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#11
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Plugs and wipers
P.J.Berg wrote:
> > Another aspect of this is the fact that the valve clearance is given at > TDC, which is not the optimal setting. > The clearance stated is the minimal. So what you want to do is turn the > engine over slightly back and forth with your feeler gauge in there > until you find the biggest clearance/slack. And THAT is where you adjust > to .10 or .15 > > Repeat this for all eight valves and you'll know you have done the right > thing even if it took you an hour or two. > > This is not a witch tale, pure physics, test drive and you will notice. Ok. I will verify the adjustment procedure by you, that I am using. 1) turn engine in cylinder no 1 TDC (crank pulley mark up and lining with the case seam). 2) check cylinder no 1 both valves and cyl no 2 intake valve 3) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 3 TDC 4) check cylinder no 2 intake valve 5) move to the other side and check cylinder 3 both valves and cylinder 4 intake valve 6) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 1 TDC 7) check cylinder 4 exhaust valve 8) done Or am I assuming wrong about the valve timings of cylinders 2 and 4 in cyl 1 and 3 TDC position? Initially I did this assumption because it is easier to have the crank exactly at TDC position when the mark is upwards. Cylinder 2 and 4 TDCs are harder to find exactly. Your description made me think if it really matters at all to be exactly at TDC and whether the cyl 2 and 4 valves are really fully closed in cyl 1 and 3 TDC positions. --- Olli |
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#12
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Plugs and wipers
On Thu, 05 Aug 2010 23:05:12 +0200, Olli Lammi
> wrote: > P.J.Berg wrote: >> >> Another aspect of this is the fact that the valve clearance is given at >> TDC, which is not the optimal setting. >> The clearance stated is the minimal. So what you want to do is turn the >> engine over slightly back and forth with your feeler gauge in there >> until you find the biggest clearance/slack. And THAT is where you >> adjust to .10 or .15 >> Repeat this for all eight valves and you'll know you have done the >> right thing even if it took you an hour or two. >> This is not a witch tale, pure physics, test drive and you will notice. > > Ok. I will verify the adjustment procedure by you, that I am using. > > 1) turn engine in cylinder no 1 TDC (crank pulley mark up and lining > with the case seam). > > 2) check cylinder no 1 both valves and cyl no 2 intake valve > > 3) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 3 TDC > > 4) check cylinder no 2 intake valve > > 5) move to the other side and check cylinder 3 both valves and > cylinder 4 intake valve > > 6) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 1 TDC > > 7) check cylinder 4 exhaust valve > > 8) done > > Or am I assuming wrong about the valve timings of cylinders 2 and 4 > in cyl 1 and 3 TDC position? Initially I did this assumption because > it is easier to have the crank exactly at TDC position when the mark > is upwards. Cylinder 2 and 4 TDCs are harder to find exactly. Your > description made me think if it really matters at all to be exactly > at TDC and whether the cyl 2 and 4 valves are really fully closed in > cyl 1 and 3 TDC positions. > > --- > Olli Sorry Olli, a cousin of mine is getting married on Saturday so we have been out drinking today. Brain is on standby mode and not much more tonight. Jørn -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ |
#13
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Plugs and wipers
On 04/08/10 07:48, Jan Andersson wrote:
> Olli Lammi wrote: >> Hello! --snippp-- >> 2) The wind screen wipers (-73 model standard beetle) have lost >> the "fast" option. Both on-positions in the switch move the >> vipers in "slow" speed. The wiring diagram does not reveal >> to me, how actually the speed is controlled. Should I aim >> at the viper switch in the steering column, wiring or >> the motor itself to find the problem? Any suggestions? >> >> --- >> Olli > > > lube the shafts that go through the body. friction (corrosion and dirt) may > be slowing them down. Definitely. My Ghia got so bad the wipers didn't move at all last spring, not even without wiper arms or blades. Other shaft thoroughly rusty and the other wasn't much better, I had to heat those shafts to almost red hot to get them out of their holes. Some sanding and water-resistant grease later wipers work like a charm. |
#14
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Plugs and wipers
P.J.Berg wrote:
>> >> Ok. I will verify the adjustment procedure by you, that I am using. >> >> 1) turn engine in cylinder no 1 TDC (crank pulley mark up and lining >> with the case seam). >> >> 2) check cylinder no 1 both valves and cyl no 2 intake valve >> >> 3) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 3 TDC >> >> 4) check cylinder no 2 intake valve Correction: no 2 exhaust valve >> 5) move to the other side and check cylinder 3 both valves and >> cylinder 4 intake valve >> >> 6) turn engine 360 degrees to cylinder no 1 TDC >> >> 7) check cylinder 4 exhaust valve >> >> 8) done >> >> Or am I assuming wrong about the valve timings of cylinders 2 and 4 >> in cyl 1 and 3 TDC position? Initially I did this assumption because >> it is easier to have the crank exactly at TDC position when the mark >> is upwards. Cylinder 2 and 4 TDCs are harder to find exactly. Your >> description made me think if it really matters at all to be exactly >> at TDC and whether the cyl 2 and 4 valves are really fully closed in >> cyl 1 and 3 TDC positions. >> >> --- >> Olli > > Sorry Olli, a cousin of mine is getting married on Saturday so we have > been out drinking today. Brain is on standby mode and not much more > tonight. Ooops. The procedure I wrote had a typo. Correction above (phase 4). --- Olli |
#15
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Plugs and wipers
Re the .10 in and .15 out. I,ve usually set my valve clearances down to 8
thou with engine dead cold. Too tight you think?. I seem to recall somewhere that VW dropped it down to 6 thou. Could be wrong ( happens a lot my wife says) John |
#16
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Plugs and wipers
John wrote:
> Re the .10 in and .15 out. I,ve usually set my valve clearances down to 8 > thou with engine dead cold. Too tight you think?. I seem to recall > somewhere that VW dropped it down to 6 thou. Could be wrong ( happens a lot > my wife says) > John > > > in the days of 1200 the recommendation was 0.10mm but since people were too lazy to adjust the valves when recommended, the factory changed the spec to 0.15 to make sure the clearance would always be adequate even with sporadic or no maintenance. For the same reason they also eliminated the oil drain plug from the sump plate, forcing you to open the whole plate (6 little nuts) in order to drain the oil. People wouldn't bother cleaning the screen or clean the accumulated gunk from the screen area when they had a convenient drain plug. |
#17
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Plugs and wipers
John wrote:
> Re the .10 in and .15 out. I,ve usually set my valve clearances down to 8 > thou with engine dead cold. Too tight you think?. I seem to recall > somewhere that VW dropped it down to 6 thou. Could be wrong ( happens a lot > my wife says) 0.20 mm (0.008") was the clearance for engines with long rocker studs (about 1960 to 1964 from memory). Those long studs loosened and pulled out over time, and were replaced with short studs. I doubt that there's more than a handful of engines left in the world running with long studs. Back then, I often drove very hard (I was a rally driver), and ran my VWs with inlet on 0.20 mm and exhaust on 0.30 mm. On short-stud engines, the recommendation was 0.10 mm (0.004"), and I ran my inlets on that and exhausts on 0.15 mm (0.006"). The wider clearances now recommended (0.15 mm all round for short studs) run considerably noisier, which is why they weren't recommended back when these cars were new. John |
#18
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Plugs and wipers
On Aug 3, 2:38*pm, Olli Lammi >
wrote: > Hello! > ------ > > Two questions in one: > > 1) I changed the plugs after 12000 km had passed with the old ones > * * (Bosch W8AC to Bosch W8AC). The number 2 cylinder had a bit > * * different color in the old plug. (order 1-2-3-4 in the pic below) > > * * *http://olammi.iki.fi/olammi/tulpat20100803.jpg > > * * Does that colouring and deposit tell the trained eye about some > * * problem in the number two? Could it have anything to do with how the carb is jetted? I use a 130 main jet and 55 idle jet. I think the size of the idle jet depends on you altitude. > 2) The wind screen wipers (-73 model standard beetle) have lost > * * the "fast" option. Both on-positions in the switch move the > * * vipers in "slow" speed. The wipers on my 1973 Beetle were slow too. After I replaced the main wiring harness, from fuse box to tail lights, the wipers work like they are supposed to. Check everything else first though. |
#19
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Plugs and wipers
Jim Ed wrote:
> > Could it have anything to do with how the carb is jetted? > > I use a 130 main jet and 55 idle jet. I think the size of the idle > jet depends on you altitude. I have X130 main jet, g52,5 pilot jet, g45 aux jet and 110Z air correction jet. They should all be standard. --- Olli |
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