Finally The Answer to my Brake Issues

Been having brake issues since day 1...at time the pedal goes to the
floor, the brakes grab the right side harder. All in all it made
driving a true adventure. Having to pump the brakes really kept me on
my toes literally.

My 1st try @ was Bob Summerall Tire where they bled the system and
described how "nasty" the fluid was...when the problem wasn't fixed
they bled them again to no avail.

They wanted $175 to replace the Master w/a rebuid, well over $200 for e
new Master.

Anyway I pulled the Master off today and discovered a leak @ the brake
booster and what could only be descibed as sludge at the bottom of the
Master. We removed one line and blew air through it and found lots of
"bits" of sediment.

Anyway this Monday the whole brake system gets redone...master, pads &
lines.

Quick question: Since I am overhauling the system can I switch to
synthetic brake fluid?

Can you go synthetic? Are you meaning DOT 5?
Yes, after you make sure that every bit of the original DOT 3 is gone. This
usually means that EVERY original piece is replaced.

On the other hand you can use synthetic DOT 4 which is compatible with DOT 3
although you do want to flush all the DOT through the lines until the DOT 4
comes through nice and clear

The bits are probably the remains of the rubber boots and such.

--
(remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Jack-Jack" > wrote in message
oups.com...
> Been having brake issues since day 1...at time the pedal goes to the
> floor, the brakes grab the right side harder. All in all it made
> driving a true adventure. Having to pump the brakes really kept me on
> my toes literally.
>
> My 1st try @ was Bob Summerall Tire where they bled the system and
> described how "nasty" the fluid was...when the problem wasn't fixed
> they bled them again to no avail.
>
> They wanted $175 to replace the Master w/a rebuid, well over $200 for e
> new Master.
>
> Anyway I pulled the Master off today and discovered a leak @ the brake
> booster and what could only be descibed as sludge at the bottom of the
> Master. We removed one line and blew air through it and found lots of
> "bits" of sediment.
>
> Anyway this Monday the whole brake system gets redone...master, pads &
> lines.
>
> Quick question: Since I am overhauling the system can I switch to
> synthetic brake fluid?
>

When I rebuilt my entire system last, i went DOT 5. I didn't replace the
metal lines, and flushed them with alcohol and compressed air.
5 years, no problems.

--
Stupendous Man,
Defender of Freedom, Advocate of Liberty

Is ther a wat to diagnos whether or not the brake booster needs
replaced?

Thanks

If the booster is bad, the engine won't idle down. It is just a massive
vacuum diaphragm.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jack-Jack wrote:
>
> Is ther a wat to diagnos whether or not the brake booster needs
> replaced?
>
> Thanks

Suggestions on which brand to replace brake lines with. I have
Goodrich braided hoses for the front!

I went generic bulk line and bent up my own. There is a radical price
difference. Our local auto stores will also let you borrow tools like a
flare tool and bender if you leave a deposit. Maybe you have a local
place like that too?

The bender can be found at plumbing supply stores too, one type is a
coil spring you slide along as you form it. They work well.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

Jack-Jack wrote:
>
> Suggestions on which brand to replace brake lines with. I have
> Goodrich braided hoses for the front!

I think he is referring to the rubber flex lines Mike.

I don't know the cost differential for the braided stainless, they might be
worth considering.

How much of the braking system are you replacing? It sounded initially like
Sumerel's wanted to replace everything from the master cylinder back.

Are you getting new steel lines, calipers, etc.?

--
(remove SPAM)
2002 Jeep WJ 4 Liter Automatic
Sharing is why we are all here....... or should be.
..
"Mike Romain" > wrote in message
...
>I went generic bulk line and bent up my own. There is a radical price
> difference. Our local auto stores will also let you borrow tools like a
> flare tool and bender if you leave a deposit. Maybe you have a local
> place like that too?
>
> The bender can be found at plumbing supply stores too, one type is a
> coil spring you slide along as you form it. They work well.
>
> Mike
> 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
> 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's
>
> Jack-Jack wrote:
>>
>> Suggestions on which brand to replace brake lines with. I have
>> Goodrich braided hoses for the front!

No Summerall only was going to do the Master. I am doing the Master,
all the lines, pads, the drums & shoes were done in Sept.

If after the pedal goes to the metal, and you may pump it up, means
you have a bad wheel bearing.
God Bless America, Bill O|||||||O
http://www.billhughes.com/

Jack-Jack wrote:
>
> Been having brake issues since day 1...at time the pedal goes to the
> floor, the brakes grab the right side harder. All in all it made
> driving a true adventure. Having to pump the brakes really kept me on
> my toes literally.
>
> My 1st try @ was Bob Summerall Tire where they bled the system and
> described how "nasty" the fluid was...when the problem wasn't fixed
> they bled them again to no avail.
>
> They wanted $175 to replace the Master w/a rebuid, well over $200 for e
> new Master.
>
> Anyway I pulled the Master off today and discovered a leak @ the brake
> booster and what could only be descibed as sludge at the bottom of the
> Master. We removed one line and blew air through it and found lots of
> "bits" of sediment.
>
> Anyway this Monday the whole brake system gets redone...master, pads &
> lines.
>
> Quick question: Since I am overhauling the system can I switch to
> synthetic brake fluid?