Condensation removal....

what about leather seats...does that add to the condensation?I have leather
and this is my first winter with the car.I find it gets a little humid in
there also
"Michael Pardee" > wrote in message
...
> "N.E.Ohio Bob" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Wet shoes and floor mats aggravate the situation too. bob
>
> I always forget that part. The heater gets going and evaporates the water
> from around our shoes and mats, then the moist air hits the not-yet-heated
> windows.
>
> Mike
>
>

"Abeness" > wrote in message

> C. E. White wrote:
>> Unfortunately most A/C systems don't run once the
>> temperature drops below 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
>
> I don't believe this holds true for automotive systems.

It does apply to automotive A/C.

>On my old
> Pontiac the A/C was directly tied to the defroster setting--switch
> the system to defrost, and the A/C was activated. Good way to keep
> the compressor oils circulating to keep the seals lubricated, in
> addition to removing condensation. Worked at any temp, as I recall,
> and I move around NY/New England.
>
> I'll confirm this on my new 94 Civic in a few days, as it has now
> gotten cold enough around here to check. Disabling it below 40
> degrees would be idiocy--it's the only way to remove condensation
> effectively. It is true, however, that many room A/Cs don't
> function when the outside temp is "too low"--which occasionally
> annoys me.

In fact, A/C systems start cycling the compressor at no less than 38 degrees
F. SO... when the air coming into the evaporator reaches this low
temperature, the compressor is cycled or shut OFF if the air temperature
entering the evaporator continues to drop. Otherwise the evaporator would
become a block of ice, which would prevent any air from reaching the heater
core (in nearly all cases).

--

- Philip

wrote:
> new model top loading washing machine in the US today.

they still sell top loaders

Philip wrote:
> In fact, A/C systems start cycling the compressor at no less than 38 degrees
> F. SO... when the air coming into the evaporator reaches this low
> temperature, the compressor is cycled or shut OFF if the air temperature
> entering the evaporator continues to drop. Otherwise the evaporator would
> become a block of ice, which would prevent any air from reaching the heater
> core (in nearly all cases).

Now THIS makes perfect sense. (I'd have to look up the temp at which
refrigerants go liquid to confirm or deny Steve G's belief.) I'm almost
certain that the A/C on my old 85 Pontiac would cycle at any temp,
though. I'll check up with the Honda soon.

Anyway, I doubt it would be that difficult (in the original design) to
construct an airflow system that would shunt warmer air around the evap
unit when the temp dropped in winter, in order to preserve the
dehumidifying characteristics of an A/C-based system.

"Abeness" > wrote in message
...
> Philip wrote:
> > In fact, A/C systems start cycling the compressor at no less than 38
degrees
> > F. SO... when the air coming into the evaporator reaches this low
> > temperature, the compressor is cycled or shut OFF if the air temperature
> > entering the evaporator continues to drop. Otherwise the evaporator
would
> > become a block of ice, which would prevent any air from reaching the
heater
> > core (in nearly all cases).
>
> Now THIS makes perfect sense. (I'd have to look up the temp at which
> refrigerants go liquid to confirm or deny Steve G's belief.) I'm almost
> certain that the A/C on my old 85 Pontiac would cycle at any temp,
> though. I'll check up with the Honda soon.
>
> Anyway, I doubt it would be that difficult (in the original design) to
> construct an airflow system that would shunt warmer air around the evap
> unit when the temp dropped in winter, in order to preserve the
> dehumidifying characteristics of an A/C-based system.

You would also have to direct warm air to the entire low pressure side of
the ac system to prevent the condensing of refrigerant gas back into liquid.
I live in a climate of 10 months of winter and 2 months poor sledding, have
been a licensed mechanic since about '72 and have never seen an ac comp
cycle in ambient temps colder than somewhere around that 40 degree mark.
and remember from my days in tech school that is the reason.
Don't forget when researching boiling point of refrigerant to factor in the
pressure. Adding pressure also raises the boiling point. As I'm typing
this I'm also recalling that there are cautions that when servicing/charging
the system to not allow low side pressure to drop too low for fear of
damaging the compressor. Go to K-mart and look at the labeling/cans of 134a
they market to the consumers and read the instructions. When charging you
override the low side cutout so you can keep the compressor running. In
this situation, temp above ambient cut-out and low pressure limit overidden,
a drop in low side pressure can take it below it's boiling point and risk
liquid refrigerant in the compressor. The warning on the charging kit
doesn't get into the explanation, but does give the caution about low side
pressure drops and damage to the compressor.
Steve

"Abeness" > wrote in message

> Philip wrote:
>> In fact, A/C systems start cycling the compressor at no less than
>> 38 degrees F. SO... when the air coming into the evaporator
>> reaches this low temperature, the compressor is cycled or shut OFF
>> if the air temperature entering the evaporator continues to drop.
>> Otherwise the evaporator would become a block of ice, which would
>> prevent any air from reaching the heater core (in nearly all
>> cases).
>
> Now THIS makes perfect sense. (I'd have to look up the temp at which
> refrigerants go liquid to confirm or deny Steve G's belief.) I'm
> almost certain that the A/C on my old 85 Pontiac would cycle at any
> temp, though. I'll check up with the Honda soon.
>
> Anyway, I doubt it would be that difficult (in the original design)
> to construct an airflow system that would shunt warmer air around
> the evap unit when the temp dropped in winter, in order to preserve the
> dehumidifying characteristics of an A/C-based system.

Thank you ('perfect sense'). Note that I said "air coming into the
evaporator." If air door is set to FRESH and the inducted air from outside
is below 38-40°F, all one need do (considering all the heat radiating off
the passenger(s), is select RECIRCULATE so that the air inducted to the
evaporator stays above 38-40°F. This will keep the A/C running. Remember
.... once the evaporator effectively become a solid block of ice, there will
be NO dehumidification.
--

- Philip

"Steve G" > wrote in message
news:LRWxd.557009$nl.118459@pd7tw3no
> "Abeness" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Philip wrote:
>>> In fact, A/C systems start cycling the compressor at no less than
>>> 38 degrees F. SO... when the air coming into the evaporator
>>> reaches this low temperature, the compressor is cycled or shut
>>> OFF if the air temperature entering the evaporator continues to
>>> drop. Otherwise the evaporator would become a block of ice,
>>> which would prevent any air from reaching the heater core (in
>>> nearly all cases).
>>
>> Now THIS makes perfect sense. (I'd have to look up the temp at
>> which refrigerants go liquid to confirm or deny Steve G's belief.)
>> I'm almost certain that the A/C on my old 85 Pontiac would cycle
>> at any temp,
>> though. I'll check up with the Honda soon.
>>
>> Anyway, I doubt it would be that difficult (in the original
>> design) to construct an airflow system that would shunt warmer air
>> around the evap unit when the temp dropped in winter, in order to
>> preserve the dehumidifying characteristics of an A/C-based system.
>
> You would also have to direct warm air to the entire low pressure
> side of the ac system to prevent the condensing of refrigerant gas
> back into liquid. I live in a climate of 10 months of winter and 2
> months poor sledding, have been a licensed mechanic since about '72
> and have never seen an ac comp cycle in ambient temps colder than
> somewhere around that 40 degree mark. and remember from my days in
> tech school that is the reason.

Question for you: Water condensation *on* the evaporator surface freezes at
32°F. At what temperature does low pressure refrigerant gas condense to a
solid liquid? Keep in mind that it is common to see frost all over much of
the exiting line from the evaporator leading to the compressor inlet while
the A/C system is functioning normally. Clue: it's lower than 32°F.

> Don't forget when researching boiling point of refrigerant to
> factor in the pressure. Adding pressure also raises the boiling
> point. As I'm typing this I'm also recalling that there are
> cautions that when servicing/charging the system to not allow low
> side pressure to drop too low for fear of damaging the compressor.
snip
>Steve

Not entirely accurate. The compressor's inlet side can drop into a slight
vacuum when a suction throttling valve is used on the outlet side of the
evaporator instead of an expansion valve to regulate refrigerant flow into
the evaporator. In any case, the low side pressure safety switch (if/when
there is one installed) will prevent such a condition from occurring on
systems equipped with only an expansion valve. Excessive high side pressure
is FAR more damaging to compressors which is why a high pressure safety
switch is present on all but the oldest automotive systems.
--

- Philip

Why does a glass of Ice water condensate in the Summer? Same reason your
windows fog up. Turning on the A/C in conjunction with the heater will help
dissipate the fog. The A/C puts out a dryer air than just the heater alone.
The heater will eventually dry up the fog, but it takes a while since it
depends on the coolant in your engine for heat. It's also a good thing to
run the A/C in the winter to stir up the coolant.

Don't have A/C? Then you're SOL, just kidding. Buy Rain-X Anti-Fog or that
pink wax stick you see at the home shows, and wipe it on your inside
windows. I rub the pink stuff on a terry shop towel and keep it under the
seat of all my cars for that purpose. Don't wipe your windows while
driving, pull over to a safe place and stop before wiping your windows.

Good Luck and Safe Driving!
JW

"ajpdla" > wrote in message
...
> Condensation on the inside windows. I hate it. How do I get rid of it?
> What's the cause of it? Why does it take so long to remove with the
> defroster? How can I seal up the outside of my car. What's the best way
to
> check for air/water infiltration. Ugh. Help!
>
>

Can I have a check, too? I could use a new front loader.

Aaron

"Philip" > wrote in message
nk.net...

> send me a check

Check for a water leak into the passenger compartment.

ajpdla wrote:

> Condensation on the inside windows. I hate it. How do I get rid of it?
> What's the cause of it? Why does it take so long to remove with the
> defroster? How can I seal up the outside of my car. What's the best way to
> check for air/water infiltration. Ugh. Help!

--
Tp,

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