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Drum brakes - do you disconnect the parking brake cable?



 
 
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Old January 8th 18, 11:16 PM posted to alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
Clare Snyder
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Posts: 72
Default Drum brakes - do you disconnect the parking brake cable?

On Mon, 8 Jan 2018 19:03:54 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger
> wrote:

> On Mon, 08 Jan 2018 13:36:04 -0500,
> Clare Snyder wrote:
>
>> Take the vehicle to a mechanic and have the brakes professionally
>> repaired. You are not mentally equipped to do the job (not saying you
>> are stupid, but you don't understand the implications well enough to
>> do the job adequately.

>
>That may be true, but I think I should be mentally equipped for something
>as simple as a brake job (for example, I've done disc brakes for decades).
>I've just never touched a drum brake before so everything is new.
>
>That's why I'm doing my homework before tackling the job, which is why I
>ask you for advice.
>
>My main question was the PROCEDURE, which seems to not need me to
>disconnect the parking brake cable anywhere other than actually inside the
>drum assembly. That was the main question.



In all my years as a mechanic I always unhooked the e-brale linkage
from the cable on that style, and removed the whole assembly from the
backinplate as shown in your last picture - then reassebled with
whatever new parts were required. Check the cyls closely to make sure
nothing is sticking. Back off the handbrake cabke adjuster so it doies
not screw up the service brake adjustment, and after everything is
re-assembled and adjusted at the wheel end, look after the handbrake
adjustment/adjuster. Mage REAL sure the cabkes azre not hanging up
ANYWHERE or you will end up repkacing shoes again After 20 years it
would not surprise me at all if you need cyls and cables, but it IS a
Toyota and they are pretty high quality, dependable vehicles. (Iwas a
Toyota service manager for 10years)
>
>The secondary questions will abound, based on what people ask me, such as
>someone asked why I considered 295 mm to be 2mm on the safe side over the
>297 mm drum diameter.
>
>Also the implication that "something is wrong" is perfectly natural since
>the front bottom half is worn more than the rest after 175K miles, but it
>seems from Googling that this is normal on Toyota rear drum brakes.
>
>There's something in the math as shown here - but it's too triggy for me.
>https://s13.postimg.org/4g0jxrng7/diagram_0.jpg
>
>This is what someone wrote about why the Toyota wears in the front bottom
>https://s13.postimg.org/l3s1zwn93/diagram_1.jpg
>
>> You LIKELY need new cabvles, and ot cyls, and
>> or adjusters along with the shoes

>
>I would be happy to replace anything that seems bad, but nothing seems bad
>at this point other than the shoes are worn. Other than leaks (which I
>don't see, nor is there any indication of loss of brake fluid), what's the
>test for new cables, and cylinders and adusters?
>
>Here's a closeup of the adjuster:
>https://s13.postimg.org/senkcelrb/brakes_drum_1.jpg


Adjuster looks good, but clean and lube
>
>Here's a picture of the parking brake setup:
>https://s13.postimg.org/5egwznnt3/brakes_drum_2.jpg
>
>And a closeup of the parking brake cable:
>https://s13.postimg.org/b2n7qr2hz/brakes_drum_3.jpg
>
>What is the test for worn condition?


The cable MUST move easily and smoothly. Same with the cyl pistons. be
carefull not to pop them out but they should both push in easily and
you should be able to slide the pair of pistons easily back and forth
in the bore.
>
>> which you MOST CERTAINLY can NOT
>> just swithch positions.

>
>This is an important question, which you've now answered (as did someone
>else who said the larger shoe is the rear shoe). This means "rotation"
>every few years isn't possible.
>
>> The adjusters should have been backed off to
>> replace the drums.

>
>I see that now, as the drum required a good few mallet hits to get it back
>on. Not too many. But a few. Next time I'll turn the star adjuster before
>putting the drum back on.
>
>Thanks for the advice!

 




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