preheater troubles

On 12/07/2011 07:30 AM, P.J.Berg wrote:
> On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 10:35:39 +0100, tricky
> > wrote:
>>
>> Doesn't Carb icing occur whilst you are driving ... not before you
>> start the engine ! ?
>
>
> Yup.
> When it happens and the car stalls, you can sit and wait it out until
> the heat soak has thawed the carb and manifold.


Exactly my issue. It starts fine from dead cold, but stalls after 15
seconds. runs like poo for the next five minutes. Temp of the carb
base drops about 8 degrees C from ambient to just a few above freezing.
preheat, now, isn't doing much work on the manifold to keep it warm
with the newer exhaust. Later when the oil temp comes up, it runs fine.

must make more heat... electrically.

--



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On Dec 6, 2:39*pm, tricky > wrote:
> I must admit, my interest is audio. Different classes of output have
> different heat characteristics.
> Usually for a fully on transistor, the power/heat is dissipated in the
> load. *If you have no load ... then I guess you have to over current the
> transistor to get the same max power, for the rating of the transistor ?

Rich,
If you want, please double check my work. Grab LTSpice for free @
http://www.linear.com/designtools/software/#LTspice, load this
schematic and run the sim which will plot values over temperature.
Bring the mouse over Q4, hold down the Alt key and click to plot
dissipation.

Save the following as manifoldHeater.asc (between the ---- markers)
using notepad or whatever
----------
Version 4
SHEET 1 1512 1024
WIRE 80 -144 -48 -144
WIRE 304 -144 80 -144
WIRE 432 -144 304 -144
WIRE 592 -144 432 -144
WIRE 880 -144 592 -144
WIRE 1056 -144 880 -144
WIRE 1184 -144 1056 -144
WIRE -48 -80 -48 -144
WIRE 304 -80 304 -144
WIRE 432 -80 432 -144
WIRE 592 -80 592 -144
WIRE 880 -80 880 -144
WIRE 1056 0 1056 -144
WIRE -48 32 -48 0
WIRE 144 32 -48 32
WIRE 432 32 432 0
WIRE 432 32 224 32
WIRE 592 32 592 0
WIRE 880 48 880 0
WIRE 992 48 880 48
WIRE 304 80 304 0
WIRE 528 80 304 80
WIRE 80 112 80 -144
WIRE 304 112 304 80
WIRE 1184 112 1184 -144
WIRE -48 160 -48 32
WIRE 16 160 -48 160
WIRE 432 160 432 32
WIRE 432 160 368 160
WIRE 880 160 880 48
WIRE 192 208 80 208
WIRE 304 208 192 208
WIRE 592 208 592 128
WIRE 640 208 592 208
WIRE 768 208 720 208
WIRE 816 208 768 208
WIRE -48 224 -48 160
WIRE 432 224 432 160
WIRE 192 240 192 208
WIRE 768 256 768 208
WIRE 144 320 112 320
WIRE 192 368 192 336
WIRE 592 368 592 208
WIRE 880 368 880 256
WIRE 768 384 768 320
WIRE -48 496 -48 304
WIRE 112 496 112 320
WIRE 112 496 -48 496
WIRE 192 496 192 448
WIRE 192 496 112 496
WIRE 432 496 432 304
WIRE 432 496 192 496
WIRE 592 496 592 448
WIRE 592 496 432 496
WIRE 768 496 768 448
WIRE 768 496 592 496
WIRE 880 496 880 448
WIRE 880 496 768 496
WIRE 1056 496 1056 96
WIRE 1056 496 880 496
WIRE 1184 496 1184 192
WIRE 1184 496 1056 496
WIRE 592 544 592 496
FLAG 592 544 0
SYMBOL npn 16 112 R0
SYMATTR InstName Q1
SYMATTR Value 2N3904
SYMBOL npn 368 112 M0
SYMATTR InstName Q2
SYMATTR Value 2N3904
SYMBOL pnp 528 128 M180
SYMATTR InstName Q3
SYMATTR Value 2N3906
SYMBOL res -64 208 R0
SYMATTR InstName R3
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL res 288 -96 R0
SYMATTR InstName R4
SYMATTR Value 4k
SYMBOL res 416 -96 R0
SYMATTR InstName R5
SYMATTR Value 10k
SYMBOL pnp 992 96 M180
SYMATTR InstName Q4
SYMATTR Value D45H11
SYMBOL Misc\\battery 1184 96 R0
SYMATTR InstName V1
SYMATTR Value 12
SYMBOL diode 784 384 M0
SYMATTR InstName D1
SYMATTR Value 1N914
SYMBOL diode 784 256 M0
SYMATTR InstName D2
SYMATTR Value 1N914
SYMBOL res 736 192 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R7
SYMATTR Value 1k
SYMBOL res 416 208 R0
SYMATTR InstName R8
SYMATTR Value 8k
SYMBOL res 576 464 M180
WINDOW 0 36 76 Left 2
WINDOW 3 36 40 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName R9
SYMATTR Value 330
SYMBOL npn 816 160 R0
SYMATTR InstName Q5
SYMATTR Value 2N3019
SYMBOL res 864 -96 R0
SYMATTR InstName R10
SYMATTR Value 470
SYMBOL res 896 352 M0
SYMATTR InstName R11
SYMATTR Value 7
SYMBOL res 576 -96 R0
SYMATTR InstName R12
SYMATTR Value 1k
SYMBOL res 240 16 R90
WINDOW 0 0 56 VBottom 2
WINDOW 3 32 56 VTop 2
SYMATTR InstName R13
SYMATTR Value 680
SYMBOL ntc_resistor -32 -96 M0
WINDOW 0 55 38 Left 2
WINDOW 38 52 76 Left 2
SYMATTR InstName U1
SYMATTR SpiceModel NTCALUGE2C90169
SYMATTR Value ""
SYMBOL nmos 144 240 R0
SYMATTR InstName M1
SYMATTR Value LND150
SYMBOL res 176 352 R0
SYMATTR InstName R1
SYMATTR Value 40
TEXT 16 536 Left 2 !.op
TEXT 16 616 Left 2 !.step temp -10 40 1
TEXT 408 248 Right 2 ;temp\nset
TEXT 904 384 Left 2 ;max\nheat\nset
TEXT 976 112 Left 2 ;*HOT*
TEXT 232 -264 Left 2 ;60 watt VW intake manifold (carb base) heater
TEXT -184 744 Left 2 !.SUBCKT NTCALUGE2C90169 1 2\n*
http://www.vishay.com/docs/29092/ntcalug.pdf\n.PARAM R0=10k\n.PARAM
B=3984\n.PARAM TK=273.15\n.PARAM T0=25\nRP 1 2 1G\nB1 1 2 I=V(1,2)/
{R0*exp(4000*(1/(TEMP+TK)-1/(T0+TK)))}\n.ENDS
TEXT 536 720 Left 2 !*\n*LND150 MODEL\n*\n.MODEL LND150 NMOS
(LEVEL=3 RS=150.00 NSUB=5.0E13\n+DELTA=0.1
KAPPA=1.O TPG=1 CGDO=2.1716E-12\n+RD=40.0
VTO=-2.0 VMAX=1.0E8 ETA=0.1\n+NFS=6.6E10
TOX=1.0E-7 LD=1.698E-9 UO=862.425\n+XJ=6.4666E-7
THETA=1.0E-5 CGSO=5.09E-10 L=10.0E-6\n+W=600E-6)
----------


Save the following as ntc_resistor.asy (between the ---- markers)
Place it in %program files%\LTC\LTSpiceIV\lib\sym\
----------
Version 4
SymbolType CELL
LINE Normal 16 88 16 96
LINE Normal 16 16 16 24
LINE Normal 27 24 5 24
LINE Normal 5 88 5 24
LINE Normal 5 88 27 88
LINE Normal 27 24 27 88
LINE Normal 40 40 -8 88
LINE Normal 40 24 40 40
LINE Normal 40 24 40 24
WINDOW 0 53 31 Left 0
WINDOW 38 52 60 Left 0
WINDOW 3 52 92 Left 0
SYMATTR SpiceModel NTC_R
SYMATTR Prefix X
SYMATTR Description Universal NTC Resistor
PIN 16 16 NONE 0
PINATTR PinName A
PINATTR SpiceOrder 1
PIN 16 96 NONE 0
PINATTR PinName B
PINATTR SpiceOrder 2
----------

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 18:28:12 +0100, David Gravereaux >
wrote:

> On 12/07/2011 07:30 AM, P.J.Berg wrote:
>> On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 10:35:39 +0100, tricky
>> > wrote:
>>>
>>> Doesn't Carb icing occur whilst you are driving ... not before you
>>> start the engine ! ?
>>
>>
>> Yup.
>> When it happens and the car stalls, you can sit and wait it out until
>> the heat soak has thawed the carb and manifold.
>
>
> Exactly my issue. It starts fine from dead cold, but stalls after 15
> seconds. runs like poo for the next five minutes. Temp of the carb
> base drops about 8 degrees C from ambient to just a few above freezing.
> preheat, now, isn't doing much work on the manifold to keep it warm
> with the newer exhaust. Later when the oil temp comes up, it runs fine.
>
> must make more heat... electrically.
>

What you are describing is not carb icing, it would never happen after
15sec, only when you actually drive the car with partly open throttle/high
vacuum.
The preheater tubes even when connected to a proper exhaust would not even
start to get warm after 15sec.

I have not this whole thread saved and cant remember your exact carb.

It sounds like a typical auto choke issue.
Have you checked setting/freedom of movement and function of the heater
element working on the bi-metal spring?
Also, have you checked the base setting of the butterfly itself?
How about intake leaks? Gaskets, bent flanges etc.

J.

--
P.J.Berg

--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---

On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 18:28:12 +0100, David Gravereaux >
wrote:

> On 12/07/2011 07:30 AM, P.J.Berg wrote:
>> On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 10:35:39 +0100, tricky
>> > wrote:
>>>
>>> Doesn't Carb icing occur whilst you are driving ... not before you
>>> start the engine ! ?
>>
>>
>> Yup.
>> When it happens and the car stalls, you can sit and wait it out until
>> the heat soak has thawed the carb and manifold.

I should have added he
With the engine off(It is stalled and won't run anyways), it takes a while
for the heat soak from the heads to travel all the way up to the carb. I
spent a few very very cold moments sitting stationary in my -56 in 15-20C
below freezing as a youngster..

J.

>
>
> Exactly my issue. It starts fine from dead cold, but stalls after 15
> seconds. runs like poo for the next five minutes. Temp of the carb
> base drops about 8 degrees C from ambient to just a few above freezing.
> preheat, now, isn't doing much work on the manifold to keep it warm
> with the newer exhaust. Later when the oil temp comes up, it runs fine.
>
> must make more heat... electrically.
>


--
P.J.Berg

--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---

On 12/07/2011 11:07 PM, P.J.Berg wrote:
> On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 18:28:12 +0100, David Gravereaux
> > wrote:
>
>> On 12/07/2011 07:30 AM, P.J.Berg wrote:
>>> On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 10:35:39 +0100, tricky
>>> > wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Doesn't Carb icing occur whilst you are driving ... not before you
>>>> start the engine ! ?
>>>
>>>
>>> Yup.
>>> When it happens and the car stalls, you can sit and wait it out until
>>> the heat soak has thawed the carb and manifold.
>>
>>
>> Exactly my issue. It starts fine from dead cold, but stalls after 15
>> seconds. runs like poo for the next five minutes. Temp of the carb
>> base drops about 8 degrees C from ambient to just a few above freezing.
>> preheat, now, isn't doing much work on the manifold to keep it warm
>> with the newer exhaust. Later when the oil temp comes up, it runs fine.
>>
>> must make more heat... electrically.
>>
>
> What you are describing is not carb icing, it would never happen after
> 15sec, only when you actually drive the car with partly open
> throttle/high vacuum.
> The preheater tubes even when connected to a proper exhaust would not
> even start to get warm after 15sec.
>
> I have not this whole thread saved and cant remember your exact carb.
>
> It sounds like a typical auto choke issue.
> Have you checked setting/freedom of movement and function of the heater
> element working on the bi-metal spring?
> Also, have you checked the base setting of the butterfly itself?
> How about intake leaks? Gaskets, bent flanges etc.


This is the kicker, the choke is working fine. Carb is a Solex
(actually made by/for Kafer) 34 PICT/3 on a 1600cc dual port. Manifold
isn't stock, but the same type just done in aluminum:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=526

I swapped the exhaust a few weeks ago. The car didn't have the problem
before the exhaust swap, but temperatures here did just drop, too. The
engine starts wonderfully from dead cold only to just stall 15-20
seconds later and from there on it runs like poo until the oil temp
comes up.

By 'running like poo', I'll define that as if it's running on three
cylinders with horrendous bog. plugs are fresh. It doesn't appear to
be ignition as I've pulled plug wires while it's doing this and each I
pull makes the engine run slower and even more out-of-balance. So it's
not ignition.

I'm convinced I have an intense wall wetting problem I can cure with a
warmer intake manifold.

Again, it runs fine when warm. I only say 'fine' cause I'm sick of the
lame aircooled.net SVDA distro I've had for the past 5 years and I'm
dropping in a Mallory Unilite series 47 from another motor I'm not using
so I can finally tune it to a proper curve.

I will check (again) for a tight valve in the morning, but it holds a
steady valve adjustment.

--



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In article >,
David Gravereaux > wrote:

> Again, it runs fine when warm. I only say 'fine' cause I'm sick of the
> lame aircooled.net SVDA distro I've had for the past 5 years and I'm
> dropping in a Mallory Unilite series 47 from another motor I'm not using
> so I can finally tune it to a proper curve.

Consider dual Kadrons. On each of my AVWS I run short-intake duals (One
with two dual Webers, the other with dual Kadrons. No icing. Ever.

On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 09:23:30 +0100, David Gravereaux >
wrote:

> On 12/07/2011 11:07 PM, P.J.Berg wrote:
>> On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 18:28:12 +0100, David Gravereaux
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> On 12/07/2011 07:30 AM, P.J.Berg wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 10:35:39 +0100, tricky
>>>> > wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Doesn't Carb icing occur whilst you are driving ... not before you
>>>>> start the engine ! ?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yup.
>>>> When it happens and the car stalls, you can sit and wait it out until
>>>> the heat soak has thawed the carb and manifold.
>>>
>>>
>>> Exactly my issue. It starts fine from dead cold, but stalls after 15
>>> seconds. runs like poo for the next five minutes. Temp of the carb
>>> base drops about 8 degrees C from ambient to just a few above freezing.
>>> preheat, now, isn't doing much work on the manifold to keep it warm
>>> with the newer exhaust. Later when the oil temp comes up, it runs
>>> fine.
>>>
>>> must make more heat... electrically.
>>>
>>
>> What you are describing is not carb icing, it would never happen after
>> 15sec, only when you actually drive the car with partly open
>> throttle/high vacuum.
>> The preheater tubes even when connected to a proper exhaust would not
>> even start to get warm after 15sec.
>>
>> I have not this whole thread saved and cant remember your exact carb.
>>
>> It sounds like a typical auto choke issue.
>> Have you checked setting/freedom of movement and function of the heater
>> element working on the bi-metal spring?
>> Also, have you checked the base setting of the butterfly itself?
>> How about intake leaks? Gaskets, bent flanges etc.
>
>
> This is the kicker, the choke is working fine. Carb is a Solex
> (actually made by/for Kafer) 34 PICT/3 on a 1600cc dual port. Manifold
> isn't stock, but the same type just done in aluminum:
>
> http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=526
>
> I swapped the exhaust a few weeks ago. The car didn't have the problem
> before the exhaust swap, but temperatures here did just drop, too. The
> engine starts wonderfully from dead cold only to just stall 15-20
> seconds later and from there on it runs like poo until the oil temp
> comes up.
>
> By 'running like poo', I'll define that as if it's running on three
> cylinders with horrendous bog. plugs are fresh. It doesn't appear to
> be ignition as I've pulled plug wires while it's doing this and each I
> pull makes the engine run slower and even more out-of-balance. So it's
> not ignition.
>
> I'm convinced I have an intense wall wetting problem I can cure with a
> warmer intake manifold.
>
> Again, it runs fine when warm. I only say 'fine' cause I'm sick of the
> lame aircooled.net SVDA distro I've had for the past 5 years and I'm
> dropping in a Mallory Unilite series 47 from another motor I'm not using
> so I can finally tune it to a proper curve.
>
> I will check (again) for a tight valve in the morning, but it holds a
> steady valve adjustment.
>

Have you got a stock Solex carb to try out?

It could very well be that the fuel metering on the replacement carb is
out of whack, I'm thinking idle and transition circuit.
Also make sure the base setting of the butterfly is spot on(choke 100%
off, slack throttle cable, the screw on top of the long lever facing the
rear -> off its stop on the carb body, screw it in until it barely touches
the stop, then 1/4 turn inwards).

Make sure to check the two rubber boots/grommets(I forget the name) on the
intake very carefully, have been burned there myself once.

J.

Ps.
Unless the Mallory comes with a vacuum sensor i would stick to the svda
dizzy.

Pps.
A tight valve would only get worse as the engine heats up.


--
P.J.Berg

--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---

On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 09:23:30 +0100, David Gravereaux >
wrote:

> On 12/07/2011 11:07 PM, P.J.Berg wrote:
>> On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 18:28:12 +0100, David Gravereaux
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> On 12/07/2011 07:30 AM, P.J.Berg wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 10:35:39 +0100, tricky
>>>> > wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Doesn't Carb icing occur whilst you are driving ... not before you
>>>>> start the engine ! ?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yup.
>>>> When it happens and the car stalls, you can sit and wait it out until
>>>> the heat soak has thawed the carb and manifold.
>>>
>>>
>>> Exactly my issue. It starts fine from dead cold, but stalls after 15
>>> seconds. runs like poo for the next five minutes. Temp of the carb
>>> base drops about 8 degrees C from ambient to just a few above freezing.
>>> preheat, now, isn't doing much work on the manifold to keep it warm
>>> with the newer exhaust. Later when the oil temp comes up, it runs
>>> fine.
>>>
>>> must make more heat... electrically.
>>>
>>
>> What you are describing is not carb icing, it would never happen after
>> 15sec, only when you actually drive the car with partly open
>> throttle/high vacuum.
>> The preheater tubes even when connected to a proper exhaust would not
>> even start to get warm after 15sec.
>>
>> I have not this whole thread saved and cant remember your exact carb.
>>
>> It sounds like a typical auto choke issue.
>> Have you checked setting/freedom of movement and function of the heater
>> element working on the bi-metal spring?
>> Also, have you checked the base setting of the butterfly itself?
>> How about intake leaks? Gaskets, bent flanges etc.
>
>
> This is the kicker, the choke is working fine. Carb is a Solex
> (actually made by/for Kafer) 34 PICT/3 on a 1600cc dual port. Manifold
> isn't stock, but the same type just done in aluminum:
>
> http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=526
>
> I swapped the exhaust a few weeks ago. The car didn't have the problem
> before the exhaust swap, but temperatures here did just drop, too. The
> engine starts wonderfully from dead cold only to just stall 15-20
> seconds later and from there on it runs like poo until the oil temp
> comes up.
>
> By 'running like poo', I'll define that as if it's running on three
> cylinders with horrendous bog. plugs are fresh. It doesn't appear to
> be ignition as I've pulled plug wires while it's doing this and each I
> pull makes the engine run slower and even more out-of-balance. So it's
> not ignition.
>
> I'm convinced I have an intense wall wetting problem I can cure with a
> warmer intake manifold.
>
> Again, it runs fine when warm. I only say 'fine' cause I'm sick of the
> lame aircooled.net SVDA distro I've had for the past 5 years and I'm
> dropping in a Mallory Unilite series 47 from another motor I'm not using
> so I can finally tune it to a proper curve.
>
> I will check (again) for a tight valve in the morning, but it holds a
> steady valve adjustment.
>

Have you had a look he
http://www.vw-resource.com/hestate4.html

J.

--
P.J.Berg

--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---

On Thu, 08 Dec 2011 09:23:30 +0100, David Gravereaux >
wrote:

> On 12/07/2011 11:07 PM, P.J.Berg wrote:
>> On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 18:28:12 +0100, David Gravereaux
>> > wrote:
>>
>>> On 12/07/2011 07:30 AM, P.J.Berg wrote:
>>>> On Wed, 07 Dec 2011 10:35:39 +0100, tricky
>>>> > wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Doesn't Carb icing occur whilst you are driving ... not before you
>>>>> start the engine ! ?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Yup.
>>>> When it happens and the car stalls, you can sit and wait it out until
>>>> the heat soak has thawed the carb and manifold.
>>>
>>>
>>> Exactly my issue. It starts fine from dead cold, but stalls after 15
>>> seconds. runs like poo for the next five minutes. Temp of the carb
>>> base drops about 8 degrees C from ambient to just a few above freezing.
>>> preheat, now, isn't doing much work on the manifold to keep it warm
>>> with the newer exhaust. Later when the oil temp comes up, it runs
>>> fine.
>>>
>>> must make more heat... electrically.
>>>
>>
>> What you are describing is not carb icing, it would never happen after
>> 15sec, only when you actually drive the car with partly open
>> throttle/high vacuum.
>> The preheater tubes even when connected to a proper exhaust would not
>> even start to get warm after 15sec.
>>
>> I have not this whole thread saved and cant remember your exact carb.
>>
>> It sounds like a typical auto choke issue.
>> Have you checked setting/freedom of movement and function of the heater
>> element working on the bi-metal spring?
>> Also, have you checked the base setting of the butterfly itself?
>> How about intake leaks? Gaskets, bent flanges etc.
>
>
> This is the kicker, the choke is working fine. Carb is a Solex
> (actually made by/for Kafer) 34 PICT/3 on a 1600cc dual port. Manifold
> isn't stock, but the same type just done in aluminum:
>
> http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=526
>
> I swapped the exhaust a few weeks ago. The car didn't have the problem
> before the exhaust swap, but temperatures here did just drop, too. The
> engine starts wonderfully from dead cold only to just stall 15-20
> seconds later and from there on it runs like poo until the oil temp
> comes up.
>
> By 'running like poo', I'll define that as if it's running on three
> cylinders with horrendous bog. plugs are fresh. It doesn't appear to
> be ignition as I've pulled plug wires while it's doing this and each I
> pull makes the engine run slower and even more out-of-balance. So it's
> not ignition.
>
> I'm convinced I have an intense wall wetting problem I can cure with a
> warmer intake manifold.
>
> Again, it runs fine when warm. I only say 'fine' cause I'm sick of the
> lame aircooled.net SVDA distro I've had for the past 5 years and I'm
> dropping in a Mallory Unilite series 47 from another motor I'm not using
> so I can finally tune it to a proper curve.
>
> I will check (again) for a tight valve in the morning, but it holds a
> steady valve adjustment.
>

Here is a page demonstrating modifying a header for stock heat riser hook
up.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/vie...=asc&st art=0

I was actually looking for a different pic. I have seen somewhere, this
however works the same way.
If you look at some of the posts in that thread you will see the late
Mr.Hoover giving his approval, that should count for something. )

I cant remember whether your exhaust had a header with collector behind
the silencer or not.

J.


--
P.J.Berg

--- Posted via news://freenews.netfront.net/ - Complaints to ---

On 12/08/2011 02:30 AM, John J Stafford wrote:
> In article >,
> David Gravereaux > wrote:
>
>> Again, it runs fine when warm. I only say 'fine' cause I'm sick of the
>> lame aircooled.net SVDA distro I've had for the past 5 years and I'm
>> dropping in a Mallory Unilite series 47 from another motor I'm not using
>> so I can finally tune it to a proper curve.
>
> Consider dual Kadrons. On each of my AVWS I run short-intake duals (One
> with two dual Webers, the other with dual Kadrons. No icing. Ever.

Agreed! I'm thinking the redline K1411 kit with the Weber ICT carbs
(but with manual choke)

--



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