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#1
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stupid rear brake drum
Hey all
98 civic lx canadian, Manual trannie, 220000kms my stupid rear passenger brake is draggin. About a year ago, while it was friggin freezing out, i noticed that my e-brake was not disengaging properly. I disconnected it inside the car (easy enough) and left the driver side connected so that I still have functionality (albeit not much) left for when I park my car. I do not leave it in gear, as I have a remote starter. Anyone have any ideas on whether this prob can be repaired, or if I have to replace the entire cable for that side of the e-brake? t |
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#2
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disallow wrote:
> Hey all > > 98 civic lx canadian, Manual trannie, 220000kms > > my stupid rear passenger brake is draggin. About > a year ago, while it was friggin freezing out, > i noticed that my e-brake was not disengaging > properly. I disconnected it inside the car > (easy enough) and left the driver side connected > so that I still have functionality (albeit not > much) left for when I park my car. I do not leave it in gear, as I have a > remote starter. > > Anyone have any ideas on whether this prob can > be repaired, or if I have to replace the entire > cable for that side of the e-brake? > ------------------------- You'll need a torque driver to get the phillips screws out to take a look . . It's very basic drum brakes inside. Pick up a Chilton's at the dealer, or better yet, there's some great stuff and links at TeGGer's FAQ about rusted brakes. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ 'Cruly' |
#3
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Also you shouldn't really be using your parking break when it is freezing
because sometimes it will just freeze in the on position and cause you lots of problems. "disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in message lkaboutautos.com... > Hey all > > 98 civic lx canadian, Manual trannie, 220000kms > > my stupid rear passenger brake is draggin. About > a year ago, while it was friggin freezing out, > i noticed that my e-brake was not disengaging > properly. I disconnected it inside the car > (easy enough) and left the driver side connected > so that I still have functionality (albeit not > much) left for when I park my car. I do not leave it in gear, as I have a > remote starter. > > Anyone have any ideas on whether this prob can > be repaired, or if I have to replace the entire > cable for that side of the e-brake? > > t > > > |
#4
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"motsco_ _" <"motsco_ > wrote in
: > > You'll need a torque driver to get the phillips screws out to take a > look . . It's very basic drum brakes inside. Pick up a Chilton's at > the dealer, or better yet, there's some great stuff and links at > TeGGer's FAQ about rusted brakes. > http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ I haven't covered drums yet, though. A Chiltons/Haynes (normally crappy manuals) are good for basic stuff like drum brakes. Also useful for beginners is this site: http://auto.howstuffworks.com/drum-brake.htm -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#5
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"disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in
lkaboutautos.com: > Hey all > > 98 civic lx canadian, Manual trannie, 220000kms > > my stupid rear passenger brake is draggin. About > a year ago, while it was friggin freezing out, > i noticed that my e-brake was not disengaging > properly. Probably the cable was frozen inside its sheath. If you reconnect it now, you'll probably find it's working fine now. > I disconnected it inside the car > (easy enough) and left the driver side connected > so that I still have functionality (albeit not > much) left for when I park my car. I do not leave it in gear, as I > have a remote starter. Not a great idea at all... > > Anyone have any ideas on whether this prob can > be repaired, or if I have to replace the entire > cable for that side of the e-brake? Sounds like you need to replace the parking brake cable, which is an easy job. Best to do both at the same time, as if one is bad, the other won't be far behind. You can check this by jacking up the rear of the car, removing both drums, disconnecting the cables from the mechanism (usually means complete disassembly), and then push/pull the cables to see if they both slide freely. Check any and all rubber bellows for splitting, which is how the water gets inside. Cables can suffer from rust, ingress of water, and binding due to impact and jacking damage. Drums brakes themselves are usually pretty reliable, because the mechanism is shielded from the weather. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#6
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"halo2 guy" > wrote in
: > Also you shouldn't really be using your parking break when it is > freezing because sometimes it will just freeze in the on position and > cause you lots of problems. Only true if the rubber sealing bellows are broken. -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#7
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Thanks for the detailed response, Tegger. My replies are embedded in your
message below: > > Probably the cable was frozen inside its sheath. If you reconnect it now, > you'll probably find it's working fine now. Actually, I did that, and that is why I am having problems now. Very frustrating, but I did this based on the same logic as above. Guess it must be physical damage to the sheath or its rusted inside. Is there a spring in there? > > > I disconnected it inside the car > > (easy enough) and left the driver side connected > > so that I still have functionality (albeit not > > much) left for when I park my car. I do not leave it in gear, as I > > have a remote starter. > > Not a great idea at all... > What's not a great idea? Having a remote starter? (waste of gas in my car, since at idle it really doesn't warm up much. but i have it, and use it, gives about 20 seconds of running time before I take off since I normally start it while walking up to the car. ya ya, i know people don't think you need to idle before driving, I just do it... Its built into my car alarm...) Or disconnecting the e-brake is a bad idea? Well, fortunately I live in Winnipeg. I can practically see the CN tower from here, so yes, I would agree that if I lived in BC or Alberta, this would be an incredibly terrible idea, but here in Manitoba where you can watch your dog run away for 3 days, not as big of a concern. And it does catch enough to prevent rolling on even some fairly steep grades like driveways and stuff. I do however plan on tackling this problem this summer, while I do my rear brake shoes. They've never been done, 220000kms on em. I guess they are glazed, cuz they've been at about 2 millimeters for like the last 100000kms. lol.... > Sounds like you need to replace the parking brake cable, which is an easy > job. Best to do both at the same time, as if one is bad, the other won't > be > far behind. > I suppose it makes sense to do both. They would probably end up being different lengths if I only did one, since the old one would be stretched some. Another question, since I will be doing the shoes at the same time, is there a kit from Honda available with all the springs and related hardware? Probably time to think about replacing all that crap too. Maybe resurface the drums too.... is that worth it? I should probably put this in another topic, but here goes anyways: A couple years ago I went to a non-Honda shop to get my brakes inspected. My uncle worked there so I figured he could get me a deal. Well anyways, they adjusted my brakes somehow so that it changed the ratio of front to back application, ie before I went in, the ratio was probably 80:20 front brake power to rear brake power. My pedal went down pretty far, and I think it was probably a little too extreme. The shop adjusted the brakes so that it was more like 50:50 or 60:40 front to back. I felt this was a little extreme. He also adjusted the e-brake at the time to like 1-2 clicks (which is easy to change, but I thought I would mention). Anyways, is there an easy way to adjust this? Is it an adjustment in the drum somewhere? So when you gonna get the drum FAQ goin? Thanks a heap. Terry > -- > TeGGeR(r) > > The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ > www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
#8
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hafto use the park brake, otherwise my command
start won't work. its c-c-c-cold here in winter.... |
#9
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#10
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"disallow" <loewen_t at yahoo.ca @> wrote in
lkaboutautos.com: > Thanks for the detailed response, Tegger. My replies are embedded in > your message below: > >> >> Probably the cable was frozen inside its sheath. If you reconnect it > now, >> you'll probably find it's working fine now. > > Actually, I did that, and that is why I am having > problems now. Very frustrating, but I did this > based on the same logic as above. Guess it > must be physical damage to the sheath or its > rusted inside. Is there a spring in there? It can rust inside if enough water gets in for long enough. Probably what's happended to you now. > >> >> > I disconnected it inside the car >> > (easy enough) and left the driver side connected >> > so that I still have functionality (albeit not >> > much) left for when I park my car. I do not leave it in gear, as I >> > have a remote starter. >> >> Not a great idea at all... >> > > What's not a great idea? <snip> > > Or disconnecting the e-brake is a bad idea? Yeah. You're letting it sit in neutral, no parking brake. Somebody bumps your car and it will roll into...? > Well, > fortunately I live in Winnipeg. I can practically > see the CN tower from here, I know, I've been to Winterpeg. Flat like a damn table. Cars disappear in the distance haze before they ever even come close to disappearing over the horizon. > so yes, I would agree > that if I lived in BC or Alberta, this would be > an incredibly terrible idea, but here in Manitoba > where you can watch your dog run away for 3 days, Not at Riding Mountain National Park! That's the pimple on Manitoba's face. <more snippage> > > The shop adjusted the brakes so that it was > more like 50:50 or 60:40 front to back. I felt > this was a little extreme. He also adjusted the > e-brake at the time to like 1-2 clicks (which is > easy to change, but I thought I would mention). > > Anyways, is there an easy way to adjust this? Is > it an adjustment in the drum somewhere? The adjustment is inside the drum. The parking brake cable is given final adjustement AFTER the shoes are bedded in. There is only ONE correct way to adjust them, and proper feel is very much dependent on lots of factors, not just shoe adjustment. The number of clicks of the parking brake needs to be just enough that when the handle is released, the brakes don't drag. 1-2 clicks doesn't sound like enough. Usually it's 4 or 5. I forget just now if Honda adjusts drums with the parking brake or by stepping on the brakes while backing up. Either way, it would be obvious by pulling the drum off. > > So when you gonna get the drum FAQ goin? Soon... -- TeGGeR® The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ |
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