Question about timing

"elaich" > wrote in message ...
> "goodnigh" > wrote in news:y9OTg.1366$Lv3.858
> @newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net:
>
>> So may I surmise the recommended setting of 6 BTDC means nothing.
>> Or at least it means Ford knows the car will operate at that setting.
>> Thanks for your insight.
>
> As I said, many things affect your best timing setting - fuel, altitude,
> mods that have been made to the engne, etc. Power timing is always the
> best
> way to go. 6 degrees was merely a manufacturer's recommendation - a fit
> all
> solution, if you will.

The car did perform differently while visiting Yosemite earlier this year.
Altitude was 7200 feet. Normal altitude for this car is 100 feet.
Rhetorical question; would you delay or advance the timing for altitude.
Also, would you adjust the fuel/air mix more rich or lean.
These cars don't have computer chips, just a few screws. I love it!
The car did not perform poorly at altitude, just a bit less spunky.

"goodnigh" > wrote in message
nk.net...
>
> "elaich" > wrote in message ...
>> "goodnigh" > wrote in news:y9OTg.1366$Lv3.858
>> @newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net:
>>
>>> So may I surmise the recommended setting of 6 BTDC means nothing.
>>> Or at least it means Ford knows the car will operate at that setting.
>>> Thanks for your insight.
>>
>> As I said, many things affect your best timing setting - fuel, altitude,
>> mods that have been made to the engne, etc. Power timing is always the
>> best
>> way to go. 6 degrees was merely a manufacturer's recommendation - a fit
>> all
>> solution, if you will.
>
> The car did perform differently while visiting Yosemite earlier this year.
> Altitude was 7200 feet. Normal altitude for this car is 100 feet.
> Rhetorical question; would you delay or advance the timing for altitude.
> Also, would you adjust the fuel/air mix more rich or lean.
> These cars don't have computer chips, just a few screws. I love it!
> The car did not perform poorly at altitude, just a bit less spunky.

less air, less fuel

"goodnigh" > wrote in news:UwYTg.5558$o71.353
@newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net:

> Also, would you adjust the fuel/air mix more rich or lean.

The only way to adjust the fuel/air mix is by changing jets. The screws are
only for the idle mix. Just for the record, you would want it more lean as
altitude increases, since there is less air density.

I can tell you by experience that the higher the altitude, the more advance
you can run. I live at 3,500 feet, but my car will ping horribly if I drive
it down to Redding (500 feet.) There is a lot to be said for computers and
automatic timing adjustment.

goodnigh wrote:

> My 351C 4V has a suggested timing of 6B.
> This Cleveland has had the following mods.
> Carter AFB 9637 SA
> Edelbrock Performer LB 351 4V manifold
> MSD Blaster II 8202
> The points have been replaced with electronic ignition.
> Question is, does the original 6B still apply.
> We are looking for performance here needless to say.
>
> mike
>
>
Proper timing depends on a lot of facters. Getting it just
right takes a little time, but it's generally worth it.

Rememeber that timing is broken up in to three parts: initial
(or base), mechanical advance, and vacume advance.

In your stock distributer, mechanical and vacuum are not easily
adjustable, so we'll skip over them.

Base timing can be moved around a bit to make your engine work
best in your conditions. 6* is a good starting point. Get the
engine warmed up. Get a drinking glass, and fill it about half
way with water. Set the glass on the fender. With the engine
running, advance the timing until the water is the smoothest.
That will also be the point where your vacuum is highest. Adjust
the idle again, and then the timing. You'll have to go back and
forth until you get them both exactly where you want them.

Shut off the engine, and restart it. If it starts easily right
away, your base timing is perfect. If it hesitates, seems to
have a hard time starting, back off the timing about 2* and try
again.

Once it starts easily and the idle is smooth, leave it alone.
There's no more power to be found there.



-----
..boB
Arrived: 2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
1HD1GEL10VY3200010 CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.

".boB" > wrote in message
om...
> goodnigh wrote:
>
>> My 351C 4V has a suggested timing of 6B.
>> This Cleveland has had the following mods.
>> Carter AFB 9637 SA
>> Edelbrock Performer LB 351 4V manifold
>> MSD Blaster II 8202
>> The points have been replaced with electronic ignition.
>> Question is, does the original 6B still apply.
>> We are looking for performance here needless to say.
>>
>> mike
>>
>>
> Proper timing depends on a lot of facters. Getting it just right takes
> a little time, but it's generally worth it.
>
> Rememeber that timing is broken up in to three parts: initial (or base),
> mechanical advance, and vacume advance.
>
> In your stock distributer, mechanical and vacuum are not easily
> adjustable, so we'll skip over them.
>
> Base timing can be moved around a bit to make your engine work best in
> your conditions. 6* is a good starting point. Get the engine warmed up.
> Get a drinking glass, and fill it about half way with water. Set the
> glass on the fender. With the engine running, advance the timing until
> the water is the smoothest. That will also be the point where your vacuum
> is highest. Adjust the idle again, and then the timing. You'll have to go
> back and forth until you get them both exactly where you want them.
>
> Shut off the engine, and restart it. If it starts easily right away, your
> base timing is perfect. If it hesitates, seems to have a hard time
> starting, back off the timing about 2* and try again.
>
> Once it starts easily and the idle is smooth, leave it alone. There's no
> more power to be found there.

When checked with a timing light, the car runs poorly at 6-8*.
This makes no sense as it seems to run best at around 12-14*.
Unless I am missing something, I have never heard it ping.
Unless I am doing something wrong or the light is bad those are
the readings I am getting. The car has a dual diaphragm distributor
and I plug both lines. 700 RPM on hand held tach.
The car always starts instantly. It also has an after market high torque
starter but don't know what brand.
I think it has a cam because it idles roughly. At 3000 RPM it sounds fast
and it is!
This engine has been B*B'd so I don't know what they did to it.
I would ask the mechanic I bought it from but he is still suffering from
separation anxiety.

mike

goodnigh wrote:

> When checked with a timing light, the car runs poorly at 6-8*.
> This makes no sense as it seems to run best at around 12-14*.
> Unless I am missing something, I have never heard it ping.
> Unless I am doing something wrong or the light is bad those are
> the readings I am getting. The car has a dual diaphragm distributor
> and I plug both lines. 700 RPM on hand held tach.
> The car always starts instantly. It also has an after market high torque
> starter but don't know what brand.
> I think it has a cam because it idles roughly. At 3000 RPM it sounds fast
> and it is!
> This engine has been B*B'd so I don't know what they did to it.
> I would ask the mechanic I bought it from but he is still suffering from
> separation anxiety.
>
> mike
>
>
If it doesn't ping, starts easily, and idles smoothly, it's
perfect.
You might take a close look at the damper. SOmetimes the
stock damper will wear out, and the outer ring will slip a
little. If that's the case, you'll need to replace it.

--
..boB
Arrived: 2006 FXDI, Red.
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged Stolen 11/26/05 in Denver
1HD1GEL10VY3200010 CO License J5822Z
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra - 427W EFI, Damn Fast.

".boB" > wrote in message
om...
> goodnigh wrote:
>
>> When checked with a timing light, the car runs poorly at 6-8*.
>> This makes no sense as it seems to run best at around 12-14*.
>> Unless I am missing something, I have never heard it ping.
>> Unless I am doing something wrong or the light is bad those are
>> the readings I am getting. The car has a dual diaphragm distributor
>> and I plug both lines. 700 RPM on hand held tach.
>> The car always starts instantly. It also has an after market high torque
>> starter but don't know what brand.
>> I think it has a cam because it idles roughly. At 3000 RPM it sounds
>> fast and it is!
>> This engine has been B*B'd so I don't know what they did to it.
>> I would ask the mechanic I bought it from but he is still suffering from
>> separation anxiety.
>>
>> mike
>>
>>
> If it doesn't ping, starts easily, and idles smoothly, it's perfect.
> You might take a close look at the damper. SOmetimes the stock damper
> will wear out, and the outer ring will slip a little. If that's the case,
> you'll need to replace it.

It appears the customary tuning implements are useless on these cars.
You tune the car by sight, sound and feel. A flathead screwdriver
and box wrench.
Need to find a mechanic that moonlights as a piano tuner.