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How to refill a leaking Sam's club "Michelin" floor jack
On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 3:23:08 PM UTC-8, Comboverfish wrote:
> Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton > quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a > cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to > offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem > of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be > noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The > seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when > this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year. > > Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about: > http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG > > Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before, > this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past > experiences. > > The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about > 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start > decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would > hardly be any stroke left. > > Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get > it to work any other way): > > 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame. > This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or > service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be > close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them. > Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety > apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very > absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released, > unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is > completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under > slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct > plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a > spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of > turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns. > > 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the > ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the > oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad > through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so > keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To > avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way, > since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that > are designed to interchange easily). > > 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole. > As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If > you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add > enough oil. Slower is better here. > > 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly > further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will > hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug > temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak. > > 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own > weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put > pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't > engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke > becomes less than 100% effective. > > 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep > it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand > and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove > the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat > steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes > all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than > I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I > would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take > 1/2 hour at worst. > > I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service > plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for > me. HTH. > > Toyota MDT in MO On Sunday, March 1, 2009 at 3:23:08 PM UTC-8, Comboverfish wrote: > Way back when, in one or more newsgroups, I suggested the blue 3.5 ton > quick rise jack as sold by Sam's Club, to those who were looking for a > cheap, functional, and strong floor jack for home use. I wanted to > offer some tips I recently discovered when confronted with the problem > of fixing or replacing mine due to low fluid level. It should be > noted that I didn't "fix" it per se, but gave it a longer life. The > seals, even if available, wouldn't be worth spending money on when > this jack only leaks fluid a couple drops per year. > > Here's a pic I found so you know which jack I'm talking about: > http://www.supermotors.net/getfile/3...e/P1010044.JPG > > Having topped off hydraulic jacks and other types of chambers before, > this one turned out to be a bit more diffcult to fill than in past > experiences. > > The symptom was that the jack would 'quick rise' OK, but after about > 8" of loaded lifting, the functional stroke of the handle would start > decreasing, and by the time it was near fully lifted, there would > hardly be any stroke left. > > Here's how to refill it (there may be easier ways but I couldn't get > it to work any other way): > > 1) Locate the magnetic parts bin and remove it from the jack frame. > This will uncover the three threaded plugs that are used to adjust or > service the jack. Look for the one "by itself"... IOW, two will be > close together, and the third one will be spaced apart from them. > Aquire at least one pint of new hydraulic jack oil. Don safety > apparel and position the jack over some rags or something very > absorbant. With the jack pad down and the handle valve released, > unscrew this plug, accurately counting the turns until it is > completely unthreaded. Do this slowly as fluid will come out under > slight pressure; it will make a mess. If you pulled out the correct > plug, it will have a small tip on the end of it that engages with a > spring inside the plug hole. Be sure to remember the number of > turns. Mine was threaded about 6.5 turns. > > 2) Kneel on the jack frame or otherwise keep it from lifting off the > ground, then grab the lift pad/saddle with one hand while holding the > oil bottle in the other hand. Keep in mind that as you lift the pad > through it's arc, there are braces going through complex motions, so > keep your fingers clear of this potentially pinchy situation. To > avoid moving parts, you can grab only the pad and lift up this way, > since it is made to stay in place (unlike with most jack saddles that > are designed to interchange easily). > > 3) Very slowly lift the pad while drizzling oil into the plug hole. > As you lift the pad/arm, the fluid level will lower in this hole. If > you hear an "air sucking" noise, you went too fast and/or didn't add > enough oil. Slower is better here. > > 4) Once you reach the top of the arm's range, you can push it slightly > further and it will go into the "service lock" position. This will > hold it up while you complete step 4. Now reinstall the plug > temporarily, atleast a few turns to make sure it doesn't leak. > > 5) "Unlock" the arm and let it fall to the bottom under it's own > weight and return spring pressure. Tighten the handle valve. Put > pressure on the pad with one hand so the quick lift feature doesn't > engage, and pump the jack up as high as it will go before the stroke > becomes less than 100% effective. > > 6) Postured as you were in step 2, grab the pad with one hand and keep > it in this position. Now open the handle valve with the other hand > and lower the handle to the floor if it isn't there already. Remove > the plug again while still holding the pad at this height. Repeat > steps 3 through 6 until you find that the jack exhibits 100% strokes > all the way up to full loaded position. This took me more steps than > I cared to count, but probably because of all the trial and error. I > would think you vould get it done in about 10 steps. It might take > 1/2 hour at worst. > > I think the internal quick rise feature is why A) there are 3 service > plugs and B) a standard reservoir fill and bleed wouldn't work for > me. HTH. > > Toyota MDT in MO |
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