Air Conditioning BMW325i 1989

Hello everyone,

I had my freon recharged and my air conditioning system checked for
leaks last Friday. There were no leaks and my freon level was very
low- since been fixed- however, my air conditioning does not work- the
'blue light' is active and the idle speed changes when it is pushed.
The mechanic says it's a possible blockage and wanted me to authorize a
few hours labor to fix it, I am very reluctant to do so. Any ideas why
the ac is not activating? Any help would be appreciated, I am by no
means a car expert, so if one were to suggest, for example, that I
short the compressor, I would have no idea how to do so w/o/ more
detailed instructions.

Thanks!

-STEVE

Steve wrote:
> Hello everyone,
>
> I had my freon recharged and my air conditioning system checked for
> leaks last Friday. There were no leaks and my freon level was very
> low- since been fixed- however, my air conditioning does not work-

What do you mean "does not work"? Does it blow air, but it's not cool?
Blower not working at all?

> 'blue light' is active and the idle speed changes when it is pushed.

That should indicate the clutch is working and the compressor is
turning. Check to be sure. The clutch should energize with a solid
click, and the center should rotate with the pulley. Then a few seconds
later it should release with another click, idle speed changes, and the
center is stationary while the pulley continues to turn.

> The mechanic says it's a possible blockage and wanted me to authorize a
> few hours labor to fix it, I am very reluctant to do so. Any ideas why
> the ac is not activating? Any help would be appreciated, I am by no
> means a car expert, so if one were to suggest, for example, that I
> short the compressor, I would have no idea how to do so w/o/ more
> detailed instructions.

If freon level is good, compressor is turning, but no cooling, it could
be a blockage, either in the Accumulator/drier or possibly in the
orifice. Not sure what these cars use, but last I looked most cars used
a variation on the GM/Ford systems.

If it's blowing hot air, it could be a bad heater valve stuck open, or
mixer door in the ducts not working. Either of those could be due to a
vacuum loss- loose hose etc. Either can usually be worked manually to
get some cool until a proper repair is available.

"Steve" > wrote
> I had my freon recharged and my air conditioning system checked for
> leaks last Friday. There were no leaks and my freon level was very
> low- since been fixed- however, my air conditioning does not work- the
> 'blue light' is active and the idle speed changes when it is pushed.
> The mechanic says it's a possible blockage and wanted me to authorize a
> few hours labor to fix it, I am very reluctant to do so. Any ideas why
> the ac is not activating? Any help would be appreciated, I am by no
> means a car expert, so if one were to suggest, for example, that I
> short the compressor, I would have no idea how to do so w/o/ more
> detailed instructions.

Rex has some good stuff in his post - be sure to check to see if
bubbles and fluid fills the window in the top of the dryer when
you turn on the a/c.

Additionally, you say "freon". That system did indeed use R12
when new. However, it's pretty hard to get any more - are you
sure your mechanic used R12 and not R34a? It would not
be good to use the wrong charge (R12 in a system converted
to R34a or R34a in a system not yet converted.)

FloydR

On Tue, 30 May 2006 09:56:50 -0700, "Floyd Rogers"
> wrote:

>Rex has some good stuff in his post - be sure to check to see if
>bubbles and fluid fills the window in the top of the dryer when
>you turn on the a/c.
>
>Additionally, you say "freon". That system did indeed use R12
>when new. However, it's pretty hard to get any more - are you
>sure your mechanic used R12 and not R34a? It would not
>be good to use the wrong charge (R12 in a system converted
>to R34a or R34a in a system not yet converted.)

On a related note, the AC in my e30 was shot when I bought it. I've
had other old GM cars converted to R134a at *kinda* reasonable cost -
anyone know what it takes in time, parts and $$ to convert an e30?

I calculated that I would be ahead in the game after the second
refrigerant recharge with the last conversion I had done...
--
Dan.

Dean Dark wrote:
>
> On a related note, the AC in my e30 was shot when I bought it. I've
> had other old GM cars converted to R134a at *kinda* reasonable cost -
> anyone know what it takes in time, parts and $$ to convert an e30?
>
> I calculated that I would be ahead in the game after the second
> refrigerant recharge with the last conversion I had done...

I have heard a lot of reports for successful conversion of lots of
different vehicles, with no changes whatsoever. Just charge it with
R-134a. It would cost you the price of the R134a. Worst case is you'd
have to do all the things you expected to do in the first place - change
all O-rings, drier/accumulator & compressor. Success rate gets better as
the year-model gets later.
YMMV

IF the OP is interested in converting to R134a, the first thing he
should do is check to see whether his compressor is compatible.
According to Brett Anderson, the following cars DO NOT have compatible
AC compressors:

The following vehicles DO NOT have R134a compatible AC compressors
E30
318i (7/85 - 8/85)
325e, 325i, 325iC (7/87 - 10/88)
325iX, M3
E28
528e (7/85 - 3/87)
535i (7/85 - 12/87)
M5 (9/87 - 11/87)
E24
All
E23
All

For Brett's excellent article on R134a conversion, READ:

http://www.koalamotorsport.com/artic...nditioning.asp

"Rex B" > wrote
> Dean Dark wrote:
>>
>> On a related note, the AC in my e30 was shot when I bought it. I've
>> had other old GM cars converted to R134a at *kinda* reasonable cost -
>> anyone know what it takes in time, parts and $$ to convert an e30?
>
> I have heard a lot of reports for successful conversion of lots of
> different vehicles, with no changes whatsoever. Just charge it with
> R-134a. It would cost you the price of the R134a. Worst case is you'd have
> to do all the things you expected to do in the first place - change all
> O-rings, drier/accumulator & compressor. Success rate gets better as the
> year-model gets later.
> YMMV

Brett has an article at:
http://www.koalamotorsport.com/artic...nditioning.asp
Doesn't look like "drop-in" works for an E30.

FloydR

Okay, first off, thanks to everyone who offered their advice-

to clarify- the vent blows air, but not cold air, and I do use r12, I
don't believe I needed to retrofit.

I took the car to a second mechanic, whom I trust, who told me that the
compressor is busted and needs to be replaced, which is fair enough, I
suppose. What bothers me though is that he said he needs to put freon
in again after he changes the compressor, because, since it was shot,
it was not circulating the freon, and the orginal mechanic effectively
filled it with air, that is, I still need freon, and I effectively
threw money away going to the first mechanic.

Does this stuff sound right to anyone out there? As I said, I'm not
very knowledgable about this subject.

Thanks.

-STEVE

On Tue, 30 May 2006 14:31:01 -0700, "Floyd Rogers"
> wrote:

>"Rex B" > wrote
>> Dean Dark wrote:
>>>
>>> On a related note, the AC in my e30 was shot when I bought it. I've
>>> had other old GM cars converted to R134a at *kinda* reasonable cost -
>>> anyone know what it takes in time, parts and $$ to convert an e30?
>>
>
>Brett has an article at:
>http://www.koalamotorsport.com/artic...nditioning.asp
>Doesn't look like "drop-in" works for an E30.

Many thanks to you and bfd for that link. Duly bookmarked.

Once I've sorted the completely shagged suspension, I'll go back to
the AC.
--
Dan.

Steve wrote:
> Okay, first off, thanks to everyone who offered their advice-
>
> to clarify- the vent blows air, but not cold air, and I do use r12, I
> don't believe I needed to retrofit.
>
> I took the car to a second mechanic, whom I trust, who told me that the
> compressor is busted and needs to be replaced, which is fair enough, I
> suppose. What bothers me though is that he said he needs to put freon
> in again after he changes the compressor, because, since it was shot,
> it was not circulating the freon, and the orginal mechanic effectively
> filled it with air, that is, I still need freon, and I effectively
> threw money away going to the first mechanic.
>
> Does this stuff sound right to anyone out there? As I said, I'm not
> very knowledgable about this subject.

I'm curious how he determined it was "busted". Perhaps a valve failed
internally and it's just bypassing/not pumping? If it's still turning
and not making noise, that's good. If you want to check it yourself,
you can buy an inexpensive gauge that looks like a pencil tire gauge. I
don't recall the High/low pressures, but they are pretty much the same
for all R12 cars.
I don't buy that part about filling it with air. The SOP is to pull
a vacuum, then insert refrigerant. I can't think of a way to screw that
up and end up with air instead.
But invariably, you will be charged with a new compressor, a new
receiver/drier/accumulator, flushing the system, probably a new orifice
(no comment), and new freon. Most shops will want to change you to
R-134a or an R12 substitute rather than try to source R12.
If you happen to be in the DFW area and need some R12, I have a
little left that I hoarded years ago, and am now selling. I won't ship it.

Rex