Cork Gaskets

I'm replacing the oil pan gasket on my 1.0 L metro and I will be
using a cork gasket. I've had several people tell me not to use
silicone with it and I've had some tell me to go ahead. I also
have a tube of RTV sealant that I had planned on using for a
bead seal with the cork gasket. What will happen if I use RTV
with cork and why should or shouldn't I usethe 2 together? Is
this something I should be concerned about? I'd hate to do it
again at the next oil change.
Thanks.

mbjj wrote:

> I'm replacing the oil pan gasket on my 1.0 L metro and I will be
> using a cork gasket. I've had several people tell me not to use
> silicone with it and I've had some tell me to go ahead. I also
> have a tube of RTV sealant that I had planned on using for a
> bead seal with the cork gasket. What will happen if I use RTV
> with cork and why should or shouldn't I use the 2 together? Is
> this something I should be concerned about?

The Ford dealer once used nothing but RTV on my oil pan (cast
aluminum), and the oil soon looked like green algae. They said it was
normal and that the oil didn't need to be changed (I changed it anyway;
the new oil stayed clear). I assume that they used oxygen-sensor-safe
RTV and not the kind that smells like vinegar before it cures. BTW,
the cheapest sensor-safe RTV I know of is the Permatex blue kind sold
at Wal-mart. It's not Ultra Blue, just regular Blue, but it is labeled
as being sensor-safe.

mbjj wrote:
> I'm replacing the oil pan gasket on my 1.0 L metro and I will be
> using a cork gasket. I've had several people tell me not to use
> silicone with it and I've had some tell me to go ahead. I also
> have a tube of RTV sealant that I had planned on using for a
> bead seal with the cork gasket. What will happen if I use RTV
> with cork and why should or shouldn't I usethe 2 together? Is
> this something I should be concerned about? I'd hate to do it
> again at the next oil change.
> Thanks.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought that as long as
the mating surfaces weren't gouged all to hell, and you got all the old
gasket material off, that RTV was not necessary with new gaskets.

-phaeton

"phaeton" > wrote in message
> Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought that as long as
> the mating surfaces weren't gouged all to hell, and you got all the old
> gasket material off, that RTV was not necessary with new gaskets.
>


That is normally the case, Phaeton.

wrote:

>
> "phaeton" > wrote in message
>> Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought that as long as
>> the mating surfaces weren't gouged all to hell, and you got all the old
>> gasket material off, that RTV was not necessary with new gaskets.
>>
>
>
> That is normally the case, Phaeton.

This is what I did. I put a thin bead of RTV [orange] on the
inside edge of the pan. I laid the gasket on top of the bead and
turned the pan upside down on a flat surface [washing machine]
while I prepped the bottom of the engine. Then I applied another
thin bead of RTV to the gasket inside edge and installed the
pan. This is on a new pan because I had a problem with it
leaking before and I don't want to mess around with it anymore.
So I replaced the pan and tightened it down snug with a 1/4 drive.
Will this suffice? Will I have any problem with the gasket and
RTV together? I hope not, it's done now. One last thing. I'm
letting it set up until tomorrow 5 PM EST just to keep any
stresses and fluids off of it. Thoughts/comments? Thanks.

"mbjj" > wrote in message
news
> This is what I did. I put a thin bead of RTV [orange] on the
> inside edge of the pan. I laid the gasket on top of the bead and
> turned the pan upside down on a flat surface [washing machine]
> while I prepped the bottom of the engine. Then I applied another
> thin bead of RTV to the gasket inside edge and installed the
> pan. This is on a new pan because I had a problem with it
> leaking before and I don't want to mess around with it anymore.
> So I replaced the pan and tightened it down snug with a 1/4 drive.
> Will this suffice? Will I have any problem with the gasket and
> RTV together? I hope not, it's done now. One last thing. I'm
> letting it set up until tomorrow 5 PM EST just to keep any
> stresses and fluids off of it. Thoughts/comments? Thanks.


As long as you let the RTV set up and cure before it is exposed
to liquids and elevated temperatures, you should have no problem.

RTV is not something that you reassemble wet, or just skinned over, and
put directly into service, if you want it to be very robust and durable.

Even the acetic acid/anhydride curing compounds are not a problem if
they are allowed to cure totally before being put into service.

Some of the professional mechanics on this board have mentioned they
dont have the time to let RTV's cure this way, and I can certainly
understand
that. But for best success, the Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicones
MUST cure totally, and this can take several hours. I say 'overnight' but
read your instructions carefully.

On Sun, 29 Oct 2006 19:52:33 GMT, > wrote:

>
>"mbjj" > wrote in message
>news >
>> This is what I did. I put a thin bead of RTV [orange] on the
>> inside edge of the pan. I laid the gasket on top of the bead and
>> turned the pan upside down on a flat surface [washing machine]
>> while I prepped the bottom of the engine. Then I applied another
>> thin bead of RTV to the gasket inside edge and installed the
>> pan. This is on a new pan because I had a problem with it
>> leaking before and I don't want to mess around with it anymore.
>> So I replaced the pan and tightened it down snug with a 1/4 drive.
>> Will this suffice? Will I have any problem with the gasket and
>> RTV together? I hope not, it's done now. One last thing. I'm
>> letting it set up until tomorrow 5 PM EST just to keep any
>> stresses and fluids off of it. Thoughts/comments? Thanks.
>
>
>As long as you let the RTV set up and cure before it is exposed
>to liquids and elevated temperatures, you should have no problem.
>
>RTV is not something that you reassemble wet, or just skinned over,

What about when the directions tell you to do just that?
They tell you to assemble shortly after application. If its really
necessary I will look at a tube tomorrow when I am at the shop and
copy the text. Obviously filling with liquids and subjecting to
pressure -- particularly in a coolant application -- is another
matter. The longer the better on that one.

Don
www.donsautomotive.com

> and put directly into service, if you want it to be very robust and durable.
>
>Even the acetic acid/anhydride curing compounds are not a problem if
>they are allowed to cure totally before being put into service.
>
>Some of the professional mechanics on this board have mentioned they
>dont have the time to let RTV's cure this way, and I can certainly
>understand
>that. But for best success, the Room Temperature Vulcanizing silicones
>MUST cure totally, and this can take several hours. I say 'overnight' but
>read your instructions carefully.
>

"Don" > wrote in message
...

> >
> >As long as you let the RTV set up and cure before it is exposed
> >to liquids and elevated temperatures, you should have no problem.
> >
> >RTV is not something that you reassemble wet, or just skinned over,
>
> What about when the directions tell you to do just that?
> Don
> www.donsautomotive.com

I think I just didnt explain myself too well.

You can, and should, assemble it wet or skinned, but you should not use it,
charge fluids to it, apply pressure to it until it has cured totally.

Until it has fully cured, it can be partially dissolved in oil, can be
displaced
by water, etc.

Some people apply the silicone, let it skin over, assemble, and put it into
service. This will sometimes fail to give the desired results.

If you assemble it and let it cure in place, it is very very strong and
durable.

On Mon, 30 Oct 2006 00:50:14 GMT, > wrote:

>
>"Don" > wrote in message
.. .
>
>> >
>> >As long as you let the RTV set up and cure before it is exposed
>> >to liquids and elevated temperatures, you should have no problem.
>> >
>> >RTV is not something that you reassemble wet, or just skinned over,
>>
>> What about when the directions tell you to do just that?
>> Don
>> www.donsautomotive.com
>
>I think I just didnt explain myself too well.

I wondered about that.

>You can, and should, assemble it wet or skinned, but you should not use it,
>charge fluids to it, apply pressure to it until it has cured totally.
>
>Until it has fully cured, it can be partially dissolved in oil, can be
>displaced
>by water, etc.
>
>Some people apply the silicone, let it skin over, assemble, and put it into
>service. This will sometimes fail to give the desired results.
>
>If you assemble it and let it cure in place, it is very very strong and
>durable.

Agreed. I like to let it sit overnight. But how important that is
depends on the application. One important caveat: it should NEVER
been on something like an oil pump or oil filter housing. If a little
string of cured hard rubber breaks off and blocks an oil hole that's
not to good. Doesn't belong in the oil pump either.

Don
www.donsautomotive.com
>

"Don" > wrote in message
> >If you assemble it and let it cure in place, it is very very strong and
> >durable.
>
> Agreed. I like to let it sit overnight. But how important that is
> depends on the application. One important caveat: it should NEVER
> been on something like an oil pump or oil filter housing. If a little
> string of cured hard rubber breaks off and blocks an oil hole that's
> not to good. Doesn't belong in the oil pump either.
>
> Don
> www.donsautomotive.com

Absolutely, Don. The application, as you point out, dictates to some
extent the need to be judicious with curing times.

As far as the problems that can be caused by excess RTV and sloppy
installation, again these are good points. This could be just as true with
any hardening or solidifying gasket forming compounds, not just silicones.

I prefer not to use these compounds if I can avoid them, since some of them
are so hard to clean off if you ever have to go back in.