Question about front axle on Cherokee Sport

Are the front axles and drive shaft "engaged" (ie: being turned by the
front wheels) while in 2WD?

If so, is it a worthwhile investment, *gas milage wise*, to get a
setup that includes manual locking hubs?

TIA

PS: I've just finished my second full tank of gas.
The first one I was *trying* to get good milage and got 14.x MPG.
(A/C ON most of the time, little highway time.)
The second I was lead footing it all the time and got 13.x MPG.
(A/C OFF most of the time, a lot more highway time this time.)

I was a bit surprised. I thought I was going to hit single digits :/


I plan on installing a washable air filter (K&N or the one of the
other brands now available), and am thinking about replacing the
axle/xfr case fluids with "Royal Purple" lube. Anyone have experience
with this stuff?

I also found a tire size calc
(http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos)
that indicated that my oversized tires (235/75-15) cause my speedo to
read about 4% under actual.

Is the odometer affected to the same degree?

And, lastly <g>, I've lost my reference to this: My Cherokee is an XJ,
right?

(Again, TIA)

....

The answers to your questions depend on the year, and transfer case. If you
have "full time four wheel drive" aka SelecTrac, then your axles are engaged
all the time and there is nothing you can do about it. If you have "part
time four wheel drive" aka CommandTrac, then you may have a "passenger side
axle disconnect". With CommandTrac, you have "2H 4H N 4L" on the transfer
case shifter. With SelecTrac there is an additional selection. If you have
CommandTrac, look under the vehicle, at the middle of the passenger side
front axle tube, for a squarish box, that encloses a vacuum control. It
will have vacuum and electrical lines going to it. If you have this, then
one of your front axles is disconnected in two wheel drive. This keeps the
drive shaft from turning, but does not prevent all energy losses due to
friction.

There is a front locking hub kit, available for the Wranglers. If you have
the CommandTrac system, with or without the vacuum disconnect, then it
should fit your Cherokee, because they use essentially the same front axle.
Last year, I would have said that the cost was not worth it, but with the
price of fuel going up, and no end really in sight, who can say? If you are
interested in this conversion, look on the www.4wd.com web site for "Warn®
Front Lockout Hub Conversion Kit". The parts are about a thousand dollars,
plus new brake disks and the cost of labor. You will probably do a front
brake job too, while you are installing the conversion.

Earle

"noneyabusiness" > wrote in message
news
> Are the front axles and drive shaft "engaged" (ie: being turned by the
> front wheels) while in 2WD?
>
> If so, is it a worthwhile investment, *gas milage wise*, to get a
> setup that includes manual locking hubs?
>
> TIA
>
> PS: I've just finished my second full tank of gas.
> The first one I was *trying* to get good milage and got 14.x MPG.
> (A/C ON most of the time, little highway time.)
> The second I was lead footing it all the time and got 13.x MPG.
> (A/C OFF most of the time, a lot more highway time this time.)
>
> I was a bit surprised. I thought I was going to hit single digits :/
>
>
> I plan on installing a washable air filter (K&N or the one of the
> other brands now available), and am thinking about replacing the
> axle/xfr case fluids with "Royal Purple" lube. Anyone have experience
> with this stuff?
>
> I also found a tire size calc
> (http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos)
> that indicated that my oversized tires (235/75-15) cause my speedo to
> read about 4% under actual.
>
> Is the odometer affected to the same degree?
>
> And, lastly <g>, I've lost my reference to this: My Cherokee is an XJ,
> right?
>
> (Again, TIA)
>
> ...

Yes, the later model XJs and the TJs have the front propeller shaft
spinning all the time, no matter if you are in 4wd or not.
__________________________________________________ _________
tw

71 Bill Stroppe Baja Bronco
03 TJ Rubicon - Rubicon Express 4.5"
01 XJ Sport

There is a very fine line between "hobby" and "mental illness."
-- Dave Barry

Pronunciation: 'jEp
Function: noun
Date: 1940

Etymology: from g. p. (G= 'Government' P= '80 inch wheelbase')
A small general-purpose motor vehicle with 80-inch wheelbase,
1/4-ton capacity, and four-wheel drive used by the U.S. army in
World War II.

(Please remove the OBVIOUS to reply by email)
__________________________________________________ _________


noneyabusiness wrote:
> Are the front axles and drive shaft "engaged" (ie: being turned by the
> front wheels) while in 2WD?
>
> If so, is it a worthwhile investment, *gas milage wise*, to get a
> setup that includes manual locking hubs?
>
> TIA
>
> PS: I've just finished my second full tank of gas.
> The first one I was *trying* to get good milage and got 14.x MPG.
> (A/C ON most of the time, little highway time.)
> The second I was lead footing it all the time and got 13.x MPG.
> (A/C OFF most of the time, a lot more highway time this time.)
>
> I was a bit surprised. I thought I was going to hit single digits :/
>
>
> I plan on installing a washable air filter (K&N or the one of the
> other brands now available), and am thinking about replacing the
> axle/xfr case fluids with "Royal Purple" lube. Anyone have experience
> with this stuff?
>
> I also found a tire size calc
> (http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos)
> that indicated that my oversized tires (235/75-15) cause my speedo to
> read about 4% under actual.
>
> Is the odometer affected to the same degree?
>
> And, lastly <g>, I've lost my reference to this: My Cherokee is an XJ,
> right?
>
> (Again, TIA)
>
> ...

Yes, you have an XJ More information of Jeep models is available he
http://www.ajeepthing.com/models/jeep_models.asp

Well....depending on your driving route and habits you might get 14 mpg.
In strictly suburban driving I get 17 in my WJ, in general driving
(suburban, open road, highway) it goes up to about 20. At reasonable
highway speeds it will get 24. I've never driven it any real distance at 55
mph as driving that slowly is dangerous.

I am a strong proponent of Synthetic fluids, they have superior lubricating
and cleaning capacities, especially in extremes, but have never used any
Royal Purple Brand products.

I read/watched a few of the posted tests on Royal Purple's web-site and was
not impressed. The routine appears to be that several changes are made such
as fluids (+ a tune up) or fluids (+ new exhaust components) or thermal
imaging (+ a floor fan is running).

An honest test would only change the test fluids and not other factors that
are also known to increase engine power and decrease temperature.

As for K&N (& clones) filters you will find that people either swear by them
or swear at them, no one who uses them is indifferent.

You should be aware that K&N make more power by lowering the resistance in
the air intake just like the advertisements claim. What they don't tell you
is they have lower resistance because they only filter the very large
particles, all the fine ones (that get trapped by a paper filter) go right
through. I am sure someone will supply links to pix of K&N protected
engines.....


>
> PS: I've just finished my second full tank of gas.
> The first one I was *trying* to get good milage and got 14.x MPG.
> (A/C ON most of the time, little highway time.)
> The second I was lead footing it all the time and got 13.x MPG.
> (A/C OFF most of the time, a lot more highway time this time.)
>
> I was a bit surprised. I thought I was going to hit single digits :/
>
>
> I plan on installing a washable air filter (K&N or the one of the
> other brands now available), and am thinking about replacing the
> axle/xfr case fluids with "Royal Purple" lube. Anyone have experience
> with this stuff?
>

noneyabusiness wrote:
> The first one I was *trying* to get good milage and got 14.x MPG.
> (A/C ON most of the time, little highway time.)

Might be time to clean the gunk from your throttle body.

> I also found a tire size calc
> (http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos)
> that indicated that my oversized tires (235/75-15) cause my speedo to
> read about 4% under actual.
>
> Is the odometer affected to the same degree?

Yes, but the best test of exactly how much you are off is to clock
yourself on mile markers or a GPS. Depending on your model's
transmission ad diff gears, the 235s may actually be more 'on' than the
stock tires.

Steve
http://xjeep.dyndns.org

Thanks to everyone who replied so far.
I forgot to mention that it's a 95 Cherokee Sport with part-time 4WD,
the 4 speed auto trans and the 4.0L engine.

Another question:
I have a tape deck head unit (w/ JEEP on the tape door cover) and a
"sound bar" across the roof in the back (no speakers in the tailgate).
The front door speaker grills have JENSEN on the frame.
Are these after market or factory?

Also, does this head unit have a separate amp (One installer said it
would cost more to install a cd head unit because of this)?


On Thu, 10 Nov 2005 11:21:03 -0500, "Billy Ray"
> wrote:

>Yes, you have an XJ More information of Jeep models is available he
>http://www.ajeepthing.com/models/jeep_models.asp
>

This helped clear it up, thanks.

[snip]
>
>I am a strong proponent of Synthetic fluids, they have superior lubricating
>and cleaning capacities, especially in extremes, but have never used any
>Royal Purple Brand products.
>
>I read/watched a few of the posted tests on Royal Purple's web-site and was
>not impressed. The routine appears to be that several changes are made such
>as fluids (+ a tune up) or fluids (+ new exhaust components) or thermal
>imaging (+ a floor fan is running).
>
>An honest test would only change the test fluids and not other factors that
>are also known to increase engine power and decrease temperature.
>

I'm going to discuss it with my mechanic when I get a chance, but
since most synthetics *seem* to be around $10 a qt., I'll probably
flip a coin to decide which brand if I go with a synthetic (the local
parts store person also swears by synthetics).

>As for K&N (& clones) filters you will find that people either swear by them
>or swear at them, no one who uses them is indifferent.
>
>You should be aware that K&N make more power by lowering the resistance in
>the air intake just like the advertisements claim. What they don't tell you
>is they have lower resistance because they only filter the very large
>particles, all the fine ones (that get trapped by a paper filter) go right
>through. I am sure someone will supply links to pix of K&N protected
>engines.....

I've used a K&N air filter in my old Toyota pickup for most of the 15
years I drove it, and AFAIK it never caused any problems.

I already bought one for the Jeep since it was on sale ($10 off).

While in the store, I noticed that FRAM is selling an OILED *PAPER*
air filter for $12 ! I *almost* bought it.

>
[snip]

....

Where do you live? The reason I ask is that the name brand synthetics sell
for $4-$5 a quart here in the Cincinnati, Ohio area and as little as $3 when
on sale.


When I was in the auto-parts store last time to get filters for the WJ I
noticed that they carried paper filters that look to replace the K&N cone
'oiled" type. I guess the filter companies want to play both sides of the
street.


>>
>
> I'm going to discuss it with my mechanic when I get a chance, but
> since most synthetics *seem* to be around $10 a qt., I'll probably
> flip a coin to decide which brand if I go with a synthetic (the local
> parts store person also swears by synthetics).
>
>>As for K&N (& clones) filters you will find that people either swear by
>>them
>>or swear at them, no one who uses them is indifferent.
>>
>>You should be aware that K&N make more power by lowering the resistance in
>>the air intake just like the advertisements claim. What they don't tell
>>you
>>is they have lower resistance because they only filter the very large
>>particles, all the fine ones (that get trapped by a paper filter) go right
>>through. I am sure someone will supply links to pix of K&N protected
>>engines.....
>
> I've used a K&N air filter in my old Toyota pickup for most of the 15
> years I drove it, and AFAIK it never caused any problems.
>
> I already bought one for the Jeep since it was on sale ($10 off).
>
> While in the store, I noticed that FRAM is selling an OILED *PAPER*
> air filter for $12 ! I *almost* bought it.
>
>>
> [snip]
>
> ...

On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 03:48:51 -0500, "Billy Ray"
> wrote:

>Where do you live? The reason I ask is that the name brand synthetics sell
>for $4-$5 a quart here in the Cincinnati, Ohio area and as little as $3 when
>on sale.
>

So. Calif.
And I might have been generalizing a bit on the price of synthetics as
I really only saw the Mobile One and something else at around $8 or
so, so I ASSumed most others would be about that as well :/

>
>When I was in the auto-parts store last time to get filters for the WJ I
>noticed that they carried paper filters that look to replace the K&N cone
>'oiled" type. I guess the filter companies want to play both sides of the
>street.
>

Fram also makes the "Air Hawg". It's a clone of the K&N.
Someone else makes one now too, but the name escapes me ATM.

....

>
>>>
>>
>> I'm going to discuss it with my mechanic when I get a chance, but
>> since most synthetics *seem* to be around $10 a qt., I'll probably
>> flip a coin to decide which brand if I go with a synthetic (the local
>> parts store person also swears by synthetics).
>>
>>>As for K&N (& clones) filters you will find that people either swear by
>>>them
>>>or swear at them, no one who uses them is indifferent.
>>>
>>>You should be aware that K&N make more power by lowering the resistance in
>>>the air intake just like the advertisements claim. What they don't tell
>>>you
>>>is they have lower resistance because they only filter the very large
>>>particles, all the fine ones (that get trapped by a paper filter) go right
>>>through. I am sure someone will supply links to pix of K&N protected
>>>engines.....
>>
>> I've used a K&N air filter in my old Toyota pickup for most of the 15
>> years I drove it, and AFAIK it never caused any problems.
>>
>> I already bought one for the Jeep since it was on sale ($10 off).
>>
>> While in the store, I noticed that FRAM is selling an OILED *PAPER*
>> air filter for $12 ! I *almost* bought it.
>>
>>>
>> [snip]
>>
>> ...
>

Mobile 1 Synthetic 10w-30 is $5.19/qt at NAPA

"noneyabusiness" > wrote in message
...
> On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 03:48:51 -0500, "Billy Ray"
> > wrote:
>
>>Where do you live? The reason I ask is that the name brand synthetics
>>sell
>>for $4-$5 a quart here in the Cincinnati, Ohio area and as little as $3
>>when
>>on sale.
>>
>
> So. Calif.
> And I might have been generalizing a bit on the price of synthetics as
> I really only saw the Mobile One and something else at around $8 or
> so, so I ASSumed most others would be about that as well :/
>
>>
>>When I was in the auto-parts store last time to get filters for the WJ I
>>noticed that they carried paper filters that look to replace the K&N cone
>>'oiled" type. I guess the filter companies want to play both sides of the
>>street.
>>
>
> Fram also makes the "Air Hawg". It's a clone of the K&N.
> Someone else makes one now too, but the name escapes me ATM.
>
> ...
>
>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> I'm going to discuss it with my mechanic when I get a chance, but
>>> since most synthetics *seem* to be around $10 a qt., I'll probably
>>> flip a coin to decide which brand if I go with a synthetic (the local
>>> parts store person also swears by synthetics).
>>>
>>>>As for K&N (& clones) filters you will find that people either swear by
>>>>them
>>>>or swear at them, no one who uses them is indifferent.
>>>>
>>>>You should be aware that K&N make more power by lowering the resistance
>>>>in
>>>>the air intake just like the advertisements claim. What they don't tell
>>>>you
>>>>is they have lower resistance because they only filter the very large
>>>>particles, all the fine ones (that get trapped by a paper filter) go
>>>>right
>>>>through. I am sure someone will supply links to pix of K&N protected
>>>>engines.....
>>>
>>> I've used a K&N air filter in my old Toyota pickup for most of the 15
>>> years I drove it, and AFAIK it never caused any problems.
>>>
>>> I already bought one for the Jeep since it was on sale ($10 off).
>>>
>>> While in the store, I noticed that FRAM is selling an OILED *PAPER*
>>> air filter for $12 ! I *almost* bought it.
>>>
>>>>
>>> [snip]
>>>
>>> ...
>>
>

When my Jeep was young, I worked for Microsoft, and their stock doubled in
value two or three times a year, I put this stuff in it. Now I don't
bother. Gear oil is another story.

Earle

"Billy Ray" > wrote in message
...
> Mobile 1 Synthetic 10w-30 is $5.19/qt at NAPA
>
> "noneyabusiness" > wrote in message
> ...
> > On Fri, 11 Nov 2005 03:48:51 -0500, "Billy Ray"
> > > wrote:
> >
> >>Where do you live? The reason I ask is that the name brand synthetics
> >>sell
> >>for $4-$5 a quart here in the Cincinnati, Ohio area and as little as $3
> >>when
> >>on sale.
> >>
> >
> > So. Calif.
> > And I might have been generalizing a bit on the price of synthetics as
> > I really only saw the Mobile One and something else at around $8 or
> > so, so I ASSumed most others would be about that as well :/
> >
> >>
> >>When I was in the auto-parts store last time to get filters for the WJ I
> >>noticed that they carried paper filters that look to replace the K&N
cone
> >>'oiled" type. I guess the filter companies want to play both sides of
the
> >>street.
> >>
> >
> > Fram also makes the "Air Hawg". It's a clone of the K&N.
> > Someone else makes one now too, but the name escapes me ATM.
> >
> > ...
> >
> >>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>> I'm going to discuss it with my mechanic when I get a chance, but
> >>> since most synthetics *seem* to be around $10 a qt., I'll probably
> >>> flip a coin to decide which brand if I go with a synthetic (the local
> >>> parts store person also swears by synthetics).
> >>>
> >>>>As for K&N (& clones) filters you will find that people either swear
by
> >>>>them
> >>>>or swear at them, no one who uses them is indifferent.
> >>>>
> >>>>You should be aware that K&N make more power by lowering the
resistance
> >>>>in
> >>>>the air intake just like the advertisements claim. What they don't
tell
> >>>>you
> >>>>is they have lower resistance because they only filter the very large
> >>>>particles, all the fine ones (that get trapped by a paper filter) go
> >>>>right
> >>>>through. I am sure someone will supply links to pix of K&N protected
> >>>>engines.....
> >>>
> >>> I've used a K&N air filter in my old Toyota pickup for most of the 15
> >>> years I drove it, and AFAIK it never caused any problems.
> >>>
> >>> I already bought one for the Jeep since it was on sale ($10 off).
> >>>
> >>> While in the store, I noticed that FRAM is selling an OILED *PAPER*
> >>> air filter for $12 ! I *almost* bought it.
> >>>
> >>>>
> >>> [snip]
> >>>
> >>> ...
> >>
> >
>
>
>