new radiator but no heat

I installed a new radiator in my 99 chrysler concorde with at 3.2
litre engine. Everything is working fine but I noticed that I'm not
getting heat from the system. I sometimes notice that the floor on the
dirver side of the car is wet. Any suggestions will be appriciated.

Thanks,
Drew

In article
>,
wrote:

> I installed a new radiator in my 99 chrysler concorde with at 3.2
> litre engine. Everything is working fine but I noticed that I'm not
> getting heat from the system. I sometimes notice that the floor on the
> dirver side of the car is wet. Any suggestions will be appriciated.
>
> Thanks,
> Drew

Did you have heat before you changed the radiator?

On Sep 2, 8:47*am, aarcuda69062 > wrote:
> In article
> >,
>
> wrote:
> > I installed a new radiator in my 99 chrysler concorde with at 3.2
> > litre engine. *Everything is working fine but I noticed that I'm not
> > getting heat from the system. I sometimes notice that the floor on the
> > dirver side *of the car is wet. Any suggestions will be appriciated.
>
> > Thanks,
> > Drew
>
> Did you have heat before you changed the radiator?


Yes, I forgot to mention that I had the water pump changed also. I had
heat during last winter, but being that the weather is warm I did not
have to use the heater. As far as I know the heat was working at the
time the changes were made.

The simplest possible cause for this no heat condition is trapped air in the
cooling system. Make sure all the air is out by filling with 50/50 mix and
using the bleeder valve to release the air. If the coolant is filled to the
proper level and there is no trapped air, then check./feel the inlet and
outlet hoses going to the heater core near the firewall while you have the
system set to call for full heat and the engine is hot and running. If you
find the inlet hose is hot and the outlet hose is much cooler, then you
could have blockage in the heater core. If the hoses are roughly the same
temperature, then verify that your thermostat is the correct temperature
(should be 195 degrees F I believe, but check the FSM) and that it was
oriented/installed correctly. If all this checks out and both hoses to/from
the heater core are hot, then make sure the air flow door and blower inside
the vehicle (under the dash) is operating correctly.

Good Luck!

Bob

> wrote in message
...
On Sep 2, 8:47 am, aarcuda69062 > wrote:
> In article
> >,
>
> wrote:
> > I installed a new radiator in my 99 chrysler concorde with at 3.2
> > litre engine. Everything is working fine but I noticed that I'm not
> > getting heat from the system. I sometimes notice that the floor on the
> > dirver side of the car is wet. Any suggestions will be appriciated.
>
> > Thanks,
> > Drew
>
> Did you have heat before you changed the radiator?


Yes, I forgot to mention that I had the water pump changed also. I had
heat during last winter, but being that the weather is warm I did not
have to use the heater. As far as I know the heat was working at the
time the changes were made.

In article
>,
wrote:

> On Sep 2, 8:47*am, aarcuda69062 > wrote:
> > In article
> > >,
> >
> > wrote:
> > > I installed a new radiator in my 99 chrysler concorde with at 3.2
> > > litre engine. *Everything is working fine but I noticed that I'm not
> > > getting heat from the system. I sometimes notice that the floor on the
> > > dirver side *of the car is wet. Any suggestions will be appriciated.
> >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Drew
> >
> > Did you have heat before you changed the radiator?
>
>
> Yes, I forgot to mention that I had the water pump changed also. I had
> heat during last winter, but being that the weather is warm I did not
> have to use the heater. As far as I know the heat was working at the
> time the changes were made.

Based on your statement that you're getting water on the drivers side
floor, my guess is that the condensate isn't draining from the HVAC
module when the air conditioning is running, the excess water has found
its way into the blend door servo and caused it to rust tight.

If you dial in different temperatures on the HVAC control head, do you
hear any change in the way the HVAC fan sounds?

Bob Shuman wrote:
> The simplest possible cause for this no heat condition is trapped air in the
> cooling system. Make sure all the air is out by filling with 50/50 mix and
> using the bleeder valve to release the air. If the coolant is filled to the
> proper level and there is no trapped air, then check./feel the inlet and
> outlet hoses going to the heater core near the firewall while you have the
> system set to call for full heat and the engine is hot and running. If you
> find the inlet hose is hot and the outlet hose is much cooler, then you
> could have blockage in the heater core. If the hoses are roughly the same
> temperature, then verify that your thermostat is the correct temperature
> (should be 195 degrees F I believe, but check the FSM) and that it was
> oriented/installed correctly. If all this checks out and both hoses to/from
> the heater core are hot, then make sure the air flow door and blower inside
> the vehicle (under the dash) is operating correctly.
>
> Good Luck!
>
> Bob

I agree - probably trapped air.

Hey Bob - which is the correct way to orient the thermostat on this
engine (careful - it's a trick question on two different levels).

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')

Bill,

The answer is to orient it the same way that the OEM part was installed when
you take it out. This is true of every thermostat ... whether you have the
FSM or not! The key is always to note the orientation before removing it
and comparing it to the new replacement part.

Bob

"Bill Putney" > wrote in message
...
> Bob Shuman wrote:
>> The simplest possible cause for this no heat condition is trapped air in
>> the cooling system. Make sure all the air is out by filling with 50/50
>> mix and using the bleeder valve to release the air. If the coolant is
>> filled to the proper level and there is no trapped air, then check./feel
>> the inlet and outlet hoses going to the heater core near the firewall
>> while you have the system set to call for full heat and the engine is hot
>> and running. If you find the inlet hose is hot and the outlet hose is
>> much cooler, then you could have blockage in the heater core. If the
>> hoses are roughly the same temperature, then verify that your thermostat
>> is the correct temperature (should be 195 degrees F I believe, but check
>> the FSM) and that it was oriented/installed correctly. If all this checks
>> out and both hoses to/from the heater core are hot, then make sure the
>> air flow door and blower inside the vehicle (under the dash) is operating
>> correctly.
>>
>> Good Luck!
>>
>> Bob
>
> I agree - probably trapped air.
>
> Hey Bob - which is the correct way to orient the thermostat on this engine
> (careful - it's a trick question on two different levels).
>
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address
> with the letter 'x')

Actually not in this case. The factory uses a "special" thermostat, and
they put the sensor/spring end away from the engine. The replacement
t-stats are different, and they go in the opposite way (sensor/spring
towards the engine - and that in fact is the way the FSM shows it.

You may already know this, but on the LH cars, the thermostat is on the
coolant *inlet* side of the engine (downstream side of the lower
radiator hose). But in any case, the cars come from the factory one
way, and the FSM for every year shows it the opposite way. Weird, eh?
In reality, I suspect it won't matter a lot - the warm up cycle may be
affected (slight delay or overshoot), but once the t-stat opens, it
should pretty much operate the same.

--
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')


>>
>> Hey Bob - which is the correct way to orient the thermostat on this
engine
>> (careful - it's a trick question on two different levels).
>>
>> Bill Putney
>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address
>> with the letter 'x')
>

Bob Shuman wrote:
> Bill,
>
> The answer is to orient it the same way that the OEM part was installed when
> you take it out. This is true of every thermostat ... whether you have the
> FSM or not! The key is always to note the orientation before removing it
> and comparing it to the new replacement part.
>
> Bob
>
> "Bill Putney" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Bob Shuman wrote:
>>> The simplest possible cause for this no heat condition is trapped air in
>>> the cooling system. Make sure all the air is out by filling with 50/50
>>> mix and using the bleeder valve to release the air. If the coolant is
>>> filled to the proper level and there is no trapped air, then check./feel
>>> the inlet and outlet hoses going to the heater core near the firewall
>>> while you have the system set to call for full heat and the engine is hot
>>> and running. If you find the inlet hose is hot and the outlet hose is
>>> much cooler, then you could have blockage in the heater core. If the
>>> hoses are roughly the same temperature, then verify that your thermostat
>>> is the correct temperature (should be 195 degrees F I believe, but check
>>> the FSM) and that it was oriented/installed correctly. If all this checks
>>> out and both hoses to/from the heater core are hot, then make sure the
>>> air flow door and blower inside the vehicle (under the dash) is operating
>>> correctly.
>>>
>>> Good Luck!
>>>
>>> Bob
>> I agree - probably trapped air.

>

Bill,

Thanks for the tutorial. My old 3.5L (1996 Eagle Vision TSI) which went to
my oldest son was a whole lot easier and had the T-Stat right in the housing
so only required 2 bolts be removed to access it. My other son now has the
old 2001 2.7L (Intrepid SE) which most likely has the design you describe.
I guess I will be doing that replacement in the not too distant future so
your description will come in handy. BTW, this design with the large spring
and special thermostat in the lower hose sounds very much like the 170
degree F thermostat used in my old 3.0L (1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT).

Bob

"Bill Putney" > wrote in message
...
> Actually not in this case. The factory uses a "special" thermostat, and
> they put the sensor/spring end away from the engine. The replacement
> t-stats are different, and they go in the opposite way (sensor/spring
> towards the engine - and that in fact is the way the FSM shows it.
>
> You may already know this, but on the LH cars, the thermostat is on the
> coolant *inlet* side of the engine (downstream side of the lower radiator
> hose). But in any case, the cars come from the factory one way, and the
> FSM for every year shows it the opposite way. Weird, eh? In reality, I
> suspect it won't matter a lot - the warm up cycle may be affected (slight
> delay or overshoot), but once the t-stat opens, it should pretty much
> operate the same.
>
> --
> Bill Putney
> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address
> with the letter 'x')
>
>
> >>
> >> Hey Bob - which is the correct way to orient the thermostat on this
> engine
> >> (careful - it's a trick question on two different levels).
> >>
> >> Bill Putney
> >> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
> address
> >> with the letter 'x')
> >
>
> Bob Shuman wrote:
>> Bill,
>>
>> The answer is to orient it the same way that the OEM part was installed
>> when you take it out. This is true of every thermostat ... whether you
>> have the FSM or not! The key is always to note the orientation before
>> removing it and comparing it to the new replacement part.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>> "Bill Putney" > wrote in message
>> ...
>>> Bob Shuman wrote:
>>>> The simplest possible cause for this no heat condition is trapped air
>>>> in the cooling system. Make sure all the air is out by filling with
>>>> 50/50 mix and using the bleeder valve to release the air. If the
>>>> coolant is filled to the proper level and there is no trapped air, then
>>>> check./feel the inlet and outlet hoses going to the heater core near
>>>> the firewall while you have the system set to call for full heat and
>>>> the engine is hot and running. If you find the inlet hose is hot and
>>>> the outlet hose is much cooler, then you could have blockage in the
>>>> heater core. If the hoses are roughly the same temperature, then
>>>> verify that your thermostat is the correct temperature (should be 195
>>>> degrees F I believe, but check the FSM) and that it was
>>>> oriented/installed correctly. If all this checks out and both hoses
>>>> to/from the heater core are hot, then make sure the air flow door and
>>>> blower inside the vehicle (under the dash) is operating correctly.
>>>>
>>>> Good Luck!
>>>>
>>>> Bob
>>> I agree - probably trapped air.
>
>>

Yes - it's a real PITA to change the thermostat in these engines - very
cramped spaces, just behind the alternator (access from underneath).

--
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')


Bob Shuman wrote:
> Bill,
>
> Thanks for the tutorial. My old 3.5L (1996 Eagle Vision TSI) which went to
> my oldest son was a whole lot easier and had the T-Stat right in the housing
> so only required 2 bolts be removed to access it. My other son now has the
> old 2001 2.7L (Intrepid SE) which most likely has the design you describe.
> I guess I will be doing that replacement in the not too distant future so
> your description will come in handy. BTW, this design with the large spring
> and special thermostat in the lower hose sounds very much like the 170
> degree F thermostat used in my old 3.0L (1991 Mitsubishi 3000GT).
>
> Bob
>
> "Bill Putney" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Actually not in this case. The factory uses a "special" thermostat, and
>> they put the sensor/spring end away from the engine. The replacement
>> t-stats are different, and they go in the opposite way (sensor/spring
>> towards the engine - and that in fact is the way the FSM shows it.
>>
>> You may already know this, but on the LH cars, the thermostat is on the
>> coolant *inlet* side of the engine (downstream side of the lower radiator
>> hose). But in any case, the cars come from the factory one way, and the
>> FSM for every year shows it the opposite way. Weird, eh? In reality, I
>> suspect it won't matter a lot - the warm up cycle may be affected (slight
>> delay or overshoot), but once the t-stat opens, it should pretty much
>> operate the same.
>>
>> --
>> Bill Putney
>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address
>> with the letter 'x')
>>
>>
>>>> Hey Bob - which is the correct way to orient the thermostat on this
>> engine
>>>> (careful - it's a trick question on two different levels).
>>>>
>>>> Bill Putney
>>>> (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
>> address
>>>> with the letter 'x')
>> Bob Shuman wrote:
>>> Bill,
>>>
>>> The answer is to orient it the same way that the OEM part was installed
>>> when you take it out. This is true of every thermostat ... whether you
>>> have the FSM or not! The key is always to note the orientation before
>>> removing it and comparing it to the new replacement part.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> "Bill Putney" > wrote in message
>>> ...
>>>> Bob Shuman wrote:
>>>>> The simplest possible cause for this no heat condition is trapped air
>>>>> in the cooling system. Make sure all the air is out by filling with
>>>>> 50/50 mix and using the bleeder valve to release the air. If the
>>>>> coolant is filled to the proper level and there is no trapped air, then
>>>>> check./feel the inlet and outlet hoses going to the heater core near
>>>>> the firewall while you have the system set to call for full heat and
>>>>> the engine is hot and running. If you find the inlet hose is hot and
>>>>> the outlet hose is much cooler, then you could have blockage in the
>>>>> heater core. If the hoses are roughly the same temperature, then
>>>>> verify that your thermostat is the correct temperature (should be 195
>>>>> degrees F I believe, but check the FSM) and that it was
>>>>> oriented/installed correctly. If all this checks out and both hoses
>>>>> to/from the heater core are hot, then make sure the air flow door and
>>>>> blower inside the vehicle (under the dash) is operating correctly.
>>>>>
>>>>> Good Luck!
>>>>>
>>>>> Bob
>>>> I agree - probably trapped air.
>
>