Battery terminals

HLS wrote:
>
> "Old Wolf" > wrote in message
> ...
>> On Jul 13, 4:31 am, Mike Romain > wrote:
>>> I think the reason your battery was flat involves that big spark you
>>> saw. That indicates a large draw on the battery. There should only be
>>> a small crackle when the post tightens up, not a chunk blowing arc.
>>
>> I recharged the battery and tested with an ammeter before
>> connecting the negative lead, and it showed 600mA being
>> drawn. I believe this is quite high (my other car of the same
>> manufacturer and similar year only draws 200mA). I might
>> have to take it to an electrician to get it checked out.
>>
>> (I googled and it suggested doing voltage drop testing on
>> the alternator, but my alternator is in an awkward place).
>>
>>> I use dielectric grease over my terminals to help keep corrosion down.
>>
>> Right, so you apply that to the terminals before connecting
>> them?
>
> 600 milliamperes is far too high for quiescent residual current. Now,
> when you
> first connect the battery, some systems may temporarily draw increased
> levels
> of current but they should quickly settle down. Normally you should not
> draw
> more than 30-40 ma, or a little higher, at steady state with everything
> turned off.
>
> The 600 ma level is not acceptable if it stays that way.
>
> You can slather the terminals with dielectric grease before you connect
> them.
> You can give them a heavy coating after you connect them, but you will not
> get the same level of protection.

I don't mind slathering on dielectric (non conductive) grease to push on
connectors because they scratch a connection, but think lead on lead is
the best for battery posts.

Just my $0.02,

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com

"Mike Romain" > wrote in message news:487b5a17$0$19824
> I don't mind slathering on dielectric (non conductive) grease to push on
> connectors because they scratch a connection, but think lead on lead is
> the best for battery posts.
>
> Just my $0.02,

Ive done it both ways...Dielectric greases do not conduct, but with a tight
terminal
there is plenty of lead to lead contact. The lead oxides and other lead
compounds
which form due to corrosion can be deep and nonconductive, and that is what
I
want to suppress.

I believe I get better protection when I add it to the total terminal, but
would not
argue the concept.

HLS wrote:
>
> "Mike Romain" > wrote in message news:487b5a17$0$19824
>> I don't mind slathering on dielectric (non conductive) grease to push on
>> connectors because they scratch a connection, but think lead on lead is
>> the best for battery posts.
>>
>> Just my $0.02,
>
> Ive done it both ways...Dielectric greases do not conduct, but with a
> tight terminal
> there is plenty of lead to lead contact. The lead oxides and other lead
> compounds
> which form due to corrosion can be deep and nonconductive, and that is
> what I
> want to suppress.
>
> I believe I get better protection when I add it to the total terminal,
> but would not
> argue the concept.

That would imply both ways work OK.

Have you had any luck with those felt pads that go on top of the battery
over each post like a large washer that are supposed to help?

I have used them, but the car didn't outlast them, it died first.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com