Galvanized conduit or iron pipe from the plumbing section as abreaker bar extender?

Any reason why I'd want to pick one vs the other to use as a breaker
bar extender?
I'm leaning towards the iron pipe, but only because I can I an buy it
in a 4 ft or 6 ft lengths in the plumbing section. The conduit is
only available in 10ft sections, and I don't need a breaker bar
extener that long.

zzyzzx wrote:
> Any reason why I'd want to pick one vs the other to use as a breaker
> bar extender?
> I'm leaning towards the iron pipe, but only because I can I an buy it
> in a 4 ft or 6 ft lengths in the plumbing section. The conduit is
> only available in 10ft sections, and I don't need a breaker bar
> extener that long.

Conduit isn't strong enough, it will peel open at the bottom end. Been
there, tried that. I have a 5' chunk of iron pipe.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com

On Jul 31, 11:50*am, Mike Romain > wrote:
> zzyzzx wrote:
> > Any reason why I'd want to pick one vs the other to use as a breaker
> > bar extender?
> > I'm leaning towards the iron pipe, but only because I can I an buy it
> > in a 4 ft or 6 ft lengths in the plumbing section. *The conduit is
> > only available in 10ft sections, and I don't need a breaker bar
> > extener that long.
>
> Conduit isn't strong enough, it will peel open at the bottom end. *Been
> there, tried that. *I have a 5' chunk of iron pipe.

i'm sure you both know this but this will void any warranty on your
breaker bar. My 1/2" breaker bar has a slight twist in it because of
such activites My 3/4" one seems to be OK so far Just inspect
your tools well before using Excessive Force (tm) on them; you don't
want to lose an eye when, say, the pin holding the square drive to the
bar itself shatters.

nate

zzyzzx > wrote in news:451d18dc-4b40-4c5d-8cf7-
:

> Any reason why I'd want to pick one vs the other to use as a breaker
> bar extender?
> I'm leaning towards the iron pipe, but only because I can I an buy it
> in a 4 ft or 6 ft lengths in the plumbing section. The conduit is
> only available in 10ft sections, and I don't need a breaker bar
> extener that long.



Like Mike says, conduit's too weak. Go with the iron pipe.

When you go to the hardware store, take your intended tool with you so you
can make sure it goes all the way into the iron pipe, all the way down to
the square drive end. Also, some pipecutting equipment puts an internal
burr on the pipe, which necks it down considerably. You may have to file or
hacksaw that off to get the tool to fit.

--
Tegger

The iron pipe is stronger. The part about fit is important. The pipe
should not be too loose a fit because you will get an extreme angle
that takes more room to swing. Depending on what you are doing you
probably don't need too much pipe. I like one that can be stored on
the breaker bar and just come to the end so it doesn't take up a lot
of room. This is usually enough. If you really need more force then
the 3/4 bar will be needed. Next, of course, is a 1 inch bar. If you
get that far along maybe you can sell tickets.

I've broken several bars. They usually fracture or twist and need to
be thrown away. Once I did have one snap apart at the head in use but
I still don't think there is much danger. Just plan for this. It can
happen.

I returned a Snap On bar that was really old. It had been welded
together by someone and they gave me a new modern one. Still have it.

disston

"zzyzzx" > wrote in message
...
> Any reason why I'd want to pick one vs the other to use as a breaker
> bar extender?
> I'm leaning towards the iron pipe, but only because I can I an buy it
> in a 4 ft or 6 ft lengths in the plumbing section. The conduit is
> only available in 10ft sections, and I don't need a breaker bar
> extener that long.

At least as important as the material is the pipe schedule - wall thickness.
Use the following chart to help you properly size the ID of the pipe to the
OD of your tool

http://www.rshydro.co.uk/pipe-schedule.shtml

Any piece of pipe that is long enough and big enough is what I use for a
cheater pipe.I keep a piece of four feet long galvanized (because it is
a piece of pipe I already had laying around) cheater pipe in my van for
my four way lug nut wrench, for lug nuts that the tire shops put on
there too tight.I leep a smaller piece of cheater pipe in one of my tool
boxes for my wrenches, for nuts and bolts that are too tight.Cheater
pipes are some of the best tools ever.So are big hammers and crowbars.
cuhulin

i use the end of my floor jack handle

Tegger wrote:

> zzyzzx > wrote in news:451d18dc-4b40-4c5d-8cf7-
> :
>
> > Any reason why I'd want to pick one vs the other to use as a breaker
> > bar extender?
> > I'm leaning towards the iron pipe, but only because I can I an buy it
> > in a 4 ft or 6 ft lengths in the plumbing section. The conduit is
> > only available in 10ft sections, and I don't need a breaker bar
> > extener that long.
>
> Like Mike says, conduit's too weak. Go with the iron pipe.
>
> When you go to the hardware store, take your intended tool with you so you
> can make sure it goes all the way into the iron pipe, all the way down to
> the square drive end. Also, some pipecutting equipment puts an internal
> burr on the pipe, which necks it down considerably. You may have to file or
> hacksaw that off to get the tool to fit.
>
> --
> Tegger

The iron pipe I bought worked. I had no troube removing an axle nut
with it.

Thanks!