Changing a flat tire.... with a sledgehammer??

On 10/24/2011 9:13 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:

> I always use antiseize on my lug nuts and tighten them down by hand.
> Ive never found a need to torgue them to any set range. And they come
> off reasonably well also.

I just lean on the socket/breaker bar to tighten the nuts. My friend
always insists on using a torque wrench which is a drag. It's better to
develop a feel for torque for most nuts/bolts. Not all of them, of
course. :-)

>
> I simply tighten them to..."ugh!" and get back on the road.

I like to tighten nuts to "eeaw!"

> Gunner
>
> One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
> in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
> and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
> not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
> Gunner Asch

I use a four feet long pipe on my 4 way wrench to loosen and tighten the
lug nuts.I carry the pipe because some tire shops get them too tight
with their air tools.
cuhulin

(J R) wrote in news:29034-4EA5B35A-357@storefull-
3171.bay.webtv.net:

> Next time they rust on like that, loosen the lug nuts two or three turns
> and drive around the block.That might wobble the wheel(s) loose enough
> to take them off.
> cuhulin
>


Don't even need to drive that far. 20- or 30-feet with the lug nuts loose
should be enough.

Wiggle the steering wheel a lot during those 20- or 30-feet.

--
Tegger

"Existential Angst" > wrote in
:

> Had to sledgehammer the flat tire/rim off the hub, it had rusted on so
> hard -- which is strange, bec the tires had been rotated a month or
> two ago.



But the rust was not sanded off. And that's the problem.

Each time the wheel is removed, you need to use 50-grit emery cloth to
sand off the rust where the wheel contacts the hub. If you do not, the
rust will build up and have an amazing tendency to bind firmly with the
wheel and make it the devil's own work to get the wheel off again.


>
> I've had to kick rims off hubs before, but never sledgehammer it off
> -- and I'm not talking taps, I'm talking full swings. I almost gave
> up!! The wood I used to protect the rim edge was destroyed.
> Had this flat occurred anywhere but right outside my shop, it woulda
> needed towing.
> It was a full 1/2 hour workout -- I needed a nappypoo afterwards.
>
> Should I grease the rim/hub contact area?



Yes. But first sand the rust off!



> A number of people have told me not to.



Go ahead, no worries. Excess grease get flung outwards and ends up on
the inner face of the rim, eventually covered with dust. It goes nowhere
near the brakes.



> Heat issues? A high-temp grease?
> Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? Alum? Nylon?


No. Just use anything you've got handy. Anti-seize, Crisco, bacon
grease, lard, anything. The very best is Dow-Corning MolyKote M-77. It's
expensive, but is astonishing stuff.


>
> How about greasing lug nuts? I need to use a pipe on the lug wrench,
> and sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the g-d nut.
> Mebbe anti-seize compound, or loctite?


No lube is needed, just proper torque.

If the nuts were difficult to bust loose, they were overtightened to
begin with. Use a torque wrench, follow the automaker's instructions,
and those nuts will come loose as easy as pie. Even in the Rust Belt.




--
Tegger

On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 13:51:09 -0700 (PDT), N8N >
wrote:

>On Oct 24, 3:13*pm, Gunner Asch > wrote:
>> On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 13:13:05 -0500, Nicholas
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > wrote:
>> >On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:08:28 -0400, "Existential Angst"
>> > wrote:
>>
>> >>Had to sledgehammer the flat tire/rim off the hub, it had rusted on so
>> >>hard -- *which is strange, bec the tires had been rotated a month or two
>> >>ago.
>>
>> >>I've had to kick rims off hubs before, but never sledgehammer it off -- and
>> >>I'm not talking taps, I'm talking full swings. *I almost gave up!! *The wood
>> >>I used to protect the rim edge was destroyed.
>> >>Had this flat occurred anywhere but right outside my shop, it woulda needed
>> >>towing.
>> >>It was a full 1/2 hour workout -- I needed a nappypoo afterwards.
>>
>> >>Should I grease the rim/hub contact area? *A number of people have told me
>> >>not to. *Heat issues? *A high-temp grease?
>> >>Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? *Alum? *Nylon?
>>
>> >>How about greasing lug nuts? *I need to use a pipe on the lug wrench, and
>> >>sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the g-d nut. *Mebbe
>> >>anti-seize compound, or loctite?
>>
>> >Some problems here.
>> >Some people put some antiseize grease where hub meets wheel. *Only a
>> >small amount to keep it from fouling brakes.
>>
>> >And some folks put same on lugs. *But my car says 100 ft-lbs DRY
>> >torque on lug nuts. *No mention of correct torque on lubed lugs. *If I
>> >lube lugs, then at 100 ft-lbs I'm going to SNAP a lug off, or put so
>> >much tension on the bolt that it won't hold in a high speed turn
>> >without failing.
>>
>> >I personally, just guessing, would de-rate from 100 ft-lbs to about 75
>> >ft-lbs if using antiseize on wheel lugs. *But that's just me.
>> >_Definitely_ use antiseize on rim-hub contact area.
>>
>> >Lg
>>
>> I always use antiseize on my lug nuts and tighten them down by hand.
>> Ive never found a need to torgue them to any set range. *And they come
>> off reasonably well also.
>>
>> I simply tighten them to..."ugh!" and get back on the road.
>
>That doesn't work on some cars. IME German ones like BMW and Porsche
>that tend to have all the parts and especially the unsprung ones
>engineered to be as strong as they need to be but no heavier. But it
>seems to be spreading to all newer vehicles. On vehicles like that
>uneven torquing can cause undesirable vibrations and mimic warped
>brake rotors.
>
>On something old and American with steel wheels, your method is
>probably fine.
>
>nate

Akk I drive is American Iron with steel wheels. Trucks mostly but I do
own a van and a Saturn.

Ill keep tightening to 'Uhh!" specs

Gunner

One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
Gunner Asch

Years ago, I had that problem with my Dodge Van. Rear wheels
would stick on. My answer to get a very small grinding wheel
for my drill. Maybe inch diameter. I jacked up the back, one
wheel only. Chock the fronts. Took the wheel off (heat and
beat). Started up the motor, and with great nervousness, I
put the shift in reverse. Only one hub spun, but it spun
good.

Used the small grinding wheel in the drill, and made the hub
smaller. Turn off the engine, and the hub stopped turning.
Jack up the other side, and do that one too. Grind the hub
down.

The wheels went on on and off, OK, afterwards, that way.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Existential Angst" > wrote in message
...
Had to sledgehammer the flat tire/rim off the hub, it had
rusted on so
hard -- which is strange, bec the tires had been rotated a
month or two
ago.

I've had to kick rims off hubs before, but never
sledgehammer it off -- and
I'm not talking taps, I'm talking full swings. I almost
gave up!! The wood
I used to protect the rim edge was destroyed.
Had this flat occurred anywhere but right outside my shop,
it woulda needed
towing.
It was a full 1/2 hour workout -- I needed a nappypoo
afterwards.

Should I grease the rim/hub contact area? A number of
people have told me
not to. Heat issues? A high-temp grease?
Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? Alum? Nylon?

How about greasing lug nuts? I need to use a pipe on the
lug wrench, and
sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the
g-d nut. Mebbe
anti-seize compound, or loctite?
--
EA

Derating the lug torque is OK. I usually use a HF "clicker"
at 100 ft pounds. And I do grease or neversieze the lug
threads, and the facing end of the lug.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Nicholas" > wrote in message
...

And some folks put same on lugs. But my car says 100 ft-lbs
DRY
torque on lug nuts. No mention of correct torque on lubed
lugs. If I
lube lugs, then at 100 ft-lbs I'm going to SNAP a lug off,
or put so
much tension on the bolt that it won't hold in a high speed
turn
without failing.

I personally, just guessing, would de-rate from 100 ft-lbs
to about 75
ft-lbs if using antiseize on wheel lugs. But that's just
me.
_Definitely_ use antiseize on rim-hub contact area.

Lg

Regional dialects, of course.

I tighten too "oof".

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"dsi1" > wrote in message
...
On 10/24/2011 9:13 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:


>
> I simply tighten them to..."ugh!" and get back on the
> road.

I like to tighten nuts to "eeaw!"

On 10/24/2011 01:59 PM, dsi1 wrote:
> On 10/24/2011 9:13 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
>
>> I always use antiseize on my lug nuts and tighten them down by hand.
>> Ive never found a need to torgue them to any set range. And they come
>> off reasonably well also.
>
> I just lean on the socket/breaker bar to tighten the nuts. My friend
> always insists on using a torque wrench which is a drag. It's better to
> develop a feel for torque for most nuts/bolts. Not all of them, of
> course. :-)

good luck on that delusion of adequacy. if you've ever tested your
torques using this method vs the torque wrench, you'll find two things:

1. you're way off - seldom does even an experienced mechanic get within
20% of actual.

2. they're entirely inconsistent nut to nut.

even a $35 torque wrench from woolmort can give you better results than
that.

all this may be less relevant on a 50's chevy pickup, but it's an issue
on many modern cars - see n8n's response.



>
>>
>> I simply tighten them to..."ugh!" and get back on the road.
>
> I like to tighten nuts to "eeaw!"
>
>> Gunner
>>
>> One could not be a successful Leftwinger without realizing that,
>> in contrast to the popular conception supported by newspapers
>> and mothers of Leftwingers, a goodly number of Leftwingers are
>> not only narrow-minded and dull, but also just stupid.
>> Gunner Asch
>


--
nomina rutrum rutrum

On 10/24/2011 01:51 PM, N8N wrote:
> On Oct 24, 3:13�pm, Gunner > wrote:
>> On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 13:13:05 -0500, Nicholas
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> > wrote:
>>> On Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:08:28 -0400, "Existential Angst"
>>> > wrote:
>>
>>>> Had to sledgehammer the flat tire/rim off the hub, it had rusted on so
>>>> hard -- �which is strange, bec the tires had been rotated a month or two
>>>> ago.
>>
>>>> I've had to kick rims off hubs before, but never sledgehammer it off -- and
>>>> I'm not talking taps, I'm talking full swings. �I almost gave up!! �The wood
>>>> I used to protect the rim edge was destroyed.
>>>> Had this flat occurred anywhere but right outside my shop, it woulda needed
>>>> towing.
>>>> It was a full 1/2 hour workout -- I needed a nappypoo afterwards.
>>
>>>> Should I grease the rim/hub contact area? �A number of people have told me
>>>> not to. �Heat issues? �A high-temp grease?
>>>> Maybe fabricate some kind of shim? �Alum? �Nylon?
>>
>>>> How about greasing lug nuts? �I need to use a pipe on the lug wrench, and
>>>> sometimes I think the stud is going to break off with the g-d nut. �Mebbe
>>>> anti-seize compound, or loctite?
>>
>>> Some problems here.
>>> Some people put some antiseize grease where hub meets wheel. �Only a
>>> small amount to keep it from fouling brakes.
>>
>>> And some folks put same on lugs. �But my car says 100 ft-lbs DRY
>>> torque on lug nuts. �No mention of correct torque on lubed lugs. �If I
>>> lube lugs, then at 100 ft-lbs I'm going to SNAP a lug off, or put so
>>> much tension on the bolt that it won't hold in a high speed turn
>>> without failing.
>>
>>> I personally, just guessing, would de-rate from 100 ft-lbs to about 75
>>> ft-lbs if using antiseize on wheel lugs. �But that's just me.
>>> _Definitely_ use antiseize on rim-hub contact area.
>>
>>> Lg
>>
>> I always use antiseize on my lug nuts and tighten them down by hand.
>> Ive never found a need to torgue them to any set range. �And they come
>> off reasonably well also.
>>
>> I simply tighten them to..."ugh!" and get back on the road.
>
> That doesn't work on some cars. IME German ones like BMW and Porsche
> that tend to have all the parts and especially the unsprung ones
> engineered to be as strong as they need to be but no heavier. But it
> seems to be spreading to all newer vehicles. On vehicles like that
> uneven torquing can cause undesirable vibrations and mimic warped
> brake rotors.

"mimic warped brake rotors" - indeed. it's a serious issue on some
cars. civics and integras are crazy sensitive to it.


>
> On something old and American with steel wheels, your method is
> probably fine.
>
> nate


--
nomina rutrum rutrum