THE Headlight Lens Replacement How-To (1987-1993)

> oneadvent wrote:

Thanks for the tips, Josh!

I just finished the job. Since I couldn't find good clear procedures
for replacing lenses anywhere on the net or this newsgroup, I wanted to
make this post as comprehesive as possible, so let me add a few things.


1) "the headlights have 6 connection points"

Yes, they do. Tip he Don't start a project early in the morning
before you have a chance to clear the crusties from your eyes. There
are three long headlight-adjustment bolts AND three mounting-bolts WITH
7/16 nuts -- two of the nuts are on the "grill side" and one is on the
"fender side" of the headlight.

2) "they are very hard to get to. you will need to take off the
radiator clips to get to the ones in the middle."

I didn't remove any radiator clips. I simply disconnnected the
headlight bulb from the headlight housing. Removing the bulb and wire
gave me enough room to get at the three bolts/nuts.

3) "the only way to get the big one off is to loosen it almost all the
way off."

I assume you're talking about the top, "grill-side" nut. I found is
wasn't possible to remove this nut _completely_ until you removed the
other two nuts (and loosen the third) and you can push the headlight
lense forward a little. There isn't enough room between the end of the
bolt and the airbag sensor that's mounted to the radiator support to
spin this nut all the way off. (Note: Obviously, pre-air bag cars
wouldn't have this obstruction.)

Once you get these three nuts off, the headlight lense just slides out.


HANDY TIP: I found a very small flat-bladed screwdriver works extremely
well manipulating the black rubber seals (that are clipped to the
outside of the lenses) while sliding the lenses out and back into
position.

Now that the headlight lense is out, remove the black rubber seals.
There are two "slider clips" on each end of the lense. Use a flat
screw driver to slide them off and the black seal itself will then fall
off.

This is where the other three "long headlight-adjustment bolts" come
into play. There's a little clip on the end of each that must be
popped off in order to remove the plastic headlight lenses _housing_.
Again, a flat screwdriver is your friend to perform this task. Be
careful not to damage or bend up these clips!

Now that the plastic headlight-lense housing has been removed from the
headlight lense itself, simply reverse the steps to reinstall your new
headlight lense.

Remember to use your little flat-bladed screw driver to manipulate the
black rubber seal surrounding the headlighlights. While using this
screwdriver, work very slowly & CAREFULLY to not damage the seals.

Also, when you get the headlight lense/housing ALMOST back in place,
spin the top "grill-side" nut onto the bolt while you still have room.

Tighten the bolts and plug the headlights back in and you're done,
ALMOST. You see... after you have replaced your old worn, yellowed
headlight lenses you quickly find that your once decent looking
blickers now look HORRIBLE!

So the last step is: Ordering new blicker lenses.

4) "its about 2 hours of headache."

Once I opened my eyes and found the three mounting bolts/nuts, it took
me about an hour to finish the job... and 15 minutes to order new
blickers lenses. Overall, I found it a pretty easy job.

Patrick

---------------

> > I received new headlight lenses for my 1993 Cobra. Looking at the new
> > lenses I can see three (3) attachment points, and looking at the
> > existing lenses there are long bolts that fit into these attachment
> > points. However, I don't see any sort of nut or clip on these bolts.
> > So how do you get the lenses off/out?

> i consider myself am expert in this subject, as i just changed mine out
> with about a week of headaches.

> the headlights have 6 connection points, however only 3 are used. they
> are very hard to get to. you will need to take off the radiator clips
> to get to the ones in the middle. first take off the big one. if you
> start with the driver side there will be one on the right of the light.
> there are two on the left. there are two total for the other two
> lights. the only way to get the big one off is to loosen it almost all
> the way off.
>
> be prepared with a 7/16 wrench and socket(you will need both) and it
> helps to have a deep well, but you don't have to. its about 2 hours of
> headache.
>
> remember the key is to take off the radiator clips.
>
> good luck,
>
> josh.

wrote:
> > oneadvent wrote:

One more tip:

You may want to use gloves while handling your new lenses. I
heard/read that the oil/sweat from your skin can cause your headlight
lenses to prematurely yellow. Anyone want to verify?

Patrick


> Thanks for the tips, Josh!
>
> I just finished the job. Since I couldn't find good clear procedures
> for replacing lenses anywhere on the net or this newsgroup, I wanted to
> make this post as comprehesive as possible, so let me add a few things.
>
>
> 1) "the headlights have 6 connection points"
>
> Yes, they do. Tip he Don't start a project early in the morning
> before you have a chance to clear the crusties from your eyes. There
> are three long headlight-adjustment bolts AND three mounting-bolts WITH
> 7/16 nuts -- two of the nuts are on the "grill side" and one is on the
> "fender side" of the headlight.
>
> 2) "they are very hard to get to. you will need to take off the
> radiator clips to get to the ones in the middle."
>
> I didn't remove any radiator clips. I simply disconnnected the
> headlight bulb from the headlight housing. Removing the bulb and wire
> gave me enough room to get at the three bolts/nuts.
>
> 3) "the only way to get the big one off is to loosen it almost all the
> way off."
>
> I assume you're talking about the top, "grill-side" nut. I found is
> wasn't possible to remove this nut _completely_ until you removed the
> other two nuts (and loosen the third) and you can push the headlight
> lense forward a little. There isn't enough room between the end of the
> bolt and the airbag sensor that's mounted to the radiator support to
> spin this nut all the way off. (Note: Obviously, pre-air bag cars
> wouldn't have this obstruction.)
>
> Once you get these three nuts off, the headlight lense just slides out.
>
>
> HANDY TIP: I found a very small flat-bladed screwdriver works extremely
> well manipulating the black rubber seals (that are clipped to the
> outside of the lenses) while sliding the lenses out and back into
> position.
>
> Now that the headlight lense is out, remove the black rubber seals.
> There are two "slider clips" on each end of the lense. Use a flat
> screw driver to slide them off and the black seal itself will then fall
> off.
>
> This is where the other three "long headlight-adjustment bolts" come
> into play. There's a little clip on the end of each that must be
> popped off in order to remove the plastic headlight lenses _housing_.
> Again, a flat screwdriver is your friend to perform this task. Be
> careful not to damage or bend up these clips!
>
> Now that the plastic headlight-lense housing has been removed from the
> headlight lense itself, simply reverse the steps to reinstall your new
> headlight lense.
>
> Remember to use your little flat-bladed screw driver to manipulate the
> black rubber seal surrounding the headlighlights. While using this
> screwdriver, work very slowly & CAREFULLY to not damage the seals.
>
> Also, when you get the headlight lense/housing ALMOST back in place,
> spin the top "grill-side" nut onto the bolt while you still have room.
>
> Tighten the bolts and plug the headlights back in and you're done,
> ALMOST. You see... after you have replaced your old worn, yellowed
> headlight lenses you quickly find that your once decent looking
> blickers now look HORRIBLE!
>
> So the last step is: Ordering new blicker lenses.
>
> 4) "its about 2 hours of headache."
>
> Once I opened my eyes and found the three mounting bolts/nuts, it took
> me about an hour to finish the job... and 15 minutes to order new
> blickers lenses. Overall, I found it a pretty easy job.
>
> Patrick
>
> ---------------
>
> > > I received new headlight lenses for my 1993 Cobra. Looking at the new
> > > lenses I can see three (3) attachment points, and looking at the
> > > existing lenses there are long bolts that fit into these attachment
> > > points. However, I don't see any sort of nut or clip on these bolts.
> > > So how do you get the lenses off/out?
>
> > i consider myself am expert in this subject, as i just changed mine out
> > with about a week of headaches.
>
> > the headlights have 6 connection points, however only 3 are used. they
> > are very hard to get to. you will need to take off the radiator clips
> > to get to the ones in the middle. first take off the big one. if you
> > start with the driver side there will be one on the right of the light.
> > there are two on the left. there are two total for the other two
> > lights. the only way to get the big one off is to loosen it almost all
> > the way off.
> >
> > be prepared with a 7/16 wrench and socket(you will need both) and it
> > helps to have a deep well, but you don't have to. its about 2 hours of
> > headache.
> >
> > remember the key is to take off the radiator clips.
> >
> > good luck,
> >
> > josh.

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> wrote:
>> > oneadvent wrote:
>
> One more tip:
>
> You may want to use gloves while handling your new lenses. I
> heard/read that the oil/sweat from your skin can cause your headlight
> lenses to prematurely yellow. Anyone want to verify?
>
> Patrick

I don't know about that, but I do know that you don't want to touch the
bulbs!

Congratulations, Patrick, I knew you could manage it. And I'm sorry that you
bought ONLY the headlight covers. Yes, when you replace those, you also want
to replace the other two at the same time...

There aren't many things you can do to these aging Foxes that have such an
immediate and satisfying result. That rates up there with the best money and
two hours I ever spent on TFrog.

P.S.: I wasn't going to point you to this "how to" article in RAMFM's past,
but here it is, now. The thread was called "how in the h*&&", and someone
calling himself 2.3Sleeper gave this advice about swapping out the
headlights:

"Get a Chilton's manual. It will show ya.
Ok, I just checked and it doesn't. So here is how ya do it.
Open can of beer (your choice)
Open the hood(this step is always important).
Set can of beer on a flat surface under the engine.
You must notice that you have a front skirt, and inside of this you have a
"Headlamp mounting panel", also called the "Cover reinforcement". If you
look between this mounting panel and the structure, you will see that each
headlight has 3 bolts/nuts holding it in. If I remember correctly, the
inside has 1 bolt/nut combo. The outside edge has 2. Same for right and left
hand sides of vehicle. Also, they have 3 guide prongs.

After confirming this info, drink heartily from beer.
Begin walking to your toolbox, stop turn around and get beer to take with
you to the toolbox. Guess as to the size of wrench you need and walk back
tyo vehicle. Attempt to remove nuts and realize you have wrong size wrench.
Think to yuourself as you are walking back to your toolbox, "Hey, I needed
my beer anyways". Arrive at toolbox, drain last of beer, get right sized
wrench, and go get another beer. Return to vehicle, while drinking beer
along the way. Remove all 6 nuts, drink beer. Remove headlamp assembly,
drink beer. Go inside to grab new beer, close fridge and being walking out.
Return to fridge, grab several beers to minimize distance traveled. Return
to vehicle and begin installation exactly the opposite of removal, drinking
at regualr intervals while working.

Just my two wheat penny's.
Don Manning"


dwight

dwight wrote:

> > One more tip:

> > You may want to use gloves while handling your new lenses. I
> > heard/read that the oil/sweat from your skin can cause your headlight
> > lenses to prematurely yellow. Anyone want to verify?

> I don't know about that, but I do know that you don't want to touch the
> bulbs!

> Congratulations, Patrick, I knew you could manage it. And I'm sorry that you
> bought ONLY the headlight covers. Yes, when you replace those, you also want
> to replace the other two at the same time...

The outside marker lights/blinkers look okay to me. Did you change
yours/all three?

> There aren't many things you can do to these aging Foxes that have such an
> immediate and satisfying result. That rates up there with the best money and
> two hours I ever spent on TFrog.

I must agree.

> P.S.: I wasn't going to point you to this "how to" article in RAMFM's past,
> but here it is, now. The thread was called "how in the h*&&", and someone
> calling himself 2.3Sleeper gave this advice about swapping out the
> headlights:

> "Get a Chilton's manual. It will show ya.
> Ok, I just checked and it doesn't. So here is how ya do it.
> Open can of beer (your choice)
> Open the hood(this step is always important).
> Set can of beer on a flat surface under the engine.
> You must notice that you have a front skirt, and inside of this you have a
> "Headlamp mounting panel", also called the "Cover reinforcement". If you
> look between this mounting panel and the structure, you will see that each
> headlight has 3 bolts/nuts holding it in. If I remember correctly, the
> inside has 1 bolt/nut combo. The outside edge has 2. Same for right and left
> hand sides of vehicle. Also, they have 3 guide prongs.
>
> After confirming this info, drink heartily from beer.
> Begin walking to your toolbox, stop turn around and get beer to take with
> you to the toolbox. Guess as to the size of wrench you need and walk back
> tyo vehicle. Attempt to remove nuts and realize you have wrong size wrench.
> Think to yuourself as you are walking back to your toolbox, "Hey, I needed
> my beer anyways". Arrive at toolbox, drain last of beer, get right sized
> wrench, and go get another beer. Return to vehicle, while drinking beer
> along the way. Remove all 6 nuts, drink beer. Remove headlamp assembly,
> drink beer. Go inside to grab new beer, close fridge and being walking out.
> Return to fridge, grab several beers to minimize distance traveled. Return
> to vehicle and begin installation exactly the opposite of removal, drinking
> at regualr intervals while working.

> Just my two wheat penny's.
> Don Manning"

That's a classic! Thanks for sharing!

Patrick

> wrote in message
oups.com...
> dwight wrote:
>
>> Congratulations, Patrick, I knew you could manage it. And I'm sorry that
>> you
>> bought ONLY the headlight covers. Yes, when you replace those, you also
>> want
>> to replace the other two at the same time...
>
> The outside marker lights/blinkers look okay to me. Did you change
> yours/all three?

The complete sets on both sides. Still have a sort-of before and after on
the website. Click "Tfrog" at www.tfrog93.com.

>> There aren't many things you can do to these aging Foxes that have such
>> an
>> immediate and satisfying result. That rates up there with the best money
>> and
>> two hours I ever spent on TFrog.
>
> I must agree.
>
>> P.S.: I wasn't going to point you to this "how to" article in RAMFM's
>> past,
>> but here it is, now. The thread was called "how in the h*&&", and someone
>> calling himself 2.3Sleeper gave this advice about swapping out the
>> headlights:
>
>> "Get a Chilton's manual. It will show ya.
>> Ok, I just checked and it doesn't. So here is how ya do it.
>> Open can of beer (your choice)
>> Open the hood(this step is always important).
>> Set can of beer on a flat surface under the engine.
>> You must notice that you have a front skirt, and inside of this you have
>> a
>> "Headlamp mounting panel", also called the "Cover reinforcement". If you
>> look between this mounting panel and the structure, you will see that
>> each
>> headlight has 3 bolts/nuts holding it in. If I remember correctly, the
>> inside has 1 bolt/nut combo. The outside edge has 2. Same for right and
>> left
>> hand sides of vehicle. Also, they have 3 guide prongs.
>>
>> After confirming this info, drink heartily from beer.
>> Begin walking to your toolbox, stop turn around and get beer to take with
>> you to the toolbox. Guess as to the size of wrench you need and walk back
>> tyo vehicle. Attempt to remove nuts and realize you have wrong size
>> wrench.
>> Think to yuourself as you are walking back to your toolbox, "Hey, I
>> needed
>> my beer anyways". Arrive at toolbox, drain last of beer, get right sized
>> wrench, and go get another beer. Return to vehicle, while drinking beer
>> along the way. Remove all 6 nuts, drink beer. Remove headlamp assembly,
>> drink beer. Go inside to grab new beer, close fridge and being walking
>> out.
>> Return to fridge, grab several beers to minimize distance traveled.
>> Return
>> to vehicle and begin installation exactly the opposite of removal,
>> drinking
>> at regualr intervals while working.
>
>> Just my two wheat penny's.
>> Don Manning"
>
> That's a classic! Thanks for sharing!
>
> Patrick

Yeah, in hindsight, I wish I were a beer drinker. I can remember skinned
knuckles and a couple of trips to the hardware store for better tools.

)

Sorry I missed this thread - I might've been able to save you a few
minutes of angst, Patrick.

At any rate, you are right on the money - the only exception to what you
wrote was that I had to remove the inner parking lamp/blinker first in
order to remove the headlight with the rubber shroud intact. The
clearance was pretty tight, and the headlight just wouldn't come out
without severely distorting the shroud, and I didn't want to take the
chance of destroying it.

The only other thing I might add is that once you have the grey/black
shell off the old lens (and before putting it on the new lens), you
might want to clean up the adjustment screws with a few squirts of WD40.
Over the years they will get caked with dirt and sometimes become hard
to turn, which is a bit PITA when you're trying to adjust them.
Squirting some WD40 on them, then turning them a dozen or so turns in,
then back out (and vice-versa) helped loosen up mine a lot. I
inevitably had to adjust the new ones once they were re-installed, so it
was well worth the time to clean them up. Just make sure to clean up
any excess WD40 from the shell before you snap it back onto the new
lens.

FWIW, I agree 100% with you guys - it's one of those great bang-for-the-
buck things to be able to see clearly at night. With the hi-power
bulbs, visibility is better than new. BTW, here's where I got the info
for the GE Nighthawk bulbs - look towards the bottom:
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...good/good.html

Joe
Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies
Black '03 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC


"dwight" > wrote in
:

> > wrote in message
> oups.com...
>> dwight wrote:
>>
>>> Congratulations, Patrick, I knew you could manage it. And I'm sorry
>>> that you
>>> bought ONLY the headlight covers. Yes, when you replace those, you
>>> also want
>>> to replace the other two at the same time...
>>
>> The outside marker lights/blinkers look okay to me. Did you change
>> yours/all three?
>
> The complete sets on both sides. Still have a sort-of before and after
> on the website. Click "Tfrog" at www.tfrog93.com.
>
>>> There aren't many things you can do to these aging Foxes that have
>>> such an
>>> immediate and satisfying result. That rates up there with the best
>>> money and
>>> two hours I ever spent on TFrog.
>>
>> I must agree.
>>
>>> P.S.: I wasn't going to point you to this "how to" article in
>>> RAMFM's past,
>>> but here it is, now. The thread was called "how in the h*&&", and
>>> someone calling himself 2.3Sleeper gave this advice about swapping
>>> out the headlights:
>>
>>> "Get a Chilton's manual. It will show ya.
>>> Ok, I just checked and it doesn't. So here is how ya do it.
>>> Open can of beer (your choice)
>>> Open the hood(this step is always important).
>>> Set can of beer on a flat surface under the engine.
>>> You must notice that you have a front skirt, and inside of this you
>>> have a
>>> "Headlamp mounting panel", also called the "Cover reinforcement". If
>>> you look between this mounting panel and the structure, you will see
>>> that each
>>> headlight has 3 bolts/nuts holding it in. If I remember correctly,
>>> the inside has 1 bolt/nut combo. The outside edge has 2. Same for
>>> right and left
>>> hand sides of vehicle. Also, they have 3 guide prongs.
>>>
>>> After confirming this info, drink heartily from beer.
>>> Begin walking to your toolbox, stop turn around and get beer to take
>>> with you to the toolbox. Guess as to the size of wrench you need and
>>> walk back tyo vehicle. Attempt to remove nuts and realize you have
>>> wrong size wrench.
>>> Think to yuourself as you are walking back to your toolbox, "Hey, I
>>> needed
>>> my beer anyways". Arrive at toolbox, drain last of beer, get right
>>> sized wrench, and go get another beer. Return to vehicle, while
>>> drinking beer along the way. Remove all 6 nuts, drink beer. Remove
>>> headlamp assembly, drink beer. Go inside to grab new beer, close
>>> fridge and being walking out.
>>> Return to fridge, grab several beers to minimize distance traveled.
>>> Return
>>> to vehicle and begin installation exactly the opposite of removal,
>>> drinking
>>> at regualr intervals while working.
>>
>>> Just my two wheat penny's.
>>> Don Manning"
>>
>> That's a classic! Thanks for sharing!
>>
>> Patrick
>
> Yeah, in hindsight, I wish I were a beer drinker. I can remember
> skinned knuckles and a couple of trips to the hardware store for
> better tools.
>
>)
>
>
>

Joe wrote:
> Sorry I missed this thread - I might've been able to save you a few
> minutes of angst, Patrick.

> At any rate, you are right on the money - the only exception to what you
> wrote was that I had to remove the inner parking lamp/blinker first in
> order to remove the headlight with the rubber shroud intact. The
> clearance was pretty tight, and the headlight just wouldn't come out
> without severely distorting the shroud, and I didn't want to take the
> chance of destroying it.

> The only other thing I might add is that once you have the grey/black
> shell off the old lens (and before putting it on the new lens), you
> might want to clean up the adjustment screws with a few squirts of WD40.
> Over the years they will get caked with dirt and sometimes become hard
> to turn, which is a bit PITA when you're trying to adjust them.
> Squirting some WD40 on them, then turning them a dozen or so turns in,
> then back out (and vice-versa) helped loosen up mine a lot. I
> inevitably had to adjust the new ones once they were re-installed, so it
> was well worth the time to clean them up. Just make sure to clean up
> any excess WD40 from the shell before you snap it back onto the new
> lens.

Good info, Joe! Thanks for adding to the thread.

> FWIW, I agree 100% with you guys - it's one of those great bang-for-the-
> buck things to be able to see clearly at night. With the hi-power
> bulbs, visibility is better than new. BTW, here's where I got the info
> for the GE Nighthawk bulbs - look towards the bottom:
> http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...good/good.html

Yep, that's the guy who recommended my current bulbs. I'll have to
check these new ones out... rural Florida highways can be hazardous at
night with all the critters running around.

Patrick
----


> Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies
> Black '03 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC
>
>
> "dwight" > wrote in
> :
>
> > > wrote in message
> > oups.com...
> >> dwight wrote:
> >>
> >>> Congratulations, Patrick, I knew you could manage it. And I'm sorry
> >>> that you
> >>> bought ONLY the headlight covers. Yes, when you replace those, you
> >>> also want
> >>> to replace the other two at the same time...
> >>
> >> The outside marker lights/blinkers look okay to me. Did you change
> >> yours/all three?
> >
> > The complete sets on both sides. Still have a sort-of before and after
> > on the website. Click "Tfrog" at www.tfrog93.com.
> >
> >>> There aren't many things you can do to these aging Foxes that have
> >>> such an
> >>> immediate and satisfying result. That rates up there with the best
> >>> money and
> >>> two hours I ever spent on TFrog.
> >>
> >> I must agree.
> >>
> >>> P.S.: I wasn't going to point you to this "how to" article in
> >>> RAMFM's past,
> >>> but here it is, now. The thread was called "how in the h*&&", and
> >>> someone calling himself 2.3Sleeper gave this advice about swapping
> >>> out the headlights:
> >>
> >>> "Get a Chilton's manual. It will show ya.
> >>> Ok, I just checked and it doesn't. So here is how ya do it.
> >>> Open can of beer (your choice)
> >>> Open the hood(this step is always important).
> >>> Set can of beer on a flat surface under the engine.
> >>> You must notice that you have a front skirt, and inside of this you
> >>> have a
> >>> "Headlamp mounting panel", also called the "Cover reinforcement". If
> >>> you look between this mounting panel and the structure, you will see
> >>> that each
> >>> headlight has 3 bolts/nuts holding it in. If I remember correctly,
> >>> the inside has 1 bolt/nut combo. The outside edge has 2. Same for
> >>> right and left
> >>> hand sides of vehicle. Also, they have 3 guide prongs.
> >>>
> >>> After confirming this info, drink heartily from beer.
> >>> Begin walking to your toolbox, stop turn around and get beer to take
> >>> with you to the toolbox. Guess as to the size of wrench you need and
> >>> walk back tyo vehicle. Attempt to remove nuts and realize you have
> >>> wrong size wrench.
> >>> Think to yuourself as you are walking back to your toolbox, "Hey, I
> >>> needed
> >>> my beer anyways". Arrive at toolbox, drain last of beer, get right
> >>> sized wrench, and go get another beer. Return to vehicle, while
> >>> drinking beer along the way. Remove all 6 nuts, drink beer. Remove
> >>> headlamp assembly, drink beer. Go inside to grab new beer, close
> >>> fridge and being walking out.
> >>> Return to fridge, grab several beers to minimize distance traveled.
> >>> Return
> >>> to vehicle and begin installation exactly the opposite of removal,
> >>> drinking
> >>> at regualr intervals while working.
> >>
> >>> Just my two wheat penny's.
> >>> Don Manning"
> >>
> >> That's a classic! Thanks for sharing!
> >>
> >> Patrick
> >
> > Yeah, in hindsight, I wish I were a beer drinker. I can remember
> > skinned knuckles and a couple of trips to the hardware store for
> > better tools.
> >
> >)
> >
> >
> >

wrote:

>> FWIW, I agree 100% with you guys - it's one of those great bang-for-the-
>> buck things to be able to see clearly at night. With the hi-power
>> bulbs, visibility is better than new. BTW, here's where I got the info
>> for the GE Nighthawk bulbs - look towards the bottom:
>> http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...good/good.html
>
> Yep, that's the guy who recommended my current bulbs. I'll have to
> check these new ones out... rural Florida highways can be hazardous at
> night with all the critters running around.
>
> Patrick
> ----
>
>

Get you some real HIDs, about $250 on eBay

--

I used to have abs. Now, I've just got ab.
One big ol' Ab. - BigSkiff www.titanspot.com

Pyongyang sounds more like the sound effect an ACME catapult makes
as it goes off at precisely the wrong moment for Wile E. Coyote. -
Cadbury Moose

"WindsorFox[SS]" > wrote in
news:nGJLg.11000$xk3.2118@dukeread07:

> wrote:
>
>>> FWIW, I agree 100% with you guys - it's one of those great
>>> bang-for-the- buck things to be able to see clearly at night. With
>>> the hi-power bulbs, visibility is better than new. BTW, here's
>>> where I got the info for the GE Nighthawk bulbs - look towards the
>>> bottom:
>>> http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...good/good.html
>>
>> Yep, that's the guy who recommended my current bulbs. I'll have to
>> check these new ones out... rural Florida highways can be hazardous
>> at night with all the critters running around.
>>
>> Patrick
>> ----
>>
>>
>
> Get you some real HIDs, about $250 on eBay

At $35/pair at WallyWorld, the GE Nighthawks are just fine. And how
long until the stock wiring on a '93 burns up with those HIDs?

Joe wrote:
> "WindsorFox[SS]" > wrote in
> news:nGJLg.11000$xk3.2118@dukeread07:
>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>> FWIW, I agree 100% with you guys - it's one of those great
>>>> bang-for-the- buck things to be able to see clearly at night. With
>>>> the hi-power bulbs, visibility is better than new. BTW, here's
>>>> where I got the info for the GE Nighthawk bulbs - look towards the
>>>> bottom:
>>>> http://www.danielsternlighting.com/t...good/good.html
>>> Yep, that's the guy who recommended my current bulbs. I'll have to
>>> check these new ones out... rural Florida highways can be hazardous
>>> at night with all the critters running around.
>>>
>>> Patrick
>>> ----
>>>
>>>
>> Get you some real HIDs, about $250 on eBay
>
> At $35/pair at WallyWorld, the GE Nighthawks are just fine. And how
> long until the stock wiring on a '93 burns up with those HIDs?


Never. The HIDs I installed in my truck are a lot brighter than
regular bulbs, yes, including SilverStars etc. and they use only 35
watts. Somehow I expected at least you to know the difference between
real and fake HIDs. $35 for a pair of halogen bulbs?? I guess that's
fine if all you want is good enough. After owning a vehicle that came
with HID lighting this was a the best mod I've made.

Here are the comparison pictures showing my truck next to my
stepdad's truck. I have true HIDs in the low beam, Silver Stars in the
high beam, and regular halogen in the fogs, then next to my mom's RX330
that has projector bi-xenon HIDs and regular halogen fogs.

http://www.titanspot.com/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=2025

Here is a link to the first kit I found in an eBay search, which
just so happens to be for a Mustang. I would look for possible better
prices and I would recommend getting a kit that does not have a separate
igniter module like the one pictured. My kit was $204 shipped and has an
aluminum finned housing for the ballast with a built in igniter assy. I
also recommend not going any higher than 5000 degrees on color, they may
look cool from the front but the higher the number the more blue they
become and you start losing brightness. The stock systems that come on
Infinitis, Nissans, and such are 4300 and the brightest, the Mercedes I
*think* are 4700 or 5000 which is whiter and not quite as bright but up
to 5000 you will not lose much in the way of usable light. Know that
Daniel Sterne will tell you how horrible these things are and you're a
bad bad person for using them, but then you're a bad person for driving
a Ford anyway. I've never been hassled and never had an oncoming car
flash me but they are set correctly and they made a very big difference
in seeing at night even on a new vehicle that does not have the lighting
problems that a Fox Mustang has.

http://tinyurl.com/j9mw9


--
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One big ol' Ab. - BigSkiff www.titanspot.com

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