Starter problems, 350 to 400 turbo

I have put in 7 starters on my 383 chev engine in a 74 vette. I started
having starter problems with previous emgine (stock 350) and had engine
builder build a 383 for a little more go, etc. Since I got the motor in
(new flex plate) I have put in 7 starters ranging from a new delco remy
conventional starter to 3 hi torque small size starters.

Each starter lasts 3 or 4 starts, makes terrible grinding noises, and now
there is a few metal slivers on the ring gear. When a freind starts car
and I observe starter it seems that drive comes out OK, but when extended,
it does not make contact with ring gear, barely touches it, etc.

adding a spacer would make it worse as it would move starter down and away
from ring geat.

Ideas anyone, I am in need and about $500 out of pocket now. Ple4ase
answer to me at if possible

flyboyf102 wrote:
> I have put in 7 starters on my 383 chev engine in a 74 vette. I started
> having starter problems with previous emgine (stock 350) and had engine
> builder build a 383 for a little more go, etc. Since I got the motor in
> (new flex plate) I have put in 7 starters ranging from a new delco remy
> conventional starter to 3 hi torque small size starters.
>
> Each starter lasts 3 or 4 starts, makes terrible grinding noises, and now
> there is a few metal slivers on the ring gear. When a freind starts car
> and I observe starter it seems that drive comes out OK, but when extended,
> it does not make contact with ring gear, barely touches it, etc.
>
> adding a spacer would make it worse as it would move starter down and away
> from ring geat.
>
> Ideas anyone, I am in need and about $500 out of pocket now. Ple4ase
> answer to me at if possible
>
You might check your engine & starter against this chart:

http://www.gmpartsdepot.com/sb_flywheel_chart.html

There are starter shims available. I suggest you remove all cover pans, put
the starter on, and observe it engaging the flywheel from behind. You may
have to pull the transmission or engine so that you can. Then shim inner
or outer bolts until it engages correctly. I would suggest the outer first
as that should move the starter in. Shimming both only moves the starter
further away.

Check your flywheel. You may have one slightly undersized, especially if
the previous starters have been grinding the teeth off.

A possibility is that your builder align bored the mains and so the crank
now sits higher in the block. If so, you may have to have the starter
machined slightly on the mounting pad to raise it up enough to again align
with the center of the flywheel. However, shimming will probably do it for
you. Machining should be the last thing to try, as it is the most
expensive, and your starter will be something not easily replaced if that
ever is needed in the future.

A lot of work, yes, but what is your alternative? Sit and watch the car in
your garage?



"flyboyf102" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> I have put in 7 starters on my 383 chev engine in a 74 vette. I started
> having starter problems with previous emgine (stock 350) and had engine
> builder build a 383 for a little more go, etc. Since I got the motor in
> (new flex plate) I have put in 7 starters ranging from a new delco remy
> conventional starter to 3 hi torque small size starters.
>
> Each starter lasts 3 or 4 starts, makes terrible grinding noises, and now
> there is a few metal slivers on the ring gear. When a freind starts car
> and I observe starter it seems that drive comes out OK, but when extended,
> it does not make contact with ring gear, barely touches it, etc.
>
> adding a spacer would make it worse as it would move starter down and away
> from ring geat.
>
> Ideas anyone, I am in need and about $500 out of pocket now. Ple4ase
> answer to me at if possible
>

Thanks tom, already tryed to machine face of starter, took .080 off and it
did not make any diff. I set starter before installing engine and seemed
to work OK. Thanks for info and I am going to try to shim one bolt and
see what happens.