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#11
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No power, rough idle
The key point in Bla's advice (lots of good stuff, but didn't want this to
get lost since it is very important) here is to clean the corrosion off the ignition tower. This is most likely what is causing your rough idle. Also make sure all grounds cables are clean and tight as well. Good luck. Bob "BläBlä" . S!RCRE4P.C0M> wrote in message ... > In article >, crawroy @ > nbnet.nb.ca says... >> $70 was the dealer price. I got a set today at Canadian Tire for $30+tax. >> About the same as you paid for your 8 wires. They didn't help any so I >> guess >> I'm either getting a new distributor or going to get the codes read, >> whichever is cheaper. >> One of the terminals on the dist was white with corrosion and the last >> one >> had a big pile of rust setting on it when I took the wire off. Been a log >> time since I've dealt with an ignition system but I've never seen rust on >> a >> distributor before. The terminal wasn't rusted, it just wiped off so the >> rust must have come from inside the wire end. >> "Doug Miller" > wrote in message >> m... > > Roy it sounds to me you went way to long without servicing your ignition > system! The rust is from your spark plug wires connector. You have no > "distributor", what you are looking at is a coil pack. Two coils each > with two coil "towers". This system is known as a waste spark system. > > FYI a new set of wires doesnt mean a darn thing if you do not use an OHM > meter to check the resistance of the wires. It seems no less than 50% of > the wire sets I buy have at least one wire that is either out of spec or > completely dead! A bad wire can make your car run like crap and WILL > eventually kill your coils. > > The resistance of the wires on a S-series Saturn should be no greater > than 12,000 OHMS (12k ohms). If you tug or bend your wires you can > damage them so if in doubt check the resistance again. Buy some Silicon > Greese (if none comes with the wire set) and apply it to the insides of > the spark plug boots. This will prevent future corrosion and keep the > boots from sticking. Wires should always be replaced at the same time as > plugs or sooner if they are in poor shape. > > There are only 2 types of spark plugs I recommend. AC DELCO and Autolite > both in "double platinum". Some say NGK but I have never ran across > double platinum NGK's here. The double platinum plugs should last 80k > miles. Non platinum plugs last 30k tops. (do NOT buy Bosch plugs at all) > Also buy Anti Seize compound and apply a small dab to the spark plug > threads and keep it away from the electrodes. > > > Other advice > ------------- > Clean your coil towers before attatching the new wires. > > Before removing your old spark plugs make sure there is no debris that > will fall into the combustion chamber. > > If you find oil on your spark plug boots and in your spark plug wells > (DOHC engine) you will need a new cam cover gasket set. > > See if your old wires have nicks or chafing. You can use "wire looms" to > help prevent the new plug wires from chafing in those same places. > > The order of your engine from front to rear is > 1234 > The order of your coil towers from front to rear is > 4123 > Just match the numbers. > > Inspect your old plugs > http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/engine/plugs.html > -------------- > > BTW you should always have your codes read! You can even buy yourself a > basic code reader for around 50 US dollars at auto parts stores. > |
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#12
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No power, rough idle
Got the miss fixed. It was the ignition coil. Found what was probably the
cause of the failure or at least contributed to it. Somebody worked on it before I bought it and snapped off the bottom bolt on the passenger side. IT is in there fairly tight using just the upper bolt but does anybody know of an easy way to get the broken bolt out so I can get a new bolt in to secure it properly. "Roy" <crawroy @ nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message ... > 98 SL1, 165,000km > I have rough idle down around 500-750RPM |
#13
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No power, rough idle
broken screw extractor?
"Roy" <crawroy @ nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message ... > Got the miss fixed. It was the ignition coil. Found what was probably the > cause of the failure or at least contributed to it. Somebody worked on it > before I bought it and snapped off the bottom bolt on the passenger side. > IT is in there fairly tight using just the upper bolt but does anybody > know of an easy way to get the broken bolt out so I can get a new bolt in > to secure it properly. > "Roy" <crawroy @ nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message > ... >> 98 SL1, 165,000km >> I have rough idle down around 500-750RPM > > |
#14
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No power, rough idle
Kind of a tight spot to get into with any kind of power tools. I was just
hoping somebody had taken one out and knew a trick. "NapalmHeart" > wrote in message ... > broken screw extractor? > > "Roy" <crawroy @ nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message > ... >> Got the miss fixed. It was the ignition coil. Found what was probably the >> cause of the failure or at least contributed to it. Somebody worked on it >> before I bought it and snapped off the bottom bolt on the passenger side. >> IT is in there fairly tight using just the upper bolt but does anybody >> know of an easy way to get the broken bolt out so I can get a new bolt in >> to secure it properly. >> "Roy" <crawroy @ nbnet.nb.ca> wrote in message >> ... >>> 98 SL1, 165,000km >>> I have rough idle down around 500-750RPM >> >> > > |
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