49 Chrysler with no compression

I was wondering if it's possible to access the valves without removing
the manifolds?

On Wed, 8 Aug 2007 11:51:45 UTC, Nza > wrote:

> I was wondering if it's possible to access the valves without removing
> the manifolds?
On the passenger side front tire, remove it and there is a panel on
the wheel well, remove that and you should see the side valve cover.
Make sure that you have a new gasket, which you can order from
Bernbaum. The cover is held on with two wing type nuts, easy to
remove.


--
"What do you mean there's no movie?"

On Aug 8, 11:30 am, >
wrote:
> On Wed, 8 Aug 2007 11:51:45 UTC, Nza > wrote:
> > I was wondering if it's possible to access the valves without removing
> > the manifolds?
>
> On the passenger side front tire, remove it and there is a panel on
> the wheel well, remove that and you should see the side valve cover.
> Make sure that you have a new gasket, which you can order from
> Bernbaum. The cover is held on with two wing type nuts, easy to
> remove.
>
> --
> "What do you mean there's no movie?"

Awesome! I truly value your (and the others as well) information on
this car. I wish I had paid attention to the car about 10 years
ago.. Now, I am way more thoughtful than I was at age 21.. however,
the engine might not now be in the condition of stuck-open valves had
i been as thoughtful then.. ah well.. it will run soon!

Nza wrote:

> I was wondering if it's possible to access the valves without removing
> the manifolds?

Define "access."

IIRC, you can get to the cover and remove it and look around (and maybe
even compress some of the springs) with the manifolds in place. But I
don't think you can get a spring compressor at all of them without
removing at least the exhaust pipe, if not the manifold itself. If
you're just going to inspect/clean/unstick things then give it a try.
Remember, you can remove the hole fender to improve access, if
necessary. Not that big a job.

On Aug 8, 3:37 pm, Steve > wrote:
> Nza wrote:
> > I was wondering if it's possible to access the valves without removing
> > the manifolds?
>
> Define "access."
>
> IIRC, you can get to the cover and remove it and look around (and maybe
> even compress some of the springs) with the manifolds in place. But I
> don't think you can get a spring compressor at all of them without
> removing at least the exhaust pipe, if not the manifold itself. If
> you're just going to inspect/clean/unstick things then give it a try.
> Remember, you can remove the hole fender to improve access, if
> necessary. Not that big a job.


Indeed, what you say is what I intend to do... just try initially to
free the valves via the valve covers. I went out and sprayed all the
fasteners with PB B'laster on the inner fender... let me tell you..
that is one hell of an inner fender... i was expecting some dinky
sheet metal cover where i could barely get my arm in there... however,
i found a huge piece of heavy sheet metal with like 10 screws holding
it in..

LOL... I know why we won WW2... really .. it's obvious if you work on
anything from that period. It's so hard to understand why so many
people have embraced socialist ideals in the past 60 years..

I love this car.. It restores my faith in America.. maybe someday
we'll get the gov't out of our pockets and back to the way things used
to be... but i'm not going to hold my breath. And I apologise for
everything I say turning into some half-assed political statement...
LOL

Nza wrote:
>On Aug 2, 7:48 am, > wrote:
>> > > On Jul 29, 9:15 pm, >
>> > > wrote:
>[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
>> non-pressurized system. I have had no problems with my 49 Windsor or
>> my 40 Royal.
>
>As always, thanks for the information! I'm flying blind on this one,
>pretty much.. except for you guys and a 1957 version of the Motor's
>manual..
>
>So basically there are only four positions for the gear selector...
>reverse, neutral, high-range, low-range... If I understand
>correctly, most of the time i'll just slap it into high range and
>leave it there and use the high and low for around town-type stuff..
>
>The thermostat has a "180" stamped into the end of the plunger. I
>verified the temp. of the water when the thermostat opened with a
>digital thermometer.... but like i said, it still doesn't close all
>the way. So, i'll probably need a new one. Someone at some point put
>a 4 psi rad. cap on it, so i guess i'll need to change that as well.
>
>Okay, here's a question i've been wanting to ask for a while, but kept
>forgetting.. My battery charger is either 12V or 6V... so what should
>i use to charge the 8V battery? Was thinking I need to put some sort
>of resistor in-line with it to drop the voltage and set the charger on
>12V.. don't want to start a fire though, so suggestions will gladly
>be accepted.
>
>Thanks in advance!
I charge my 8v battery with the 6v charger. This works very well with my 47
Windsor. The starter cranks fast and the lights are bright.

--
Message posted via CarKB.com
http://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/chrysler/200708/1

On Aug 9, 9:09 am, "bigsep via CarKB.com" <u36485@uwe> wrote:
> Nza wrote:
> >On Aug 2, 7:48 am, > wrote:
> >> > > On Jul 29, 9:15 pm, >
> >> > > wrote:
> >[quoted text clipped - 33 lines]
> >> non-pressurized system. I have had no problems with my 49 Windsor or
> >> my 40 Royal.
>
> >As always, thanks for the information! I'm flying blind on this one,
> >pretty much.. except for you guys and a 1957 version of the Motor's
> >manual..
>
> >So basically there are only four positions for the gear selector...
> >reverse, neutral, high-range, low-range... If I understand
> >correctly, most of the time i'll just slap it into high range and
> >leave it there and use the high and low for around town-type stuff..
>
> >The thermostat has a "180" stamped into the end of the plunger. I
> >verified the temp. of the water when the thermostat opened with a
> >digital thermometer.... but like i said, it still doesn't close all
> >the way. So, i'll probably need a new one. Someone at some point put
> >a 4 psi rad. cap on it, so i guess i'll need to change that as well.
>
> >Okay, here's a question i've been wanting to ask for a while, but kept
> >forgetting.. My battery charger is either 12V or 6V... so what should
> >i use to charge the 8V battery? Was thinking I need to put some sort
> >of resistor in-line with it to drop the voltage and set the charger on
> >12V.. don't want to start a fire though, so suggestions will gladly
> >be accepted.
>
> >Thanks in advance!
>
> I charge my 8v battery with the 6v charger. This works very well with my 47
> Windsor. The starter cranks fast and the lights are bright.
>
> --
> Message posted via CarKB.comhttp://www.carkb.com/Uwe/Forums.aspx/chrysler/200708/1

I found this out as well a few days ago.. i just tried setting it on
6v, then checked with the meter and it read 8.5v .. doesn't charge it
quickly, but it does charge it.

Well, I finally had time to remove the cylinder head from the
engine.
Bad news, #5 cylinder is galled like a mo-fo... has some really deep
"marks" at the back end of the thing. Looks like it was probably
done quite some time ago. I'm pretty certain it would ruin a hone in
a heartbeat.

Can these engines be bored ? Would I be better looking for a "new"
block? I was looking at the top of the block and it looks like
there's not much room to bore the cylinders any wider.

Also, I've managed to remove the 6 intake valves so far.. Can't get
the exhausts to come out yet.. Is there an easy way to remove the
valve springs from the engine? This is the first flathead from which
I've tried to remove the valves.. I assumed it was going to be quite
a bit easier than it is. I haven't managed to get any of the
springs out yet.. I've removed collets from all the valves.
Unfortunately, I now need to remove the oil pan to retrieve half of
one.. those oil return holes are in such a convenient location!
I've managed to remove one spring retainer so far... but that's it.
I'm going to go out and see if I can do better this morning. If it's
this hard to get these crusty, weak springs out, I can't imagine how
difficult it's going to be to install the new parts!

I'm thinking more and more this is going to require a complete
overhaul, possibly including a different block... it's no problem to
me, but didn't want it to cost so much initially..

Nza wrote:

> Well, I finally had time to remove the cylinder head from the
> engine.
> Bad news, #5 cylinder is galled like a mo-fo... has some really deep
> "marks" at the back end of the thing. Looks like it was probably
> done quite some time ago. I'm pretty certain it would ruin a hone in
> a heartbeat.
>
> Can these engines be bored ?

Oh yeah, they can be bored. The castings are very thick. The critical
thing will be finding out what step oversize pistons are available.



> Would I be better looking for a "new"
> block? I was looking at the top of the block and it looks like
> there's not much room to bore the cylinders any wider.

Intersting thought- the "big" Chrysler six was made as an industrial
engine for a long, long, time (into the late 60s) so finding one is
possible. But

On Tue, 04 Sep 2007 06:53:42 -0700, Nza > wrote:

>Well, I finally had time to remove the cylinder head from the
>engine.
>Bad news, #5 cylinder is galled like a mo-fo... has some really deep
>"marks" at the back end of the thing. Looks like it was probably
>done quite some time ago. I'm pretty certain it would ruin a hone in
>a heartbeat.
>
>Can these engines be bored ? Would I be better looking for a "new"
>block? I was looking at the top of the block and it looks like
>there's not much room to bore the cylinders any wider.
>
>Also, I've managed to remove the 6 intake valves so far.. Can't get
>the exhausts to come out yet.. Is there an easy way to remove the
>valve springs from the engine? This is the first flathead from which
>I've tried to remove the valves.. I assumed it was going to be quite
>a bit easier than it is. I haven't managed to get any of the
>springs out yet.. I've removed collets from all the valves.
>Unfortunately, I now need to remove the oil pan to retrieve half of
>one.. those oil return holes are in such a convenient location!
>I've managed to remove one spring retainer so far... but that's it.
>I'm going to go out and see if I can do better this morning. If it's
>this hard to get these crusty, weak springs out, I can't imagine how
>difficult it's going to be to install the new parts!
>
>I'm thinking more and more this is going to require a complete
>overhaul, possibly including a different block... it's no problem to
>me, but didn't want it to cost so much initially..

Ah, ya got me thinking back some 30 years...
Back then I did a valve job on several sidevalve (L-head) engines.
As I remember, you would just remove the tappet covers on the side of
the block and with a special L-Head valve spring compressor (looks
like a giant tweezer), compress the valve springs until the keepers
are removed and then each assembly would easily come apart. The valve
is then extracted from the top of the engine , the springs are removed
from the side cover cavity and away you go....

I even used the suction cup type hand valve twirlers,Prussian blue and
grinding compound to resurface the valve seats.

Doug