1999 3.1 intake manifold replacement questions

I am in the process of replace the intake manifold gasket on my '99
buick century. The lower gasket was leaking coolant into the engine.
Coolant loss was about a pint a week.

I would be very grateful if anybody could pass along the torque spec
for the rocker arm bolts. Are the intake and exhaust bolts torgued the
same?

Also, now that I have the lower intake manifold loose and off, should I
flush the engine. The store manager recommended that I flush the engine
with a garden hose spray. Is this recommended? Is water safe to flush
the engine?

I really appreciate any responses.

Thank You,

Steve

wrote in news:1107693447.017311.237310
@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com:

> I am in the process of replace the intake manifold gasket on my '99
> buick century. The lower gasket was leaking coolant into the engine.
> Coolant loss was about a pint a week.
>
> I would be very grateful if anybody could pass along the torque spec
> for the rocker arm bolts. Are the intake and exhaust bolts torgued the
> same?
>
> Also, now that I have the lower intake manifold loose and off, should I
> flush the engine. The store manager recommended that I flush the engine
> with a garden hose spray. Is this recommended? Is water safe to flush
> the engine?
>

No it is not safe to flush an exposed engine with a water hose.
After you get it back together, change the oil, allowing plenty of drain
time to make sure you have as much water/coolant out of it as possible.
Then change the oil again very soon after you have it running. Then take
it for a long drive, a minimum of an hours worth of continuous running,
this will help 'boil off' much of what little is left. I would probably
change the oil in it again at 1000 miles after repair. JMO, YMMV



-
Anthony

You can't 'idiot proof' anything....every time you try, they just make
better idiots.

Remove sp to reply via email

> would be very grateful if anybody could pass along
>the torque spec for the rocker arm bolts. Are the
>intake and exhaust bolts torgued the same?

According to MOD, they are first torqued to 14 ft/lbs, then turned an
additional 30 degrees. Yes, all rocker bolts get the same procedure.

>Is water safe to flush the engine?

With the lifter valley exposed it would be a bad idea to spray water
into there. You would get water into the crank case and that is bad.
Change the oil like Anthony said to work the old coolant out of the
crank case.

It would be a good idea to change your coolant *more than just a drain
and fill*. One way to do this is to remove the thermostat and reattach
the thermostat housing, then fill the radiator with a garden hose,
remove the upper hose at the radiator, and run the engine. The water
won't be restricted because the Tstat is gone, so full water flow from
the engine to radiator will occur. As water is filling the radiator,
the waterpump will draw it in, through the engine, and blow out the old
coolant with it through the upper hose, which can be directed towards a
large drain bucket. Dispose of the first course of coolant properly.
When the water runs clear, you are done. Replace the thermostat with
the new gasket you got in your kit. Fill the system with 50/50 Dexcool
(orange GM type coolant) UNLESS someone has already flushed the system
previously and used standard green coolant. Then you should keep using
the green stuff.

Toyota MDT in MO

I would like to say this and take it for what it's worth, but when
going back together with the intake be VERY careful of how you install
your pushrods, their are long one and short ones, the short pushrods
are the intake valve pushrods. If installed with an exhaust pushrod on
an intake valve, the intake valve will be bent, then a valve job will
be in order.

Also if you don't have a torque angle gauge to get the 30 degrees after
the 14/lbs torque, you can torque them to around 18/lbs. It's around
the same thing.

There are 2 drain plugs that can be removed from the block to remove
the coolant also, one is around the starter and can be taken out
easily, the other is on the right side of the engine and can be located
by raising the car up and looking between the engine and transmission
(the part of the transmission that comes behind the engine, where the
right CV axle enters it.) This in my opinion is the best way to get all
the coolant out. Then if I were you I would use the green antifreeze.
Dexcool is very rough on plastic intake gaskets.

And yes, change the oil very soon after doing the intake gasket job, I
would recommend 500 miles at the most.

> I am in the process of replace the intake manifold gasket on my '99
> buick century. The lower gasket was leaking coolant into the engine.
> Coolant loss was about a pint a week.
>
> I would be very grateful if anybody could pass along the torque spec
> for the rocker arm bolts. Are the intake and exhaust bolts torgued the
> same?

I recomend that you get yourself a book with the specs -- so that YOU can
determine the proper procedue!

> Also, now that I have the lower intake manifold loose and off, should I
> flush the engine. The store manager recommended that I flush the engine
> with a garden hose spray. Is this recommended? Is water safe to flush
> the engine?

sure - not a problem!

--
BBA
°?°
BBA's RC Site - http://www.billybadassrc.com
When Privacy Matters -- http://www.epic.org