broken timing belt blues

I am in the process of trying to repair my '91 LX four cylinder. The
timing belt broke, and I am following the steps to replace it but I can't
figure out how to remove the crankshaft pulley. I tried bracing the
pulley with a screwdriver then turning the bolt with a ratchet and breaker
bar, and I broke my good screwdriver. Please help!

"tnhulk" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> I am in the process of trying to repair my '91 LX four cylinder. The
> timing belt broke, and I am following the steps to replace it but I can't
> figure out how to remove the crankshaft pulley. I tried bracing the
> pulley with a screwdriver then turning the bolt with a ratchet and breaker
> bar, and I broke my good screwdriver. Please help!
>

A good 1/2" air impact wrench will remove it, effortlessly.

Dave

Hairy wrote:
> "tnhulk" > wrote in message
> lkaboutautos.com...
>
>>I am in the process of trying to repair my '91 LX four cylinder. The
>>timing belt broke, and I am following the steps to replace it but I can't
>>figure out how to remove the crankshaft pulley. I tried bracing the
>>pulley with a screwdriver then turning the bolt with a ratchet and breaker
>>bar, and I broke my good screwdriver. Please help!
>>
>
>
> A good 1/2" air impact wrench will remove it, effortlessly.


Yup, this is definitely one of those times where an impact gun makes all
the difference. And one of those cheesy $79 Home Depot guns probably
won't work all the time either. You want something with 500-600ft/lbs
of torque in reverse.

Cheers,

Use a socket and a breaker bar.... wedge the breaker bar end against the
frame horn in the appropriate direction. Use a starter button to bump the
starter and this will break the bolt loose. This can be a dangerous
operation if we don't pay attention to socket positioning, breaker bar
orientation and so on....

HTH

"tnhulk" > wrote in message
lkaboutautos.com...
> I am in the process of trying to repair my '91 LX four cylinder. The
> timing belt broke, and I am following the steps to replace it but I can't
> figure out how to remove the crankshaft pulley. I tried bracing the
> pulley with a screwdriver then turning the bolt with a ratchet and breaker
> bar, and I broke my good screwdriver. Please help!
>

Or you can avoid the impending damage to other components in your engine
bay, loss/breakage of fingers, etc...and just use the correct tool for
the job.

That has got to be the most idiotic recommendation I've seen in a while.
In short, don't do that.

Cheers,



Jim Warman wrote:
> Use a socket and a breaker bar.... wedge the breaker bar end against the
> frame horn in the appropriate direction. Use a starter button to bump the
> starter and this will break the bolt loose. This can be a dangerous
> operation if we don't pay attention to socket positioning, breaker bar
> orientation and so on....

Don't knock it if you haven't tried it. This is the only way to get the
crank bolt out of the front of an early Escort motor without pulling the
engine (can you say extra charge for the customer?). There are many
instances where this method makes removing the radiator, AC condenser and
other items unnecessary.

I have no idea what you do for a living.... but it appears to have little to
do with automobiles...

FWIW... after 30some years, I can still count to 10 and the only radiators I
have replaced were already "broken".

Cheers.


"Ritz" > wrote in message
...
> Or you can avoid the impending damage to other components in your engine
> bay, loss/breakage of fingers, etc...and just use the correct tool for
> the job.
>
> That has got to be the most idiotic recommendation I've seen in a while.
> In short, don't do that.
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Jim Warman wrote:
> > Use a socket and a breaker bar.... wedge the breaker bar end against the
> > frame horn in the appropriate direction. Use a starter button to bump
the
> > starter and this will break the bolt loose. This can be a dangerous
> > operation if we don't pay attention to socket positioning, breaker bar
> > orientation and so on....

The "and so on..." should include disabling the ignition system.

--
Richard

'94 GT 'vert
Under Drive Pulleys
Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
High Stall Torque Converter
4:10 Gears
Gripp Sub Frame Connectors (welded)
FRPP Aluminum Drive shaft
FRPP M5400-A Suspension
Laser Red

"Jim Warman" > wrote in message
news:ueSLe.221400$on1.95725@clgrps13...
> Don't knock it if you haven't tried it. This is the only way to get the
> crank bolt out of the front of an early Escort motor without pulling the
> engine (can you say extra charge for the customer?). There are many
> instances where this method makes removing the radiator, AC condenser and
> other items unnecessary.
>
> I have no idea what you do for a living.... but it appears to have little
to
> do with automobiles...
>
> FWIW... after 30some years, I can still count to 10 and the only radiators
I
> have replaced were already "broken".
>
> Cheers.
>
>
> "Ritz" > wrote in message
> ...
> > Or you can avoid the impending damage to other components in your engine
> > bay, loss/breakage of fingers, etc...and just use the correct tool for
> > the job.
> >
> > That has got to be the most idiotic recommendation I've seen in a while.
> > In short, don't do that.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> >
> >
> > Jim Warman wrote:
> > > Use a socket and a breaker bar.... wedge the breaker bar end against
the
> > > frame horn in the appropriate direction. Use a starter button to bump
> the
> > > starter and this will break the bolt loose. This can be a dangerous
> > > operation if we don't pay attention to socket positioning, breaker bar
> > > orientation and so on....
>
>

Jim Warman wrote:
> Don't knock it if you haven't tried it. This is the only way to get the
> crank bolt out of the front of an early Escort motor without pulling the
> engine (can you say extra charge for the customer?). There are many
> instances where this method makes removing the radiator, AC condenser and
> other items unnecessary.
>
> I have no idea what you do for a living.... but it appears to have little to
> do with automobiles...


Heh. Among other things, I have been professionally repairing autos
since the early 80's. I'm ASE certified and certified to work on
Audi/Volkswagen/Porsche and (cough) Ford vehicles. If I caught one of
my mechanics doing what you described earlier, I'd fire him on the spot.

People get hurt that way and the potential for causing damage to the car
is substantially greater than zero. Neither one of those risks is
acceptable to avoid "extra charge for the customer." So I'll re-iterate
my previous warning to the original poster. Do it the right way and use
an impact gun.

Have a nice day.

Cheers,

Well, I've replaced a lot ( 3 or 4 anyway) of 2.3 timing belts and I dont
recall having any problem getting the pulley off.. and that was before I
had an impact gun.

In fact did I even take the pulley off? Man it sux getting old!

What I do recall on the first one is having a hard time working the
timing belt cover around to get it off. But once I learned the trick....

Hmmm... anyway. I'm with Warman again... what's like without a little
adventure. I never crawl under without jackstands but that breaker bar
and starter trick doesnt seem any more dangerous than cranking an old
engine.

But I guess we better not share our little tricks if someone might go
braindead and not consider the physics! Ooops too late , just remembred
this is in google forever!


"Jim Warman" > wrote in
news:ueSLe.221400$on1.95725@clgrps13:

> Don't knock it if you haven't tried it. This is the only way to get
> the crank bolt out of the front of an early Escort motor without
> pulling the engine (can you say extra charge for the customer?). There
> are many instances where this method makes removing the radiator, AC
> condenser and other items unnecessary.
>
> I have no idea what you do for a living.... but it appears to have
> little to do with automobiles...
>
> FWIW... after 30some years, I can still count to 10 and the only
> radiators I have replaced were already "broken".
>
> Cheers.
>
>
> "Ritz" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Or you can avoid the impending damage to other components in your
>> engine bay, loss/breakage of fingers, etc...and just use the correct
>> tool for the job.
>>
>> That has got to be the most idiotic recommendation I've seen in a
>> while.
>> In short, don't do that.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>>
>> Jim Warman wrote:
>> > Use a socket and a breaker bar.... wedge the breaker bar end
>> > against the frame horn in the appropriate direction. Use a starter
>> > button to bump
> the
>> > starter and this will break the bolt loose. This can be a dangerous
>> > operation if we don't pay attention to socket positioning, breaker
>> > bar orientation and so on....
>
>

"Use a starter button to bump the
starter and this will break the bolt loose." was included in my original
reply...

I realize now that this may seem ambiguous to the neophyte..... After this
many years, so many things are "given" that mentioning them can be
overlooked..... This is a curmudgeons way of thanking you for the
clarification....


"Richard" > wrote in message
news:xySLe.217901$5V4.37767@pd7tw3no...
> The "and so on..." should include disabling the ignition system.
>
> --
> Richard
>
> '94 GT 'vert
> Under Drive Pulleys
> Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
> High Stall Torque Converter
> 4:10 Gears
> Gripp Sub Frame Connectors (welded)
> FRPP Aluminum Drive shaft
> FRPP M5400-A Suspension
> Laser Red
>
> "Jim Warman" > wrote in message
> news:ueSLe.221400$on1.95725@clgrps13...
> > Don't knock it if you haven't tried it. This is the only way to get the
> > crank bolt out of the front of an early Escort motor without pulling the
> > engine (can you say extra charge for the customer?). There are many
> > instances where this method makes removing the radiator, AC condenser
and
> > other items unnecessary.
> >
> > I have no idea what you do for a living.... but it appears to have
little
> to
> > do with automobiles...
> >
> > FWIW... after 30some years, I can still count to 10 and the only
radiators
> I
> > have replaced were already "broken".
> >
> > Cheers.
> >
> >
> > "Ritz" > wrote in message
> > ...
> > > Or you can avoid the impending damage to other components in your
engine
> > > bay, loss/breakage of fingers, etc...and just use the correct tool for
> > > the job.
> > >
> > > That has got to be the most idiotic recommendation I've seen in a
while.
> > > In short, don't do that.
> > >
> > > Cheers,
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Jim Warman wrote:
> > > > Use a socket and a breaker bar.... wedge the breaker bar end against
> the
> > > > frame horn in the appropriate direction. Use a starter button to
bump
> > the
> > > > starter and this will break the bolt loose. This can be a dangerous
> > > > operation if we don't pay attention to socket positioning, breaker
bar
> > > > orientation and so on....
> >
> >
>
>