New battery, car still dead as doornail

"Cleo Frank" > wrote in message
...
> Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
> under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
> at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
> and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
> click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
>
> Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
> kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
> it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
> got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
> The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
> But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.

It WAS the main fuse (80 A). The box that contained this thing
was right in front of my eyes practically the whole time, next to
battery ..DUHHHHHH

Car is now its usual chipper self!

THANKS!


>
> Ideas?
>

"Cleo Frank" wrote: 1990 Mazda Protege

I accidentally connected my new battery backwards
(neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
got some sparks. It is now correctly connected,
but no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
___________________________________________

"Cleo Frank" wrote:

Update (for anyone interested). Problem discovered

It WAS the main fuse (80 A). The box that contained
this thing was right in front of my eyes practically the
whole time, next to battery ..DUHHHHHH

Car is now its usual chipper self! THANKS!
____________________________________________

Those of us who post here always enjoy hearing whether
our advice or opinions helped solve a problem. Thank you
for taking the time to report back.

Rodan.

"DaveM" > wrote in message
...
>
>
> Nope... The battery clamps are probably OK. There is a chance that the
> heavy cable from battery negative to chassis (or engine), or the cable
> from battery positive to the starter or starter relay is loose. Check the
> connections on the other end of those wires. If they're tight and clean
> (not corroded), then they are likely not the problem.
> That said, there's a 99.97% chance that you've damaged the car's
> electronics (computers). Your ECC (Engine Control Computer) is the guy
> that controls almost everything under the hood. If he's dead, then your
> car is essentially dead.
> Haul or tow the car to a *qualified* service facility for a thorough
> diagnosis. If it's the ECC, make sure your Master Card and/or Visa are in
> good standing. Judging from your description of events, the car might be
> beyond economical repair.
>
> --

Regarding your original problem, as others have suggested, a bad ground (-)
connection at the battery or where the battery cable is bolted to the car's
frame would cause the symptoms you described... intermittent non-starting,
dim instruments. Or a ground fault elsewhere. Ground faults are a *******
to diagnose, they could be caused by a wire's insulation having rubbed off,
a poor connection, a broken solder joint, corrosion inside a wire's
insulation which can't be seen. I have worked extensively on older cars'
electrical systems, and it takes some serious patience AND LOTS OF TIME
generally. I'm not saying that it definitely won't be a quick fix, just
mentally set yourself up for the long haul. That's why people in the know
shudder when you start talking about an intermittent ground fault problem...
and that's why it's generaly at least a few hundred bucks when you bring
your car to an auto electric specialist.

As far as hooking up the battery backwards, you can get a pretty good
indication of whether it's electronics or wiring by doing some simple tests.
Honk the horn. Turn on the headlights. These are generally both NOT wired
through the ignition module or ECC and should work if the battery is good
and the wiring is intact. If they DO work, that means any fusible link or
main fuse is fine, and that your problem is most likely with your ECC or,
hopefully, a fuse which controls the ECC. You can often buy salvaged ECC's
from online junkyards, you need to be EXTREMELEY SPECIFIC with the model
number... pull yours out and job down the exact model number. Different
models and/or years of the same car have different engines or features that
the ECC controls, so they are very specific to the particular year and model
of vehicle.

You blew the fuse links (not regular fuses), and prolly the ECM and
assorted other cotrollers. Have fun.
JR


Cleo Frank wrote:

> Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
> under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
> at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
> and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
> click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
>
> Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
> kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
> it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
> got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
> The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
> But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>
> Ideas?
>
>

--
--------------------------------------------------------------
Home Page: http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth

On Jun 11, 4:19*pm, default > wrote:
> On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:59:56 -0400, "Cleo Frank" >
> wrote:
\
> >Main fuse? *This one is not in the little box with the rest of the fuses?
>
> Roger, not with the little bitty fuses but something much larger or
> piece of wire designed to open with over current.

Yep, the infamous "fusible link" looks just like any other
wire BUT it's a selected length and gage (you DON'T
want to replace it with any other gage of wire!).

And, don't just casually replace the three inches
that burned up. You gotta replace the whole eight inches,
or it will die again, soon. DAMHIKT.

On Wed, 11 Jun 2008 19:00:05 -0400, "Cleo Frank" > wrote:

:Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
:under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
:at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
:and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
:click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
:
:Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
:kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
:it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
:got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
:The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
:But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
:
:Ideas?
:


See message #3246 (and onwards) here
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/dir.../.ee99794/3237

Bloke did something similar - he connected a battery charger in reverse. Your
car is probably similarly afflicted - ie. blown 100A fuse.

Cleo Frank wrote:
>
> Background: 1990 Mazda Protege, very well maintained, very clean
> under hood. Last night it started as usual. I drove it to the dumpster
> at the edge of my property to dump some trash, stopped the car,
> and cut engine. When I tried to start it back up, I got the usual
> click of a dead battery; digital clock very dim etc.
>
> Went to NAPA today and bought topnotch battery (the same
> kind that came in car when new). I did accidentally install
> it backwards (neg lead to pos post and pos lead to neg post),
> got some sparks, but the battery is now securely connected.
> The lead clamps are pretty clean and don't appear damaged.
> But no power whatever, clock dead, nothing.
>
> Ideas?

Blown fusible link.


--
Paul Hovnanian
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Have gnu, will travel.

In article >,
says...
> Just how dead are doornails?
> Come to think of it.......
> What the hell is a doornail anyhow?
>
Try Searching the net....

Too Lazy?

Try here;

http://www.thefreedictionary.com/doornail



- Tim -