Preheater box (pipe)

The preheater box is connected to the heat exchanger with a 1 1/2"
clamp. I can't connect the right preheater box to the heat exchanger at
all. Can this pose a potential problem to the engine?

Thanks in advance

azazel scratch wrote:

> The preheater box is connected to the heat exchanger with a 1 1/2"
> clamp. I can't connect the right preheater box to the heat exchanger at
> all. Can this pose a potential problem to the engine?
>
> Thanks in advance
>

The worst is that a very small amount of cooling air will escape.
I would consider it a minor problem which could wait until Spring
to fix...

Speedy Jim
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/

azazel scratch wrote:
> I can't connect the right preheater box to the heat exchanger at
> all.
------------------------------------

Yes you can :-) But only if you begin with the muffler and both heat
exchangers loose. Align the coupling THEN begin tightening things
down.

Or... with everything already tight, forget about using the stock
coupling/clamp and make a new one. Use thin gauge stainless steel
(.010") if you can get it, or 'beer-can' aluminum (although a real beer
can does not provide a long enough piece of metal). You need a strip
about 10" long by 2" wide. Wrap it over a piece of 1" water pipe or
similar -- you want it to curl up like a piece of film. Then simply
uncurl it and slide it around the junction between the plenum chamber
and the heat exchanger. Once it is in place (loose is fine) install a
pair of hose clamps, about 4" in diameter... and start tightening them
down, a little at a time, keeping the clamps centered on the plenum or
heat-exchanger.

You can use tape, wire or anything else that works to hold the sleeve
in place whilst installing the hose clamps, which you have to open in
order to fit them around the sleeve.

Once things are tightened down you can clip the ends of the hose, toss
the tape, etc.

---------------------------------

This should have been done with the engine out of the vehicle. The
stock part works perfectly well but only when properly installed (ie,
all components loose to begin to begin with).

----------------------------------------------------------

> Can this pose a potential problem to the engine?

----------------------------------------------------------

Big YES!

Any leak in the cooling system causes a loss of cooling air PRESSURE.

Air expands as it picks up heat; it gets 'sticky,' down between the
fins of the heads. You must have the designed amount of PRESSURE to
ensure adequate air flow.

Any... ANY! ...loss of pressure ANYWHERE in the system will cause the
hottest parts of the heads to run even hotter, since there will not be
enough pressure to push the heated air out of the fins. Net effect is
to shorten the life of your exhaust valves, accelerate wear of the
exhaust valve guides, blow a lot of combustion products into the valve
galleries and build up a nice layer of varnish. And yes, Virginia,
even in the winter time.

If you want to run without the cabin heater you should block the
outlets on the blower housing with Welch plugs, secured with sheet
metal screws or pop-rivets.

-Bob Hoover