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#11
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replacing the transfer case chain?
Ummm, I recall that the progenitor of all of this was posts suggesting that
stop gap "fixes" were "good" fixes and that I take a very dim view of the Fumoto valve (which "some" think is the cats meow....). Someone was quite surprised that I knew what the Fumoto was.... Mayhaps my bedside manner isn't to your liking.... TOO ****ING BAD... Mayhaps my free advice costs too much... talk to the usenet boss and see if he can cut my wages.... FWIW, I'm not here to impress anyone... least of all Ulysses. You want me to lead people around by the nose.... solve all their problems for them and just, in general, be a congenial old coot.... What folks need is to start thinking on their own... I can help in things mechanical, But the crux of the matter will be "think on their own".... The old "give a man a fish or teach a man to fish" th "Ulysses" /> wrote in message ... > > "John Smith" > wrote in message > ... >> Jim, I hope you're still following this thread. I took some of your > earlier >> advice and put the car on a lift with the car in gear. I had someone in > the >> car apply the brakes slightly to cause some drag on everything that's >> spinning, and now that I'm under there and close to the source, I can >> tell >> the sound is most defininatly coming from the transfer case. So now I'm >> back to my original belief that the transfer case chain is stretched, or >> something else is bad in the case. I have someone who can replace the > chain >> or rebuild the whole case. The rebuild kits I see online are the chain >> (cheap), Vicious Clutch set (expensive), and a bearing and seal kit (I > would >> buy anyway). The car has 162,000 miles and otherwise runs great. I'm >> not >> trying to keep it forever. I just want to get a few more 10,000s of >> miles >> out of it. Since I put very few miles on it per year and have always >> garaged the car, this could be years of service for me. Have you any >> experience with what wears in these cases? I have one person telling me >> it's the chain and only the chain. I have a dealer telling me it's the >> VC >> set. I know logic would suggest to replace everything as long as the >> case >> is open, but the one guy swears the chain is the only thing worn. So you >> don't have to go back and re-read the thread, it's a BW 4404 full time > AWD. >> No hi/lo or engage device. It really a pretty simple t-case. >> >> I was surprised when I came back to this thread that someone replied >> about >> you being disrespected on this message board. I went back and read our >> dialouge, and can think of no reason for that to have been replied to >> this >> thread. I want to be on record that I respect your advice, and >> appreciate >> that you give it. Autos are not my area of expertise, but I do >> contribute >> to online forums about Home Automation. Also, whenever I use a forum for >> advice, I come back and post the final resolution for the benefit of > anyone >> reading this thread in the future. >> >> Thanks again >> >> >> >> "Jim Warman" > wrote in message >> news:HirOi.11501$%B2.9532@edtnps82... >> > Might be getting somewhere.... the double cardan type U-joints use a >> > centering ball between the two cross and cap joints... these can >> > develop >> > wear that can make all manner of noise with no real obvious vibration. >> > >> > With the shaft off the car, move the joint through it's full range of >> > motion.... there should be a slight resistance build as the joint >> > approaches the straight position and the joint should have smooth > action. >> > With the shaft installed in the vehicle, grasp the shaft next to the >> > U-joint ass'y and move it up and down (can take quite a bit of force) - >> > there should be no play at all. >> > >> > If this joint has play, you will probably need to look to the > aftermarket >> > suppliers for parts since Ford doesn't appear to stock or supply any >> > centering ball kits. Plan on replacing the associated U-joints at the > same >> > time. When reassembling the joint, be very careful not to "cross up" a >> > bearing cap needle - I've repaired manyu of these style joints over the >> > years and there is still the odd one that tries to be as frustrating as > it >> > possibly can. If your local auto parts store has a C clamp type ball > joint >> > press for loan or rent, the C clamp can be used alone to aid in >> > removing/installing the U-joints. >> > >> > HTH >> > >> >> > > In this NG you have mainly folks who have repaired their Explorers with > success and share that information. Some of us are expert mechanics (not > me), and some are shadetree mechanics. Then you have someone like Warman > who seems to find it amusing to call people stupid and goofy and such and > the only crime I can see that they commited was to ask how to fix their > car. > I agree that Warman's post on the transfer case was a great post and a > real > contribution to usenet. Meanwhile, I have managed to gather enough > information from this and other sources to keep my 'ol '91 running great. > > Being the "shadetree" kind of mechanic I would tend to go for just > replacing > the chain and seals if the clutch is really expensive and you have a > reliable source telling you it's just the chain. The transfer case is not > exactly easy to remove but not extremely difficult either. Since there > have > been very few reports of transfer case problems (that I've read anyway) I > would tend to do the minimum required. If it doesn't work then you at > least > have a real good idea what the problem might be. > > Old posts have a tendancy to go unnoticed around here so you may want to > start a new one with your new question. > > It would also be great if more people posted the results of their projects > so future googlers could find the solutions to their problems. > > |
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#12
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replacing the transfer case chain?
John... in nearly 40 years of doing this, I've only replaced about 4
transfer case chains... all of these were on units that saw a LOT of 4WD heavy slogging.... Most concerns involve shift forks and/or mode synchros.... I'm probably the original "doubting Thomas"... I like to have a very good reason for anything that I do to an automobile... Looking back through posts on this NG and other venues, I see a few references to debris on the transfer case speed sensors.... I recall some reports (and, IIRC a TSB) about transfer case fluid contamination. Neither of these really seem to fit your circumstance though they are worth exploring - as in cheap to do. Unfortunately, I'm not close enough to the concern to be of much more help at this time... you sound to have a lot of money invested in this concern with no resolution and I am loathe to recommend a course of action that I wouldn't normally take on a customers car.... |
#13
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replacing the transfer case chain?
John Smith didn't come in here with a chip on his shoulder....
You have the option of ignoring me.... I suggest you exercise it... FWIW, my goal in life has nothing to do with your expectations... this is usenet - if your skin is thin, I suggest a different venue... I am not politically correct, I don't pretend to be politically correct and I never expect to be politically correct..... |
#14
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replacing the transfer case chain?
"Ulysses" /> wrote in message ... > > "John Smith" > wrote in message > ... > > Jim, I hope you're still following this thread. I took some of your > earlier > > advice and put the car on a lift with the car in gear. I had someone in > the > > car apply the brakes slightly to cause some drag on everything that's > > spinning, and now that I'm under there and close to the source, I can tell > > the sound is most defininatly coming from the transfer case. So now I'm > > back to my original belief that the transfer case chain is stretched, or > > something else is bad in the case. I have someone who can replace the > chain > > or rebuild the whole case. The rebuild kits I see online are the chain > > (cheap), Vicious Clutch set (expensive), and a bearing and seal kit (I > would > > buy anyway). The car has 162,000 miles and otherwise runs great. I'm not > > trying to keep it forever. I just want to get a few more 10,000s of miles > > out of it. Since I put very few miles on it per year and have always > > garaged the car, this could be years of service for me. Have you any > > experience with what wears in these cases? I have one person telling me > > it's the chain and only the chain. I have a dealer telling me it's the VC > > set. I know logic would suggest to replace everything as long as the case > > is open, but the one guy swears the chain is the only thing worn. So you > > don't have to go back and re-read the thread, it's a BW 4404 full time > AWD. > > No hi/lo or engage device. It really a pretty simple t-case. > > > > I was surprised when I came back to this thread that someone replied about > > you being disrespected on this message board. I went back and read our > > dialouge, and can think of no reason for that to have been replied to this > > thread. I want to be on record that I respect your advice, and appreciate > > that you give it. Autos are not my area of expertise, but I do contribute > > to online forums about Home Automation. Also, whenever I use a forum for > > advice, I come back and post the final resolution for the benefit of > anyone > > reading this thread in the future. > > > > Thanks again > > > > > > > > "Jim Warman" > wrote in message > > news:HirOi.11501$%B2.9532@edtnps82... > > > Might be getting somewhere.... the double cardan type U-joints use a > > > centering ball between the two cross and cap joints... these can develop > > > wear that can make all manner of noise with no real obvious vibration. > > > > > > With the shaft off the car, move the joint through it's full range of > > > motion.... there should be a slight resistance build as the joint > > > approaches the straight position and the joint should have smooth > action. > > > With the shaft installed in the vehicle, grasp the shaft next to the > > > U-joint ass'y and move it up and down (can take quite a bit of force) - > > > there should be no play at all. > > > > > > If this joint has play, you will probably need to look to the > aftermarket > > > suppliers for parts since Ford doesn't appear to stock or supply any > > > centering ball kits. Plan on replacing the associated U-joints at the > same > > > time. When reassembling the joint, be very careful not to "cross up" a > > > bearing cap needle - I've repaired manyu of these style joints over the > > > years and there is still the odd one that tries to be as frustrating as > it > > > possibly can. If your local auto parts store has a C clamp type ball > joint > > > press for loan or rent, the C clamp can be used alone to aid in > > > removing/installing the U-joints. > > > > > > HTH > > > > > > > > > In this NG you have mainly folks who have repaired their Explorers with > success and share that information. Some of us are expert mechanics (not > me), and some are shadetree mechanics. Then you have someone like Warman > who seems to find it amusing to call people stupid and goofy and such and > the only crime I can see that they commited was to ask how to fix their car. > I agree that Warman's post on the transfer case was a great post and a real > contribution to usenet. Meanwhile, I have managed to gather enough > information from this and other sources to keep my 'ol '91 running great. > > Being the "shadetree" kind of mechanic I would tend to go for just replacing > the chain and seals if the clutch is really expensive and you have a > reliable source telling you it's just the chain. The transfer case is not > exactly easy to remove but not extremely difficult either. Since there have > been very few reports of transfer case problems (that I've read anyway) I > would tend to do the minimum required. If it doesn't work then you at least > have a real good idea what the problem might be. I just looked up a transfer case (probably not the same as yours because it's for a '92 with 4.0L) in my Ford Service Manual CD. The instructions are very clear and nicely illustrated on exactly how to disassemble the transfer case but I could find no information on troubleshooting the TC. I could also find no specs on allowable play on the chain or wear on parts etc. Torque settings I *could* find. This looks like one of those times when you need a professional mechanic like Warman to tell you what's what. BTW I got my Ford Manual CD on eBay a while back for not very much $$$ ($10 or $12 or so). I think it's worth getting. I also have an old laptop I got on eBay for $5 that I can use it in in the garage (or even under the car). The CD I got runs on Win 95 or higher and a 486 CPU. It may even run on 3.1. I've heard some of the CDs require a Pentium and Win XP. > > Old posts have a tendancy to go unnoticed around here so you may want to > start a new one with your new question. > > It would also be great if more people posted the results of their projects > so future googlers could find the solutions to their problems. > > |
#15
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replacing the transfer case chain?
replying to Jim Warman, jlewis454tci wrote:
You seem to know a lot about these transfer cases I have a 95 5.0 all wheel drive Explorer on my transfer case the front drive shaft is the four bolt u join u-joint style the only used transfer case I could find was the 4404 6 bol 6 bolt CV style is there anyway I can make that work in my 95 perhaps by taking them apart switching internals I noticed that the 4404 does not have a flange bolt -- posted from http://www.motorsforum.com/ford-expl...ain-19460-.htm using MotorsForum's Web, Mobile and Social Media Interface to rec.autos.makers.ford.explorer and other automotive groups |
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