If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below. |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Replacing E30 control arms and bushings
This is a job I need to do and I've read the Bentley manual as well as
looked up some things on line. Still I have a few questions for those who have been through this before. If I re-use the bushing brackets (lollipops) is a conventional hydraulic shop press all that is needed to install the new bushings in the brackets? I have such a press. Now I've heard that getting the control arm nubs into the bushings is a real pain but have not been able to find any information on how people have done this. I know to use liquid soap or something else that won't harm the rubber as a lubricant. I know it is possible to buy bushings already mounted in brackets. Can anyone suggest a good source for these in the U.S.? Thanks, Christopher |
Ads |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Replacing E30 control arms and bushings
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Replacing E30 control arms and bushings
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Replacing E30 control arms and bushings
I'm posting a follow-up for anyone who might come across this thread
in the future. The only trick to this job was removing the nuts on the inner ball joints. They are up against the motor mounts and with other things in the way it is tough to get a good mechanical advantage and leverage with a swivel. All other nuts and bolts can be easily accessed with tools you would already have if you plan to do this yourself. For the inner ball joint nut on the driver's side I used a 3/8 drive 22mm socket which I had ground down the top portion into a cone shape, a wobble extension, and several long extensions. While maybe not necessary I removed the air flow meter box so I could see what I was doing easier. For reinstalling I had to use an open end wrench on the inner ball joint nut from underneath the car. You can only swing it a bit, then have to flip the wrench, and repeat many times. Eventually I could get the socket back on the nut and finish that way. The inner ball joint nut on the passenger side is readily visible but the exhaust system prevents you from getting a good angle with a swivel. I used a lot of PB Blaster, and heated the nut with a torch. Final touch was a 22mm crowfoot wrench with a wobble extension, several long extensions, breaker bar and pipe extension. You have to be really careful so as not to slip off the nut when initially breaking it loose. Once it loosens it is possible to use the modified socket and swivel. About the bushings, they were the least of my troubles. I ordered the ones with the holders already installed from Bavarian Autosport. I installed these on my new control arms before attaching the control arms to the car. Dishwashing liquid was used as a lubricant. By pressing and twisting by hand I got the bushings started. Then I took a large socket, might have been 1", set this on the bushing and drove it on with a rubber mallet. The socket puts all the force on the inner ring of the bushing so it won't be damaged. Note that it still took some force to drive these on. That being said, if I were only replacing those bushings and leaving the control arms on the car, here is what I would do: Drive the front of the car up onto some ramps, then jack up the back end and put some blocks under the rear wheels. That would some room to lay on the ground beside the car and swing a mallet to get the new bushings on. If you had access to a lift, it would be really easy. Christopher |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Replacing E30 control arms and bushings
I'm posting a follow-up for anyone who might come across this thread
in the future. The only trick to this job was removing the nuts on the inner ball joints. They are up against the motor mounts and with other things in the way it is tough to get a good mechanical advantage and leverage with a swivel. All other nuts and bolts can be easily accessed with tools you would already have if you plan to do this yourself. For the inner ball joint nut on the driver's side I used a 3/8 drive 22mm socket which I had ground down the top portion into a cone shape, a wobble extension, and several long extensions. While maybe not necessary I removed the air flow meter box so I could see what I was doing easier. For reinstalling I had to use an open end wrench on the inner ball joint nut from underneath the car. You can only swing it a bit, then have to flip the wrench, and repeat many times. Eventually I could get the socket back on the nut and finish that way. The inner ball joint nut on the passenger side is readily visible but the exhaust system prevents you from getting a good angle with a swivel. I used a lot of PB Blaster, and heated the nut with a torch. Final touch was a 22mm crowfoot wrench with a wobble extension, several long extensions, breaker bar and pipe extension. You have to be really careful so as not to slip off the nut when initially breaking it loose. Once it loosens it is possible to use the modified socket and swivel. About the bushings, they were the least of my troubles. I ordered the ones with the holders already installed from Bavarian Autosport. I installed these on my new control arms before attaching the control arms to the car. Dishwashing liquid was used as a lubricant. By pressing and twisting by hand I got the bushings started. Then I took a large socket, might have been 1", set this on the bushing and drove it on with a rubber mallet. The socket puts all the force on the inner ring of the bushing so it won't be damaged. Note that it still took some force to drive these on. That being said, if I were only replacing those bushings and leaving the control arms on the car, here is what I would do: Drive the front of the car up onto some ramps, then jack up the back end and put some blocks under the rear wheels. That would some room to lay on the ground beside the car and swing a mallet to get the new bushings on. If you had access to a lift, it would be really easy. Christopher |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
Replacing E30 control arms and bushings
|
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Replacing E30 control arms and bushings
|
#8
|
|||
|
|||
Replacing E30 control arms and bushings
> > wrote: > > > > If you had access to a lift, it would be really easy. > > > dizzy wrote: > > > Yes, that would be *very* handy , at times. I wonder what one of > them costs. > > Good post. You can pick one up for about$1500...or find someone who has one and make friends....lol |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
Replacing E30 control arms and bushings
> > wrote: > > > > If you had access to a lift, it would be really easy. > > > dizzy wrote: > > > Yes, that would be *very* handy , at times. I wonder what one of > them costs. > > Good post. You can pick one up for about$1500...or find someone who has one and make friends....lol |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Replacing Distributor bushings 009 | CoalMineCanary | VW air cooled | 1 | January 16th 10 08:50 PM |
BMW E30 Control Arms | Bob Smitter | BMW | 2 | January 4th 10 03:16 PM |
Need Help With A4 Control Arms | [email protected] | Audi | 1 | April 13th 07 06:16 AM |
Why Would ABS Problem Require Replacing Control Arms? | Steven L. | Technology | 8 | July 15th 06 10:02 PM |
Why Would ABS Problem Require Replacing Control Arms? | Steven L. | Honda | 8 | July 15th 06 10:02 PM |