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#1
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Liquid in my air filter housing
Took the cover off my air filter housing today and discoverd about 1/2 cup of
milky white fluid in the housing and coating the air filter. I live in the mountains at 6500 ft with night time temps at 15-25 and days at 25-50. Just bought the 88 YJ with 155,000 on it. Am planning to do an HEI dist conversion, and put a MC2100 on it. I don't drive it much and it runs poorly enough that I start it and leave it running for awhile before driving across town (3 miles in either direction) I have only taken it on a couple of 2-3 hour, back dusty road drives. It stays on high idle for a long time 10-15 minutes and is hard to start if it doesn't sit long enough. There is no froth in the valve cover or on the cap, can't see any oil in the recovery bottle or water in the oil. I'm thinking with the short drives and long idle, or high idle times, I am picking up a lot of very moist air out of the exhaust and it is condensing in the air filter housing. Just a guess, what do you pros think? -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200612/1 |
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#2
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Liquid in my air filter housing
Disclaimer: The following post is in no way meant to help out, only
give you a quick chuckle. LoneGreyWolf via CarKB.com wrote: > Took the cover off my air filter housing today and discoverd about 1/2 cup of > milky white fluid in the housing and coating the air filter. LoneGrey: Your Engine stroked itself out.... |
#3
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Liquid in my air filter housing
> Took the cover off my air filter housing today and discoverd about 1/2 cup
of > milky white fluid in the housing and coating the air filter. Does it come back? Or was it just a one time thing? |
#4
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Liquid in my air filter housing
Someone else just had the same problem in a 258 YJ and after figuring
his PCV system was likely working ok, the diagnosis appeared to be a bad valve on the exhaust air tubes that connect into the middle of the air filter. Those valves can be eliminated from the system for a test by plugging the holes with wine corks. Seeing as you will be getting rid of or shutting off 'all' the pollution controls with your HEI and 2100, these exhaust tubes can be unhooked from the air filter and permanently blocked. On one that was broken, we blocked it down at the CAT with a large bolt that happened to fit the tube perfectly. And just an FYI for you. The stock Weber-Carter BBD on it can be made to behave quite nicely with a $20.00 carb kit and some tweaking, especially after the computer is taken out of the circuit. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) "LoneGreyWolf via CarKB.com" wrote: > > Took the cover off my air filter housing today and discoverd about 1/2 cup of > milky white fluid in the housing and coating the air filter. I live in the > mountains at 6500 ft with night time temps at 15-25 and days at 25-50. > Just bought the 88 YJ with 155,000 on it. Am planning to do an HEI dist > conversion, and put a MC2100 on it. > > I don't drive it much and it runs poorly enough that I start it and leave it > running for awhile before driving across town (3 miles in either direction) I > have only taken it on a couple of 2-3 hour, back dusty road drives. It stays > on high idle for a long time 10-15 minutes and is hard to start if it doesn't > sit long enough. > > There is no froth in the valve cover or on the cap, can't see any oil in the > recovery bottle or water in the oil. I'm thinking with the short drives and > long idle, or high idle times, I am picking up a lot of very moist air out of > the exhaust and it is condensing in the air filter housing. Just a guess, > what do you pros think? > > -- > Message posted via CarKB.com > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200612/1 |
#5
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Liquid in my air filter housing
For a longer lasting solution, rubber corks from a chemical supply house.
;^) It's funny; I used to work on automobiles full time in the seventies, right when the pollution controls all came out. After working on a few vehicles I figured, along with a lot of other mechanics, that the damn things didn't do anything except make the cars run more poorly and use more fuel. Except the PCV, of course, don't disconnect that. A big laugh was the attempt to use higher (numerically lower) gear ratios in an attempt to increase fuel mileage (kilometerage north of the border). The Dodge dealer where I worked did a healthy business in axle ratio changes, in order to restore a semblance of performance and economy to his customer's vehicles. Now with fuel injection this is all theoretically "better", but as Mike likes to say a properly tuned carburetor performs quite nicely too. Earle "Mike Romain" > wrote in message ... > Someone else just had the same problem in a 258 YJ and after figuring > his PCV system was likely working ok, the diagnosis appeared to be a bad > valve on the exhaust air tubes that connect into the middle of the air > filter. > > Those valves can be eliminated from the system for a test by plugging > the holes with wine corks. > > Seeing as you will be getting rid of or shutting off 'all' the pollution > controls with your HEI and 2100, these exhaust tubes can be unhooked > from the air filter and permanently blocked. On one that was broken, we > blocked it down at the CAT with a large bolt that happened to fit the > tube perfectly. > > And just an FYI for you. The stock Weber-Carter BBD on it can be made > to behave quite nicely with a $20.00 carb kit and some tweaking, > especially after the computer is taken out of the circuit. > > Mike > 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 > 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's > Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! > Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 > (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > > "LoneGreyWolf via CarKB.com" wrote: > > > > Took the cover off my air filter housing today and discoverd about 1/2 cup of > > milky white fluid in the housing and coating the air filter. I live in the > > mountains at 6500 ft with night time temps at 15-25 and days at 25-50. > > Just bought the 88 YJ with 155,000 on it. Am planning to do an HEI dist > > conversion, and put a MC2100 on it. > > > > I don't drive it much and it runs poorly enough that I start it and leave it > > running for awhile before driving across town (3 miles in either direction) I > > have only taken it on a couple of 2-3 hour, back dusty road drives. It stays > > on high idle for a long time 10-15 minutes and is hard to start if it doesn't > > sit long enough. > > > > There is no froth in the valve cover or on the cap, can't see any oil in the > > recovery bottle or water in the oil. I'm thinking with the short drives and > > long idle, or high idle times, I am picking up a lot of very moist air out of > > the exhaust and it is condensing in the air filter housing. Just a guess, > > what do you pros think? > > > > -- > > Message posted via CarKB.com > > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200612/1 |
#6
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Liquid in my air filter housing
Do any of you have the diagrams for the HEI upgrade? My Chilton book puts
the ignition control module where there is nothing. Picture the book gives doesn't look like anything under the hood of my 88 YJ. The "directions" the supplier sent are a watered down version of someone else's vague write up. The CJ5 and 7's the conversions were done on had way different wiring and connections. Any current, detailed write ups for an 88YJ withe the 258 6I would be very helpful. Earle Horton wrote: >For a longer lasting solution, rubber corks from a chemical supply house. >;^) > >It's funny; I used to work on automobiles full time in the seventies, right >when the pollution controls all came out. After working on a few vehicles I >figured, along with a lot of other mechanics, that the damn things didn't do >anything except make the cars run more poorly and use more fuel. Except the >PCV, of course, don't disconnect that. A big laugh was the attempt to use >higher (numerically lower) gear ratios in an attempt to increase fuel >mileage (kilometerage north of the border). The Dodge dealer where I worked >did a healthy business in axle ratio changes, in order to restore a >semblance of performance and economy to his customer's vehicles. > >Now with fuel injection this is all theoretically "better", but as Mike >likes to say a properly tuned carburetor performs quite nicely too. > >Earle > >> Someone else just had the same problem in a 258 YJ and after figuring >> his PCV system was likely working ok, the diagnosis appeared to be a bad >[quoted text clipped - 42 lines] >> > Message posted via CarKB.com >> > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200612/1 -- Message posted via CarKB.com http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200612/1 |
#7
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Liquid in my air filter housing
The Haynes CJ manual is the best one for the engine and under hood
wiring for the 258 YJ's. The ignition module is 'Waaaaaayyyyy' down under the washer bottle at the bottom of the fender skirt. Here is a good site for all things 258: http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm Here are some specifics about killing that Ford emissions cpmputer: http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm And: http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm I prefer to add two new wires when bypassing the computer by hooking the orange and purple wires at the ignition module directly to the orange and purple wires at the distributor rather than mess inside the harness. Especially in a YJ, because the colors in the harness are different than the CJ the article is written about. Here is an article on the HEI: http://www.geocities.com/jeeperaz/hei.htm Here is a 'great' article on getting that Weber-Carter BBD purring at idle: http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064 Hope some of this helps, Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) "LoneGreyWolf via CarKB.com" wrote: > > Do any of you have the diagrams for the HEI upgrade? My Chilton book puts > the ignition control module where there is nothing. Picture the book gives > doesn't look like anything under the hood of my 88 YJ. The "directions" the > supplier sent are a watered down version of someone else's vague write up. > The CJ5 and 7's the conversions were done on had way different wiring and > connections. Any current, detailed write ups for an 88YJ withe the 258 6I > would be very helpful. > > Earle Horton wrote: > >For a longer lasting solution, rubber corks from a chemical supply house. > >;^) > > > >It's funny; I used to work on automobiles full time in the seventies, right > >when the pollution controls all came out. After working on a few vehicles I > >figured, along with a lot of other mechanics, that the damn things didn't do > >anything except make the cars run more poorly and use more fuel. Except the > >PCV, of course, don't disconnect that. A big laugh was the attempt to use > >higher (numerically lower) gear ratios in an attempt to increase fuel > >mileage (kilometerage north of the border). The Dodge dealer where I worked > >did a healthy business in axle ratio changes, in order to restore a > >semblance of performance and economy to his customer's vehicles. > > > >Now with fuel injection this is all theoretically "better", but as Mike > >likes to say a properly tuned carburetor performs quite nicely too. > > > >Earle > > > >> Someone else just had the same problem in a 258 YJ and after figuring > >> his PCV system was likely working ok, the diagnosis appeared to be a bad > >[quoted text clipped - 42 lines] > >> > Message posted via CarKB.com > >> > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200612/1 > > -- > Message posted via CarKB.com > http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200612/1 |
#8
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Liquid in my air filter housing
> wrote in message ups.com... > Disclaimer: The following post is in no way meant to help out, only > give you a quick chuckle. > > LoneGreyWolf via CarKB.com wrote: > >> Took the cover off my air filter housing today and discoverd about 1/2 >> cup of >> milky white fluid in the housing and coating the air filter. > > > LoneGrey: > Your Engine stroked itself out.... OMG! ROFLMAO! |
#9
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Liquid in my air filter housing
Mike Romain wrote:
>The Haynes CJ manual is the best one for the engine and under hood >wiring for the 258 YJ's. > >The ignition module is 'Waaaaaayyyyy' down under the washer bottle at >the bottom of the fender skirt. > >Here is a good site for all things 258: >http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/list.htm > >Here are some specifics about killing that Ford emissions cpmputer: >http://home.sprynet.com/~dale02/ignmods.htm > >And: >http://www.off-road.com/jeep/jnutter1.htm > >I prefer to add two new wires when bypassing the computer by hooking the >orange and purple wires at the ignition module directly to the orange >and purple wires at the distributor rather than mess inside the >harness. Especially in a YJ, because the colors in the harness are >different than the CJ the article is written about. > >Here is an article on the HEI: >http://www.geocities.com/jeeperaz/hei.htm > >Here is a 'great' article on getting that Weber-Carter BBD purring at >idle: >http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/articl....jsp?id=277064 > >Hope some of this helps, > >Mike >86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 >88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's >Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! >Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2115147590 >(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page) > >> Do any of you have the diagrams for the HEI upgrade? My Chilton book puts >> the ignition control module where there is nothing. Picture the book gives >[quoted text clipped - 31 lines] >> Message posted via CarKB.com >> http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/jeep-cars/200612/1 I am amazed at all the stuff you guys know and have url's for. I do all the reading I can and never find the stuff you guys give me. One guy on another site gave the address to a gas tank supplier with a 28 gallon tank for my 88 YJ that will replace the 15. Comes with new sending unit and all mounting hardware for $183.00. A new skid plate is only $69 more. Best I could find was $700 and buy my own new sending unit for a 20g. Thanks guys. -- Message posted via http://www.carkb.com |
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