2008 squeaking

http://www.corvetteforum.net



"Andrew DeFaria" > wrote in message
...
> Clams Canino wrote:
>
> You may be able to get some plastic "anti-squeak" shims for the brakes -
past that, some new pads.
>
> I'm not much of a mechanic. At one time the dealer cut the rotors and that
helped, but only for a few weeks. Another time when I was replacing the
tires the Firestone shop said that sometimes breaks just squeak and you
could cut the rotors and replace pads but that's just how it is. I disagree.
Other cars and other vettes do not squeak like mine. Both places seemed to
be saying it would be way more work (read way more expensive) than simply
putting in some plastic shims...
>
> As for the top, you need to investigate something you can put on the
weatherstrip to stop the squeak.
> It's not the weatherstrip that I can tell. It's definitely in the latches
the keep the top down in the front. I believe I discussed it back here
before and was pointed to an official GM fix. In fact I went to the dealer
and mentioned the problem and the fix and he was like "Oh yeah, we've heard
of that fix, yada, yada" and they did that specific fix. It involved
something like making the rollers in the latches not roll anymore and
instead making them fixed. Again that helped for a while but now it's way
noisy again.
>
> Try the Corvette Forum for a much greater population of owners.
>
> Where would that be? Pointer?
>
> It's still a GM car dood. Don't presume that 50K alone changes that.
Back in the day, the C3 was espensive too - and had more squeaks and rattles
than anything.
>
> That may be but as I said, other vettes I see but don't hear. IOW my car
squeaks but other vette owners don't (Or do they? Anybody else got a squeaky
top?). And I think this only happens with the clear tops.
>
> --
> Andrew DeFaria
> If you can read this, I can slam on my brakes and sue you.

A GM fix is a paid activity for the dealer and they could care less if it fixes your problem as the next visit under warranty is also paid, get the drift here? Plus they have had more than one "official" fix. You only need to be observant here not a mechanic. When you remove the top look for residue where surfaces have rubbed together or places that hard surfaces can come in contact during body flex. Use a proper weather seal lubricant such as a wax stick. Adjust the mount and lock downs to provide proper space between the chaffing parts. Note that there have been some end play in the clamp rollers that have created the problem. The fix will be simple when you find it and much easier than a trip to the dealer. Tip, cut a small piece of flexible plastic from a container, like a corn oil bottle, and put it in between the surfaces that may look like they are the problem when you replace your top and then it can be moved to find the actual offending spot.

As for the brakes there is and always has been a break in method for them. Most of the time on a new car that kind of instruction is ignored by the driver and most likely not even mentioned by the dealer. Simply put - No continuous hard braking for the first 1,000 miles. Used to be 4/500 miles but the harder pads need more bedding time. Break in is mentioned on page 2-19 of my owners manual but only for the first 200 miles, very optimistic. My guess would be that they did not "cut the rotors" as they have little material to spare. Best guess is that they cleaned glaze off the surface without cutting them. What that did for you was correct only a portion of the problem, the pads still have a glazed surface to make them screech. So in a short time the glaze is re-established on the rotor and it back to screeching all the time. I have cleaned both rotors and pads with an abrasive but you need a high pressure clean and then a solvent clean to make sure you don't leave any abrasive in the pads. Then bed them properly and the screeching is gone. I have never needed to install shims but now some ceramic pads do come with them already installed.

Only one GM vehicle has had a brake problem for me and I've owned my share of them. Under warranty I would take it back in and when I got it back it ran fine, for a while. Then the noise/vibration would return. I finally got tired of taking it to the dealer and remover the rotor that I thought was the problem. On the back side where it was out of sight there was an obvious hard spot in the cast rotor. That hard spot was the reason the brakes were glazing. I replaced the rotors and cleaned the pads, that was 3 years ago and I have had no more problems but am still amazed how smooth and quiet the brakes are (Power Slot). My cost $160 and no dealer headache, waiting on the service dept. or dropping it off and or listening to them tell me how I wasn't driving it right, geeze, get a life lady......

Yes, it would be nice if they would advise you of the proper way to drive on new brakes but it is much more profitable to just skip it and keep you ignorant of the procedure. Take a look...... http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85
"Andrew DeFaria" > wrote in message ...
Dad wrote:
I have the transparent top that has been quiet so far by just latching it down properly and keeping the seals clean and treated. Your top may just need an adjustment and the fix that has been used on some of them that have squeaked, not a hard job, told you about it before, did you do anything?
As I said "I've had that applied" meaning I've had the fix that GM had specified for this problem applied. It didn't help.

As for the brakes, did you break then in properly? Most likely not, after all it's a $50K car and it can be driven any old way the owner wants, right? My guess is that you have glazed the pads by improper break in diving. Simple job to remove the glaze and then break in your brakes properly. I'm nearing 40K miles on my C6 and they are starting to show some wear but I have never heard a brake squeal/squeak yet.
I'm not a mechanic. I was not told to do any "break in" or brakes. I've never done any break in of brakes on any new car I've ever owned and no new car that I've owned ever squeaked this much. If break in is required then the purchaser should be informed. Additionally I took the car in and mentioned the problem. The dealer said they "cut the rotors" and that helped - but only for a few weeks. At another service appointment I mentioned it again and they were like "Well that's just how they are some times and we can do a complete break job if you like". If removal of the glaze and break in is required then shouldn't the service tech perform that when informed of the problem?!?

--
Andrew DeFaria
Friends help you move. Real friends help you move bodies.

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A GM fix is a paid activity for the dealer and they could care less if it fixes your problem as the next visit under warranty is also paid, get the drift here?

I get your drift. I, however, respectfully disagree. They could, should and probably do care. Customer satisfaction. Look it up. And stop being so cynical... Dad!


Plus they have had more than one "official" fix. You only need to be observant here not a mechanic. When you remove the top look for residue where surfaces have rubbed together or places that hard surfaces can come in contact during body flex. Use a proper weather seal lubricant such as a wax stick.

Obviously I need to be a mechanic. Weather seal, to me, goes onto things like weather stripping. There is no weather stripping here.


Adjust the mount and lock downs to provide proper space between the chaffing parts. Note that there have been some end play in the clamp rollers that have created the problem.Â*The fix will be simple when you find it and much easier than a trip to the dealer. Tip, cut a small piece of flexible plastic from a container, like a corn oil bottle,

What the **** is a "corn oil bottle"?


and put it in between the surfaces that may look like they are theÂ*problem when you replace your topÂ*and thenÂ*it can be moved to find the actual offending spot.

Shall I teach you how to build OS kernels? I think not. The above sure sounds like mechnic'ing to me...


As for the brakes there is and always has been a break in method for them.

Maybe. Of course the dealer could do that for the customer. From what I've read it's not a difficult nor long procedure.


Most of the time on a new car that kind of instruction is ignored by the driver and most likely not even mentioned by the dealer.

Correction s/Most/All/. Surely if I'm expected, as a non-mechanic, to get your instructions above you must be able, as a non-programmer, to discern exactly what s/Most/All means... Daddyo! ;-)


Simply put - No continuous hard braking for the first 1,000 miles.

That's not what I read...


Used to be 4/500 miles but the harder pads need more bedding time. Break in is mentioned on page 2-19 ofÂ*my owners manual but only for the first 200 miles, very optimistic. My guess would be that they did not "cut the rotors" as they have little material to spare.

That's exactly what they told me. Those liars!


Best guess is that they cleaned glaze off the surface without cutting them. What that did for you was correct only a portion of the problem, the pads still have a glazed surface to make them screech. So in a short time the glaze is re-established on the rotor and it back to screeching all the time. I have cleaned both rotors and pads with an abrasive but you need a high pressure clean and then a solvent clean to make sure you don't leave any abrasive in the pads. Then bed them properly and the screeching is gone. I have never needed to install shims but now some ceramic pads do come with them already installed.

None of this should the concern of the non-mechanic driver - period - end of story. Get the brakes right when the car is delivered.


Only one GM vehicle has had a brake problem for me and I've owned my share of them. Under warranty I would take it back in and when I got it back it ran fine, for a while. Then the noise/vibration would return. I finally got tired of taking it to the dealer and remover the rotor that I thought was the problem. On the back side where it was out of sight there was an obvious hard spot in the cast rotor. That hard spot was the reason the brakes were glazing. I replaced the rotors and cleaned the pads, that was 3 years ago and I have had no more problems but am still amazed how smooth and quiet the brakes are (Power Slot). My cost $160 and no dealer headache, waiting on the service dept. or dropping it off and or listening to them tell me how I wasn't driving it right, geeze, get a life lady......

As I said, never in my life has any other new car had this problem. That says something...


Yes, it would be nice if they would advise you of the proper way to drive on new brakes but it is much more profitable to just skip it and keep you ignorant of the procedure. Take a look...... http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85

It would be nice if they could develop a proper braking system that doesn't need "breaking in". Such a concept is a little silly with modern technologies wouldn't you think. Next you'll be telling me to get out of the car and crank it up... Have some vision..


--
Andrew DeFaria
Why is it called "after dark" when it really is "after light"?

Sorry, you have been doing so well without my interference, good luck
on getting GM or any brake manufacture to develop a proper braking
system that doesn't need "breaking in". There is a simple answer to
your problem but...........

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The simple answer to my problem, if break in is required, is to not put that duty onto the customer and instead perform that duty in the shop. It would be equivalent to handing the customer 4 new tires and saying "sorry but you'll have to put this on yourself"... Again, pointing to the fact that no other car I've ever driven has required this nor has had the same squeaking problem lends credence to the fact that others manage to pull off this effective miracle in your eyes without much effort. Of course as the customer of a +$50K sports car I am obviously asking for too much. I guess there's a reason why Chevy's in the crapper...


--
Andrew DeFaria
If you think nobody cares about you, try missing a couple of payments.

Can't disagree with you more, and it's not like giving you tires and
telling you to put them on yourself, what an uninformed analogy. By
the way, tires should be broken in also. Most all cars and brakes
should be broke in to some extent and state the same in their manuals.
You didn't read those in the other cars if you have purchased them new
either so I'm not surprised that you didn't read or act on the
instruction given in the Corvette manual. There are people and
yourself included that will buy a new car and pay little or no
attention to instructions in the manual about the break in period. By
the fact that they just take it easy, because of it being new, gets
most past the brake break in with no problem. Then there are bone
headed people that think that it must prove it's self right out of the
shute. No miracle involved, just the way it is wheather you like it or
not.

What you just said is that it would be fine with you to buy your new
Corvette with 200/1,000 miles on it so you wouldn't have to read the
manual.

Sorry to have bothered you with the facts, as you don't accept them
anyway, so good luck butting your head aginst the walls in your
future.



>The simple answer to my problem, if break in is required, is to not
>put that duty onto the >customer and instead perform that duty in the
>shop. It would be equivalent to handing the >customer 4 new tires and
>saying "sorry but you'll have to put this on yourself"... Again,
> >pointing to the fact that no other car I've ever driven has required
>this nor has had the same >squeaking problem lends credence to the
>fact that others manage to pull off this effective >miracle in your
>eyes without much effort. Of course as the customer of a +$50K sports
>car I >am obviously asking for too much. I guess there's a reason why
>Chevy's in the crapper...--
>Andrew DeFaria If you think nobody cares about you, try missing a
>couple of payments.

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By the way, tires should be broken in also. Most all cars and brakes should be broke in to some extent and state the same in their manuals. You didn't read those in the other cars if you have purchased them new either so I'm not surprised that you didn't read or act on the instruction given in the Corvette manual. However what is surprising is that those other cars did not squeak. Now imagine that...
There are people and yourself included that will buy a new car and pay little or no attention to instructions in the manual about the break in period. Just like I find it amusing that people buy computers and fail to read about them also. As I said, I'm not a car expert nor mechanic. And it's not reasonable to expect your average car buyer to be, just like it's not reasonable for me to expect you to be an OS kernel expert.
By the fact that they just take it easy, because of it being new, gets most past the brake break in with no problem. Then there are bone headed people that think that it must prove it's self right out of the shute. No miracle involved, just the way it is wheather you like it or not.
Wheather[sic] I do indeed!
What you just said is that it would be fine with you to buy your new Corvette with 200/1,000 miles on it so you wouldn't have to read the manual.
Now you're putting words in my mouth...
Sorry to have bothered you with the facts, as you don't accept them anyway, so good luck butting your head aginst the walls in your future.
As to you too there daddio!


--
Andrew DeFaria
I used to have a handle on life, then it broke.

Wall, butt, butt, butt. Glad you pointed out that I got whether wrong,
but then no one called you on calling a brake a break, many, many
times, BUT then you are an OS kernel expert, what more could I ask
for? Your limited intelligence requires you to be right in this brake
problem but you're not and you never will be as long as you ignore the
facts.

Grow up child...

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And I might point out that while I may have used "brake" instead of "break", both words are spelled correctly whereas wheather is not spelled correctly at all. I therefore refer you to Ode to Spell Checker. This is not to say that I don't make spelling mistakes, just that it doesn't **** me off like it does you when somebody points out I made a mistake.
BUT then you are an OS kernel expert, Bzzzzt! Wrong! But Don Pardo tell him what lovely parting gifts he's entitled to. I never said I was an OS kernel expert. I said that you weren't but not that I was. You guessed - wrong - again...
what more could I ask for? How about accuracy? Nah that's asking for too much...
Your limited intelligence requires you to be right in this brake problem but you're not and you never will be as long as you ignore the facts.
I never claimed that - you did. Bzzzt! Wrong again. This seems to happen often to you... And it ****es you off so. What a shame....
Grow up child...
I'm already all grown up "dad". BTW: Assuming an anonymous handle of "dad" doesn't mean that you're grown up either. You obviously and immaturely cannot accept the fact that you are not perfect. I, OTOH, have already admitted my mistakes - a sign of a mature person.

That's enough though. Go argue and make a fool of yourself. Looks like my work is done here...

--
Andrew DeFaria
If people are good only because they fear punishment, and hope for reward, then we are a sorry lot indeed.

I know explicitly that it isnotmy power steering as I can change the
sounds of the top squeaking by moving the latches that keep the top in
place and I can make the breaks squeak or not by merely pressing the
breaks. I don't know why you would suggest power steering squeaking
based on my description...--Andrew DeFariaI used to have an open mind
but my brains kept falling out.
..
..
..
..
Sorry i was just trying to help