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Questions about DIY Driveshaft Removal/Installation '91 Civic
Hello,
I am going to replace both the driveshafts in my 1991 Civic Si with 133k miles. I am getting prepped for the job in terms of tools, parts, and knowledge and have come across a few things where I could use some advice and reassurance. I have done some googling of RAMH and have figured out a lot of basics and I have a Helm manual. I can get Cardone shafts for $67.00 a piece at a local shop and am planning on going with them. They seem like a reputable remanufacturer. I can also get Wolverine brand shafts ordered for $90 a piece. I bought a Craftsmen 5-ton puller, part # 46905 for the ball joints. I also bought a couple 12mm nuts and some grade 8 flat washers to protect the studs when I try to use the puller. I am going to put the washers between the 12mm nut and the stud where the sharp point from puller will apply pressure. Is that sharp point going to punch into the washer before the joint gives? I have seen the posts about hammer whacking and applying heat and will have those tools in my arsenal. I noticed a 2nd error in my helm manual. They say to use a 36mm or 1 7/16 in. socket for the spindle nuts but I figured out that they are actually 32mm (the other error I've noticed is a spec. for the Ig. coil). I noticed that one of the lower ball joint boots on my car has about a 1/2 inch tear. My Helm manual has a lower ball joint replacement procedure, but I am curious as to how hard it would be to put a new boot on. The manual makes it seem like special tools will come in handy, but may not be really necessary. I am thinking maybe I should let it slide and stuff some grease in, with the idea that I could replace the joint in the future if it goes bad. What kind of grease is suitable for ball joints? Are replacement ball joints expensive? Do boot kits come with new clips? This is where I am really wondering what the best strategy is. The engine and tranny seem really solid in this car and I'd like to take it to 200k. Much thanks for any help or advice, Mark |
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#2
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Chopface wrote:
> Hello, > > I am going to replace both the driveshafts in my 1991 Civic Si with 133k > miles. I am getting prepped for the job in terms of tools, parts, and > knowledge and have come across a few things where I could use some > advice and reassurance. I have done some googling of RAMH and have > figured out a lot of basics and I have a Helm manual. > > I can get Cardone shafts for $67.00 a piece at a local shop and am > planning on going with them. They seem like a reputable remanufacturer. > I can also get Wolverine brand shafts ordered for $90 a piece. > > I bought a Craftsmen 5-ton puller, part # 46905 for the ball joints. I > also bought a couple 12mm nuts and some grade 8 flat washers to protect > the studs when I try to use the puller. I am going to put the washers > between the 12mm nut and the stud where the sharp point from puller will > apply pressure. Is that sharp point going to punch into the washer > before the joint gives? I have seen the posts about hammer whacking and > applying heat and will have those tools in my arsenal. > > I noticed a 2nd error in my helm manual. They say to use a 36mm or 1 > 7/16 in. socket for the spindle nuts but I figured out that they are > actually 32mm (the other error I've noticed is a spec. for the Ig. coil). > > I noticed that one of the lower ball joint boots on my car has about a > 1/2 inch tear. My Helm manual has a lower ball joint replacement > procedure, but I am curious as to how hard it would be to put a new boot > on. The manual makes it seem like special tools will come in handy, but > may not be really necessary. I am thinking maybe I should let it slide > and stuff some grease in, with the idea that I could replace the joint > in the future if it goes bad. What kind of grease is suitable for ball > joints? Are replacement ball joints expensive? Do boot kits come with > new clips? This is where I am really wondering what the best strategy > is. The engine and tranny seem really solid in this car and I'd like to > take it to 200k. > > Much thanks for any help or advice, > > Mark ++++++++++++++++++++++++ I'm doing the shafts on a CRV in a few weeks, so I bought this cool ball joint / tie rod end separator, made by SPX / OTC http://www.toolsource.com/ost/produc...E7TBA2ECUJ9DC7 Good tools are expensive, but worth every penny. Don't use a 'pickle fork style. They are for destroying the grease boots on the joints. 'Curly' |
#3
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Chopface wrote:
> Hello, > > I am going to replace both the driveshafts in my 1991 Civic Si with 133k > miles. I am getting prepped for the job in terms of tools, parts, and > knowledge and have come across a few things where I could use some > advice and reassurance. I have done some googling of RAMH and have > figured out a lot of basics and I have a Helm manual. > > I can get Cardone shafts for $67.00 a piece at a local shop and am > planning on going with them. They seem like a reputable remanufacturer. > I can also get Wolverine brand shafts ordered for $90 a piece. i think gkn are often sold as honda replacement oem. > > I bought a Craftsmen 5-ton puller, part # 46905 for the ball joints. I > also bought a couple 12mm nuts and some grade 8 flat washers to protect > the studs when I try to use the puller. I am going to put the washers > between the 12mm nut and the stud where the sharp point from puller will > apply pressure. Is that sharp point going to punch into the washer > before the joint gives? I have seen the posts about hammer whacking and > applying heat and will have those tools in my arsenal. all this sounds expensive if it goes wrong - and that puller is going to be a real sob to not keep slipping off. by far the best investment you'll ever make in diy honda maint is the proper tool. get the one identified in the later helm manuals - much superior to the type shown in your edition. it looks like this: http://www.stahlwille.com/automotive_tools.htm fourth down. or get the stahlwille version. it's cheap compared to having a shop do it for you or the frustration of finding you need it later after the first tool doesn't work. > > I noticed a 2nd error in my helm manual. They say to use a 36mm or 1 > 7/16 in. socket for the spindle nuts but I figured out that they are > actually 32mm (the other error I've noticed is a spec. for the Ig. coil). yep, 32. > > I noticed that one of the lower ball joint boots on my car has about a > 1/2 inch tear. why not just replace the boot? $10. > My Helm manual has a lower ball joint replacement > procedure, but I am curious as to how hard it would be to put a new boot > on. The manual makes it seem like special tools will come in handy, but > may not be really necessary. I am thinking maybe I should let it slide > and stuff some grease in, with the idea that I could replace the joint > in the future if it goes bad. What kind of grease is suitable for ball > joints? moly > Are replacement ball joints expensive? $44 > Do boot kits come with > new clips? yes > This is where I am really wondering what the best strategy > is. The engine and tranny seem really solid in this car and I'd like to > take it to 200k. keep it running. i have an 89 and a 2000. the 89's much more comfortable and handles much better. bigger windows & better visibility too. > > Much thanks for any help or advice, > > Mark |
#4
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On Tue, 21 Sep 2004 22:35:46 -0500, Chopface
> wrote: >I bought a Craftsmen 5-ton puller, part # 46905 for the ball joints. I >also bought a couple 12mm nuts and some grade 8 flat washers to protect >the studs when I try to use the puller. I am going to put the washers >between the 12mm nut and the stud where the sharp point from puller will > apply pressure. Is that sharp point going to punch into the washer >before the joint gives? I didn't use any washers. Yes the point punches in, but that's necessary to keep it from slipping off. Using washers would defeat that. The only puller I could find didn't have that cone-shaped deal to keep the jaws from coming open. Since the ears on the lower arm casting aren't level, I had to keep the jaws of the puller closed with a large C clamp to prevent them slipping off. >I noticed a 2nd error in my helm manual. They say to use a 36mm or 1 >7/16 in. socket for the spindle nuts but I figured out that they are >actually 32mm (the other error I've noticed is a spec. for the Ig. coil). I used a 1 1/4 inch socket. I had a half-inch drive one in my toolbox but it couldn't hack it. I bought a 3/4 inch drive one to do the job and my 3/4 inch tommybar now has a kink in the end of it from being extended by a 2 foot length of pipe. You are also going to need some sort of oil squirt rig to refill the gearbox since the fill hole is way up under the floorboards. I bought a kid's super-soaker and extended the nozzle with a length of plastic tubing. |
#5
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John Ings > wrote:
> I used a 1 1/4 inch socket. I had a half-inch drive one in my toolbox You have: 32 mm You want: 1.2598425 inch Close enough ;-) > You are also going to need some sort of oil squirt rig to refill the > gearbox since the fill hole is way up under the floorboards. I bought > a kid's super-soaker and extended the nozzle with a length of plastic > tubing. What's wrong with the little pump sold by Valvoline that screws right onto the gear oil bottle? $3.99. Mine is probably 15 years old. http://makeashorterlink.com/?E2F445A59 I make sure the oil has either been sitting in hot water or in the sun for a while to make it easier to pump. -- --- Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA 38.8-122.5 |
#6
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jim beam wrote:
> Chopface wrote: > >> Hello, >> >> I am going to replace both the driveshafts in my 1991 Civic Si with >> 133k miles. I am getting prepped for the job in terms of tools, parts, >> and knowledge and have come across a few things where I could use some >> advice and reassurance. I have done some googling of RAMH and have >> figured out a lot of basics and I have a Helm manual. >> >> I can get Cardone shafts for $67.00 a piece at a local shop and am >> planning on going with them. They seem like a reputable >> remanufacturer. I can also get Wolverine brand shafts ordered for $90 >> a piece. > > > i think gkn are often sold as honda replacement oem. > >> >> I bought a Craftsmen 5-ton puller, part # 46905 for the ball joints. I >> also bought a couple 12mm nuts and some grade 8 flat washers to >> protect the studs when I try to use the puller. I am going to put the >> washers between the 12mm nut and the stud where the sharp point from >> puller will apply pressure. Is that sharp point going to punch into >> the washer before the joint gives? I have seen the posts about hammer >> whacking and applying heat and will have those tools in my arsenal. > > > all this sounds expensive if it goes wrong - and that puller is going to > be a real sob to not keep slipping off. by far the best investment > you'll ever make in diy honda maint is the proper tool. get the one > identified in the later helm manuals - much superior to the type shown > in your edition. it looks like this: > http://www.stahlwille.com/automotive_tools.htm > fourth down. or get the stahlwille version. it's cheap compared to > having a shop do it for you or the frustration of finding you need it > later after the first tool doesn't work. > >> >> I noticed a 2nd error in my helm manual. They say to use a 36mm or 1 >> 7/16 in. socket for the spindle nuts but I figured out that they are >> actually 32mm (the other error I've noticed is a spec. for the Ig. coil). > > > yep, 32. > >> >> I noticed that one of the lower ball joint boots on my car has about a >> 1/2 inch tear. > > > why not just replace the boot? $10. Is that a dealer only part? I checked my usual store and they only had universal boots without any fasteners. >> My Helm manual has a lower ball joint replacement procedure, but I am >> curious as to how hard it would be to put a new boot on. The manual >> makes it seem like special tools will come in handy, but may not be >> really necessary. I am thinking maybe I should let it slide and stuff >> some grease in, with the idea that I could replace the joint in the >> future if it goes bad. What kind of grease is suitable for ball joints? > > > moly Where can this be found? Some stores don't have a clue what I'm talking about. I do explain to them that its molybdenum disulfide, MoS2 >> Are replacement ball joints expensive? > > > $44 > >> Do boot kits come with new clips? > > > yes > > > This is where I am really wondering what the best strategy > >> is. The engine and tranny seem really solid in this car and I'd like >> to take it to 200k. > > > keep it running. i have an 89 and a 2000. the 89's much more > comfortable and handles much better. bigger windows & better visibility > too. > >> >> Much thanks for any help or advice, >> >> Mark I picked up the Cardone axles today and the splines and boots look really good. I guess I'll see how well the joints actually hold up. One thing that bothered me about them is that the rubber harmonic balancers are absent on the remanufactured axles. Some googling turned up that VW used balancers on some of their older cars and if you get VW parts for those cars they don't have the balancer anymore. There were also some antecdotal experiences of people cutting them off when they got loose and not noticeing ill effects. |
#8
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wrote:
> John Ings > wrote: > >>I used a 1 1/4 inch socket. I had a half-inch drive one in my toolbox > > > You have: 32 mm > You want: 1.2598425 inch > > Close enough ;-) > > >>You are also going to need some sort of oil squirt rig to refill the >>gearbox since the fill hole is way up under the floorboards. I bought >>a kid's super-soaker and extended the nozzle with a length of plastic >>tubing. > > > What's wrong with the little pump sold by Valvoline that screws right onto > the gear oil bottle? $3.99. Mine is probably 15 years old. > http://makeashorterlink.com/?E2F445A59 > > I make sure the oil has either been sitting in hot water or in the sun for > a while to make it easier to pump. > > > I actually just use a funnel jammed into some plastic tubing that is routed down through the engine compartment into the filler hole. It takes a while for the oil to move its way in, but it works for me. |
#9
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Chopface > wrote:
> I actually just use a funnel jammed into some plastic tubing that is > routed down through the engine compartment into the filler hole. It > takes a while for the oil to move its way in, but it works for me. I tried that once. A chunk of garden hose and a funnel. I didn't preheat the oil. It just sat there. I went inside, came back out, it was still sitting there. -- --- Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley (Lake County) CA USA 38.8-122.5 |
#10
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I was looking at the remanufactured shafts I picked up today and made a
worrysome discovery. The comparable ends of the left and right shafts inner/inner and outer/outer look similair at first, but I noticed some differences and wonder if this is normal. I guess I was expecting symmetry between the left and the right shaft when matching up the inner and outer joints. The differences (distances measured with a string): Outer Ends (wheel): The circumference of the largest diameter part of the end(the surface that the end of the boot is clipped to) is smaller on the left shaft(the longer one) than the right shaft(the shorter one). The circumference and length of the smallest diameter (with the splines) surfaces are the same. Inner Ends (tranny): The surface with the splines before it jumps to larger diameter of the left shaft is longer, lengthwise in the direction of the shaft, than the right shaft. The indented circle grooves on the big surface perpendicular (extending radially) to the lengthwise orientation of the shaft are different among the shafts. The circumference of the largest diameter part of the end is the same among the two shafts. Also, the raised and lowered uneveness on the largest diameter part of the end extends all the way out to where the shaft starts tapering on the left shaft. The uneveness on the right shaft ends before the tapering begins and you have a small section where it is a perfect circle. Is this a Honda design or did I get a mismatched set of shafts? I double checked the part #'s on the boxes and compared them to the application guide at http://www.cardone.com/English/club/...cat/sbyapp.asp Kind of confused, as you may be after trying to understand my description, Mark |
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