HELP: 93 Toyota Corolla vibration problem!

On Sat, 12 Apr 2008 05:58:35 -0700, jonb55198 wrote:

> The tire
> place claims that the wheels have hops in them.

Now all you need is some barley and make a malt! (Sorry, couldn't resist.
What the hell is a 'hop'?)

"Hachiroku ãƒ�ãƒ�ãƒ*ク" > wrote in message
news:S9dMj.110$SR2.48@trndny03...
> On Sat, 12 Apr 2008 05:58:35 -0700, jonb55198 wrote:
>
>> The tire
>> place claims that the wheels have hops in them.
>
> Now all you need is some barley and make a malt! (Sorry, couldn't resist.
> What the hell is a 'hop'?)

It's what they combine barley and yeast with ...

DUH!

On Apr 12, 9:16 pm, Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B > wrote:
> What the hell is a 'hop'?)

A hop is their laymans term for a wheel that isn't true. A bent
wheel. I always thought wheel hop was when one applied too much
torque while accellerating, and the tires broke free and started to
"hop" up and down. Clearly something my corolla doesn't have the
balls to do haha.

"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote in message
> Another possibility is that there is rust on the wheel to hub mating
> surface and the wheel is not as securely mounted as it appears to be. The
> fix is to remove the wheel, clean up the hub and wheel where they contact,
> apply a very light coating of anti-seize, and re-install the wheels.
>
> Have the shop or your mechanic measure wheel and tire lateral and radial
> runout to determine which of these is the cause of the vibration.
> --
>

While everything you say is true, it bothers me a little bit that he can
stop the
oscillation by stopping the car and restarting.

OP....Have you rotated your tires recently and, if so, did this make any
difference??

"HLS" > wrote in message
...
>
> "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote in message
>> Another possibility is that there is rust on the wheel to hub mating
>> surface and the wheel is not as securely mounted as it appears to be.
>> The fix is to remove the wheel, clean up the hub and wheel where they
>> contact, apply a very light coating of anti-seize, and re-install the
>> wheels.
>>
>> Have the shop or your mechanic measure wheel and tire lateral and radial
>> runout to determine which of these is the cause of the vibration.
>> --
>>
>
> While everything you say is true, it bothers me a little bit that he can
> stop the
> oscillation by stopping the car and restarting.
>
> OP....Have you rotated your tires recently and, if so, did this make any
> difference??

If the wheel is not properly mounted to the vehicle and the wheel is
shifting a little, applying the brakes can seat the wheel, and after driving
for a distance, the wheel shifts to where is causes a vibration again.
Measuring the lateral and radial runout of the wheel and tire separately
will determine whether the wheel or tire is the cause of the problem.
Cleaning up the wheel - vehicle mating surfaces will eliminate an improperly
mounted wheel as a possible cause.

Besides the wheel, tire, and wheel mounting, there are other possible causes
of vehicle vibrations, like a defective tire that has an internal problem
like a broken belt, CV joints, ball joints, rack ends, out-of-alignment,
suspension problem, wheel bearings, and a transmission problem.

Taking a systematic approach eliminates the most likely causes of the
problem and narrows down the possible sources of the vibration.


--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

On Apr 13, 11:41 am, "HLS" > wrote:
> OP....Have you rotated your tires recently and, if so, did this make any
> difference??

Hi,
I did rotate them less than 5k miles ago when I had the new ones
installed. Basically i had the fronts moved to the rear, and the new
tires installed in the front.

On Apr 13, 4:34 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:

> Besides the wheel, tire, and wheel mounting, there are other possible causes
> of vehicle vibrations, like a defective tire that has an internal problem
> like a broken belt, CV joints, ball joints, rack ends, out-of-alignment,
> suspension problem, wheel bearings, and a transmission problem.

My mechanic, although not infallable, has gone through all of hte
front suspension components 2 times on 2 separate days and swears that
it is not a suspension component issue. Although I can appreciate
that it front suspension issues often cause vibration... so its good
that you wrote this... :-)


> Taking a systematic approach eliminates the most likely causes of the
> problem and narrows down the possible sources of the vibration.

Agreed. Definitely.

> wrote in message
...
> On Apr 13, 4:34 pm, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>
>> Besides the wheel, tire, and wheel mounting, there are other possible
>> causes
>> of vehicle vibrations, like a defective tire that has an internal problem
>> like a broken belt, CV joints, ball joints, rack ends, out-of-alignment,
>> suspension problem, wheel bearings, and a transmission problem.
>
> My mechanic, although not infallable, has gone through all of hte
> front suspension components 2 times on 2 separate days and swears that
> it is not a suspension component issue. Although I can appreciate
> that it front suspension issues often cause vibration... so its good
> that you wrote this... :-)
>
>
>> Taking a systematic approach eliminates the most likely causes of the
>> problem and narrows down the possible sources of the vibration.
>
> Agreed. Definitely.

If the suspension and steering components are in good condition, then the
next things to re-check are
Wheel and tire balance, preferably on a machine that simulates road force
Inspection of the tires for internal damage or defects
Wheel/hub interface
Wheel lateral and radial runout as measured by a dial indicator
Tire lateral and radial runout as measured by a dial indicator
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

NEW SYMPTOMS:

I had the tires changed out for brand new Yokoham Avid TRZ. they were
under warranty so it didn't cost me anything. However, the vibration
still persisted. The new additional symptoms are as follows:

1. when the vibration occurs, you can get out of the car and feel the
temperature of the steel wheels. The Passenger Front wheel is hot to
the touch and will burn you. the rest are cool to the touch.

2. the brake pedal has less travel and feels stiffer.

3. more gas pedal effort and reduced gas mileage during periods of
vibration.

4. this problem will start randomly and is not dependent on if you are
using the brakes. I was on the highway at 1AM and didn't use the
brakes for 30 miles and it still started.

Now here is what I think, although i'm not a mechanic... I think it
has something to do with the front passenger-side caliper. It may be
locking up somehow. But i noticed on local roads before the vibration
starts, if the pedal is stiff, pump it a few times and it goes away...
ie the brakes unlock. The weird thing is I put brand new calipers in
there 3k miles ago.... could one be defective?

Any help or insight would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Jon

wrote:
> NEW SYMPTOMS:
>
> I had the tires changed out for brand new Yokoham Avid TRZ. they were
> under warranty so it didn't cost me anything. However, the vibration
> still persisted. The new additional symptoms are as follows:
>
> 1. when the vibration occurs, you can get out of the car and feel the
> temperature of the steel wheels. The Passenger Front wheel is hot to
> the touch and will burn you. the rest are cool to the touch.
>
> 2. the brake pedal has less travel and feels stiffer.
>
> 3. more gas pedal effort and reduced gas mileage during periods of
> vibration.
>
> 4. this problem will start randomly and is not dependent on if you are
> using the brakes. I was on the highway at 1AM and didn't use the
> brakes for 30 miles and it still started.
>
> Now here is what I think, although i'm not a mechanic... I think it
> has something to do with the front passenger-side caliper. It may be
> locking up somehow. But i noticed on local roads before the vibration
> starts, if the pedal is stiff, pump it a few times and it goes away...
> ie the brakes unlock. The weird thing is I put brand new calipers in
> there 3k miles ago.... could one be defective?
>
> Any help or insight would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
> -Jon
>
The hose to the caliper may have internally collapsed causing the jam.
To test it you need to jack up the wheel and feel the drag that is
causing the heat, then loosen off the bleeder screw. If the wheel
releases, you have found the likely trouble.

A bad wheel bearing can also affect the brake caliper. It can cause the
rotor to drag against one side of the caliper which can overheat it
also. One other symptom of this can be a different feel in the brake
pedal's first pump after a hard turn to one side or the other. If the
second pump seems higher or lower with the third pump getting back to
normal, it can indicate a bad bearing.

Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00
'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build
Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com