source for brass brake like adapters?

Jan Andersson wrote:
>
> $250 sounds about right for a good bench or vice mounted unit. Once you
> have used one of those, you will never want to use ANY brand handheld
> flaring tools. Except if you must work under a car to do flares, that's
> where handhelds shine.
>
> If I had the money, I would buy the bench or vice mounted type. It's
> pretty amazing, for someone who's been doing them with crappy handheld
> tools for a long time
>
> Jan
>
>

http://www.northerntooluk.com/produc...W-59235-_-null


http://www.frost.co.uk/item_detail.asp?productID=8029

Michael Rogers wrote:

> Lookie here
> http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1265

Yeah, that's them. Thanks! 3 of the 6635s and one 6636 will fit my
need. Some other oddballs I need too. The collection of the stuff I
need is going to take a while

Prop valve will go in the dash I think. I'm thinking some Earl's
braided teflon lines with 4-an (?) ends snaked in. I'll have to hit the
local speed shop to have them cut to fit. 4an male to 1/8-27 male
should to be easy to get. The 4an male to 10x1 inverted bubble flare
ought to be the tough find.

>
> Prop valve will go in the dash I think. I'm thinking some Earl's
> braided teflon lines with 4-an (?) ends snaked in. I'll have to hit the
> local speed shop to have them cut to fit. 4an male to 1/8-27 male
> should to be easy to get. The 4an male to 10x1 inverted bubble flare
> ought to be the tough find.

The local hose house here has the plastic coated SS braded brake hose (in
colors) along with American and Metric swedge on ends.
I've gone to that instead of running steel lines, buy the fittings needed,
cut the line to length, mark the fittings and let them swedge and test them.
That way ya can mix and match the fittings as needed.
Lil' expensive, but don't need a expensive fairing tool either. They charge
me a buck a flair for metric bubbles. I tried the cheaper tools and kept
breaking the anvils.

Michael

Ok, think I'm getting somewhere now..


For the rear circuit, from the MC to the 10psi residual needs 10mmx1mm
line fake (inverted bubble flare) to 1/8-27. This part is unknown so far.

From the residual to the Earl hose would be a Wilwood 220-6956
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/008-...A/220-6956.jpg

Two Wilwood 220-6415 90° elbows 1/8-27 to AN-3 for the prop mounted
under the dash
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/008-...A/220-6415.jpg

From the Earl hose back into the rear brake line would be a Wilwood 220-6890
http://www.wilwood.com/Products/008-...A/220-6413.jpg

GEEZ
Now you have me wanting one! ;-)
I just don't need to use it everyday and sometimes not for years. lol
Handheld has been working for me for 30 years.
--
later,
(One out of many daves)


"Jan Andersson" > wrote in message
...
>
> $250 sounds about right for a good bench or vice mounted unit. Once you
> have used one of those, you will never want to use ANY brand handheld
> flaring tools. Except if you must work under a car to do flares, that's
> where handhelds shine.
>
> If I had the money, I would buy the bench or vice mounted type. It's
> pretty amazing, for someone who's been doing them with crappy handheld
> tools for a long time
>
> Jan
>
>
> dave AKA vwdoc1 wrote:
>> WOW $250????? It must be made out of some rare material. :-)
>>
>> Last flaring tool set I bought was a Craftsman for around $20-$30.
>> I also use a Blue Point from Snap-On like this K-D one here on ebay #
>> 300262016262 or this BP #350103473485 (might be missing an adapter)
>> This is all you need to make single, double and bubble flares along with
>> a tubing cutter which did not seem to come with the KD kit.
>>
>> Auto part stores might even rent/loan one. ;-)
>> DON'T BUY JUNK SINCE THE TOOLS CAN BREAK OR SLIP!!!
>>
>> JMHO