Advice for stripped threads upstream oxygen sensor exhaust manifold

On 8/2/2018 9:06 AM, rbowman wrote:
> On 08/02/2018 12:18 AM, Arlen Holder wrote:
>> Napa seems to sell a thread chaser for spark plugs, if it's the same
>> thread
>> as spark plugs...
>> https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER730
>
> Might work if the threads just need to be cleaned up. There are quite
> a few kits for stripped out oil drain plugs. The problem is the cheap
> ones are just a slightly oversized tap with a selection of oversized
> plugs. The kits that are more like helicoils are expensive.
>
>> This bung might be able to be welded on by a shop if the threads are
>> right:
>> https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...plug-kit-3735/
>>
>
> If the manifold is cast iron, welding can be tricky. Brazing may be
> better. A good shop will know the best approach.
>
* If it's new enough to have O2 sensors , chances are pretty good the
manifold is steel tube .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety .
Get off my lawn !

On 2 Aug 2018 08:02:40 GMT, Steve W. wrote:

> If you check with many of the chain parts stores they may have a thread
> repair kit as a "loaner tool". You "rent" the tool use it, return it in
> good shape and get your money back. You pay for the insert(s) you use.
> A lot cheaper than buying the kit for a one time repair.

I went to O'Reilly's and Autozone today, where the loaner tap and die kit
at O'Reilly doesn't come close to the M18x1.5 needed here but they do sell
the M14x1.25 thread chaser for those smaller spark plugs:
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6043628o2sensor11.jpg

I bought from Autozone this M18x1.5 thread chaser and will get the kid to
work with me in a couple of hours before nightfall and report back.
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8522268o2sensor12.jpg

On 2 Aug 2018 08:17:08 GMT, trader_4 wrote:

> I would not be too keen on that. To swap it you have more nuts,
> studs, bolts to screw around with and more potential for something
> else to snap, strip, refuse to come off, etc.

I understand that a used exhaust manifold is problematic.

Worse, it appears that the catalytic converter is integral with the exhaust
manifold on this vehicle, so, getting a "used" cat is problematic to start
with.

On 2 Aug 2018 18:22:58 GMT, Terry Coombs wrote:

> * Are you sure Clare ? In the second photo of his original post those
> sure look like weld beads on the sides of the runner tubes . Maybe a
> formed plate/sheet metal unit ? I hadn't looked at the photos ... I do
> see that there is a crush washer to seal , so the helicoil kit he asked
> about will work . I prefer the solid insert anyway .

What should I take a picture of to help you identify if it's steel or cast?
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9421150o2sensor13.jpg>

Here is the part at Mitsubishi (where the cat is integral with it):
<https://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com/auto-parts/2004/mitsubishi/lancer/es-trim/2-0l-l4-gas-engine/exhaust-system-cat/exhaust-manifold-scat>

It's the 2004 Lancer ES 2.0L engine where Autozone has these brands:
Walker
<https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-manifold/walker-exhaust-manifold/461307_452518_0>
Dorman
<https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-manifold/dorman-exhaust-manifold/108344_540298_0>
MagnaFlow
<https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-manifold/magnaflow-exhaust-manifold/513806_943921_25137>
<https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-manifold/magnaflow-exhaust-manifold/435623_943944_25137>

Carid has "Eco Carb":
<https://www.carid.com/2004-mitsubish...er=1&sub-model[Liter][]=2.0L>

Can you tell from those what it's made out of?
If you need a better picture, I'd be glad to snap it for you.

Arlen Holder wrote:
> On 2 Aug 2018 18:22:58 GMT, Terry Coombs wrote:
>
>> Are you sure Clare ? In the second photo of his original post those
>> sure look like weld beads on the sides of the runner tubes . Maybe a
>> formed plate/sheet metal unit ? I hadn't looked at the photos ... I do
>> see that there is a crush washer to seal , so the helicoil kit he asked
>> about will work . I prefer the solid insert anyway .
>
> What should I take a picture of to help you identify if it's steel or cast?
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9421150o2sensor13.jpg>
>
> Here is the part at Mitsubishi (where the cat is integral with it):
> <https://www.mitsubishipartswarehouse.com/auto-parts/2004/mitsubishi/lancer/es-trim/2-0l-l4-gas-engine/exhaust-system-cat/exhaust-manifold-scat>
>
> It's the 2004 Lancer ES 2.0L engine where Autozone has these brands:
> Walker
> <https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-manifold/walker-exhaust-manifold/461307_452518_0>
> Dorman
> <https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-manifold/dorman-exhaust-manifold/108344_540298_0>
> MagnaFlow
> <https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-manifold/magnaflow-exhaust-manifold/513806_943921_25137>
> <https://www.autozone.com/emission-control-and-exhaust/exhaust-manifold/magnaflow-exhaust-manifold/435623_943944_25137>
>
> Carid has "Eco Carb":
> <https://www.carid.com/2004-mitsubish...er=1&sub-model[Liter][]=2.0L>
>
> Can you tell from those what it's made out of?
> If you need a better picture, I'd be glad to snap it for you.

Cast iron went away for most cars a long time ago due to weight savings
needed to comply with gov't mandated fuel mileage requirements.
Take a look at the top pic on the carid.com url. That manifold is cast iron.
Notice how there are no welds. The pipe and the flange is one molded piece.

On 08/02/2018 07:43 PM, Arlen Holder wrote:
> What should I take a picture of to help you identify if it's steel or cast?
> <http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=9421150o2sensor13.jpg>


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cFf_x97vcQ0

Sorting out the different alloys of steel is tricky working from the
spark color and patterns but steel versus cast iron is relatively easy.

On 2 Aug 2018 16:33:44 GMT, Terry Coombs wrote:

> I bought
> another from O'Reilly Auto Parts because this one was "lost" in the move
> when I left Memphis for rural Arkansas .*

Thanks for that advice based on your experience, since I have zero
experience with these things.

I saw that kit at O'Reilly's which I photographed on their counter.
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6043628o2sensor11.jpg>

The sort of good news is that the thread chaser bottomed out entirely by
hand, without any strength required whatsoever, but the sort of bad news is
that it didn't clean up much as a result:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3885168o2sensor19.jpg>

Still, at least that "jb weld" or "epoxy" or whatever it was, seems to be
cleaned out.
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6998492o2sensor20.jpg>

The thread chaser really didn't clean up the threads as much as it pushed
out the jb-weld-expoxy-whatever stuff from the valleys.
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6373378o2sensor21.jpg>

On 2 Aug 2018 18:56:34 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

> They are not even allowed to sell you a used converter - at least not
> here.

This is California, so, if there's anywhere on earth that you're not
allowed to do something, it's gonna be in California for sure.

So that knocks out a used exhaust manifold from the equation.

BTW, I think I figured out WHY the ham-fisted person cross-threaded the old
oxygen sensor.
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8804034o2sensor16.jpg>

The radiator upper hose is in the way of a straight shot, so I gently
removed the upper radiator hose (which was rather loose with a hose clamp).
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1535153o2sensor17.jpg>

Then I was able to get a perfectly straight shot on the thread chaser:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3835665o2sensor18.jpg>

On 2 Aug 2018 21:40:53 GMT, Paul in Houston TX wrote:

> Cast iron went away for most cars a long time ago due to weight savings
> needed to comply with gov't mandated fuel mileage requirements.
> Take a look at the top pic on the carid.com url. That manifold is cast iron.
> Notice how there are no welds. The pipe and the flange is one molded piece

This does seem to have welds, so, it must be steel then, is that right?
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3408929o2sensor13.jpg
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8568761o2sensor14.jpg
http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=5285317o2sensor15.jpg

On 2 Aug 2018 13:48:38 GMT, Clare Snyder wrote:

> First step is clean out the existing threads - do NOT use a form-a
> thread type product - needs to withstand high temperature AND be
> electrically conductive. (some sensors don't need the ground, but many
> do)

Hi Clare,
You've always been right, over the years, on everything!

I will always strive to take your advice, as you have the experience I
lack.

I did clean out the threads late this afternoon just before nightfall:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=5932805o2sensor28.jpg>

After removing the upper radiator hose to get a straight shot and hand
threading the oxygen sensor thread chaser a few times up and down into the
hole, I hand tightened the new oxygen sensor (which came with a crush
gasket like spark plugs do) into the threaded bung.
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2591539o2sensor22.jpg>

When it met a slight resistance, I used the crows foot, still by hand:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3871206o2sensor23.jpg>

Then, when it bottomed, I gently applied leverage ever so slightly:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8431124o2sensor25.jpg>

I figured it would be better loose than too tight, as I didn't want to risk
the threads, but I did snug it down with, oh, about 20 foot pounds in the
last 1/8 turn or so.

Then I transferred the old metal bracket to the new oxygen sensor:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1531967o2sensor24.jpg>

And I buttoned back up the heat shield & routed the oxygen sensor wiring:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4853481o2sensor26.jpg>