1993 Plymouth Voyager w\3.0 litre motor

I have a 1993 Voyager with the 3 litre motor. It has a ticking noise in the
top end and am wondering how diffucult a valve job is to perform? Or is this
something better left for a mechanic, and if it is, what does it cost. The
van is my handicapped brothers and my dad and I would perform the work
ourselves.
Any suggestions would be wonderful.

Thanks
Kevin

This is a fair amount of work, but doable
You'll need a 10mm allen on a socket for the tourque wrench to reinstal the
head bolts. see http://www.allpar.com/mopar/3tech.html and note the
paragraph on "ticking noise"

tip1: also get a bag of small ruber bands (1/2 inch) to place on the lifters
so they dont fall on the floor when being removed from heads.

tip2: when removing the lifters w/ shaft assemblies. leave the bolts in them
so they stay in place on the shafts. else the springs push the assembly
apart and it is a pain to get the thing together again.

I learned the tips the hard way. Used a 1/2 in Air tool to remove crankshaft
pully and cam sprokets and 3/8 air ratchet for the bolts on the front of the
engine. Handy but not required. use a bunch of containers to hold the bolts
so they all go back in the right areas. Use neversieze on exhaust stud/nuts.

Find a local parts dealer that delivers parts to the local shops and ask for
a head shop to do the heads. buy the gasket kit and take the valve stem
seals with the heads to the shop for overhaul. No need to buy the seals
twice.

I found it easier to remove the two front bolts on the exhaust crossover and
the 4 on the rear mainifold to catilytic converter and then just lift the
heads off with the exhaust manifolds attached (same for reasembly). Much
easier to get to all the bolts with the heads off.

You'll have the front of the engine apart as well and may want to replace
the timingbelt, waterpump, front crank seal (seal only, leave housing in
place). there are also the two timing belt idler bearings. I left mine as
is.
good luck

This is a fair amount of work, but doable
You'll need a 10mm allen on a socket for the tourque wrench to reinstal the
head bolts. see http://www.allpar.com/mopar/3tech.html and note the
paragraph on "ticking noise"

tip1: also get a bag of small ruber bands (1/2 inch) to place on the lifters
so they dont fall on the floor when being removed from heads.

tip2: when removing the lifters w/ shaft assemblies. leave the bolts in them
so they stay in place on the shafts. else the springs push the assembly
apart and it is a pain to get the thing together again.

I learned the tips the hard way. Used a 1/2 in Air tool to remove crankshaft
pully and cam sprokets and 3/8 air ratchet for the bolts on the front of the
engine. Handy but not required. use a bunch of containers to hold the bolts
so they all go back in the right areas. Use neversieze on exhaust stud/nuts.

Find a local parts dealer that delivers parts to the local shops and ask for
a head shop to do the heads. buy the gasket kit and take the valve stem
seals with the heads to the shop for overhaul. No need to buy the seals
twice.

I found it easier to remove the two front bolts on the exhaust crossover and
the 4 on the rear mainifold to catilytic converter and then just lift the
heads off with the exhaust manifolds attached (same for reasembly). Much
easier to get to all the bolts with the heads off.

You'll have the front of the engine apart as well and may want to replace
the timingbelt, waterpump, front crank seal (seal only, leave housing in
place). there are also the two timing belt idler bearings. I left mine as
is.
good luck