1996 XJ Clunk, Clunk, Clunk

I read somewhere that the driveshaft on a 4WD can cause a clunk,
clunk, clunk noise if its been driven in 4WD on hard pavement . . .
and when that happens, you drive it in 4WD and Reverse to fix the
problem. Well, I didn't drive in 4WD on dry pavement, but my 96 XJ
suddenly has a Clunk, Clunk, Clunk noise, and I'm wondering what it
might be. Also, I can't work on it myself, so I'll have to take it to
a Mechanic if it's something serious. Any suggestions?

Muffler or tailpipe hitting? That is common.

The rear driveshaft has a slip joint on some that needs greasing
regularly or it can clunk.

A blown shock bushing or shock can also clunk.

A blown U-joint can also clunk just before it drops the driveshaft on
the ground... Watched a friend's truck pole vault the driveshaft and
almost flip when his hit the ground and caught. To check that, block
the wheels and put it in neutral, then reach under and see if the ends
of the driveshaft are loose.

Mike
2000 Cherokee Sport
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and
Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com

bw-fl wrote:
> I read somewhere that the driveshaft on a 4WD can cause a clunk,
> clunk, clunk noise if its been driven in 4WD on hard pavement . . .
> and when that happens, you drive it in 4WD and Reverse to fix the
> problem. Well, I didn't drive in 4WD on dry pavement, but my 96 XJ
> suddenly has a Clunk, Clunk, Clunk noise, and I'm wondering what it
> might be. Also, I can't work on it myself, so I'll have to take it to
> a Mechanic if it's something serious. Any suggestions?

What Mike said and at the very least have all U-Joints, including that slip
joint, greased by an intelligent/thorough "grease monkey" NOW to see if it
changes anything. <g>
Watch if you can there, should be many (possibly over 8) grease fittings to
do. ;-)
Bad/rusty joints will have brown grease coming through and maybe water too.

Not too sure if those quick oil change places actually do this although they
claim to.
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto


"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
. ..
> Muffler or tailpipe hitting? That is common.
>
> The rear driveshaft has a slip joint on some that needs greasing regularly
> or it can clunk.
>
> A blown shock bushing or shock can also clunk.
>
> A blown U-joint can also clunk just before it drops the driveshaft on the
> ground... Watched a friend's truck pole vault the driveshaft and almost
> flip when his hit the ground and caught. To check that, block the wheels
> and put it in neutral, then reach under and see if the ends of the
> driveshaft are loose.
>
> Mike
> 2000 Cherokee Sport
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and
> Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>
> bw-fl wrote:
>> I read somewhere that the driveshaft on a 4WD can cause a clunk,
>> clunk, clunk noise if its been driven in 4WD on hard pavement . . .
>> and when that happens, you drive it in 4WD and Reverse to fix the
>> problem. Well, I didn't drive in 4WD on dry pavement, but my 96 XJ
>> suddenly has a Clunk, Clunk, Clunk noise, and I'm wondering what it
>> might be. Also, I can't work on it myself, so I'll have to take it to
>> a Mechanic if it's something serious. Any suggestions?
>

Thanks Mike and Dave for the suggestions. Here's what I found out
yesterday. A Mechanic told me that the seal where the driveshaft
enters the front axle is "blown out" and that grease is being thrown
around. He also said that he found metal shavings in there. The
estimate is at least $300 just to open it up, plus the cost for any
dmaged bearings, gears, etc. that might need to be rerplaced. Does
that sound right, and should I get a second opinion?

Well my front axle slip joint throws grease around.

The front diff doesn't have grease, it has gear oil....

The front driveshaft shouldn't be moving at all when you are driving on
the street, but I could see the slip joint still moving in and out over
bumps.

Sounds wrong somehow.

Mike
2000 Cherokee Sport
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and
Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com


bw-fl wrote:
> Thanks Mike and Dave for the suggestions. Here's what I found out
> yesterday. A Mechanic told me that the seal where the driveshaft
> enters the front axle is "blown out" and that grease is being thrown
> around. He also said that he found metal shavings in there. The
> estimate is at least $300 just to open it up, plus the cost for any
> dmaged bearings, gears, etc. that might need to be rerplaced. Does
> that sound right, and should I get a second opinion?

Mike Romain wrote:
> Well my front axle slip joint throws grease around.
>
> The front diff doesn't have grease, it has gear oil....
>
> The front driveshaft shouldn't be moving at all when you are driving
> on the street, but I could see the slip joint still moving in and out
> over bumps.
>
> Sounds wrong somehow.
>
> Mike
> 2000 Cherokee Sport
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 'New' frame and everything else in '09. Some Canadian Bush Trip and
> Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com
>
>
> bw-fl wrote:
>> Thanks Mike and Dave for the suggestions. Here's what I found out
>> yesterday. A Mechanic told me that the seal where the driveshaft
>> enters the front axle is "blown out" and that grease is being thrown
>> around. He also said that he found metal shavings in there. The
>> estimate is at least $300 just to open it up, plus the cost for any
>> dmaged bearings, gears, etc. that might need to be rerplaced. Does
>> that sound right, and should I get a second opinion?

Well, $300 just to "open it up" screams RUN AWAY.

Actually it screams "dealer pricing" as that's roughly
what they wanted to change the oil in my diffs. Bugger that!

Now if that's the total labor cost, no matter what they find,
then possibly, but still it seems too high.
A rebuid kit runs about $100 but that does not contain the
ring or pinion gears. If those are damaged then the cost
goes up another $350 or so.

A junker front axle can often be cheaper than a rebuild.


--
DougW

$300 sounds like the labor charge and then add the cost of parts.
Is that right? If so I don't think that is bad if you get a good long
warranty!
Check out parts prices to make sure that they aren't going to be exorbitant!

AND I agree that you should be able to compare the rebuild to the price of
installing a used one in there.
Of course if YOU do the work, labor shouldn't kill you! :-)

I like to shop around so you don't pay too much but ALWAYS use a recommended
shop!!!!

JMHO
--
later,
dave AKA vwdoc1
88 XJ 4.0 auto


"DougW" > wrote in message
...
>> bw-fl wrote:
>>> Thanks Mike and Dave for the suggestions. Here's what I found out
>>> yesterday. A Mechanic told me that the seal where the driveshaft
>>> enters the front axle is "blown out" and that grease is being thrown
>>> around. He also said that he found metal shavings in there. The
>>> estimate is at least $300 just to open it up, plus the cost for any
>>> dmaged bearings, gears, etc. that might need to be rerplaced. Does
>>> that sound right, and should I get a second opinion?
>
> Well, $300 just to "open it up" screams RUN AWAY.
>
> Actually it screams "dealer pricing" as that's roughly
> what they wanted to change the oil in my diffs. Bugger that!
>
> Now if that's the total labor cost, no matter what they find,
> then possibly, but still it seems too high.
> A rebuid kit runs about $100 but that does not contain the
> ring or pinion gears. If those are damaged then the cost
> goes up another $350 or so.
>
> A junker front axle can often be cheaper than a rebuild.
>
>
> --
> DougW
>
>

Did the new control arms include new ball joints?

Have you made sure the bolts that hold the spindle on the ball joint/control arm are tight? If these are not torqued really well they will make a clunk noise.

What about the axles?

On Friday, I took it to another place for a 2nd opinion. They drove
it, but couldn't duplicate the intermittent clunk. They put it on the
lift and examined the axle, wheels, U-joints, etc., and said
everything looked OK. The seal on the front driveshaft was bad so they
replaced it. They also fixed my rattling cat converter by driving a
screw up into it. The total charge was $50, which I thought was OK. If
it clunks again, I'll take it back to those guys along with the email
suggestions you all have given me. Thanks!!!

bw-fl wrote:
> On Friday, I took it to another place for a 2nd opinion. They drove
> it, but couldn't duplicate the intermittent clunk. They put it on the
> lift and examined the axle, wheels, U-joints, etc., and said
> everything looked OK. The seal on the front driveshaft was bad so they
> replaced it. They also fixed my rattling cat converter by driving a
> screw up into it. The total charge was $50, which I thought was OK. If
> it clunks again, I'll take it back to those guys along with the email
> suggestions you all have given me. Thanks!!!

Sometimes clunks come from strange and distant locations. Take a close
look at your motor mounts. If they have sunk with age (and they do)
then the engine or transmission might be bumping up against something.

http://www.revbeergoggles.com/motormount/

I would stick with OEM. The aftermarket ones from NAPA
just don't seem to be built with the same amount of rubber.
(Might be wrong, but the last set I got was from NAPA, in
a few years time will tell)

I get my parts from CPD http://www.chryslerpartsdirect.com/


--
-- DougW -- 93 ZJ 4.0 http://revbeergoggles.com
HESCO Supercharger - 300W IASCA Stereo - Edelbrock IAS Shocks
Gibson Exhaust - rear DCpower - custom gauge install - Stillen Rotors
Banks Header - and BEER, in the fridge!