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CRX code 16 + 2000rpm test + lurching @ 3000rpm+



 
 
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  #1  
Old December 19th 10, 08:56 AM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
Meatman
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Posts: 30
Default CRX code 16 + 2000rpm test + lurching @ 3000rpm+

1988 CRX DX. DPFI. All stock. Cold as hell out now to troubleshoot,
so throw these symptoms together, stir 'em up, and gimme a gut feeling
of their interrelatedness and where to start looking first. Have
HELMS manual, will travel! Thanks, dudes!
-
-Notably on cold start it throws FLASH CODE 16 - low/improper FI
voltage. Will reset and disappear on later starts. Might reappear.
-Per something I've seen mentioned in several places (here and in the
manual)...at operating temp and in N, car will not hold steady 2000rpm
for 1 minute without racing at some point.
-Approaching 3500rpm under heavy accel car suddenly lurches like a
beast. As if it were either intermittently starved for fuel OR if
ignition were cutting in and out. Hard, fast, and erratic lurch and
jerk.
---Thoughts? Kevin.
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  #2  
Old December 19th 10, 08:02 PM posted to rec.autos.makers.honda
jim beam[_4_]
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Posts: 3,204
Default CRX code 16 + 2000rpm test + lurching @ 3000rpm+

On 12/18/2010 11:56 PM, Meatman wrote:
> 1988 CRX DX. DPFI. All stock. Cold as hell out now to troubleshoot,
> so throw these symptoms together, stir 'em up, and gimme a gut feeling
> of their interrelatedness and where to start looking first. Have
> HELMS manual, will travel! Thanks, dudes!
> -
> -Notably on cold start it throws FLASH CODE 16 - low/improper FI
> voltage. Will reset and disappear on later starts. Might reappear.
> -Per something I've seen mentioned in several places (here and in the
> manual)...at operating temp and in N, car will not hold steady 2000rpm
> for 1 minute without racing at some point.
> -Approaching 3500rpm under heavy accel car suddenly lurches like a
> beast. As if it were either intermittently starved for fuel OR if
> ignition were cutting in and out. Hard, fast, and erratic lurch and
> jerk.
> ---Thoughts? Kevin.


code 16 is almost always caused by a fault with the main relay. once
the car starts, it'll usually run without further problems until the
next time you try to start it. but i think that's a side issue, and not
causing your other problems.

for the rest, make sure all your connectors are good, including throttle
position sensor, idle control valve, injectors, etc., and most
important, your ignition.

for ignition, when were the distributor cap, rotor and plug leads last
replaced? were they replaced with sweaty fingers? i ask because sweat
contains salt, and in cold/damp weather, moisture condenses on that and
can cause the spark to track to ground with the symptoms you describe.

i've also seen problems caused by a faulty tandem control valve hose,
and even an incorrectly routed throttle cable [has to go under the
throttle opener valve rod, not over as sometimes seems to be done].


check out tegger.com for the how-to's on the main relay, and get back to
us on the other stuff. that's a great little car, and a lot of fun to
drive. if you want a bolt-on performance improvement for about $30, you
can get a cam from a d15b7 92-95 civic that's nearly as good as the si
cam, without the re-timing problems. if you want to go the whole way,
you can get a cam from a jdm zc motor, fit an adjustable timing gear
advanced by 5.5° and you'll have even more cheap fun. good luck.


--
nomina rutrum rutrum
  #5  
Old December 20th 10, 12:42 PM
Gabrial Gabrial is offline
Junior Member
 
First recorded activity by AutoBanter: Dec 2010
Posts: 3
Default

[quote='Tegger[_3_];1156908']Meatman > wrote in news:658c7d87-6245-4c70-9a99-
:

> 1988 CRX DX. DPFI. All stock. Cold as hell out now to troubleshoot,
> so throw these symptoms together, stir 'em up, and gimme a gut feeling
> of their interrelatedness and where to start looking first. Have
> HELMS manual, will travel! Thanks, dudes!
> -
> -Notably on cold start it throws FLASH CODE 16 - low/improper FI
> voltage. Will reset and disappear on later starts. Might reappear.
> -Per something I've seen mentioned in several places (here and in the
> manual)...at operating temp and in N, car will not hold steady 2000rpm
> for 1 minute without racing at some point.
> -Approaching 3500rpm under heavy accel car suddenly lurches like a
> beast. As if it were either intermittently starved for fuel OR if
> ignition were cutting in and out. Hard, fast, and erratic lurch and
> jerk.
> ---Thoughts? Kevin.


Hello,
i've also seen problems caused by a faulty tandem control valve hose,
and even an incorrectly routed throttle cable [has to go under the
throttle opener valve rod, not over as sometimes seems to be done....
I hope it is enough for a good post...

discount tire bloomington mn

Last edited by Gabrial : December 27th 10 at 06:06 AM.
 




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