289 rebuild - pushrods sizes

I am building a 289 from a virgin block that has been bored .030
over and piston matched from machine shop ect.
When I started I had two complete motors to choose my rebuild from old
mustangs, 289 and 302 complete motors. The 302 had already been
boared .060 so I went with the virgin 289.
I decided to use the 302 (D0OE) heads that came off the 302. I noticed
the pushrods from each motor I tore down were different lengths (not
much). The longer ones seem to come out of the 302 that had these 302
heads on them. Which push rods do I use? How can I measure and be sure
I'm using the right pushrods for this motor? I assume these pushrods
are 6.905" and 6.805" length.
I read somewhere to use 6.905" for the 289/302 with 302/351heads, how
can I be sure?

-Mike.

Also I am using a high energy comp cam, FR4 Edelbrock intake,
headers, EFI Dist

pushrods:
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...z/DSC08140.jpg
head pictu
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...z/DSC08100.jpg
Block: 64' 289 bored .030 over
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...DSC08102-1.jpg
cam: 262 in 270 ex
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...3_comp_cam.jpg
pistons: speed pro .030 over
http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...z/DSC08115.jpg

wrote:
> I am building a 289 from a virgin block that has been bored .030
> over and piston matched from machine shop ect.
> When I started I had two complete motors to choose my rebuild from old
> mustangs, 289 and 302 complete motors. The 302 had already been
> boared .060 so I went with the virgin 289.
> I decided to use the 302 (D0OE) heads that came off the 302. I noticed
> the pushrods from each motor I tore down were different lengths (not
> much). The longer ones seem to come out of the 302 that had these 302
> heads on them. Which push rods do I use? How can I measure and be sure
> I'm using the right pushrods for this motor? I assume these pushrods
> are 6.905" and 6.805" length.
> I read somewhere to use 6.905" for the 289/302 with 302/351heads, how
> can I be sure?


You have to measure them for correct fit and valve
geometry. To do that, you need some light weight
checking valve springs.
Replace two valve springs with the checking
springs. Drop the head on the block, with a gasket.
Install two lifters, two pushrods and two rocker arms.
Turn the engine over a few times.
Watch the rocker arm tip as the engine rotates.
Ideally, you want the tip to be centered on the valve
stem at half lift.
You have to use the checking springs because the
hydraulic lifter will compress under load, and it won't
be accurate.

You also need to clay the pistons to check for
valve/piston clearance. I would do that before
checking push rod length.

--
..boB
2006 FXDI hot rod
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.

On Apr 10, 9:27 am, ".boB" > wrote:
> wrote:
> > I am building a 289 from a virgin block that has been bored .030
> > over and piston matched from machine shop ect.
> > When I started I had two complete motors to choose myrebuildfrom old
> > mustangs, 289 and 302 complete motors. The 302 had already been
> > boared .060 so I went with the virgin 289.
> > I decided to use the 302 (D0OE) heads that came off the 302. I noticed
> > thepushrodsfrom each motor I tore down were different lengths (not
> > much). The longer ones seem to come out of the 302 that had these 302
> > heads on them. Which push rods do I use? How can I measure and be sure
> > I'm using the rightpushrodsfor this motor? I assume thesepushrods
> > are 6.905" and 6.805" length.
> > I read somewhere to use 6.905" for the 289/302 with 302/351heads, how
> > can I be sure?
>
> You have to measure them for correct fit and valve
> geometry. To do that, you need some light weight
> checking valve springs.
> Replace two valve springs with the checking
> springs. Drop the head on the block, with a gasket.
> Install two lifters, twopushrodsand two rocker arms.
> Turn the engine over a few times.
> Watch the rocker arm tip as the engine rotates.
> Ideally, you want the tip to be centered on the valve
> stem at half lift.
> You have to use the checking springs because the
> hydraulic lifter will compress under load, and it won't
> be accurate.
>
> You also need to clay the pistons to check for
> valve/piston clearance. I would do that before
> checking push rod length.
>
> --
> .boB
> 2006 FXDI hot rod
> 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
> 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
> 1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.

Thanks for the comments. I'm using 289 block/crank with the D0OE
heads. I need to figure out the compression ratio. I did research on
the D0OE heads and mine have 69 302 D0OE on them (see pic from
previous e-mail), but everywhere I research the "D0OE" heads are
always referred as 351 heads its hard to find specs.Here a link for
that data. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...adcastings.jpg
Know much about this?
thanks
..Mike