusters stuck >> > in some position. Now, is there any way to turn them manually without >> > taking apart the drums, just the wheels? >> > >> > I read somewhere that there are screws one can turn from outside the >> > drums, is that a viable option? >> > >> > Thanks! >> > Mike >> >> Yes... you will need a screwdriver, or if you have the tool to adjust >> the rear brakes, use that, but a screwdriver will work just as well...you >> want to adjust the rear brakes so that there is a slight drag on the >> wheel >> as you turn the drum. If by chance you DON"T have access to this thru >> the >> back of the wheel (the backing plate), then chances are you will need to >> adjust the parking brake lever itself. To do this, you will need to take >> off the console cover that sits around the parking brake lever and in the >> back of that is the adjustment. All you need to do here is take up the >> slack in the cable by loosening one of the nuts and turning the other one >> so >> that the cable gets tighter, then once you have adjusted it properly, >> tighten the other nut so that they stay put. >> As far as the front brakes are concerned, you make no mention as to >> how >> good a pad you replaced them with, if it was you who did the work, if you >> turned the rotors at the same time, etc....if you replaced them with >> cheap >> pads, chances are they may need it again. it also depends on what type >> of >> driver you are. Do you hear a grinding noise when you press on the brake >> pedal? if so, then it is time to replace the pads once again. If not, >> then >> chances are they are worn, and then you will need to check to see how >> much >> brake fluid there is in the reservoir. I am willing to bet that the >> fluid >> is on the low side and just needs topping off. When the brakes wear, the >> piston inside the caliper moves out further which in turn makes more room >> for the brake fluid to take up. Once you replace the pads with new ones >> and >> have to push the piston back, you will find the master cylinder fluid >> holder >> will fill up with more fluid. >> >> Good Luck.. >> >> Fwed > |
#8
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low break pedal, non-working parking break - self-adjusters not working?
OK, I understand the concept of when there is no fluid, the brakes do
not work. But what is the mechanism for brakes to fail if there is enough fluid is in the system? Also, how does this affect the pedal height? If the leak is slow, it would act almost if there is no leak .... Thus if the system was to be simply sealed, the pedal would still be low ... The reservoir has to be refilled about every 10 months, that is when parking brake light goes on. The leak is rather slow and systematic. Thanks! Mike fweddybear wrote: > since you are losing fluid, that will definitely cause the brake pedal to go > lower....in fact if enough fluid leaks out, your brake pedal can go to the > floor causing it not to function.... I would check the bleeder valve on the > caliper (both calipers) to make sure they are closed... it almost sounds > like whoever did the job didn't tighten the bleeder valve very well after > they bled the brakes... > I would use serious caution while driving as you have a great chance of > getting into an accident if it isn't fixed... > > Good Luck. > > Fwed > > wrote in message > oups.com... > > Thanks! This is all solid info! > > > > So I gather that the rear brakes most likely can be adjusted, together > > with the parking brake. > > > > The front brakes, on the other hand, are not so simple. From what I > > know, there are leaks in both front calipers, since the fluid needs to > > be added from time to time. That could've worn out the pads sooner, > > although I do not hear any noises coming from them. I have no idea > > which ones were installed, and that happened in a different city :-( > > > > What I am still puzzled about is this. Can the added volume in caliper > > cylinders require the pedal to go this much lower? Or is there some > > other variable? > > > > Thanks! > > Mike > > > > > > fweddybear wrote: > >> > wrote in message > >> oups.com... > >> > Hi there, > >> > > >> > This is about a Mazda 626 '91. > >> > > >> > What I realized recently is that the break pedal has to be pressed > >> > quite low to work. In addition, the parking break pretty much does not > >> > break at all anymore. > >> > > >> > All break pads were replaced about 20K ago, so they should not be that > >> > worn out. I recall now that the parking break effect declined > >> > continuously and did not experience much boost when the pads were > >> > replaced. > >> > > >> > I checked the break pedal behaviour, it is not really spongy, just > >> > low, and rather consistent at that. > >> > > >> > I tried to break few times while driving backward, that did not seem > >> > to affect the height of the pedal. > >> > > >> > My question is if all this is consistent with the self-adjusters stuck > >> > in some position. Now, is there any way to turn them manually without > >> > taking apart the drums, just the wheels? > >> > > >> > I read somewhere that there are screws one can turn from outside the > >> > drums, is that a viable option? > >> > > >> > Thanks! > >> > Mike > >> > >> Yes... you will need a screwdriver, or if you have the tool to adjust > >> the rear brakes, use that, but a screwdriver will work just as well...you > >> want to adjust the rear brakes so that there is a slight drag on the > >> wheel > >> as you turn the drum. If by chance you DON"T have access to this thru > >> the > >> back of the wheel (the backing plate), then chances are you will need to > >> adjust the parking brake lever itself. To do this, you will need to take > >> off the console cover that sits around the parking brake lever and in the > >> back of that is the adjustment. All you need to do here is take up the > >> slack in the cable by loosening one of the nuts and turning the other one > >> so > >> that the cable gets tighter, then once you have adjusted it properly, > >> tighten the other nut so that they stay put. > >> As far as the front brakes are concerned, you make no mention as to > >> how > >> good a pad you replaced them with, if it was you who did the work, if you > >> turned the rotors at the same time, etc....if you replaced them with > >> cheap > >> pads, chances are they may need it again. it also depends on what type > >> of > >> driver you are. Do you hear a grinding noise when you press on the brake > >> pedal? if so, then it is time to replace the pads once again. If not, > >> then > >> chances are they are worn, and then you will need to check to see how > >> much > >> brake fluid there is in the reservoir. I am willing to bet that the > >> fluid > >> is on the low side and just needs topping off. When the brakes wear, the > >> piston inside the caliper moves out further which in turn makes more room > >> for the brake fluid to take up. Once you replace the pads with new ones > >> and > >> have to push the piston back, you will find the master cylinder fluid > >> holder > >> will fill up with more fluid. > >> > >> Good Luck.. > >> > >> Fwed > > |
#9
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low break pedal, non-working parking break - self-adjusters not working?
Thank you, Sir!
May I have another? Unfortunately, I did not get to go to all kinds of places like Oxfords and Cambridges, and thus may lack full scale training in *very* proper English! :-) Mike |
#10
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low break pedal, non-working parking break - self-adjusters notworking?
Slow leaks have a nasty tendency to become fast leaks at the worst time,
like in a panic stop. You have no emergency brake, that means you crash. An overextended wheel cylinder piston will leak slow for a while, then blow out fast. A rust hole in a line will leak slow for a while, then blow out fast. A bad seal on a wheel cylinder will leak slow, then blow out fast. A worn out back brake system will extend the piston for a leak and make the emergency brake not work and give you a low pedal.... Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Aug./05 http://www.imagestation.com/album/in...?id=2120343242 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) wrote: > > OK, I understand the concept of when there is no fluid, the brakes do > not work. But what is the mechanism for brakes to fail if there is > enough fluid is in the system? Also, how does this affect the pedal > height? If the leak is slow, it would act almost if there is no leak > ... Thus if the system was to be simply sealed, the pedal would still > be low ... > > The reservoir has to be refilled about every 10 months, that is when > parking brake light goes on. The leak is rather slow and systematic. > > Thanks! > Mike > > fweddybear wrote: > > since you are losing fluid, that will definitely cause the brake pedal to go > > lower....in fact if enough fluid leaks out, your brake pedal can go to the > > floor causing it not to function.... I would check the bleeder valve on the > > caliper (both calipers) to make sure they are closed... it almost sounds > > like whoever did the job didn't tighten the bleeder valve very well after > > they bled the brakes... > > I would use serious caution while driving as you have a great chance of > > getting into an accident if it isn't fixed... > > > > Good Luck. > > > > Fwed > > > wrote in message > > oups.com... > > > Thanks! This is all solid info! > > > > > > So I gather that the rear brakes most likely can be adjusted, together > > > with the parking brake. > > > > > > The front brakes, on the other hand, are not so simple. From what I > > > know, there are leaks in both front calipers, since the fluid needs to > > > be added from time to time. That could've worn out the pads sooner, > > > although I do not hear any noises coming from them. I have no idea > > > which ones were installed, and that happened in a different city :-( > > > > > > What I am still puzzled about is this. Can the added volume in caliper > > > cylinders require the pedal to go this much lower? Or is there some > > > other variable? > > > > > > Thanks! > > > Mike > > > > > > > > > fweddybear wrote: > > >> > wrote in message > > >> oups.com... > > >> > Hi there, > > >> > > > >> > This is about a Mazda 626 '91. > > >> > > > >> > What I realized recently is that the break pedal has to be pressed > > >> > quite low to work. In addition, the parking break pretty much does not > > >> > break at all anymore. > > >> > > > >> > All break pads were replaced about 20K ago, so they should not be that > > >> > worn out. I recall now that the parking break effect declined > > >> > continuously and did not experience much boost when the pads were > > >> > replaced. > > >> > > > >> > I checked the break pedal behaviour, it is not really spongy, just > > >> > low, and rather consistent at that. > > >> > > > >> > I tried to break few times while driving backward, that did not seem > > >> > to affect the height of the pedal. > > >> > > > >> > My question is if all this is consistent with the self-adjusters stuck > > >> > in some position. Now, is there any way to turn them manually without > > >> > taking apart the drums, just the wheels? > > >> > > > >> > I read somewhere that there are screws one can turn from outside the > > >> > drums, is that a viable option? > > >> > > > >> > Thanks! > > >> > Mike > > >> > > >> Yes... you will need a screwdriver, or if you have the tool to adjust > > >> the rear brakes, use that, but a screwdriver will work just as well...you > > >> want to adjust the rear brakes so that there is a slight drag on the > > >> wheel > > >> as you turn the drum. If by chance you DON"T have access to this thru > > >> the > > >> back of the wheel (the backing plate), then chances are you will need to > > >> adjust the parking brake lever itself. To do this, you will need to take > > >> off the console cover that sits around the parking brake lever and in the > > >> back of that is the adjustment. All you need to do here is take up the > > >> slack in the cable by loosening one of the nuts and turning the other one > > >> so > > >> that the cable gets tighter, then once you have adjusted it properly, > > >> tighten the other nut so that they stay put. > > >> As far as the front brakes are concerned, you make no mention as to > > >> how > > >> good a pad you replaced them with, if it was you who did the work, if you > > >> turned the rotors at the same time, etc....if you replaced them with > > >> cheap > > >> pads, chances are they may need it again. it also depends on what type > > >> of > > >> driver you are. Do you hear a grinding noise when you press on the brake > > >> pedal? if so, then it is time to replace the pads once again. If not, > > >> then > > >> chances are they are worn, and then you will need to check to see how > > >> much > > >> brake fluid there is in the reservoir. I am willing to bet that the > > >> fluid > > >> is on the low side and just needs topping off. When the brakes wear, the > > >> piston inside the caliper moves out further which in turn makes more room > > >> for the brake fluid to take up. Once you replace the pads with new ones > > >> and > > >> have to push the piston back, you will find the master cylinder fluid > > >> holder > > >> will fill up with more fluid. > > >> > > >> Good Luck.. > > >> > > >> Fwed > > > |
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