2001 E39 530i, chanigng brakes - follow on

Many thanks for you all for helping me (I've decided to go for it after
getting hold of the Haynes manual (#4151)).

There are a couple of questions at the bottom, but FYI.
--
In fact my car went for an oil service today (£190) and as well as pads,
discs being knacked (service manager said discs that do 50k miles had done a
good job - is he right or just BWM dealer/rip-off speak?) the front caliper
is 'sticky' and needs replacement. The only good thing about the service
was the courtesy car, a Z4 conv 2.0 litre. Fun for a day but wouldn't
switch for my 5 series + the Z4 new is, gulp, £24k (or $40k), staggering!!

Had a good on-line look about replacing the caliper seals but generally
seals to be a bad idea, so new caliper it is at £50-60 - Haynes manual says
it's pretty easy and actually explains how to refurb it, I don't have enough
confidence in my DIY skills to attempt a refurb. But for the record has
anyone done, found it easy and worked?
--
So, off to GSF tomorrow for my parts and of course a new tool (mandatory); a
piston retraction tool.
--
Questions

I did notice that GSF have stacks of varieties of discs (vented, solid,
brands) - Does anyone know the OE make of the DISCS?

When changing the caliper, I have to clip the hose to stop brake oil
leaking, when I reconnect do I have to bleed the air out?

Thanks again

Matt

"mp" > wrote in message
...
> Questions
>
> I did notice that GSF have stacks of varieties of discs (vented, solid,
> brands) - Does anyone know the OE make of the DISCS?
>

No idea what the OE discs are. I would go for a better/harder wearing brand
anyway. I use ATE power discs on my 325 and they have been very good.

> When changing the caliper, I have to clip the hose to stop brake oil
> leaking, when I reconnect do I have to bleed the air out?

Yes. As the callipers will be empty and full of air that needs to be got
out. The clamp just stops all the fluid leaking out from the resevoir and
the ABS system.


>
> Thanks again
>
> Matt
>
>

THANKS.

So using a brake bleed kit (one man type), I should be able to get all the
air out? No need for BMW to inspect?


"Cichla" > wrote in message
...
> "mp" > wrote in message
> ...
>> Questions
>>
>> I did notice that GSF have stacks of varieties of discs (vented, solid,
>> brands) - Does anyone know the OE make of the DISCS?
>>
>
> No idea what the OE discs are. I would go for a better/harder wearing
> brand
> anyway. I use ATE power discs on my 325 and they have been very good.
>
>> When changing the caliper, I have to clip the hose to stop brake oil
>> leaking, when I reconnect do I have to bleed the air out?
>
> Yes. As the callipers will be empty and full of air that needs to be got
> out. The clamp just stops all the fluid leaking out from the resevoir and
> the ABS system.
>
>
>>
>> Thanks again
>>
>> Matt
>>
>>
>
>

In article >,
mp > wrote:
> Had a good on-line look about replacing the caliper seals but generally
> seals to be a bad idea, so new caliper it is at £50-60 - Haynes manual
> says it's pretty easy and actually explains how to refurb it, I don't
> have enough confidence in my DIY skills to attempt a refurb. But for
> the record has anyone done, found it easy and worked?

I've not done a BMW, but recently did my other car which has four pot
calipers so rather more work. On it, the pistons - which are chrome plated
- required replacement due to corrosion. Otherwise a straightforward task,
but obviously you do need to clean and examine the parts for corrosion or
damage before fitting new seals. And I'd do both calipers on that axle -
the seal kit will probably be for two anyway.

I've got one of those battery operated tyre compressors and used this to
force out the piston. But you *must* use a secure strong clamp to stop it
flying out as it might need considerable pressure to move it. The other
(messy) way is to pump it out while still on the car.

--
*I'm out of my mind, but feel free to leave a message.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"mp" > wrote in message
...
> Many thanks for you all for helping me (I've decided to go for it after
> getting hold of the Haynes manual (#4151)).
>

Take the Haynes back and get a Bentley instead. You won't be sorry, unless
you elect to muddle through service with that Haynes.

Normally the thickness lower limit is engraved on the edge of the disk.
Remove the wheel, turn the hub until the mark appears,
Measure it with a calliper.



"mp" > a écrit dans le message news:
...
> Questions
>
> I did notice that GSF have stacks of varieties of discs (vented, solid,
> brands) - Does anyone know the OE make of the DISCS?
>
> When changing the caliper, I have to clip the hose to stop brake oil
> leaking, when I reconnect do I have to bleed the air out?

In article >,
zantafio > wrote:
> Normally the thickness lower limit is engraved on the edge of the disk.
> Remove the wheel, turn the hub until the mark appears,
> Measure it with a calliper.

Difficult to do since you won't get the calliper off due to the ridge at
the edge. If you don't have a micrometer use the callipers with a known
sized HSS twist trill as a spacer. Say about 3mm.

--
*Why is the word abbreviation so long? *

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"MP" > wrote in message
...
> THANKS.
>
> So using a brake bleed kit (one man type), I should be able to get all the
> air out? No need for BMW to inspect?
>

Yup. As long as the fluid hasn't completely drained out you should be good
to go after bleeding the brakes with your one man kit.

--
Cheers

Rick

http://www.aqua-maniac.co.uk
http://bmw.aqua-maniac.co.uk

"Dave Plowman (News)" > wrote in message
...
> In article >,
> zantafio > wrote:
>> Normally the thickness lower limit is engraved on the edge of the disk.
>> Remove the wheel, turn the hub until the mark appears,
>> Measure it with a calliper.
>
> Difficult to do since you won't get the calliper off due to the ridge at
> the edge. If you don't have a micrometer use the callipers with a known
> sized HSS twist trill as a spacer. Say about 3mm.
>



Say what!!!

It's an easy task to spread the caliper in order to remove it, and its no
trouble at all to turn the hub around to locate the specification stamped on
it, even without taking the rotor off. And, it's possiblle to measure the
rotor without taking the caliper off.

In article >,
Jeff Strickland > wrote:
> > Difficult to do since you won't get the calliper off due to the ridge
> > at the edge. If you don't have a micrometer use the callipers with a
> > known sized HSS twist trill as a spacer. Say about 3mm.

> Say what!!!

> It's an easy task to spread the caliper in order to remove it, and its
> no trouble at all to turn the hub around to locate the specification
> stamped on it, even without taking the rotor off. And, it's possiblle
> to measure the rotor without taking the caliper off.

Perhaps it's a language thing. Measuring vernier callipers have usually
parallel jaws. So can't get get past the rust rim unless you use some form
of spacer. Same with 'normal' callipers where they are curved and could
measure the thickness, but have to be removed to do this.

A micrometer is the easy answer.

--
*I'm not your type. I'm not inflatable.

Dave Plowman London SW
To e-mail, change noise into sound.