Faster engine warmup question. Help Please!

A few of the ac vw owners here that happen to be Puerto Rican,
recommend removing the big curved rear engine tine so that the engine
will heat up faster. By-the-way I'm not knocking Puerto Ricans.

I was thinking of trying it for the cold weather.

Then I would replace it in warm weather.

My concern is that carbon monoxide could easily get sucked up and
pushed into the cabin.

Thanks!
Any help is appreciated!

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 01:26:56 +0100, > wrote:

> A few of the ac vw owners here that happen to be Puerto Rican,
> recommend removing the big curved rear engine tine so that the engine
> will heat up faster. By-the-way I'm not knocking Puerto Ricans.
>
> I was thinking of trying it for the cold weather.
>
> Then I would replace it in warm weather.
>
> My concern is that carbon monoxide could easily get sucked up and
> pushed into the cabin.
>
> Thanks!
> Any help is appreciated!

A very bad piece of advice!

Make sure your thermostat and shutters/flaps are working properly, and
warm-up time will be normal.

The aircooled engine should not be let idling for long either(At startup
that is).
The best procedure is to let idle for 30-60 sec and then drive away at
lower revs until operating temp is reached.
This ensures the quickest warm-up with the least wear.

J.

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P.J.Berg wrote:
> On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 01:26:56 +0100, > wrote:
>
>> A few of the ac vw owners here that happen to be Puerto Rican,
>> recommend removing the big curved rear engine tine so that the engine
>> will heat up faster. By-the-way I'm not knocking Puerto Ricans.
>>
>> I was thinking of trying it for the cold weather.
>>
>> Then I would replace it in warm weather.
>>
>> My concern is that carbon monoxide could easily get sucked up and
>> pushed into the cabin.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Any help is appreciated!
>
> A very bad piece of advice!
>
> Make sure your thermostat and shutters/flaps are working properly, and
> warm-up time will be normal.
>
> The aircooled engine should not be let idling for long either(At startup
> that is).
> The best procedure is to let idle for 30-60 sec and then drive away at
> lower revs until operating temp is reached.
> This ensures the quickest warm-up with the least wear.
>
> J.

I agree, very bad idea!

You were right about the carbon monoxide, but that's not all.

The engine needs to take a certain amount of time to warm up.
There are different metals sandwiched together, and they all rely on
carefully controlled warmup. The parts need to warm up in a certain
order, and at a certain designed rate. Some parts need to warm up faster
than others, to keep the thermal expansion under control. ALL the parts
need to be in place and fully functional, for all of the system to warm
up RIGHT. You want it RIGHT, not too slow, not too fast. Otherwise you
will have all sorts of problems, like oil leaks, pulled or stripped head
studs, various nuts and bolts loosening up, more wear, less power, poor
driveability, and shorter lifespan.

> You were right about the carbon monoxide, but that's not all.
>
> The engine needs to take a certain amount of time to warm up.

But wouldn't the heated air entering the fan shroud simulate
Summertime conditions?

On Dec 19, 9:40 am, wrote:
> > You were right about the carbon monoxide, but that's not all.
>
> > The engine needs to take a certain amount of time to warm up.
>
> But wouldn't the heated air entering the fan shroud simulate
> Summertime conditions?

I am not going to remove the big curved tin cover.
On windy days, when I am stopped at a red light, sometimes a tail
wind pushes exhaust fumes through the deck lid louvres. The CO2 gets
sucked into the fan shroud and pushed into the cabin.
Maybe I should close the heater temp. lever when I am stopped or not
use the heater at all.
I am considering getting a CO2 meter from amazon.com to use inside
the car.

My engine doesn't have a thermostat or flaps. I live in So. Ca. and it
was about 38 degrees this morning. Today, I let it warm up for a few
minutes. Without the thermostat and flaps, how long should I let the
engine warm up? Especially when its real cold.

Eddie
-1965 Sedan





P.J.Berg wrote:
> On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 01:26:56 +0100, > wrote:
>
>> A few of the ac vw owners here that happen to be Puerto Rican,
>> recommend removing the big curved rear engine tine so that the engine
>> will heat up faster. By-the-way I'm not knocking Puerto Ricans.
>>
>> I was thinking of trying it for the cold weather.
>>
>> Then I would replace it in warm weather.
>>
>> My concern is that carbon monoxide could easily get sucked up and
>> pushed into the cabin.
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Any help is appreciated!
>
> A very bad piece of advice!
>
> Make sure your thermostat and shutters/flaps are working properly, and
> warm-up time will be normal.
>
> The aircooled engine should not be let idling for long either(At
> startup that is).
> The best procedure is to let idle for 30-60 sec and then drive away at
> lower revs until operating temp is reached.
> This ensures the quickest warm-up with the least wear.
>
> J.
>

> ... recommend removing the big curved rear engine tine so that the engine
> will heat up faster.

How about using a smaller diameter than stock 'power pulley'
in cold weather for short 5 mile trips?
But once in a while we have a warm day during Winter. I probably
would not want to get out and change the pulley back to the stock
size.

"Eddie" > wrote in message
...
> My engine doesn't have a thermostat or flaps. I live in So. Ca. and it was
> about 38 degrees this morning. Today, I let it warm up for a few minutes.
> Without the thermostat and flaps, how long should I let the engine warm
> up? Especially when its real cold.
>
> Eddie
> -1965 Sedan

without thermostat and air control vanes you have full cooling from the
minute the engine starts... engines are slow to warm up when idleing and
even worse when there is nothing to control the cooling air... the best
thing for an engine is to start it up, waiting only long enough to buckle up
and check mirror adjustment, then drive off... that's even more important
without the thermostat and control vanes... when cold out, you may never
actually reach operating temperatures if driving around town..

On Fri, 19 Dec 2008 08:51:45 -0800, Jim347a wrote:

>> ... recommend removing the big curved rear engine tine so that the
>> engine will heat up faster.
>
> How about using a smaller diameter than stock 'power pulley' in cold
> weather for short 5 mile trips?
> But once in a while we have a warm day during Winter. I probably
> would not want to get out and change the pulley back to the stock size.

How about a Hat Gloves and thick socks :P

I guess because its "So Ca", dumb ass people think you don't need a
thermostat and air control.
I completely understand about the heating and cooling, even in Ca. I
plan on correcting this in the future.

Eddie




Joey Tribiani wrote:
> "Eddie" > wrote in message
> ...
>
>> My engine doesn't have a thermostat or flaps. I live in So. Ca. and it was
>> about 38 degrees this morning. Today, I let it warm up for a few minutes.
>> Without the thermostat and flaps, how long should I let the engine warm
>> up? Especially when its real cold.
>>
>> Eddie
>> -1965 Sedan
>>
>
> without thermostat and air control vanes you have full cooling from the
> minute the engine starts... engines are slow to warm up when idleing and
> even worse when there is nothing to control the cooling air... the best
> thing for an engine is to start it up, waiting only long enough to buckle up
> and check mirror adjustment, then drive off... that's even more important
> without the thermostat and control vanes... when cold out, you may never
> actually reach operating temperatures if driving around town..
>
>
>