96 3.3 Dodge just stopped. Cam & crank sensors changed w/ASD. Spark hits one time only at each try. Coil pack changed. Help Me!?

Was running fine during routine shopping. When my wife came out of
store the engine would not crank. Fuel is no problem it has new fuel
pump. I have replaced crank and cam sensors, also plugged in new ASD
relay to no avail. Changed coil pack. When I check the firing at plugs
it hits ONE HEAVY SPARK and NO MORE at each try. Only hit's again after
ignition is turned off and then back on. Please respond with any
suggestion.

wrote:
> Was running fine during routine shopping. When my wife came out of
> store the engine would not crank. Fuel is no problem it has new fuel
> pump. I have replaced crank and cam sensors, also plugged in new ASD
> relay to no avail. Changed coil pack. When I check the firing at plugs
> it hits ONE HEAVY SPARK and NO MORE at each try. Only hit's again after
> ignition is turned off and then back on. Please respond with any
> suggestion. waht sise engine you have??

Wrote:
> Was running fine during routine shopping. When my wife came out of
> store the engine would not crank. Fuel is no problem it has new fuel
> pump. I have replaced crank and cam sensors, also plugged in new ASD
> relay to no avail. Changed coil pack. When I check the firing at plugs
> it hits ONE HEAVY SPARK and NO MORE at each try. Only hit's again after
> ignition is turned off and then back on. Please respond with any
> suggestion.

You'll get one discharge like that just from the coil powering up and
discharging, but it sounds like what they do when the ignition module
is dead...


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jeffcoslacker Wrote:
> You'll get one discharge like that just from the coil powering up and
> discharging, but it sounds like what they do when the ignition module
> is dead...

I forgot...I don't think the Dodge has an ignition module per se, but
it may be the engine controller module under the hood. Check all
connections and fuses and breakers...

not familiar with the relay you said, what does it do?


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> wrote in message
ps.com...
> Was running fine during routine shopping. When my wife came out of
> store the engine would not crank.

Starter or starter relay... Not cranking, means not turning...

> Fuel is no problem it has new fuel
> pump. I have replaced crank and cam sensors, also plugged in new ASD
> relay to no avail. Changed coil pack. When I check the firing at plugs
> it hits ONE HEAVY SPARK and NO MORE at each try. Only hit's again after
> ignition is turned off and then back on. Please respond with any
> suggestion.
>

Stop wasting money on all these parts and get the starter and starter relay
tested... Should get you "crank[ing]" again...

> I forgot...I don't think the Dodge has an ignition module per se, but
> it may be the engine controller module under the hood. Check all
> connections and fuses and breakers...
>
> not familiar with the relay you said, what does it do?
>
I have checked every single fuse and every relay that I can find.
The ASD relay from what I understand provides a grounding to both the
ignition and fuel solenoids simultaneously once the ignition switch is
turned
on and drops the ground after 1.8 seconds.

That one is still OBD I...can you get codes with the key flip on/off
routine like they used to do?


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> wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> wrote:
> > Was running fine during routine shopping. When my wife came out of
> > store the engine would not crank. Fuel is no problem it has new fuel
> > pump. I have replaced crank and cam sensors, also plugged in new ASD
> > relay to no avail. Changed coil pack. When I check the firing at plugs
> > it hits ONE HEAVY SPARK and NO MORE at each try. Only hit's again after
> > ignition is turned off and then back on. Please respond with any
> > suggestion.

> waht sise engine you have??

Spelling?? I guess you read about as well as you spell. Look in the
subject line..

wrote:
> Was running fine during routine shopping. When my wife came out of
> store the engine would not crank. Fuel is no problem it has new fuel
> pump. I have replaced crank and cam sensors, also plugged in new ASD
> relay to no avail. Changed coil pack. When I check the firing at plugs
> it hits ONE HEAVY SPARK and NO MORE at each try. Only hit's again after
> ignition is turned off and then back on. Please respond with any
> suggestion.

Does the starter turn the engine, or does it only crank a little, then
stop turning ??

Keep in mind any newer vehicle from about 1985 on up, has an ON BOARD
spark/fuel computer, with a variety of sensors- and the only way to
effectively check them all, is with a special diagnostic computer-
which the dealer has- or the better repair garages have. You have to
"scan" the entire system first, to be sure all the sensors are working
properly. Then also do a fuel pump pressure and volume test, and a fuel
pump relay check- (all new cars are fuel injected- so they use an
electric fuel pump usually) Once you eliminate the computer controls
and sensors, THEN you can move on to the basic engine diagnosis.

95% of the time, it's in the computer controls and fuel system. Most
of the time, the problem is electrical or sensors.

Finally, every car should be checked for EXHAUST BACKPRESSURE, by
removing the O2 sensor, and running the car with a pressure tester
screwed into the O2 tap. Many converters come up PLUGGED. My 2002 GM
car with 75,000 miles on it, already had a plugged converter.

Drive with a plugged converter long enough, you burn all the heads off
the exhaust valves- due to excessive engine heat- the exhaust cant' get
out.

just a word to the wise.

my advice, take the car to a shop with diagnostic computer, the days of
the home grown fixer is over for these new cars. The only thing the
average guy can do, is brakes, change oil, trans fluid, filters. When
it comes to a "no run" problem, forgettaboutit...

On 5 Sep 2006 09:31:26 -0700, "duty-honor-country"
> wrote:

>Finally, every car should be checked for EXHAUST BACKPRESSURE, by
>removing the O2 sensor, and running the car with a pressure tester
>screwed into the O2 tap. Many converters come up PLUGGED. My 2002 GM
>car with 75,000 miles on it, already had a plugged converter. <snip>

Now he mysteriously has a 2002 "GM car." When did this happen,
Noodles? Raid another estate sale? Oh, BTW....a plugged converter
usually results from BYPASSING EMISSIONS EQUIPMENT, such as EGR valves
and air pumps, which you advocate doing elsewhere on Usenet...a
Federal crime.

>Drive with a plugged converter long enough, you burn all the heads off
>the exhaust valves- due to excessive engine heat- the exhaust cant' get
>out. <snip>

LMAO! The engine will quit running before that point, dumbbell.
>
>just a word to the wise.
>
>my advice, take the car to a shop with diagnostic computer, the days of
>the home grown fixer is over for these new cars. The only thing the
>average guy can do, is brakes, change oil, trans fluid, filters. When
>it comes to a "no run" problem, forgettaboutit... <snip>

For an idiot like you, Noodles, perhaps. For a smart tech with proper
tools and knowledge, no way.