e39 2001 530i Replacing upper rear control arm and ball joint

e39 2001 530i
Chris at German Autosport in Berkeley told me I need to replace the upper
rear control arm and the ball socket - there was visible movement
possible in the left rear wheel , while car was racked.

I have the Bentley Manual. I have replaced control arms on an E28
and an E34. This job does not look too bad given all the special tools
-- including the spring compressor

33 2 301
33 2 302
33 2 303
33 2 304
33 2 305
33 2 306

Questions:

Do I need to compress the spring? THese tools are going to cost, if
I can find them. I find no help at e39 DIY archives.

Many Thanks

On Mar 23, 3:02 pm, mark barron > wrote:
> e39 2001 530i
> Chris at German Autosport in Berkeley told me I need to replace the upper
> rear control arm and the ball socket - there was visible movement
> possible in the left rear wheel , while car was racked.
>
> I have the Bentley Manual. I have replaced control arms on an E28
> and an E34. This job does not look too bad given all the special tools
> -- including the spring compressor
>
> 33 2 301
> 33 2 302
> 33 2 303
> 33 2 304
> 33 2 305
> 33 2 306
>
> Questions:
>
> Do I need to compress the spring? THese tools are going to cost, if
> I can find them. I find no help at e39 DIY archives.
>
> Many Thanks

If it's one of the top links on here then no, you don't, and I doubt
you do for anything else, although it might makes things a bit easier.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...& hg=33&fg=30

adder1969 wrote:
> On Mar 23, 3:02 pm, mark barron > wrote:
>> e39 2001 530i
>> Chris at German Autosport in Berkeley told me I need to replace the upper
>> rear control arm and the ball socket - there was visible movement
>> possible in the left rear wheel , while car was racked.
>>
>> I have the Bentley Manual. I have replaced control arms on an E28
>> and an E34. This job does not look too bad given all the special tools
>> -- including the spring compressor
>>
>> 33 2 301
>> 33 2 302
>> 33 2 303
>> 33 2 304
>> 33 2 305
>> 33 2 306
>>
>> Questions:
>>
>> Do I need to compress the spring? THese tools are going to cost, if
>> I can find them. I find no help at e39 DIY archives.
>>
>> Many Thanks
>
> If it's one of the top links on here then no, you don't, and I doubt
> you do for anything else, although it might makes things a bit easier.
>
> http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...& hg=33&fg=30
>
I am so very grateful for your reply adder1969. Thank you, thank you.

mark barron wrote:
> adder1969 wrote:
>> On Mar 23, 3:02 pm, mark barron > wrote:
>>> e39 2001 530i
>>> Chris at German Autosport in Berkeley told me I need to replace the
>>> upper
>>> rear control arm and the ball socket - there was visible movement
>>> possible in the left rear wheel , while car was racked.
>>>
>>> I have the Bentley Manual. I have replaced control arms on an E28
>>> and an E34. This job does not look too bad given all the special tools
>>> -- including the spring compressor
>>>
>>> 33 2 301
>>> 33 2 302
>>> 33 2 303
>>> 33 2 304
>>> 33 2 305
>>> 33 2 306
>>>
>>> Questions:
>>>
>>> Do I need to compress the spring? THese tools are going to cost, if
>>> I can find them. I find no help at e39 DIY archives.
>>>
>>> Many Thanks
>>
>> If it's one of the top links on here then no, you don't, and I doubt
>> you do for anything else, although it might makes things a bit easier.
>>
>> http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...& hg=33&fg=30
>>
>>
> I am so very grateful for your reply adder1969. Thank you, thank you.

Dear adder1969,
I replaced the left rear control arm - upper. NO problem.
I am now totally stuck, in that I can not push out the ball
joint from the wheel bearing carrier. I took off the snap ring
but can not push out the ball joint. I have used heat
and gobs of penetrating oil. It is a California car.
The ball joint extractor that I rented is intended for
american cars and does not fit well.

I am talking about part #2 in the link you sent
BALL JOINT 2 33326767748 $51.89
The Bentley Manual page 330-21 indicates that I need the
following parts to remove this ball joint:
33 4 191
33 4 192
33 4 193
33 3 333
On page 330-3 of the Bentley this combination of
tools is referred to as "Support tube set"
I am new to this, but I expected
the necessary tools to be the listing at the top
of the same page, namely

"Rubber bushing removal tools set"
33 3 331
33 3 332
33 3 333
33 3 334

At baumtools.com I find
B334191 Rear Axle Carrier Ball Joint Kit for $300

I have pushed the center shaft of the ball joint toward the center of the
swing arm, that is toward the front of the car, and now
the integral link, that is part #4 in the link you sent
me does not mate well. I can not see getting this back
together even for a flat bed.

Can you please advise me. Thanks again. Mark

mark barron wrote:
> mark barron wrote:
>> adder1969 wrote:
>>> On Mar 23, 3:02 pm, mark barron > wrote:
>>>> e39 2001 530i
>>>> Chris at German Autosport in Berkeley told me I need to replace the
>>>> upper
>>>> rear control arm and the ball socket - there was visible movement
>>>> possible in the left rear wheel , while car was racked.
>>>>
>>>> I have the Bentley Manual. I have replaced control arms on an E28
>>>> and an E34. This job does not look too bad given all the special tools
>>>> -- including the spring compressor
>>>>
>>>> 33 2 301
>>>> 33 2 302
>>>> 33 2 303
>>>> 33 2 304
>>>> 33 2 305
>>>> 33 2 306
>>>>
>>>> Questions:
>>>>
>>>> Do I need to compress the spring? THese tools are going to cost, if
>>>> I can find them. I find no help at e39 DIY archives.
>>>>
>>>> Many Thanks
>>>
>>> If it's one of the top links on here then no, you don't, and I doubt
>>> you do for anything else, although it might makes things a bit easier.
>>>
>>> http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...& hg=33&fg=30
>>>
>>>
>> I am so very grateful for your reply adder1969. Thank you, thank you.
>
> Dear adder1969,
> I replaced the left rear control arm - upper. NO problem.
> I am now totally stuck, in that I can not push out the ball
> joint from the wheel bearing carrier. I took off the snap ring
> but can not push out the ball joint. I have used heat
> and gobs of penetrating oil. It is a California car.
> The ball joint extractor that I rented is intended for
> american cars and does not fit well.
>
> I am talking about part #2 in the link you sent
> BALL JOINT 2 33326767748 $51.89
> The Bentley Manual page 330-21 indicates that I need the
> following parts to remove this ball joint:
> 33 4 191
> 33 4 192
> 33 4 193
> 33 3 333
> On page 330-3 of the Bentley this combination of
> tools is referred to as "Support tube set"
> I am new to this, but I expected
> the necessary tools to be the listing at the top
> of the same page, namely
>
> "Rubber bushing removal tools set"
> 33 3 331
> 33 3 332
> 33 3 333
> 33 3 334
>
> At baumtools.com I find
> B334191 Rear Axle Carrier Ball Joint Kit for $300
>
> I have pushed the center shaft of the ball joint toward the center of the
> swing arm, that is toward the front of the car, and now
> the integral link, that is part #4 in the link you sent
> me does not mate well. I can not see getting this back
> together even for a flat bed.
>
> Can you please advise me. Thanks again. Mark

I used more heat combined with a hand held steel cylinder
and a hammmer to knock it out! More heat later together
with 20 minutes in the freezer permitted the new BJ
to slide in by hand.

On Mar 25, 11:29 pm, mark barron > wrote:
> mark barron wrote:
> > mark barron wrote:
> >> adder1969 wrote:
> >>> On Mar 23, 3:02 pm, mark barron > wrote:
> >>>> e39 2001 530i
> >>>> Chris at German Autosport in Berkeley told me I need to replace the
> >>>> upper
> >>>> rear control arm and the ball socket - there was visible movement
> >>>> possible in the left rear wheel , while car was racked.
>
> >>>> I have the Bentley Manual. I have replaced control arms on an E28
> >>>> and an E34. This job does not look too bad given all the special tools
> >>>> -- including the spring compressor
>
> >>>> 33 2 301
> >>>> 33 2 302
> >>>> 33 2 303
> >>>> 33 2 304
> >>>> 33 2 305
> >>>> 33 2 306
>
> >>>> Questions:
>
> >>>> Do I need to compress the spring? THese tools are going to cost, if
> >>>> I can find them. I find no help at e39 DIY archives.
>
> >>>> Many Thanks
>
> >>> If it's one of the top links on here then no, you don't, and I doubt
> >>> you do for anything else, although it might makes things a bit easier.
>
> >>>http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...id=47587&btnr=...
>
> >> I am so very grateful for your reply adder1969. Thank you, thank you.
>
> > Dear adder1969,
> > I replaced the left rear control arm - upper. NO problem.
> > I am now totally stuck, in that I can not push out the ball
> > joint from the wheel bearing carrier. I took off the snap ring
> > but can not push out the ball joint. I have used heat
> > and gobs of penetrating oil. It is a California car.
> > The ball joint extractor that I rented is intended for
> > american cars and does not fit well.
>
> > I am talking about part #2 in the link you sent
> > BALL JOINT 2 33326767748 $51.89
> > The Bentley Manual page 330-21 indicates that I need the
> > following parts to remove this ball joint:
> > 33 4 191
> > 33 4 192
> > 33 4 193
> > 33 3 333
> > On page 330-3 of the Bentley this combination of
> > tools is referred to as "Support tube set"
> > I am new to this, but I expected
> > the necessary tools to be the listing at the top
> > of the same page, namely
>
> > "Rubber bushing removal tools set"
> > 33 3 331
> > 33 3 332
> > 33 3 333
> > 33 3 334
>
> > At baumtools.com I find
> > B334191 Rear Axle Carrier Ball Joint Kit for $300
>
> > I have pushed the center shaft of the ball joint toward the center of the
> > swing arm, that is toward the front of the car, and now
> > the integral link, that is part #4 in the link you sent
> > me does not mate well. I can not see getting this back
> > together even for a flat bed.
>
> > Can you please advise me. Thanks again. Mark
>
> I used more heat combined with a hand held steel cylinder
> and a hammmer to knock it out! More heat later together
> with 20 minutes in the freezer permitted the new BJ
> to slide in by hand.-


The propblem I had with mine was that all the nuts and threads were
rusted and I had to drill off most of the bolts etc. Took about 10
times longer to disassemble than to assemble.