![]() |
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
This is going to sound like an obscure problem, but it's *my* problem,
so I'm going to give it a shot. I'm 99% certain that I'm going to be buying another old car in the near future. It's a '64 Studebaker, which are notorious for front fender rust-out. Now I would like to actually *drive* this car, and while it does come with NOS fenders, I'm not sure that they would last without some tlc. The problem is this, there's a vertical brace at the back of the fender that bolts to the body, the "skin" of the fender is crimped over this brace like a door skin, making a nice inaccessable "pocket" for rust to form in. I posted a query about this previously and someone suggested pouring in and sloshing around foundation coating to seal that area, and the more I think about it I like that idea. But I would like to have some kind of sealer on the metal below that, I don't particularly trust the factory black "primer" - I think it was probably just intended to keep the fender from rusting while it was sitting on the shelf in dry storage, and nothing more. Here's what I'm thinking - chemically strip the whole fender, including the "hidden" area with aircraft stripper, then etch the whole thing with a muriatic acid solution or other acid, then finally follow up with some DuPont or similar metal prep solution. Then paint the whole fender with an etching primer and/or epoxy primer (is the etching primer really a necessary step? or does anyone make an epoxy etching primer?) Here's where the questions come in, are there any primer/sealers that would be suitable for *pouring* into a hidden area and sloshing around to provide a good coating? Obviously I care not a bit about finish, this is an area that you can't even see unless you stick your head under the wheel well, and even the bits that you *can* see will probably be coated with undercoat after paint. Anyone more familiar with paint products that can give me some advice? If I were going to pour some primer/sealer in there, should I cut it with thinner or just pour it in undiluted? thanks, nate |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On 22 Oct 2004 07:57:14 -0700, (Nate Nagel) wrote:
If you want rust protection that really works: www.por15.com It's expensive, but classic car restorers swear by it. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
"John Ings" > wrote in message
... > On 22 Oct 2004 07:57:14 -0700, (Nate Nagel) wrote: > > If you want rust protection that really works: > > www.por15.com > > It's expensive, but classic car restorers swear by it. > > > .....and swear AT it when they get it on their hands (there's a reason why they tell you to wear gloves when applying it) I've used it - if you follow the directions to the letter it's excellent - just make sure it's topcoated with their primer because very little paint adheres to cured POR15 (think of it as how do they get the non-stick coating to stick to the frying pan.....) Cheers! Steve Sears 1980 Audi 5k - POR black on various spots 1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - POR silver on the floor, POR in the gas tank..... (SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply) |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]() John Ings wrote: > > On 22 Oct 2004 07:57:14 -0700, (Nate Nagel) wrote: > > If you want rust protection that really works: > > www.por15.com > > It's expensive, but classic car restorers swear by it. I just saw EFR in JC Whitney that claims to be similar http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/C...searchbtn.y=19 .. Anyone have experience with this? |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 14:36:22 -0500, bob > wrote:
>> If you want rust protection that really works: >> >> www.por15.com >> >> It's expensive, but classic car restorers swear by it. > >I just saw EFR in JC Whitney that claims to be similar >http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/C...searchbtn.y=19 >. Anyone have experience with this? "Ultraviolet-sensitive" and "must be second-coated with any other paint to protect finish from sunlight." That sort of hints that it might be similar. POR-15 is distantly related to crazy-glue. It's a hard plasic that is truly impervious to penetration by water. You would think that paint is waterproof, but it isn't completely so, and even 99% waterproof isn't good enough if you're driving in brine slush. The "must be coated" warning by-the-way, is only about appearance. POR-15 left uncoated and exposed to UV becomes weathered looking and greyish, but its integrity is not compromised. Bonus: POR-15 and fibreglass cloth works as well or better than epoxy and fibreglass cloth. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
John Ings wrote:
> On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 14:36:22 -0500, bob > wrote: > > >>>If you want rust protection that really works: >>> >>>www.por15.com >>> >>>It's expensive, but classic car restorers swear by it. >> >>I just saw EFR in JC Whitney that claims to be similar >>http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/C...searchbtn.y=19 >>. Anyone have experience with this? > > > "Ultraviolet-sensitive" and "must be second-coated with any other > paint to protect finish from sunlight." > > That sort of hints that it might be similar. POR-15 is distantly > related to crazy-glue. It's a hard plasic that is truly impervious to > penetration by water. You would think that paint is waterproof, but it > isn't completely so, and even 99% waterproof isn't good enough if > you're driving in brine slush. > > The "must be coated" warning by-the-way, is only about appearance. > POR-15 left uncoated and exposed to UV becomes weathered looking and > greyish, but its integrity is not compromised. > > Bonus: POR-15 and fibreglass cloth works as well or better than epoxy > and fibreglass cloth. > I'll second all those comments, I've done the 'glass trick too. I guess I'm just a little concerned about adhesion to metal that I have no way of roughing up, or really prepping any way other than chemically for that matter. nate -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004 16:31:44 -0400, Nate Nagel >
wrote: > I guess >I'm just a little concerned about adhesion to metal that I have no way >of roughing up, or really prepping any way other than chemically for >that matter. Then give it an etch with naval jelly or other phosphoric acid product and then a good rinse. If you think there's already a light rust in there, just POR-15 it. POR-15 likes rusted surfaces. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]() Just this past weekend, I saw a completely unrusted *1978 Plymouth Caravelle "woodie" wagon*. That is a Canadian-market badge-up of the F-body Plymouth Volare/Dodge Aspen. These cars, while they weren't *quite* as bad as the Chevrolet Vega, were practically made out of compressed rust. One seldom sees such a car as this in any condition here in Toronto, which sees heavy road salt four to five months out of the year. There was a "Rustproofed with Waxoyl" sticker in the lower left corner of the windshield; the condition of the car is quite a high recommendation for that product. FWIW, of course. |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Daniel J. Stern wrote:
> Just this past weekend, I saw a completely unrusted *1978 Plymouth > Caravelle "woodie" wagon*. That is a Canadian-market badge-up of the > F-body Plymouth Volare/Dodge Aspen. These cars, while they weren't *quite* > as bad as the Chevrolet Vega, were practically made out of compressed > rust. One seldom sees such a car as this in any condition here in Toronto, > which sees heavy road salt four to five months out of the year. > > There was a "Rustproofed with Waxoyl" sticker in the lower left corner of > the windshield; the condition of the car is quite a high recommendation > for that product. > > FWIW, of course. Yeesh. Yeah, I remember those things... when I was a *real* little kid, I remember the neighbors across the street bought a Volare wagon. The front fenders were literally rusted through in a year. One of the only cars I've seen that seems to rust faster than an old Studebaker. This Waxoyl stuff, is it a paraffin based coating like the Germans are using now? I like that stuff. nate -- replace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
On Fri, 22 Oct 2004, Nate Nagel wrote:
> Yeesh. Yeah, I remember those things... when I was a *real* little kid, > I remember the neighbors across the street bought a Volare wagon. The > front fenders were literally rusted through in a year. Only a year? They got one of the good ones... (When it came time for my folks to trade in their bought-new '70 Dart, they went back to the Dodge dealer, who redfacedly apologized during the test drive as they rattled their way through a test drive of a new '78 Aspen. Window cranks fell off, shift levers flopped, the works. They bought a new '78 Caprice.) > This Waxoyl stuff, is it a paraffin based coating like the Germans are > using now? I like that stuff. It's been around for decades. www.waxoyl.com ; think the stuff is called "Waxoyl Hardwax". Or do a Google search on it. |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Best Home Base Work | Reynard | 4x4 | 0 | November 10th 04 02:27 AM |
Subject: Traffic School - online traffic school experience response | [email protected] | Corvette | 0 | October 9th 04 05:56 PM |
JEEP question - 4.0 vs 4.0HO | James Morrow | 4x4 | 12 | June 2nd 04 05:16 PM |
WE DO Custom 24kt. GOLD PLATING on your AUTO - HOME - EVERYWHERE! | Goldies Gold Plating | Alfa Romeo | 0 | April 28th 04 01:32 AM |