Heater Core / Electrical Problems (2.3 Sleeper posting)

Which flasher was replaced..... on yours (it'd be nice if you could remind
us oldtimers what year), the hazard flasher and TS flasher may be separate
and not mounted near each other.

Replacing the hazard flasher wont help signals at all..


"2.3Sleeper" > wrote in message
oups.com...
>
> CobraJet wrote:
> > In article >, CobraJet
> > > wrote:
> >
> > > In article .com>,
> > > 2.3Sleeper > wrote:
> > >
> > > > Okay, so I paid to have the heater core done. Before I went in,
> my
> > > > blinkers worked. Now they don't. The fuse was replaced, and we
> replaced
> > > > the combo switch as well. Still no blinkers. The hazards do work.
> > > >
> > > > The steering column was dropped straight down, and the right side
> of
> > > > the dash was pulled out. The shop is thinking maybe a ground has
> come
> > > > loose somewhere. Or possibly they pinched a wire.
> > > >
> > > > My question is: Where does the blinker switch ground out? Or how
> does
> > > > it ground out? I would like to fix this myself before having to
> drop
> > > > the car off again for a full day next week.
> > >
> > > There is no ground for blinkers. The turn signal stalk completes
> the
> > > 12v to either right or left blinkers, and the amount of amperage
> draw
> > > determines the on-of rate throught the flasher unit. This is why
> > > blinker speed up when one of the bubs is out. The only grounds are
> at
> > > the lights themselves.
> > >
> > > The 12v feed up to the column switch has been severed somehow.
> >
> > The blinker flasher is usually in a clip. The connector may have
> > pulled out of it when the coulmn was dropped.
>
> The flasher was replaced, which would mean that it isn't unplugged.
>
> Don Manning
>
>
>
> >
> > > >
> > > > If I turn my hazards on, then use my turn signal, no matter which
> way I
> > > > select (right or left) the hazards quit working and only the left
> > > > blinker flashes. This is very strange.
> > > >
> > > > Any help would be appreciated.
> > > >
> > > > Don Manning
> > > >
> >
> > --
> > CobraJet
> > Thunder Snake #1
>

"Jim Warman" > wrote in message
news:0ofPd.49074$tU6.47503@edtnps91...
> Which flasher was replaced..... on yours (it'd be nice if you could remind
> us oldtimers what year), the hazard flasher and TS flasher may be separate
> and not mounted near each other.
>
> Replacing the hazard flasher wont help signals at all..

They are seperate flasher units. Originally, we thought the flasher had gone
bad coincidentally. So we pulled the hazard flasher and hooked it into the
turn signal plug and it still didn't work. So we ordered a new flasher and
plug it in and it didn't work. We have power at the flasher using a tester
on it.

Don Manning




>
>
> "2.3Sleeper" > wrote in message
> oups.com...
> >
> > CobraJet wrote:
> > > In article >, CobraJet
> > > > wrote:
> > >
> > > > In article .com>,
> > > > 2.3Sleeper > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > Okay, so I paid to have the heater core done. Before I went in,
> > my
> > > > > blinkers worked. Now they don't. The fuse was replaced, and we
> > replaced
> > > > > the combo switch as well. Still no blinkers. The hazards do work.
> > > > >
> > > > > The steering column was dropped straight down, and the right side
> > of
> > > > > the dash was pulled out. The shop is thinking maybe a ground has
> > come
> > > > > loose somewhere. Or possibly they pinched a wire.
> > > > >
> > > > > My question is: Where does the blinker switch ground out? Or how
> > does
> > > > > it ground out? I would like to fix this myself before having to
> > drop
> > > > > the car off again for a full day next week.
> > > >
> > > > There is no ground for blinkers. The turn signal stalk completes
> > the
> > > > 12v to either right or left blinkers, and the amount of amperage
> > draw
> > > > determines the on-of rate throught the flasher unit. This is why
> > > > blinker speed up when one of the bubs is out. The only grounds are
> > at
> > > > the lights themselves.
> > > >
> > > > The 12v feed up to the column switch has been severed somehow.
> > >
> > > The blinker flasher is usually in a clip. The connector may have
> > > pulled out of it when the coulmn was dropped.
> >
> > The flasher was replaced, which would mean that it isn't unplugged.
> >
> > Don Manning
> >
> >
> >
> > >
> > > > >
> > > > > If I turn my hazards on, then use my turn signal, no matter which
> > way I
> > > > > select (right or left) the hazards quit working and only the left
> > > > > blinker flashes. This is very strange.
> > > > >
> > > > > Any help would be appreciated.
> > > > >
> > > > > Don Manning
> > > > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > CobraJet
> > > Thunder Snake #1
> >
>
>

"Mike R" > wrote in message
...
> In article . com>,
> "2.3Sleeper" > wrote:
>
> > I will tear back into it tomorrow. I was kinda leaning on a wire
> > getting pinched or something. At first, I thought something had to be
> > wrong because the hazards still worked, but then I remembered they each
> > have their own flasher and are independent of each other.
> >
> > I will check tomorrow and see what I can find. Should I pull the combo
> > switch, disconnect each plug and follow each wire individually? Any
> > known areas where something might get pinched routinely on one of these
> > jobs?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Don Manning
>
> Start with something easy. Verify 12 volt power at the T/S flasher input
> with a voltmeter or test lamp. Ignition switch should be in the run
> position.

There is power at the flasher unit itself. Forgot to mention that.

Don Manning


You can work with the diagram flow mentioned in my other post. I
> could give wire color codes, but they may differ between model years.
> Another thing would be to remove and short the T/S flasher connector with
> a jumper, place the multifunction switch to left or right position, and
> with the ignition switch to run, verify the right/left indicator lamp on
> the instrument panal to illuminate. Depending on the outcome, you'll know
> whether the fault is up or down stream and go from there...
>
> --
> Mike
> 93 Cobra

In article >, "2.3Sleeper"
> wrote:

> "Mike R" > wrote in message
>
...
> > In article . com>,
> > "2.3Sleeper" > wrote:
> >
> > > I will tear back into it tomorrow. I was kinda leaning on a wire
> > > getting pinched or something. At first, I thought something had to be
> > > wrong because the hazards still worked, but then I remembered they each
> > > have their own flasher and are independent of each other.
> > >
> > > I will check tomorrow and see what I can find. Should I pull the combo
> > > switch, disconnect each plug and follow each wire individually? Any
> > > known areas where something might get pinched routinely on one of these
> > > jobs?
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Don Manning
> >
> > Start with something easy. Verify 12 volt power at the T/S flasher input
> > with a voltmeter or test lamp. Ignition switch should be in the run
> > position.
>
> There is power at the flasher unit itself. Forgot to mention that.

Go to the hazard switch. Disconnect and verify power at harness connector
pin (S) with ignition switch to run. Turn off ignition switch and ohm out
the hazard switch between (S) and (F) terminals verifying continuity with
switch in off position. If everything checks out, the fault should be
downstream from there.

At that point, I would check continuity between the hazard switch harness
connector, pin (F) and chassis ground with the multi-function switch lever
set to right or left turn position. With front/rear turn lamps and dash
indicator all in parallel, there should be a low resistance to ground.
Flip the multi-function switch lever to the other direction and the
resistance measurement should have a similar indication. Use a cheap
ohmmeter to measure this. One of these checks should hopefully flag an
open circuit somewhere...

--
Mike
93 Cobra

> You can work with the diagram flow mentioned in my other post. I
> > could give wire color codes, but they may differ between model years.
> > Another thing would be to remove and short the T/S flasher connector with
> > a jumper, place the multifunction switch to left or right position, and
> > with the ignition switch to run, verify the right/left indicator lamp on
> > the instrument panal to illuminate. Depending on the outcome, you'll know
> > whether the fault is up or down stream and go from there...
> >
> > --
> > Mike
> > 93 Cobra

"Mike R" > wrote in message
...
> In article .com>,
> "2.3Sleeper" > wrote:
>
> > All of the fuses checked good. We went back through the entire fuse box
> > and checked each one thinking maybe something else could be messed up.
> >
> > Now, when I first got the car back, the horn and cruise control (same
> > circuit) where not working also. That fixed with a fuse change and
> > hasn't messed up yet.
>
> Sounds like the power distribution is set up differently between Fox
> years, not surprisingly. What does fuse position #5 power???
>
You are correct on Fuse #5. It controls backup lights and turn signals. As
stated previously though, it is good.

Don Manning



> --
> Mike
> 93 Cobra
>
> >
> > I will verify again when I get home, but I think I will be wasting my
> > time.
> >
> > Don Manning

In article
.
net>, Mike R > wrote:

> In article >, "2.3Sleeper"
> > wrote:
>
> > "Mike R" > wrote in message
> >
>
>
> et...
> > > In article . com>,
> > > "2.3Sleeper" > wrote:
> > >
> > > > I will tear back into it tomorrow. I was kinda leaning on a wire
> > > > getting pinched or something. At first, I thought something had to be
> > > > wrong because the hazards still worked, but then I remembered they each
> > > > have their own flasher and are independent of each other.
> > > >
> > > > I will check tomorrow and see what I can find. Should I pull the combo
> > > > switch, disconnect each plug and follow each wire individually? Any
> > > > known areas where something might get pinched routinely on one of these
> > > > jobs?
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Don Manning
> > >
> > > Start with something easy. Verify 12 volt power at the T/S flasher input
> > > with a voltmeter or test lamp. Ignition switch should be in the run
> > > position.
> >
> > There is power at the flasher unit itself. Forgot to mention that.
>
> Go to the hazard switch. Disconnect and verify power at harness connector
> pin (S) with ignition switch to run. Turn off ignition switch and ohm out
> the hazard switch between (S) and (F) terminals verifying continuity with
> switch in off position. If everything checks out, the fault should be
> downstream from there.
>
> At that point, I would check continuity between the hazard switch harness
> connector, pin (F) and chassis ground with the multi-function switch lever
> set to right or left turn position. With front/rear turn lamps and dash
> indicator all in parallel, there should be a low resistance to ground.
> Flip the multi-function switch lever to the other direction and the
> resistance measurement should have a similar indication. Use a cheap
> ohmmeter to measure this. One of these checks should hopefully flag an
> open circuit somewhere...

Yes, but for *both* to be NF it has to be the common 12v feed from
the flasher (assuming it's good) to the turn signal switch. I have no
wiring colors for the later cars. Online?


>
> --
> Mike
> 93 Cobra
>
> > You can work with the diagram flow mentioned in my other post. I
> > > could give wire color codes, but they may differ between model years.
> > > Another thing would be to remove and short the T/S flasher connector with
> > > a jumper, place the multifunction switch to left or right position, and
> > > with the ignition switch to run, verify the right/left indicator lamp on
> > > the instrument panal to illuminate. Depending on the outcome, you'll know
> > > whether the fault is up or down stream and go from there...
> > >
> > > --
> > > Mike
> > > 93 Cobra

--
CobraJet
Thunder Snake #1

In article >, Number One wrote:

> In article
> .
> net>, Mike R > wrote:
>
> > In article >, "2.3Sleeper"
> > > wrote:
> >
> > > "Mike R" > wrote in message
> > >
> >
> >

> > et...
> > > > In article . com>,
> > > > "2.3Sleeper" > wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I will tear back into it tomorrow. I was kinda leaning on a wire
> > > > > getting pinched or something. At first, I thought something had to be
> > > > > wrong because the hazards still worked, but then I remembered
they each
> > > > > have their own flasher and are independent of each other.
> > > > >
> > > > > I will check tomorrow and see what I can find. Should I pull the combo
> > > > > switch, disconnect each plug and follow each wire individually? Any
> > > > > known areas where something might get pinched routinely on one
of these
> > > > > jobs?
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks,
> > > > >
> > > > > Don Manning
> > > >
> > > > Start with something easy. Verify 12 volt power at the T/S flasher input
> > > > with a voltmeter or test lamp. Ignition switch should be in the run
> > > > position.
> > >
> > > There is power at the flasher unit itself. Forgot to mention that.
> >
> > Go to the hazard switch. Disconnect and verify power at harness connector
> > pin (S) with ignition switch to run. Turn off ignition switch and ohm out
> > the hazard switch between (S) and (F) terminals verifying continuity with
> > switch in off position. If everything checks out, the fault should be
> > downstream from there.
> >
> > At that point, I would check continuity between the hazard switch harness
> > connector, pin (F) and chassis ground with the multi-function switch lever
> > set to right or left turn position. With front/rear turn lamps and dash
> > indicator all in parallel, there should be a low resistance to ground.
> > Flip the multi-function switch lever to the other direction and the
> > resistance measurement should have a similar indication. Use a cheap
> > ohmmeter to measure this. One of these checks should hopefully flag an
> > open circuit somewhere...
>
> Yes, but for *both* to be NF it has to be the common 12v feed from
> the flasher (assuming it's good) to the turn signal switch.

Agreed. I'm trying to help pinpoint where the open circuit is initially
without tearing too much into the dash or column. I'm figuring between the
T/S flasher and T/S switch as well, based on Don's posts. I'm using the
hazard switch as the go between point. The last paragraph mentioned above
might make for a quick check between the hazard switch feed and T/S switch
before digging into the steering column. It's no fun disassembling unless
you're fairly confident where the fault lies. Saves time and frustration.
That's my approach anyway. Tracing wire harnesses can be a bear sometimes
as I'm sure you know.

>I have no wiring colors for the later cars. Online?

I have wiring colors for 93 models, but they may not agree with his year
Fox (88?). I know this from helping others with early Fox cars. I used pin
locations instead. I haven't heard back from him. Hell, he may have it
resolved by now...

--
Mike
93 Cobra

> > > You can work with the diagram flow mentioned in my other post. I
> > > > could give wire color codes, but they may differ between model years.
> > > > Another thing would be to remove and short the T/S flasher
connector with
> > > > a jumper, place the multifunction switch to left or right position, and
> > > > with the ignition switch to run, verify the right/left indicator lamp on
> > > > the instrument panal to illuminate. Depending on the outcome,
you'll know
> > > > whether the fault is up or down stream and go from there...
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > Mike
> > > > 93 Cobra