Convertible Storage Compartment Lid Does Not Open

Hi...
First, the specs: 1996 318iC (E36) with manual soft-top. I've owned it
since ~2005.

Recently the storage compartment lid has stopped working. When the
release lever is pulled, the lid does not lift up.
Is this a common problem? Has anyone dealt with this before?

Possibly related: The trunk latch stopped working and was recently
replaced. It was worn out to the point that the spring-loaded latching
mechanism stopped functioning. It was replaced with a new latch and
the trunk closes and locks properly. The storage compartment lid issue
predates the trunk problem though.

Also possibly related: When the ignition is turned on, the Airbag
light stays on for 60 seconds and then goes out. I would like to know
what is causing this and if it is somehow related.

Thanks!

"slmnhq" > wrote in message
...
> Hi...
> First, the specs: 1996 318iC (E36) with manual soft-top. I've owned it
> since ~2005.
>
> Recently the storage compartment lid has stopped working. When the
> release lever is pulled, the lid does not lift up.
> Is this a common problem? Has anyone dealt with this before?
>
> Possibly related: The trunk latch stopped working and was recently
> replaced. It was worn out to the point that the spring-loaded latching
> mechanism stopped functioning. It was replaced with a new latch and
> the trunk closes and locks properly. The storage compartment lid issue
> predates the trunk problem though.
>

This is absolutely related.

The trunk MUST be closed tor the storage compartment to open. I get that the
trunk is physically closed, but there are two buttons on the underside of
the lid that strike the door sill. These buttons tell the storage
compartment lid that the trunk is closed.

My guess is that they are disconnected or out of adjustment.





> Also possibly related: When the ignition is turned on, the Airbag
> light stays on for 60 seconds and then goes out. I would like to know
> what is causing this and if it is somehow related.
>

The Airbag light is supposed to light then go out. The airbag system goes
through a self test where it checks everything. If it passes the test, the
light goes out.

This is unrelated to the storage compartment lid.

Thanks for your helpful reply Jeff. I still had some follow-up
questions:

> > Possibly related: The trunk latch stopped working and was recently
> > replaced. It was worn out to the point that the spring-loaded latching
> > mechanism stopped functioning. It was replaced with a new latch and
> > the trunk closes and locks properly. The storage compartment lid issue
> > predates the trunk problem though.
>
> This is absolutely related.
>
> The trunk MUST be closed tor the storage compartment to open. I get that the
> trunk is physically closed, but there are two buttons on the underside of
> the lid that strike the door sill. These buttons tell the storage
> compartment lid that the trunk is closed.
>
> My guess is that they are disconnected or out of adjustment.
>

I think I know exactly which buttons you are referring to. I was
wondering what they were for and had guessed as much. Thanks for
providing the validation. Do you know what these buttons are called so
I can order replacements if I have to?

> > Also possibly related: When the ignition is turned on, the Airbag
> > light stays on for 60 seconds and then goes out. I would like to know
> > what is causing this and if it is somehow related.
>
> The Airbag light is supposed to light then go out. The airbag system goes
> through a self test where it checks everything. If it passes the test, the
> light goes out.
>

Previously, the airbag light would go out almost immediately, just
like the other lights on the dash. Now, it lingers on for almost a
minute before extinguishing. Does that indicate a partial self-test
failure?

Thanks,
Salman

"slmnhq" > wrote in message
...
> Thanks for your helpful reply Jeff. I still had some follow-up
> questions:
>
>> > Possibly related: The trunk latch stopped working and was recently
>> > replaced. It was worn out to the point that the spring-loaded latching
>> > mechanism stopped functioning. It was replaced with a new latch and
>> > the trunk closes and locks properly. The storage compartment lid issue
>> > predates the trunk problem though.
>>
>> This is absolutely related.
>>
>> The trunk MUST be closed tor the storage compartment to open. I get that
>> the
>> trunk is physically closed, but there are two buttons on the underside of
>> the lid that strike the door sill. These buttons tell the storage
>> compartment lid that the trunk is closed.
>>
>> My guess is that they are disconnected or out of adjustment.
>>
>
> I think I know exactly which buttons you are referring to. I was
> wondering what they were for and had guessed as much. Thanks for
> providing the validation. Do you know what these buttons are called so
> I can order replacements if I have to?
>


I don't know what they're called. I call them the soft top storage
compartment interlock buttons. The parts guy is pretty smare, he'll find
them.

If this is an adjustment problem with the buttons, you should be able to
fully depress them as a test to see if the storage compartment will open.
(Use caution in this test because the storage compartment lid and the trunk
are able to occupy the same space at the same time, the implications of this
should be obvious.)




>> > Also possibly related: When the ignition is turned on, the Airbag
>> > light stays on for 60 seconds and then goes out. I would like to know
>> > what is causing this and if it is somehow related.
>>
>> The Airbag light is supposed to light then go out. The airbag system goes
>> through a self test where it checks everything. If it passes the test,
>> the
>> light goes out.
>>
>
> Previously, the airbag light would go out almost immediately, just
> like the other lights on the dash. Now, it lingers on for almost a
> minute before extinguishing. Does that indicate a partial self-test
> failure?
>
> Thanks,
> Salman

No. If there was a failure, the light would remain on.

Airbags are a Safety of Flight Item. If there is a hint of a problem, the
light is required to remain illuminated until the problem is sorted out. The
ABS brakes are nice to have, but a failure of the ABS system does not demand
a service call it extinguish the light. You can have an ABS problem noted on
one drive cycle, and the light will come on and normally remain on until
that trip is finished. On the next trip, the ABS does its self test and the
light can go out and remain out. If the light comes on or remains on, all
this means is the ABS feature might not work -- the wheels can lock in an
emergency situation. There is a multitude of sensors in the ABS system that
can throw a random fault on any given drive cycle and at any time in that
drive cycle. The fault can theoretically fix itself, and on the next drive
cycle the self test will conclude successfully. The fault might appear
randomly everytime you drive the car, or it might never appear again. For
example, there are sensors that look at the tires rotating -- these sensors
can tell the computer that a tire is not turning when the rest of them are
doing 70, or 10. The computer knows the car is not slowing down, so the loss
of signal is detected as a fault and the ABS light comes on. The next time
you drive the car, the sensor signal can return to normal and th elight will
remain off. Indeed, you could (in theory) turn the car off and immediately
back on, and the ABS can reset itself because the offending sensor loss has
already returned to normal.

The Airbag is different. Because a life is at stake by the failure of the
system to deploy, the system will keep the airbag light on all of the time
once it has come on due to a fault. Since the airbag system does not allow
for transient failures (as the ABS system allows), then any failure is
permanant and requires a technician to diagnose and repair before the light
can be reset. As a practical matter, you and I may be able to fix the airbag
system if the problem is a dirty switch contact or connection, but since
there are lives at stake, the system demands a professional to perform
service before resetting the light. Sadly, a professional is defined as a
guy that has a reset tool.

> I don't know what they're called. I call them the soft top storage
> compartment interlock buttons. The parts guy is pretty smare, he'll find
> them.
>
> If this is an adjustment problem with the buttons, you should be able to
> fully depress them as a test to see if the storage compartment will open.
> (Use caution in this test because the storage compartment lid and the trunk
> are able to occupy the same space at the same time, the implications of this
> should be obvious.)

Thanks again Jeff! I'll try your suggestion with a friend's help.

> >> > Also possibly related: When the ignition is turned on, the Airbag
> >> > light stays on for 60 seconds and then goes out. I would like to know
> >> > what is causing this and if it is somehow related.
>
> >> The Airbag light is supposed to light then go out. The airbag system goes
> >> through a self test where it checks everything. If it passes the test,
> >> the
> >> light goes out.
>
> > Previously, the airbag light would go out almost immediately, just
> > like the other lights on the dash. Now, it lingers on for almost a
> > minute before extinguishing. Does that indicate a partial self-test
> > failure?
>
> > Thanks,
> > Salman
>
> No. If there was a failure, the light would remain on.
>
> Airbags are a Safety of Flight Item. If there is a hint of a problem, the
> light is required to remain illuminated until the problem is sorted out. The
> ABS brakes are nice to have, but a failure of the ABS system does not demand
> a service call it extinguish the light. You can have an ABS problem noted on
> one drive cycle, and the light will come on and normally remain on until
> that trip is finished. On the next trip, the ABS does its self test and the
> light can go out and remain out. If the light comes on or remains on, all
> this means is the ABS feature might not work -- the wheels can lock in an
> emergency situation. There is a multitude of sensors in the ABS system that
> can throw a random fault on any given drive cycle and at any time in that
> drive cycle. The fault can theoretically fix itself, and on the next drive
> cycle the self test will conclude successfully. The fault might appear
> randomly everytime you drive the car, or it might never appear again. For
> example, there are sensors that look at the tires rotating -- these sensors
> can tell the computer that a tire is not turning when the rest of them are
> doing 70, or 10. The computer knows the car is not slowing down, so the loss
> of signal is detected as a fault and the ABS light comes on. The next time
> you drive the car, the sensor signal can return to normal and th elight will
> remain off. Indeed, you could (in theory) turn the car off and immediately
> back on, and the ABS can reset itself because the offending sensor loss has
> already returned to normal.

Makes complete sense. I observed similar behavior due to an electrical
short in the wiring coming from the ABS controller. Turns out that the
fire wall plate had eroded the insulation. A very smart mechanic saved
me the cost of a new ABS module.

>
> The Airbag is different. Because a life is at stake by the failure of the
> system to deploy, the system will keep the airbag light on all of the time
> once it has come on due to a fault. Since the airbag system does not allow
> for transient failures (as the ABS system allows), then any failure is
> permanant and requires a technician to diagnose and repair before the light
> can be reset. As a practical matter, you and I may be able to fix the airbag
> system if the problem is a dirty switch contact or connection, but since
> there are lives at stake, the system demands a professional to perform
> service before resetting the light. Sadly, a professional is defined as a
> guy that has a reset tool.

Thanks again. I'll try to follow up with the any more information I
get regarding the storage compartment / trunk closure contacts and the
Airbag light.

Thanks,
Salman

"slmnhq" > wrote in message
...
>
>> I don't know what they're called. I call them the soft top storage
>> compartment interlock buttons. The parts guy is pretty smare, he'll find
>> them.
>>
>> If this is an adjustment problem with the buttons, you should be able to
>> fully depress them as a test to see if the storage compartment will open.
>> (Use caution in this test because the storage compartment lid and the
>> trunk
>> are able to occupy the same space at the same time, the implications of
>> this
>> should be obvious.)
>
> Thanks again Jeff! I'll try your suggestion with a friend's help.
>
>> >> > Also possibly related: When the ignition is turned on, the Airbag
>> >> > light stays on for 60 seconds and then goes out. I would like to
>> >> > know
>> >> > what is causing this and if it is somehow related.
>>
>> >> The Airbag light is supposed to light then go out. The airbag system
>> >> goes
>> >> through a self test where it checks everything. If it passes the test,
>> >> the
>> >> light goes out.
>>
>> > Previously, the airbag light would go out almost immediately, just
>> > like the other lights on the dash. Now, it lingers on for almost a
>> > minute before extinguishing. Does that indicate a partial self-test
>> > failure?
>>
>> > Thanks,
>> > Salman
>>
>> No. If there was a failure, the light would remain on.
>>
>> Airbags are a Safety of Flight Item. If there is a hint of a problem, the
>> light is required to remain illuminated until the problem is sorted out.
>> The
>> ABS brakes are nice to have, but a failure of the ABS system does not
>> demand
>> a service call it extinguish the light. You can have an ABS problem noted
>> on
>> one drive cycle, and the light will come on and normally remain on until
>> that trip is finished. On the next trip, the ABS does its self test and
>> the
>> light can go out and remain out. If the light comes on or remains on, all
>> this means is the ABS feature might not work -- the wheels can lock in an
>> emergency situation. There is a multitude of sensors in the ABS system
>> that
>> can throw a random fault on any given drive cycle and at any time in that
>> drive cycle. The fault can theoretically fix itself, and on the next
>> drive
>> cycle the self test will conclude successfully. The fault might appear
>> randomly everytime you drive the car, or it might never appear again. For
>> example, there are sensors that look at the tires rotating -- these
>> sensors
>> can tell the computer that a tire is not turning when the rest of them
>> are
>> doing 70, or 10. The computer knows the car is not slowing down, so the
>> loss
>> of signal is detected as a fault and the ABS light comes on. The next
>> time
>> you drive the car, the sensor signal can return to normal and th elight
>> will
>> remain off. Indeed, you could (in theory) turn the car off and
>> immediately
>> back on, and the ABS can reset itself because the offending sensor loss
>> has
>> already returned to normal.
>
> Makes complete sense. I observed similar behavior due to an electrical
> short in the wiring coming from the ABS controller. Turns out that the
> fire wall plate had eroded the insulation. A very smart mechanic saved
> me the cost of a new ABS module.
>
>>
>> The Airbag is different. Because a life is at stake by the failure of the
>> system to deploy, the system will keep the airbag light on all of the
>> time
>> once it has come on due to a fault. Since the airbag system does not
>> allow
>> for transient failures (as the ABS system allows), then any failure is
>> permanant and requires a technician to diagnose and repair before the
>> light
>> can be reset. As a practical matter, you and I may be able to fix the
>> airbag
>> system if the problem is a dirty switch contact or connection, but since
>> there are lives at stake, the system demands a professional to perform
>> service before resetting the light. Sadly, a professional is defined as a
>> guy that has a reset tool.
>
> Thanks again. I'll try to follow up with the any more information I
> get regarding the storage compartment / trunk closure contacts and the
> Airbag light.
>
> Thanks,
> Salman



I just tested my car. The switch that tells the storage cover that it's okay
to open is in the latch mechanism itself. I just pressed the buttons on the
bottom edge of the trunk lid, but the top still would not operate. Then, I
set the latch with a screw driver, and the top began to operate.

You stated that you've had work done on the latch recently, it appears to me
you need to do the work over again.

My Bentley manual shows the only interlock as residing inside the latch to
the trunk lid. I was thinking the buttons that strike the trunk sill were
the objects of your affection, but it turns out the latch is your problem.

I have the E36 with the semi-automatic top, I have to turn the release
handle at the top of the windshield frame, then press a button to operate
the retract-motor. The Bentley manual does not give very muich on the fully
manual top, so I'm not sure what your actual problem is, but starting with
the trunk lid seems like the right thing to do.

> I just tested my car. The switch that tells the storage cover that it's okay
> to open is in the latch mechanism itself. I just pressed the buttons on the
> bottom edge of the trunk lid, but the top still would not operate. Then, I
> set the latch with a screw driver, and the top began to operate.
>
> You stated that you've had work done on the latch recently, it appears to me
> you need to do the work over again.

I just replaced the two buttons ($10 a piece, so not that bad) but the
storage compartment still does not open. I will try to set the trunk
latch with a screw driver and try again.
Btw, the dealership did not know what the part itself is called...

Thanks,
Salman

> My Bentley manual shows the only interlock as residing inside the latch to
> the trunk lid. I was thinking the buttons that strike the trunk sill were
> the objects of your affection, but it turns out the latch is your problem.
>
> I have the E36 with the semi-automatic top, I have to turn the release
> handle at the top of the windshield frame, then press a button to operate
> the retract-motor. The Bentley manual does not give very muich on the fully
> manual top, so I'm not sure what your actual problem is, but starting with
> the trunk lid seems like the right thing to do.

Also, see this link for relevant chapter from the Bentley manual:

http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/se...e%20Adjust.pdf

On Aug 14, 2:22 pm, slmnhq > wrote:
> Also, see this link for relevant chapter from the Bentley manual:
>
> http://tech.bentleypublishers.com/se...ownload/69-103...

Some of the real gear heads might find this 500+ page electrical
troubleshooting manual for the E36 1998 useful:

http://hosting.data.bg/bmw/BMW/E-Boo.../E36_Sedan.pdf

> I have the E36 with the semi-automatic top, I have to turn the release
> handle at the top of the windshield frame, then press a button to operate
> the retract-motor. The Bentley manual does not give very muich on the fully
> manual top, so I'm not sure what your actual problem is, but starting with
> the trunk lid seems like the right thing to do.

I suspect my problem is the trunk lid microswitch. From the Bentley
manual:

(snip)
S5 - Identified as Trunk Lid Microswitch in the ETM (Not Adjustable)
• Located on Trunk Lock. Prevents convertible top operation when trunk
is open.
• S5 is also used on fully manual top. It provides a ground for the
convertible top stor-
age lid lock motor. This is a unique component only found on the
manual top system
which electrically prevents the storage lid from being opened
manually when the trunk
lid is opened.
• S5 utilization on the automatic top system provides a ground signal
to the control mod-
ule when the trunk is open. The control module cancels any top
operation when this
ground signal is present.
(/snip)

Thanks, Salman