95 Neon

I have a 95 Neon SHOC with 112K miles. As to be expected with this
engine it has a Rod Knock. I have tried an oil enhanser and it seems
to help some what. Some times in the morning with a cold start it can
be pretty loud, it's not quite as loud after the motor warms up. Cash
is low right now and I have to get as much out of it as I can until I
can afford to get it fixed.

Can anyone suggest how to keep it running a little longer?
Would it be better to get the bearing fixed or would it be better to
rereplace the motor?

Thanks for any suggestions

Hi!
Are you sure it's not just lifter-tick ?
Cheerz..


>I have a 95 Neon SHOC with 112K miles. As to be expected with this
>engine it has a Rod Knock. I have tried an oil enhanser and it seems
>to help some what. Some times in the morning with a cold start it can
>be pretty loud, it's not quite as loud after the motor warms up. Cash
>is low right now and I have to get as much out of it as I can until I
>can afford to get it fixed.
>
>Can anyone suggest how to keep it running a little longer?
>Would it be better to get the bearing fixed or would it be better to
>rereplace the motor?
>
>Thanks for any suggestions

Hi!
Are you sure it's not just lifter-tick ?
Cheerz..


>I have a 95 Neon SHOC with 112K miles. As to be expected with this
>engine it has a Rod Knock. I have tried an oil enhanser and it seems
>to help some what. Some times in the morning with a cold start it can
>be pretty loud, it's not quite as loud after the motor warms up. Cash
>is low right now and I have to get as much out of it as I can until I
>can afford to get it fixed.
>
>Can anyone suggest how to keep it running a little longer?
>Would it be better to get the bearing fixed or would it be better to
>rereplace the motor?
>
>Thanks for any suggestions

No, It's rod KNOCK...


On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 08:11:53 +0200, Ponygurrrl
> wrote:

>Hi!
>Are you sure it's not just lifter-tick ?
>Cheerz..
>
>
>>I have a 95 Neon SHOC with 112K miles. As to be expected with this
>>engine it has a Rod Knock. I have tried an oil enhanser and it seems
>>to help some what. Some times in the morning with a cold start it can
>>be pretty loud, it's not quite as loud after the motor warms up. Cash
>>is low right now and I have to get as much out of it as I can until I
>>can afford to get it fixed.
>>
>>Can anyone suggest how to keep it running a little longer?
>>Would it be better to get the bearing fixed or would it be better to
>>rereplace the motor?
>>
>>Thanks for any suggestions

No, It's rod KNOCK...


On Wed, 02 Jun 2004 08:11:53 +0200, Ponygurrrl
> wrote:

>Hi!
>Are you sure it's not just lifter-tick ?
>Cheerz..
>
>
>>I have a 95 Neon SHOC with 112K miles. As to be expected with this
>>engine it has a Rod Knock. I have tried an oil enhanser and it seems
>>to help some what. Some times in the morning with a cold start it can
>>be pretty loud, it's not quite as loud after the motor warms up. Cash
>>is low right now and I have to get as much out of it as I can until I
>>can afford to get it fixed.
>>
>>Can anyone suggest how to keep it running a little longer?
>>Would it be better to get the bearing fixed or would it be better to
>>rereplace the motor?
>>
>>Thanks for any suggestions

On Mon, 31 May 2004 22:50:15 GMT, wrote:

>I have a 95 Neon SHOC with 112K miles. As to be expected with this
>engine it has a Rod Knock. I have tried an oil enhanser and it seems
>to help some what. Some times in the morning with a cold start it can
>be pretty loud, it's not quite as loud after the motor warms up. Cash
>is low right now and I have to get as much out of it as I can until I
>can afford to get it fixed.
>
>Can anyone suggest how to keep it running a little longer?
>Would it be better to get the bearing fixed or would it be better to
>rereplace the motor?
>
>Thanks for any suggestions

About the only thing you can do is to use heavier weight oil and/or
add an additive like STP.
This will be temporary and WHEN the rod bearing fails it will either
seize or break the rod.
This happened to me many years ago while driving a Metropolitan
(Austin A-40 engine, like a MGB).
The rod went right through the side of the block - goodbye engine.

Seems to me that the oil pan in that engine can be dropped pretty
easily. I'd be tempted to pull the pan and replace all the rod/main
bearings. I'd have to check the manual to see if mains can be replaced
without pulling the crank but the rods would be an easy change out.
Hever, if the crankshaft journal is scored (quite likely), the
crankshaft will have to be pulled and reground or replaced. The
engine would have to be pulled for that job. In that case, I'd
consider just dropping another engine in it if I planned to keep the
car.

If you have access to an old time mechanic who is willing to explore
such issues, I'd have him drop the oil pan and do some checks, then
make a decision.

BTW, this is pretty unusual.
I've got the same car/same engine with over 155k on it.
From what I've heard the bottom end (rods/mains) are overbuilt in this
engine and rarely fail.

Doug

On Mon, 31 May 2004 22:50:15 GMT, wrote:

>I have a 95 Neon SHOC with 112K miles. As to be expected with this
>engine it has a Rod Knock. I have tried an oil enhanser and it seems
>to help some what. Some times in the morning with a cold start it can
>be pretty loud, it's not quite as loud after the motor warms up. Cash
>is low right now and I have to get as much out of it as I can until I
>can afford to get it fixed.
>
>Can anyone suggest how to keep it running a little longer?
>Would it be better to get the bearing fixed or would it be better to
>rereplace the motor?
>
>Thanks for any suggestions

About the only thing you can do is to use heavier weight oil and/or
add an additive like STP.
This will be temporary and WHEN the rod bearing fails it will either
seize or break the rod.
This happened to me many years ago while driving a Metropolitan
(Austin A-40 engine, like a MGB).
The rod went right through the side of the block - goodbye engine.

Seems to me that the oil pan in that engine can be dropped pretty
easily. I'd be tempted to pull the pan and replace all the rod/main
bearings. I'd have to check the manual to see if mains can be replaced
without pulling the crank but the rods would be an easy change out.
Hever, if the crankshaft journal is scored (quite likely), the
crankshaft will have to be pulled and reground or replaced. The
engine would have to be pulled for that job. In that case, I'd
consider just dropping another engine in it if I planned to keep the
car.

If you have access to an old time mechanic who is willing to explore
such issues, I'd have him drop the oil pan and do some checks, then
make a decision.

BTW, this is pretty unusual.
I've got the same car/same engine with over 155k on it.
From what I've heard the bottom end (rods/mains) are overbuilt in this
engine and rarely fail.

Doug