Will "cupped" tires wear back to normal if bad shocks are replaced?

Turns out I have bad shocks, and my tires are cupped pretty bad on the
inside. "Pretty bad" means they are very noisy and at higher speeds
the vehicle becomes a little unstable (probably exacerbated by the bad
shocks).

So if I were to replace all 4 shocks, check the alignment, and
continue to rotate the tires regularly, will they get any better?

Or are they now ruined?

Thanks.

-ph

phaeton wrote:
> Turns out I have bad shocks, and my tires are cupped pretty bad on the
> inside. "Pretty bad" means they are very noisy and at higher speeds
> the vehicle becomes a little unstable (probably exacerbated by the bad
> shocks).
>
> So if I were to replace all 4 shocks, check the alignment, and
> continue to rotate the tires regularly, will they get any better?
>
> Or are they now ruined?
>
> Thanks.
>
> -ph

Pretty much what you have is what you will have.

--
Steve W.

Cupped tires will not ever wear back to normal, rubber is rubber.Those
tires will do nothing but continue to wear on down.
cuhulin

> wrote in message
...
> Cupped tires will not ever wear back to normal, rubber is rubber.Those
> tires will do nothing but continue to wear on down.
> cuhulin
>
Only hope is to have the tires trued. True, it may shave much *good
tread*, but ultimately you should get more total miles of service--that is
*IF* the cups have not cupped so deeply that it would take truing too close
to the wear bars. Very much similar to turning a rotor to remove grooves,
completely--may be better to leave a portion of that groove. One
difference, tho', the remaining portion of a trimmed flat spot usually will
immediately begin to wear flatter-and-deeper! s
*One note to add: I have used in the past a buffing method of truing
tires, which in my opinion is superior to traditional "blade-truing". Two
reasons: one is the buffing wheel tends to give a much better continuous
removal pattern than a blade, just by nature. Second is how often have you
seen the tech set up the blade-truer to properly follow the true profile of
the tire and allow it to self-power, as intended by its mfg? Many if not
most approach the tire w/the truer, spin the tire, and then manually crank
the depth of cut AND the contour they deem appropriate AND the speed of
travel across the tread--this contour continuously variable both in speed of
"crank-across" and perceived profile: must be they imagine it to be faster.
Doing so could result in a rough, huge, screw thread around the
circumference!*

wrote:
> Cupped tires will not ever wear back to normal, rubber is rubber.Those
> tires will do nothing but continue to wear on down.
> cuhulin
>


.....and not only that, the pounding will destroy your wheel
bearings, if you don't correct the problem soon enough

On May 30, 10:05*pm, "sdlomi2" > wrote:
> > wrote in message
>
> ...> Cupped tires will not ever wear back to normal, rubber is rubber.Those
> > tires will do nothing but continue to wear on down.
> > cuhulin
>
> * * Only hope is to have the tires trued. *True, it may shave much *good
> tread*, but ultimately you should get more total miles of service--that is
> *IF* the cups have not cupped so deeply that it would take truing too close
> to the wear bars. *Very much similar to turning a rotor to remove grooves,
> completely--may be better to leave a portion of that groove. *One
> difference, tho', the remaining portion of a trimmed flat spot usually will
> immediately begin to wear flatter-and-deeper! *s
> * * *One note to add: I have used in the past a buffing method of truing
> tires, which in my opinion is superior to traditional "blade-truing". *Two
> reasons: one is the buffing wheel tends to give a much better continuous
> removal pattern than a blade, just by nature. *Second is how often have you
> seen the tech set up the blade-truer to properly follow the true profile of
> the tire and allow it to self-power, as intended by its mfg? *Many if not
> most approach the tire w/the truer, spin the tire, and then manually crank
> the depth of cut AND the contour they deem appropriate AND the speed of
> travel across the tread--this contour continuously variable both in speed of
> "crank-across" and perceived profile: must be they imagine it to be faster..
> Doing so could result in a rough, huge, screw thread around the
> circumference!*
_____________
True dat!!

True dem tahrs in da RECYCLIN' DUMPSTEH!!

Truin' tahs is da dumbist thing ahh heared since that son o' George
got in the Whaat-House!!!

On May 30, 5:05*pm, phaeton > wrote:
> Turns out I have bad shocks, and my tires are cupped pretty bad on the
> inside. *"Pretty bad" means they are very noisy and at higher speeds
> the vehicle becomes a little unstable (probably exacerbated by the bad
> shocks).
>
> So if I were to replace all 4 shocks, check the alignment, and
> continue to rotate the tires regularly, will they get any better?
>
> Or are they now ruined?
>
> Thanks.
>
> -ph

In a word no. They will not magically return to a perfect rire over
time. They will continue to ride like a washboard road. Just replace
them.

Thanks everyone.

I know I "shoulda known" but well... it appears I'm learning this one
the hard way.

-ph

phaeton wrote:
> Turns out I have bad shocks, and my tires are cupped pretty bad on the
> inside. "Pretty bad" means they are very noisy and at higher speeds
> the vehicle becomes a little unstable (probably exacerbated by the bad
> shocks).
>
> So if I were to replace all 4 shocks, check the alignment, and
> continue to rotate the tires regularly, will they get any better?
>
> Or are they now ruined?
>
> Thanks.
>
> -ph

The cupping that exists will continue to "creep" around the tire. IN
other words, the current high spots will wear down, but not
symmetrically so that the highest spots will slowly march around the
tire. It won't ever get back to a normal wear pattern, although it might
get slightly better than it is. Worst yet, it will continue to bounce
the wheels, putting a lot of wear on your new suspension components.

Or you could put 'em on the drive axle and do a few NASCAR/IRL style
victory burnouts to "round 'em down."

On Jun 2, 3:31 pm, Steve > wrote:

>
> Or you could put 'em on the drive axle and do a few NASCAR/IRL style
> victory burnouts to "round 'em down."

lol. As tempting as that sounds, I don't think the 109hp of my 2.5L
is up to the task.

I am going to replace the shocks and buy four new tires. These are
Sam's Club Goodyear Wrangler ATD2s. I received them as a gift from a
well-meaning and (at the time) kind and caring (now ex-) girlfriend,
who was concerned about my OEM Firestone Wilderness ATs. The
Firestones were great (recall bull**** aside) and I they were replaced
at 89K miles. They would have made it to 100K for sure, but were dry-
rotten all to hell.

I would normally just go to a real tire shop, but since someone else
was buying the tires out of the kindness of her now black and evil
heart, I accepted the gift of four new tires. Unfortunately these
Wranglers are complete garbage in just about every way that a tire can
be. I also hate that they can only be balanced or rotated by Sam's
Club- they explicitly state that if anyone else touches them the
warranty is void.

So... anyone got any experience with Dayton tires? They're made by
Firestone, right?

Thanks

-ph