Will "cupped" tires wear back to normal if bad shocks are replaced?

Do some figure 8 burn outs with those cupped tires.Smoke em!
cuhulin

phaeton wrote:
> On Jun 2, 3:31 pm, Steve > wrote:
>
>> Or you could put 'em on the drive axle and do a few NASCAR/IRL style
>> victory burnouts to "round 'em down."
>
> lol. As tempting as that sounds, I don't think the 109hp of my 2.5L
> is up to the task.

Probably not ;-)

>
> I would normally just go to a real tire shop, but since someone else
> was buying the tires out of the kindness of her now black and evil
> heart, I accepted the gift of four new tires. Unfortunately these
> Wranglers are complete garbage in just about every way that a tire can
> be.

I've never had a Goodyear tire that I could stand. They're a huge tire
company and sell bazillions, so *somebody* has to like them, but every
time I've had a Goodyear tire, I've replaced it with a similar class of
tire from another brand that has been cheaper and better in every way.

>
> So... anyone got any experience with Dayton tires? They're made by
> Firestone, right?

Tire company ownership is about as complicated as auto manufacturer
ownership these days, and I have no idea bout Dayton. Firestone itself
is owned by Bridgestone now.

Steve wrote:
> I've never had a Goodyear tire that I could stand. They're a huge tire
> company and sell bazillions, so *somebody* has to like them, but every
> time I've had a Goodyear tire, I've replaced it with a similar class of
> tire from another brand that has been cheaper and better in every way.

To each his own. Some years ago I bought the best Firestones I could get
for my Renault Alliance, and they were so bad after the Goodyears that
shipped with the car that I put the 48,000-mile Goodyears back within 100
miles. (More accurately, split them between the drive wheels of two
Alliances and put the slippery, noisy, bouncy, crappy Firestones on the
rear.)

Nothing but Goodyears for me since.

Got a friend who prefers Michelin, but he won't admit he's had more
blowouts than a man should have. (I once had one on an unknown brand tire
of unknown mileage/usage on my 1960 Pontiac.)

--
Britney Spears' Guide to Semiconductor Physics
<http://britneyspears.ac/lasers.htm>

On May 30, 10:05*pm, "sdlomi2" > wrote:
> > wrote in message
>
> ...> Cupped tires will not ever wear back to normal, rubber is rubber.Those
> > tires will do nothing but continue to wear on down.
> > cuhulin
>
> * * Only hope is to have the tires trued. *True, it may shave much *good
> tread*, but ultimately you should get more total miles of service--that is
> *IF* the cups have not cupped so deeply that it would take truing too close
> to the wear bars. *Very much similar to turning a rotor to remove grooves,
> completely--may be better to leave a portion of that groove. *One
> difference, tho', the remaining portion of a trimmed flat spot usually will
> immediately begin to wear flatter-and-deeper! *s
> * * *One note to add: I have used in the past a buffing method of truing
> tires, which in my opinion is superior to traditional "blade-truing". *Two
> reasons: one is the buffing wheel tends to give a much better continuous
> removal pattern than a blade, just by nature. *Second is how often have you
> seen the tech set up the blade-truer to properly follow the true profile of
> the tire and allow it to self-power, as intended by its mfg? *Many if not
> most approach the tire w/the truer, spin the tire, and then manually crank
> the depth of cut AND the contour they deem appropriate AND the speed of
> travel across the tread--this contour continuously variable both in speed of
> "crank-across" and perceived profile: must be they imagine it to be faster..
> Doing so could result in a rough, huge, screw thread around the
> circumference!*

Does anyone still do this? I would have no idea where to go if I
actually wanted to have this done.

nate

So went to a real tire shop. I bought 4 new Monroe Reflex shocks, and
4 new Dayton Timberline tires. My truck sure seems to drive
differently. The most noticeable difference is that the stopping
distance is much shorter now. I guess that means the old shocks were
letting the wheels bounce around waaay too much.

However, at low speeds I'm noticing a really intense "jiggling"
sensation. It seems to settle down quite a bit at highway speeds, but
around the 30-to-40 range it feels like I'm driving on a badly
washboarded road.

Could it be that the shocks are so new and stiff that the tires
themselves are compressing and bouncing excessively at each bump? If
that is the case, the shocks will 'loosen up' in a couple hundred
miles and all will be well, right?

An interesting thing, is that even at 35psi these tires look really
low in the front.


I'm trying to find a nice, smooth, lonely road to drive along at
different speeds, but around here all the roads are still wrecked by
the snowplow.


Thanks.

-ph

On 05/30/2008 10:05 PM, sdlomi2 wrote:
> > wrote in message
> ...
>> Cupped tires will not ever wear back to normal, rubber is rubber.Those
>> tires will do nothing but continue to wear on down.
>> cuhulin
>>
> Only hope is to have the tires trued. True, it may shave much *good
> tread*, but ultimately you should get more total miles of service--that is
> *IF* the cups have not cupped so deeply that it would take truing too close
> to the wear bars. Very much similar to turning a rotor to remove grooves,
> completely--may be better to leave a portion of that groove. One
> difference, tho', the remaining portion of a trimmed flat spot usually will
> immediately begin to wear flatter-and-deeper! s
> *One note to add: I have used in the past a buffing method of truing
> tires, which in my opinion is superior to traditional "blade-truing". Two
> reasons: one is the buffing wheel tends to give a much better continuous
> removal pattern than a blade, just by nature. Second is how often have you
> seen the tech set up the blade-truer to properly follow the true profile of
> the tire and allow it to self-power, as intended by its mfg? Many if not
> most approach the tire w/the truer, spin the tire, and then manually crank
> the depth of cut AND the contour they deem appropriate AND the speed of
> travel across the tread--this contour continuously variable both in speed of
> "crank-across" and perceived profile: must be they imagine it to be faster.
> Doing so could result in a rough, huge, screw thread around the
> circumference!*
>
>

Does anyone actually shave tires anymore, save for race-centric places
that will take DOT-legal race tires down to "race depth" for you? I
don't know that I've ever seen that service offered at any normal tire
store.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"Nate Nagel" > wrote in message
...
> On 05/30/2008 10:05 PM, sdlomi2 wrote:
>> > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Cupped tires will not ever wear back to normal, rubber is rubber.Those
>>> tires will do nothing but continue to wear on down.
>>> cuhulin
>>>
>> Only hope is to have the tires trued. True, it may shave much *good
>> tread*, but ultimately you should get more total miles of service--that
>> is
>> *IF* the cups have not cupped so deeply that it would take truing too
>> close
>> to the wear bars. Very much similar to turning a rotor to remove
>> grooves,
>> completely--may be better to leave a portion of that groove. One
>> difference, tho', the remaining portion of a trimmed flat spot usually
>> will
>> immediately begin to wear flatter-and-deeper! s
>> *One note to add: I have used in the past a buffing method of truing
>> tires, which in my opinion is superior to traditional "blade-truing".
>> Two
>> reasons: one is the buffing wheel tends to give a much better continuous
>> removal pattern than a blade, just by nature. Second is how often have
>> you
>> seen the tech set up the blade-truer to properly follow the true profile
>> of
>> the tire and allow it to self-power, as intended by its mfg? Many if not
>> most approach the tire w/the truer, spin the tire, and then manually
>> crank
>> the depth of cut AND the contour they deem appropriate AND the speed of
>> travel across the tread--this contour continuously variable both in speed
>> of
>> "crank-across" and perceived profile: must be they imagine it to be
>> faster.
>> Doing so could result in a rough, huge, screw thread around the
>> circumference!*
>>
>>
>
> Does anyone actually shave tires anymore, save for race-centric places
> that will take DOT-legal race tires down to "race depth" for you? I don't
> know that I've ever seen that service offered at any normal tire store.
>
> nate
>
Tire Rack has been doing it in the past. I guess they still do.
Siping is done at some Discount Tire places.

If they were mine, and they still were safe to use, I might move them
to the back wheels so I wouldnt feel it too much. I am near fanatical
about keeping good tires on a car.