help with air conditioner

I am so frustrated. Have a 96 silverado. installing new compressor and
condensor and dryer. Pulled vacuum but vaccum goes to 0 in about 5
minutes. Where can I go from here? On another note, how can I tell the
proper size seal when replacing the seals on the lines?

On Sat, 23 Apr 2011 18:33:28 -0700 (PDT), stryped >
wrote:

>I am so frustrated. Have a 96 silverado. installing new compressor and
>condensor and dryer. Pulled vacuum but vaccum goes to 0 in about 5
>minutes. Where can I go from here? On another note, how can I tell the
>proper size seal when replacing the seals on the lines?

Make sure you're using A/C rated o-rings - think they're blue.
Don't know about size - I always match with the old o-rings.
Seems new components always come with rings, so just ask the auto
parts guy to pull out your component and buy matching A/C rings from
him.
Last time I had a leak it was from using the o-rings that came with a
new dryer. They weren't A/C rated.
Don't be frustrated.
All you have to do is charge with UV-dye added R134 and when it's not
cooling any more or shortly thereafter put a UV light on ALL parts to
find the leak(s).
Don't drive in the rain until you can check for leaks, as that can
wash the dye off.
Don't stop looking after finding the first leak. May be more than
one.
So you'll waste maybe 20 bucks of R134. That can't be helped.

--Vic

"stryped" wrote in message
>I am so frustrated. Have a 96 silverado. installing new compressor
>and
> condensor and dryer. Pulled vacuum but vaccum goes to 0 in about 5
> minutes. Where can I go from here? On another note, how can I tell
> the
> proper size seal when replacing the seals on the lines?

What was the problem before you decided to replace all these
components?

You need to coat the O rings / seals with a bit of the proper
refrigerant oil befor installing and also replace the same amount of
oil which was in the old components. I turn the removed components
upside down, drain the old oil into a container, then pour the same
amount of new oil into the new components plus a little more.
(Refrigerant oil circulates in the lines along with the refrigerant.)

A factory service manual set of books for your specific vehicle will
have complete replacement instructions for all of this as well as
complete troubleshooting instructions - order from your dealer or
helminc.com
(When all else fails, read the instructions...)

Note: There are specific O rings for A/C and the specific refrigerant
used in your vehicle. Also when replacing these, you need to look very
closely at the size around and height of the O ring. A slightly
different size will look about the same, but it is not if you look
closely. They sell sets of these in auto parts stores in the A/C
section. (Don't use any old O ring!)

On 4/23/2011 8:33 PM, stryped wrote:
> I am so frustrated. Have a 96 silverado. installing new compressor and
> condenser and dryer. Pulled vacuum but vacuum goes to 0 in about 5
> minutes. Where can I go from here? On another note, how can I tell the
> proper size seal when replacing the seals on the lines?
If you in doubt, go to the dealer and get a seal and oring kit..

break all the seals and orings and replace them.
look closely at the condenser in front of the radiator for any dings in
it that may have perforated it. If you see a oily spot on it, you might
have found the smoking gun.

If all else fails, gas it up with r134 with UV dye and run it.
then get a UV flashlight and track down the leak.

If it leaks out that fast, you got a pretty big leak
you should be able to hear a hissing sound with the motor off if its
leaking that fast.

bob

On Apr 24, 11:04*am, bob urz > wrote:
> On 4/23/2011 8:33 PM, stryped wrote:> I am so frustrated. Have a 96 silverado. installing new compressor and
> > condenser and dryer. Pulled vacuum but vacuum goes to 0 in about 5
> > minutes. Where can I go from here? On another note, how can I tell the
> > proper size seal when replacing the *seals on the lines?
>
> * If you in doubt, go to the dealer and get a seal and oring kit..
>
> break all the seals and orings and replace them.
> look closely at the condenser in front of the radiator for any dings in
> it that may have perforated it. If you see a oily spot on it, you might
> have found the smoking gun.
>
> If all else fails, gas it up with r134 with UV dye and run it.
> then get a UV flashlight and track down the leak.
>
> If it leaks out that fast, you got a pretty big leak
> you should be able to hear a hissing sound with the motor off if its
> leaking that fast.
>
> bob

Update:

I am beginning to wonder if my guages are bad. I vacuumed and removed
the high pressure line to my guages but kept the low pressure line
attached. It held a vaccum overnight. If I re attach the high pressure
guages hose, it begins to leak slowly as before. DOes this mean it is
probably my guages?

Yes there probably is a leak at the high pressure connection (clean
and blow out with air), or the gauge high pressure hose / connector to
gauge, or the valve you turn on the gauges if you have that. Be sure
all the gauge / hose fittings are clean and snug.

That would be a nasty problem and difficult to find! I would be
thinking it was the A/C system leaking! Good catch!



"stryped" > wrote in message
Update:

I am beginning to wonder if my guages are bad. I vacuumed and removed
the high pressure line to my guages but kept the low pressure line
attached. It held a vaccum overnight. If I re attach the high pressure
guages hose, it begins to leak slowly as before. DOes this mean it is
probably my guages?

On 4/25/2011 11:00 AM, Bill wrote:
> Yes there probably is a leak at the high pressure connection (clean and
> blow out with air), or the gauge high pressure hose / connector to
> gauge, or the valve you turn on the gauges if you have that. Be sure all
> the gauge / hose fittings are clean and snug.
>
> That would be a nasty problem and difficult to find! I would be thinking
> it was the A/C system leaking! Good catch!
>
>
>
> "stryped" > wrote in message
> Update:
>
> I am beginning to wonder if my gauges are bad. I vacuumed and removed
> the high pressure line to my gauges but kept the low pressure line
> attached. It held a vacuum overnight. If I re attach the high pressure
> gauges hose, it begins to leak slowly as before. Does this mean it is
> probably my gauges?
Harbor freight has R134 gauge sets on sale

you need to confirm also that the sharader valves on the high and low
sides are not leaking. if there replaceable, you might do that

bob

On Mon, 25 Apr 2011 09:00:31 -0700, "Bill"
> wrote:

>Yes there probably is a leak at the high pressure connection (clean
>and blow out with air), or the gauge high pressure hose / connector to
>gauge, or the valve you turn on the gauges if you have that. Be sure
>all the gauge / hose fittings are clean and snug.
>
>That would be a nasty problem and difficult to find! I would be
>thinking it was the A/C system leaking! Good catch!
>

Sure was. If I had put the new parts in that he did, and had that
leakdown, I would have figured an o-ring or component was leaking.
Then I would have charged with dye-added R134.
Then just use the A/C until it stops cooling before checking with a
light.
But it wouldn't stop cooling, so I'd have been "puzzled."
Maybe "worried" if I was about to take a trip with the car.
I always leave high and low hoses from the gage set connected while
I check that vacuum holds. Just isolate the pump.
Never had a problem holding vacuum.
If I ever do, I'll remember what stryped did to check hoses.
That was good thinking.

--Vic