Plugged Fuel Line

Can someone tell me the best and easest way to replace a blocked fuel line.
I have tried everything to clean it out with no luck. What will work best
rubber steel or copper lines and how would be the best way to run it so that
it does not get cought on anything? After setting about 3 years after being
pulled from a lake I seem to be seeing light at the end of the tunnel. Now
most of the things are mostly small problems.

Packrat46 wrote:
> Can someone tell me the best and easest way to replace a blocked fuel line.
> I have tried everything to clean it out with no luck. What will work best
> rubber steel or copper lines and how would be the best way to run it so that
> it does not get cought on anything? After setting about 3 years after being
> pulled from a lake I seem to be seeing light at the end of the tunnel. Now
> most of the things are mostly small problems.
>
>
>
1/4" soft copper is easiest to run. You can run it inside
along the tunnel on the passenger side. Clamp it to the tunnel.

You can also run it outside along the outer rim where the body
to pan bolts are.

There *is* a drawback to copper; it can work-harden with vibration
and (in extreme case) fracture. In real life, that's probably
not a problem in this app.

If you like steel, you can still make a nice neat job running
inside and clamping to the tunnel. Hold it an inch or so off
the floor and it won't rust (the way the factory brake line does:-(

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie... 200593880878

1/4 aluminum...run it through the tunnel...like stock. Its only a
couple hours of grief and its done forever

Gary Tateosian wrote:
> http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie... 200593880878
>
> 1/4 aluminum...run it through the tunnel...like stock. Its only a
> couple hours of grief and its done forever
>

Nice alternative.
Thanks,
Jim

Thanks all for ideas I still am not sure just how I will fix it. Right now I
am spraying lots of chem tool down the line hoping that will clean it out. I
hate working any harder then I have to. I beleave that setting 3 years
caused the gas to leave it;s white deposits and it will clean out. I will
flush it real good if it does work and if not then I will have to do it the
other way. Right now I have more work ahead as I just got in the new floor
pans and trying to think of just how I will replace them with no one around
to help. I am thinking of just jacking the body up just enough to get the
old ones out and the new ones in. Boy my air chisel beed getting a work out.
First cutting the top off and now the bottom. Not much left in between. This
car has tought me a big lesson. I will never buy another one that has been
under water.

"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
...
> Gary Tateosian wrote:
>> http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie... 200593880878
>>
>> 1/4 aluminum...run it through the tunnel...like stock. Its only a
>> couple hours of grief and its done forever
>>
>
> Nice alternative.
> Thanks,
> Jim

On Fri, 25 Nov 2005 23:04:51 GMT, "Packrat46"
> wrote:

>Thanks all for ideas I still am not sure just how I will fix it. Right now I
>am spraying lots of chem tool down the line hoping that will clean it out. I
>hate working any harder then I have to. I beleave that setting 3 years
>caused the gas to leave it;s white deposits and it will clean out. I will
>flush it real good if it does work and if not then I will have to do it the
>other way. Right now I have more work ahead as I just got in the new floor
>pans and trying to think of just how I will replace them with no one around
>to help. I am thinking of just jacking the body up just enough to get the
>old ones out and the new ones in. Boy my air chisel beed getting a work out.
>First cutting the top off and now the bottom. Not much left in between. This
>car has tought me a big lesson. I will never buy another one that has been
>under water.
>

This is how I got my body off:
http://www.weidema.com/remco/pix/72_bug_body_off37.JPG
(it is an older picture - the frame has now been stripped and is
sitting on a rollaround workbench)

The body can hover just mm over the frame, if that is what is needed
and can do it without any help.
Since you're not doing a body off, your stands would not need to do
anything near as elaborate. Maybe just a 2x6 on each side with some
sturdy supports, just long enough to hover the body a couple of inches
over the frame.

Remco






>"Speedy Jim" > wrote in message
t...
>> Gary Tateosian wrote:
>>> http://www.aircooled.net/new-bin/vie... 200593880878
>>>
>>> 1/4 aluminum...run it through the tunnel...like stock. Its only a
>>> couple hours of grief and its done forever
>>>
>>
>> Nice alternative.
>> Thanks,
>> Jim
>