Do It Yourself Laser Wheel Alignment

CAUTION

THE FOLLOWING could REALLY F*CK UP YOUR TIRES.

That being said. It could also save you a bundle.

I found a way to align my wheels using a $10 laser level and not much
more.

First thing you have to do is zero (calibrate) the laser level so that
the laser beam is projected parallel to a theoretical flat surface it
rests upon. The way I did this is probably not the best. But it was
quick and dirty and seemed like it worked. I placed the laser level's
flat surface (mine has magnets there) on a cdrom disk. That's right, a
CD. Then I took this arrangment outside at dusk and set it on a wall
and compared where the laser beam went to the flat plane of the CD
disc it rested on. It was way low so I shimmed the rear of the laser
level until the beam and the sightline along the flat surface of the
CD were aligned. Then I taped the laser level to the top of the CD and
reevaluated the state of alignment. They were still aligned.

Then I placed the flat of the CD disc with the laser level taped to
the top of it against flat of the front wheel hub center opening and
propped it in place by leaning a 2 foot 4x4 against it. I marked where
the laser beam fell at 3 distances from 2 to 50 feet out in front of
the car. Then I measured these distances. The difference between the
close-in measurements and the farther ones give you the alignment
since alignment varying from parallel will be magnified by distance.
From there I readjusted the steering arms until the distances close in
and farthest out were just a hair toed-in.

This is essentially what an alignment shop does when they adjust your
toe-in. A major difference though is they're trainied and have the
experience and thousands of dollars of specialized equipment. There
are also other variables other than toe-in that come into the picture
that an alignment shop can handle that I know I can't (or don't want
to go through the trouble). And any time you lay wrench on a
suspension or brake or steering component, you are taking the life of
yourself and everyone driving around you into your hands. I know all
this.

But if you're short of bread and just need to adjust toe in like me
after an accident, this can work if you're careful about it. Of
course, if your alignment seems OK, your tires arne't wearing fast,
then by all means, leave the thing alone.

"insufferable bore" > wrote in message
news
> CAUTION
>
> THE FOLLOWING could REALLY F*CK UP YOUR TIRES.
>
> That being said. It could also save you a bundle.
>
> I found a way to align my wheels using a $10 laser level and not much
> more.
>
> First thing you have to do is zero (calibrate) the laser level so that
> the laser beam is projected parallel to a theoretical flat surface it
> rests upon. The way I did this is probably not the best. But it was
> quick and dirty and seemed like it worked. I placed the laser level's
> flat surface (mine has magnets there) on a cdrom disk. That's right, a
> CD. Then I took this arrangment outside at dusk and set it on a wall
> and compared where the laser beam went to the flat plane of the CD
> disc it rested on. It was way low so I shimmed the rear of the laser
> level until the beam and the sightline along the flat surface of the
> CD were aligned. Then I taped the laser level to the top of the CD and
> reevaluated the state of alignment. They were still aligned.
>
> Then I placed the flat of the CD disc with the laser level taped to
> the top of it against flat of the front wheel hub center opening and
> propped it in place by leaning a 2 foot 4x4 against it. I marked where
> the laser beam fell at 3 distances from 2 to 50 feet out in front of
> the car. Then I measured these distances. The difference between the
> close-in measurements and the farther ones give you the alignment
> since alignment varying from parallel will be magnified by distance.
> From there I readjusted the steering arms until the distances close in
> and farthest out were just a hair toed-in.
>
> This is essentially what an alignment shop does when they adjust your
> toe-in. A major difference though is they're trainied and have the
> experience and thousands of dollars of specialized equipment. There
> are also other variables other than toe-in that come into the picture
> that an alignment shop can handle that I know I can't (or don't want
> to go through the trouble). And any time you lay wrench on a
> suspension or brake or steering component, you are taking the life of
> yourself and everyone driving around you into your hands. I know all
> this.
>
> But if you're short of bread and just need to adjust toe in like me
> after an accident, this can work if you're careful about it. Of
> course, if your alignment seems OK, your tires arne't wearing fast,
> then by all means, leave the thing alone.

Minardi racing use this method.............

Do you have some pictures of it? I really like the idea.

SFC

"insufferable bore" > schreef in bericht
news
> CAUTION
>
> THE FOLLOWING could REALLY F*CK UP YOUR TIRES.
>
> That being said. It could also save you a bundle.
>
> I found a way to align my wheels using a $10 laser level and not much
> more.
>
> First thing you have to do is zero (calibrate) the laser level so that
> the laser beam is projected parallel to a theoretical flat surface it
> rests upon. The way I did this is probably not the best. But it was
> quick and dirty and seemed like it worked. I placed the laser level's
> flat surface (mine has magnets there) on a cdrom disk. That's right, a
> CD. Then I took this arrangment outside at dusk and set it on a wall
> and compared where the laser beam went to the flat plane of the CD
> disc it rested on. It was way low so I shimmed the rear of the laser
> level until the beam and the sightline along the flat surface of the
> CD were aligned. Then I taped the laser level to the top of the CD and
> reevaluated the state of alignment. They were still aligned.
>
> Then I placed the flat of the CD disc with the laser level taped to
> the top of it against flat of the front wheel hub center opening and
> propped it in place by leaning a 2 foot 4x4 against it. I marked where
> the laser beam fell at 3 distances from 2 to 50 feet out in front of
> the car. Then I measured these distances. The difference between the
> close-in measurements and the farther ones give you the alignment
> since alignment varying from parallel will be magnified by distance.
> From there I readjusted the steering arms until the distances close in
> and farthest out were just a hair toed-in.
>
> This is essentially what an alignment shop does when they adjust your
> toe-in. A major difference though is they're trainied and have the
> experience and thousands of dollars of specialized equipment. There
> are also other variables other than toe-in that come into the picture
> that an alignment shop can handle that I know I can't (or don't want
> to go through the trouble). And any time you lay wrench on a
> suspension or brake or steering component, you are taking the life of
> yourself and everyone driving around you into your hands. I know all
> this.
>
> But if you're short of bread and just need to adjust toe in like me
> after an accident, this can work if you're careful about it. Of
> course, if your alignment seems OK, your tires arne't wearing fast,
> then by all means, leave the thing alone.

Here are some photos of the cheap and dirty wheel aligner.

http://mysite.verizon.net/flukeofthe...se/aligner.htm


On Wed, 30 Nov 2005 13:49:05 +0100, "SFC" >
wrote:

>Do you have some pictures of it? I really like the idea.
>
>SFC
>
>"insufferable bore" > schreef in bericht
>news
>> CAUTION
>>
>> THE FOLLOWING could REALLY F*CK UP YOUR TIRES.
>>
>> That being said. It could also save you a bundle.
>>
>> I found a way to align my wheels using a $10 laser level and not much
>> more.
>>
>> First thing you have to do is zero (calibrate) the laser level so that
>> the laser beam is projected parallel to a theoretical flat surface it
>> rests upon. The way I did this is probably not the best. But it was
>> quick and dirty and seemed like it worked. I placed the laser level's
>> flat surface (mine has magnets there) on a cdrom disk. That's right, a
>> CD. Then I took this arrangment outside at dusk and set it on a wall
>> and compared where the laser beam went to the flat plane of the CD
>> disc it rested on. It was way low so I shimmed the rear of the laser
>> level until the beam and the sightline along the flat surface of the
>> CD were aligned. Then I taped the laser level to the top of the CD and
>> reevaluated the state of alignment. They were still aligned.
>>
>> Then I placed the flat of the CD disc with the laser level taped to
>> the top of it against flat of the front wheel hub center opening and
>> propped it in place by leaning a 2 foot 4x4 against it. I marked where
>> the laser beam fell at 3 distances from 2 to 50 feet out in front of
>> the car. Then I measured these distances. The difference between the
>> close-in measurements and the farther ones give you the alignment
>> since alignment varying from parallel will be magnified by distance.
>> From there I readjusted the steering arms until the distances close in
>> and farthest out were just a hair toed-in.
>>
>> This is essentially what an alignment shop does when they adjust your
>> toe-in. A major difference though is they're trainied and have the
>> experience and thousands of dollars of specialized equipment. There
>> are also other variables other than toe-in that come into the picture
>> that an alignment shop can handle that I know I can't (or don't want
>> to go through the trouble). And any time you lay wrench on a
>> suspension or brake or steering component, you are taking the life of
>> yourself and everyone driving around you into your hands. I know all
>> this.
>>
>> But if you're short of bread and just need to adjust toe in like me
>> after an accident, this can work if you're careful about it. Of
>> course, if your alignment seems OK, your tires arne't wearing fast,
>> then by all means, leave the thing alone.
>

sounds like a good idea
I could not view that website for some reason. :-(


"insufferable bore" > wrote in message
...
> Here are some photos of the cheap and dirty wheel aligner.
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/flukeofthe...se/aligner.htm
>
>
> On Wed, 30 Nov 2005 13:49:05 +0100, "SFC" >
> wrote:
>
>>Do you have some pictures of it? I really like the idea.
>>
>>SFC
>>
>>"insufferable bore" > schreef in bericht
>>news
>>> CAUTION
>>>
>>> THE FOLLOWING could REALLY F*CK UP YOUR TIRES.
>>>
>>> That being said. It could also save you a bundle.
>>>
>>> I found a way to align my wheels using a $10 laser level and not much
>>> more.
>>>
>>> First thing you have to do is zero (calibrate) the laser level so that
>>> the laser beam is projected parallel to a theoretical flat surface it
>>> rests upon. The way I did this is probably not the best. But it was
>>> quick and dirty and seemed like it worked. I placed the laser level's
>>> flat surface (mine has magnets there) on a cdrom disk. That's right, a
>>> CD. Then I took this arrangment outside at dusk and set it on a wall
>>> and compared where the laser beam went to the flat plane of the CD
>>> disc it rested on. It was way low so I shimmed the rear of the laser
>>> level until the beam and the sightline along the flat surface of the
>>> CD were aligned. Then I taped the laser level to the top of the CD and
>>> reevaluated the state of alignment. They were still aligned.
>>>
>>> Then I placed the flat of the CD disc with the laser level taped to
>>> the top of it against flat of the front wheel hub center opening and
>>> propped it in place by leaning a 2 foot 4x4 against it. I marked where
>>> the laser beam fell at 3 distances from 2 to 50 feet out in front of
>>> the car. Then I measured these distances. The difference between the
>>> close-in measurements and the farther ones give you the alignment
>>> since alignment varying from parallel will be magnified by distance.
>>> From there I readjusted the steering arms until the distances close in
>>> and farthest out were just a hair toed-in.
>>>
>>> This is essentially what an alignment shop does when they adjust your
>>> toe-in. A major difference though is they're trainied and have the
>>> experience and thousands of dollars of specialized equipment. There
>>> are also other variables other than toe-in that come into the picture
>>> that an alignment shop can handle that I know I can't (or don't want
>>> to go through the trouble). And any time you lay wrench on a
>>> suspension or brake or steering component, you are taking the life of
>>> yourself and everyone driving around you into your hands. I know all
>>> this.
>>>
>>> But if you're short of bread and just need to adjust toe in like me
>>> after an accident, this can work if you're careful about it. Of
>>> course, if your alignment seems OK, your tires arne't wearing fast,
>>> then by all means, leave the thing alone.
>>
>