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#21
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
On Dec 6, 10:20 pm, Elbert > wrote:
> On Thu, 6 Dec 2007 17:26:06 -0800 (PST), 1976VetteGuy > > > > > > > wrote: > >On Dec 6, 6:58 pm, Elbert > wrote: > >> On Wed, 5 Dec 2007 17:19:24 -0800 (PST), 1976VetteGuy > > >> > wrote: > >> >On Dec 5, 6:13 pm, "Eagle" > wrote: > >> >> On Wed, 5 Dec 2007 22:04:38 UTC, 1976VetteGuy > wrote: > >> >> > Is the heater core hard to get to??? > > >> >> The other possible solutions are much easier to try. I've done the > >> >> heater coil, A/C, and pretty much everything else on my 1982. The > >> >> heater coil fits through the firewall. The first step in the > >> >> repair manual is to remove the seats, dash, and everything over > >> >> the interior part of the heater coil. The second step involves > >> >> removing the parts in the way under the hood. A good mechanic > >> >> will charge about $500-700 for the day it will take to replace it. > >> >> Start by finding a repair manual for your 1976. > > >> >> David > > >> >I bought the C3 (it says like 1966-1976 Shop Manual in red on the > >> >cover) Shop Manual, but am very disappointed in the content. What are > >> >the best shop manuals out there? > > >> The GM shop manual is the only manual I've ever found that worth > >> buying. The others skip to much material or leave key steps and areas > >> "unexplained".. > >> ----------- > >> Elbert > >> - Hide quoted text - > > >> - Show quoted text - > > >Where can I get the GM shop manual? > > http://www.helminc.com > > They are relatively expensive but it you have a car you plan to keep > and would like to learn about the car or do the work yourself. The GM > shop manuals are the best. A 76 corvette would be for the most part > basic stuff, but everyone has to start somewhere. A GM shop manual > is a good investment. You might hunt around E-Bay too. I would not > waste my money on a CHILTON or Haynes unless that's the only thing > you can get. > ----------- > Elbert > - Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - Thanks...would this be what I need? "1976 Passenger Car Shop Manual Set" |
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#22
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
On Fri, 7 Dec 2007 07:04:45 -0800 (PST), 1976VetteGuy
> wrote: >On Dec 6, 10:20 pm, Elbert > wrote: >> On Thu, 6 Dec 2007 17:26:06 -0800 (PST), 1976VetteGuy >> >> >> >> >> >> > wrote: >> >On Dec 6, 6:58 pm, Elbert > wrote: >> >> On Wed, 5 Dec 2007 17:19:24 -0800 (PST), 1976VetteGuy >> >> >> > wrote: >> >> >On Dec 5, 6:13 pm, "Eagle" > wrote: >> >> >> On Wed, 5 Dec 2007 22:04:38 UTC, 1976VetteGuy > wrote: >> >> >> > Is the heater core hard to get to??? >> >> >> >> The other possible solutions are much easier to try. I've done the >> >> >> heater coil, A/C, and pretty much everything else on my 1982. The >> >> >> heater coil fits through the firewall. The first step in the >> >> >> repair manual is to remove the seats, dash, and everything over >> >> >> the interior part of the heater coil. The second step involves >> >> >> removing the parts in the way under the hood. A good mechanic >> >> >> will charge about $500-700 for the day it will take to replace it. >> >> >> Start by finding a repair manual for your 1976. >> >> >> >> David >> >> >> >I bought the C3 (it says like 1966-1976 Shop Manual in red on the >> >> >cover) Shop Manual, but am very disappointed in the content. What are >> >> >the best shop manuals out there? >> >> >> The GM shop manual is the only manual I've ever found that worth >> >> buying. The others skip to much material or leave key steps and areas >> >> "unexplained".. >> >> ----------- >> >> Elbert >> >> - Hide quoted text - >> >> >> - Show quoted text - >> >> >Where can I get the GM shop manual? >> >> http://www.helminc.com >> >> They are relatively expensive but it you have a car you plan to keep >> and would like to learn about the car or do the work yourself. The GM >> shop manuals are the best. A 76 corvette would be for the most part >> basic stuff, but everyone has to start somewhere. A GM shop manual >> is a good investment. You might hunt around E-Bay too. I would not >> waste my money on a CHILTON or Haynes unless that's the only thing >> you can get. >> ----------- >> Elbert >> - Hide quoted text - >> >> - Show quoted text - > >Thanks...would this be what I need? > >"1976 Passenger Car Shop Manual Set" it would appear so. Thats what I see when I go to the site and run the lookup. I've bought some manauals from them in the past but they were for newer model vehicles. I would get the GM shop manual from Helms, and it might be worth you while to do some searches on Ebay for corvetter specific GM shop manauals. The GM shop manual would certainly be very helpful. They are not hard to use and are very well written and illustrated fairly well. Take it from me, some of the other manuals are just plain garbage. I believe you can subscribe to Alldata and maybe other sources for shop manuals "on-line" but that might get a little expensive for a @home mechanic. Any GM vehicle I own or want to know more about in regard to repairs....the GM shop manual is the best source for information. ----------- Elbert |
#23
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
1976VetteGuy wrote:
> On Dec 6, 10:20 pm, Elbert > wrote: >> On Thu, 6 Dec 2007 17:26:06 -0800 (PST), 1976VetteGuy >> >> >> >> >> >> > wrote: >>> On Dec 6, 6:58 pm, Elbert > wrote: >>>> On Wed, 5 Dec 2007 17:19:24 -0800 (PST), 1976VetteGuy >>>> > wrote: >>>>> On Dec 5, 6:13 pm, "Eagle" > wrote: >>>>>> On Wed, 5 Dec 2007 22:04:38 UTC, 1976VetteGuy > wrote: >>>>>>> Is the heater core hard to get to??? >>>>>> The other possible solutions are much easier to try. I've done the >>>>>> heater coil, A/C, and pretty much everything else on my 1982. The >>>>>> heater coil fits through the firewall. The first step in the >>>>>> repair manual is to remove the seats, dash, and everything over >>>>>> the interior part of the heater coil. The second step involves >>>>>> removing the parts in the way under the hood. A good mechanic >>>>>> will charge about $500-700 for the day it will take to replace it. >>>>>> Start by finding a repair manual for your 1976. >>>>>> David >>>>> I bought the C3 (it says like 1966-1976 Shop Manual in red on the >>>>> cover) Shop Manual, but am very disappointed in the content. What are >>>>> the best shop manuals out there? >>>> The GM shop manual is the only manual I've ever found that worth >>>> buying. The others skip to much material or leave key steps and areas >>>> "unexplained".. >>>> ----------- >>>> Elbert >>>> - Hide quoted text - >>>> - Show quoted text - >>> Where can I get the GM shop manual? >> http://www.helminc.com >> >> They are relatively expensive but it you have a car you plan to keep >> and would like to learn about the car or do the work yourself. The GM >> shop manuals are the best. A 76 corvette would be for the most part >> basic stuff, but everyone has to start somewhere. A GM shop manual >> is a good investment. You might hunt around E-Bay too. I would not >> waste my money on a CHILTON or Haynes unless that's the only thing >> you can get. >> ----------- >> Elbert >> - Hide quoted text - >> >> - Show quoted text - > > Thanks...would this be what I need? > > "1976 Passenger Car Shop Manual Set" > Yes. P/N ST32976K $ 75 from Helm (probably a Xerox copy of the original.) Includes several other Chevrolet models. I'd not throw stones at adding a Chilton or Haynes to your library shelf after you get the factory manual. Sometimes those books will have a shortcut that may be helpful to someone who hasn't been through formal factory training or isn't too experienced. Sometimes Haynes will have a procedure that avoids use of a special tool. Example: On the C4, the factory manual procedure for removing the fuel pump is an involved project. The Haynes manual makes the job easier and quicker. -- pj |
#24
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
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#25
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
On Dec 7, 11:56 am, WayneC > wrote:
> http://www.ncrs.org/store/shop.cgi/p...SID=1197050020... > (look about halfway down the page) Are you talking about this thing? "1966-82 Corvette Shop Manual" If so...I bought it and it sucks... |
#26
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
1976VetteGuy wrote:
> On Dec 7, 11:56 am, WayneC > wrote: >> http://www.ncrs.org/store/shop.cgi/p...SID=1197050020... >> (look about halfway down the page) > > Are you talking about this thing? > > "1966-82 Corvette Shop Manual" > > If so...I bought it and it sucks... Then buy the GM chassis service manuals (but the '74 base manual is out of print, so you'll need to find a used one). http://www.antiqbook.com/boox/nort/625a5689.shtml http://www.biblio.com/details.php?dcx=16721582&aid=frg http://www.rarenonfiction.com/?page=...category_id=60 You are probably not going to find one perfect book that covers everything you'll ever want to know, specific to only your year. I don't have the one that claims to have excerpts from the GM manuals that cover "full maintenance, repair, troubleshooting and tune-up information" It sounds good... so help educate the rest of us: why/how does it suck? |
#27
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
On Dec 7, 11:56 am, WayneC > wrote:
> http://www.ncrs.org/store/shop.cgi/p...SID=1197050020... > (look about halfway down the page) OK...so I've figured out that the hoses running into the heater core aren't hot when the engine is at temp. So there's a flow issue somewhere. I also noticed that the hose running from the engine block, I believe, goes into the A/C box and is attached by a vacuum actuator valve that appears to have the vacuum line cut. Is it typical to have this valve in the line, and if so, where can I trace to where the hose should go to supply the vacuum? Will this cause the flow problem to the system? Last question...what causes the actuation to happen to the valve in the water loop? |
#28
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
On Nov 27, 4:39 am, WayneC > wrote:
> Here's some diagrams that might help you understand what's in your car: > http://www.docrebuild.com/dr-r-web/AC-VAC2.PDF > > Look at the diagram at the bottom center of the page and note the > unlabeled device at the top of the picture... that's a metal diverter valve > that sits in the engine compartment and has heater hoses connected to it. > The heater hoses are attached to the nipples shown at the top and right > coming out of that valve, the small hose shown as white in the diagram is a > vacuum hose that actuates the diverter valve to send hot water through > to the > heater core under the dash when you turn on the heater, or to bypass the > heater core and send the hot water back to the engine. > > note: This particular picture shows a system without a/c, but I believe > that same > valve is present on cars that DO have a/c as well, but they just don't > show it > on the a/c diagram (upper left on the page), they only show the airflow > door actuators. > I don't have a C3, so I can't verify that. > > That valve can stick or become disconnected from the vacuum hose, or > there could > be a leak in the vacuum system that prevents sufficient vacuum from > reaching the valve. > It is a common point of failure. The valve is not particularly expensive > to replace. > > It could be checked by applying vacuum directly to the valve to see if > the heater > then works (you should be able to feel that the water hose from the > diverter > to the heater is cool before vacuum is applied, then heats up with > vacuum applied). > You may need a vacuum pump to test with, or you can "borrow" vacuum from > another vacuum source on the engine by "Tee"ing into that good vacuum > source. > (Simply sucking on the hose orally is not likely to produce sufficient > vacuum.) > > You could also disconnect the two water hoses from the diverter valve > and clamp > them to opposite ends of one short section of copper tubing (5/8" I > believe) to bypass > the valve for the winter, then reattach them to the diverter valve in > the spring. > > Good luck. To all that helped me out I thank you... So from reading past posts, I am going to install the manual valves on the hoses as I think the vacuum control valve might be stuck in the closed position or something as I am not getting any flow to the heater core. One last question to everyone about this...do I need to drain the coolant level down to close off these valves in the summer? Also, when they are shut off, how can I make sure the heater core is not going to rust while it is not being used? In other words, do I drain it somehow when I close off the manual valves? Or does the water just stay in there all summer? Thanks again!!! |
#29
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
"1976VetteGuy" > wrote in message
... > To all that helped me out I thank you... > > So from reading past posts, I am going to install the > manual valves on > the hoses as I think the vacuum control valve might be > stuck in the > closed position or something as I am not getting any flow > to the > heater core. > > One last question to everyone about this...do I need to > drain the > coolant level down to close off these valves in the > summer? Also, > when they are shut off, how can I make sure the heater > core is not > going to rust while it is not being used? In other words, > do I drain > it somehow when I close off the manual valves? Or does > the water just > stay in there all summer? > > Thanks again!!! you should get the flow going to the heater core first. then don't drain the core. just simply open the valves from time to time to circulate the coolant through the heater core. g'day -- 'Key ===== |
#30
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New 1976 Owner with Limited Skills
1976VetteGuy wrote:
> So from reading past posts, I am going to install the manual valves on > the hoses as I think the vacuum control valve might be stuck in the > closed position or something as I am not getting any flow to the > heater core. > > One last question to everyone about this...do I need to drain the > coolant level down to close off these valves in the summer? Also, > when they are shut off, how can I make sure the heater core is not > going to rust while it is not being used? In other words, do I drain > it somehow when I close off the manual valves? Or does the water just > stay in there all summer? > > Thanks again!!! Did you price a vacuum valve? I think they are pretty reasonably priced. Why be fiddling with a valve under the hood when you don't have to? The heater core is made of aluminum (or possibly copper)... assuming that you keep a 50/50 mixture of water and quality anti-freeze in your cooling system and drain/refill every 3 to 5 years, with no leakage in the system in between refills, then no "rusting" or other deterioration should occur (it's just like leaving Pepsi in the can), so no need to drain the heater core. |
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